Appreciate the feedback. Can you share any feedback on where you got it, the part number, and anything else you want to share?
LG Mini Split for Garage - Any feedback?
- Thread starter Slowbra
- Start date
Appreciate the feedback. Can you share any feedback on where you got it, the part number, and anything else you want to share?
dcg9381
Well-known member
As I installed 2 x 24k Daikins, I'll share.
Heatandcool.com
24k Daikin 17 SEER with Heat - $1300
I really don't have an opinion on Mr. Cool vs Daikin quality. What I can tell you is that the DIY Mr.Cool 24k unit is about $1800. The Mr. Cool also includes a line set (25') which is not included with the Daikin. Mr. Cool is +1 SEER advantage.
The "DIY" versions of Mr. Cool should be warrantied. Self-install with Daikin won't be warrantied.
My "understanding" and largely the reason I bought the Daikin is that the copper coils are thicker / better. I can say that the Dakin head unit is pretty much a plastic POS - but it seems that most of them are.
Heatandcool.com
24k Daikin 17 SEER with Heat - $1300
I really don't have an opinion on Mr. Cool vs Daikin quality. What I can tell you is that the DIY Mr.Cool 24k unit is about $1800. The Mr. Cool also includes a line set (25') which is not included with the Daikin. Mr. Cool is +1 SEER advantage.
The "DIY" versions of Mr. Cool should be warrantied. Self-install with Daikin won't be warrantied.
My "understanding" and largely the reason I bought the Daikin is that the copper coils are thicker / better. I can say that the Dakin head unit is pretty much a plastic POS - but it seems that most of them are.
fitter30
Well-known member
My house has two- two ton multi split three wall units each. Gibson by nordyne made by Gree. Directed piped from condenser to wall units. Downsides of mini splits they get dirty quickly because filters they use on them only stop rock,bottles,kids,the cats and dogs. On heating in defrost the is no back up heat. Have had both systems for 4 years no problems.
I've narrowed down my search to either:
1. DIY 24K Mr.Cool
2. DIY 36K Mr.Cool
If I go the DIY route, which is quite likely at this moment, I'll only be able to install a single unit since the lineset is 25' (no other options). Some of the posts I've read suggested that a 36K is "less efficient" since it's minimum output for cooling is about 2x the minimum output of a 36K. I'm not sure what to make of that comment as it was directed more towards someone who needed less than 2,000 Sqft.
If this is for garage use, and occasional use at that, I'm wondering if the 36K would be best vs. a 24K.
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Yes the larger units are less efficient. But for occasional use that's a non issue.
For the occasional use part the larger 36K unit will work better because it won't require as much planning, or advance notice. Larger unit will pull the temp down faster. Won't do as good a job at controlling humidity if you also decide to use the unit for that though.
Notgrownup
Well-known member
I just installed a Blueridge from Alpinehomeair.com 18000 btu 18 Seer, did the install myself and had a pro connect, pull vacuum, leak checked and released the Freon. He charged me $180.00 to do that. all in I’m at $1500.00. Super quiet unit...
Not sure where in NC but you should be able to get a pro to do the last part of the work if you can do the install and electrical, leave the rest to the pros and the warranty should be honored is what I was told.
Not sure where in NC but you should be able to get a pro to do the last part of the work if you can do the install and electrical, leave the rest to the pros and the warranty should be honored is what I was told.
dcg9381
Well-known member
Also, if you're going to have a "pro" do part of it, alternate line lengths may become possible (add/remove coolant).
I have a 2400 sqft garage in the south. 16' walls. with 3" of foam insulation, 48k of cooling knocks that thing down into the 70s when it's mid 90s outside. And that's with some big uninstalled doors installed on that building.
I don't worry about over-sizing splits... I don't think you can go wrong with the 24k or 36k unit, but if you only have "one shot" and can't add another, I'd start larger.
I have a 2400 sqft garage in the south. 16' walls. with 3" of foam insulation, 48k of cooling knocks that thing down into the 70s when it's mid 90s outside. And that's with some big uninstalled doors installed on that building.
I don't worry about over-sizing splits... I don't think you can go wrong with the 24k or 36k unit, but if you only have "one shot" and can't add another, I'd start larger.
I’m looking at the 24K versus 36K MrCool DIY units as an example - Would you say that the 24K will do a better job of controlling the humidity than 36K? Humidity is one of the pains I currently experience as the garage is well insulated, but has no air circulation currently.
I only have one shot at that unit. I don’t mind spending the extra on the larger unit for the fact that I can cool down the room, but the thought of having one to control the humidity better certainly is intriguing.
dcg9381
Well-known member
Slowbra, have you tried a manual J calculation on your garage? Hard for us to guess (barring our own experiences and geographies). Here's what I can say:
The typical "don't oversize" that applies to standard heat pumps / HVAC systems is not as much of a problem with inverter mini-splits. That is, if you over-sized a standard HVAC unit, you could end up with a humidity problem as the unit short-cycles and doesn't have enough time to pull moisture from the air.
This isn't as much of a problem with a mini-split because it's capable of running at a fraction of it's capacity... (Given that having it run at the upper end of it's capacity is more efficient).
I'm not an HVAC guy. Just a guy with a garage that's installed a few of these things... I don't always get it right. The 18k I put in a 400 sqft building is probably a bit undersized - the building is insulated, but I didn't account for it being 2nd story and the plank floor leaks crazy - which is where the cool air settles, so we'll likely have to insulate the floor to deal with it.... The 2 x 24K units I have in my insulated 2400 sqft garage work great, even though they may on the margin of "enough" in really hot climates. I can tell you that these two units pour a steady stream of water out of the building when they are running.. At least in my geography, but my goal is being able to hit temperature, not control humidity...
The typical "don't oversize" that applies to standard heat pumps / HVAC systems is not as much of a problem with inverter mini-splits. That is, if you over-sized a standard HVAC unit, you could end up with a humidity problem as the unit short-cycles and doesn't have enough time to pull moisture from the air.
This isn't as much of a problem with a mini-split because it's capable of running at a fraction of it's capacity... (Given that having it run at the upper end of it's capacity is more efficient).
I'm not an HVAC guy. Just a guy with a garage that's installed a few of these things... I don't always get it right. The 18k I put in a 400 sqft building is probably a bit undersized - the building is insulated, but I didn't account for it being 2nd story and the plank floor leaks crazy - which is where the cool air settles, so we'll likely have to insulate the floor to deal with it.... The 2 x 24K units I have in my insulated 2400 sqft garage work great, even though they may on the margin of "enough" in really hot climates. I can tell you that these two units pour a steady stream of water out of the building when they are running.. At least in my geography, but my goal is being able to hit temperature, not control humidity...
One of the LG people said I needed 30K BTU heat, but only 6K BTU cooling, which frankly made no sense to me why the cooling was soo low. I’ve not performed any manual calculations, but in talking with Ingram’s they said 2 x 24K units would be ideal.
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Notgrownup
Well-known member
I was recommended minimum 12k For cooling, being in NC cooling is what we need more, I opted for 18000 because of the power of cooling, it sure doesn’t struggle. The ****** that told you to use 6k btu for cooling , you should ignore them.
That might be true for where you are but for a lot of the South you actually need more heating even though the region is thought of as cooling dominated. I'm in the northern half of MS and calculated 18K cool 24K heat. Actual is about 12K cool 18K heat.
All depends on where in NC Slowbra is. Down near the coast heat and cool probably about the same. Moving further inland is gonna swing toward more heat. Not to the point where the "******" would be right though. Them are ND numbers not NC
That might be true for where you are but for a lot of the South you actually need more heating even though the region is thought of as cooling dominated. I'm in the northern half of MS and calculated 18K cool 24K heat. Actual is about 12K cool 18K heat.
All depends on where in NC Slowbra is. Down near the coast heat and cool probably about the same. Moving further inland is gonna swing toward more heat. Not to the point where the "******" would be right though. Them are ND numbers not NC
I am right outside Raleigh. I know my garage is well insulated, but still think I need more than 2K
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akpingel
Well-known member
I'm in a similar situation although 1500 sq ft. My plan is to get the bigger size (36 for me) due to direct sun and poor insulation. I will use my portable dehumidifier if the humidity becomes a problem.
I was ready to pull the trigger today, but I’m now debating what the heck to do with 25’ of lineset when I only need maybe 10’ if I go the DIY route. I don’t like the idea of coiling 15’ of lineset behind the condenser.
I am right outside Raleigh. I know my garage is well insulated, but still think I need more than 2K
Looking at your design temperatures you'll need more heat than cooling. Possibly a good bit more with the high ceilings.
Move the condenser 15' along the wall so you use the entire lineset
That said have you tried to find a local pro who'll commission a self installed system for reasonable money? That'd be the cost effective way to get what you actually want IF you can find the right guy.
Looking at your design temperatures you'll need more heat than cooling. Possibly a good bit more with the high ceilings.
Move the condenser 15' along the wall so you use the entire lineset
That said have you tried to find a local pro who'll commission a self installed system for reasonable money? That'd be the cost effective way to get what you actually want IF you can find the right guy.
My wife suggested moving the condenser as well. I don’t know how I feel about having all the excess line outside - coiled or not. I guess I could hide it.
I’ve tried calling multiple people locally. Nobody wants to just button up the system. They want to sell the entire thing.
dcg9381
Well-known member
Check Craigslist in your area - you'll need to hit a couple of those until you find someone who is "independent" or moonlighting as independent.
You can also post a help wanted add.. Or Nextdoor.
But yea, you'll have to screen your own people.
If you're having it commissioned, you'll likely have someone that can cut and flare copper. Read your manual about line length and impact (if any) on coolant. I'm not crazy about 15' hanging outside either..
You can also post a help wanted add.. Or Nextdoor.
But yea, you'll have to screen your own people.
If you're having it commissioned, you'll likely have someone that can cut and flare copper. Read your manual about line length and impact (if any) on coolant. I'm not crazy about 15' hanging outside either..
I've been researching these for a month or more. I just ordered a Pioneer yesterday, mostly because I have read good things about getting replacement parts as a DIYer. As far as I can tell Mr Cool is the only system that comes with the lines charged so you don't need to vacuum the system. The others come with a charge in the unit but the lines need to be vacuumed before you release the charge.
I made a decision and ordered my Mr.Cool unit from Costco. I have found a way to run the lines so that I won’t have a huge coil at the condenser.
I’ll close out this post for now and create a new one when the project begins. Thanks to all for the feedback and advice. Stay tuned!
I’ll close out this post for now and create a new one when the project begins. Thanks to all for the feedback and advice. Stay tuned!
Notgrownup
Well-known member
I was in the same boat but I wanted a properly cut, leak ckecked and vacuumed lineset so that is why I didn’t go the diy way. Good luck with the Mr Cool, it was a close 2nd choice for me.
Matt, both Slowbra in Raleigh and AKpingel In Huntersville are about the same climate as I am, I am 1 hour east of Raleigh...they get a bit more winter than we do but overall about the same...With add ent insulation heat is not an issue too much here, I heated my shop in 20 minutes with a Kerosene heater in 20 minutes, that was in the coldest part of winter, I actually had to open a window...
I grew up in Canada, I know what cold is, Eastern. NC is tropical compared to New Brunswick Canada...lol.
Matt, both Slowbra in Raleigh and AKpingel In Huntersville are about the same climate as I am, I am 1 hour east of Raleigh...they get a bit more winter than we do but overall about the same...With add ent insulation heat is not an issue too much here, I heated my shop in 20 minutes with a Kerosene heater in 20 minutes, that was in the coldest part of winter, I actually had to open a window...
I grew up in Canada, I know what cold is, Eastern. NC is tropical compared to New Brunswick Canada...lol.