License Plate Restoration

[HotRodKush]

Thought I'd make a thread to document my latest project, a 1918 NY license plate restoration. I'm hoping to start on the actual restoration this coming week - I'm just waiting for some materials to come in the mail. For now I'll just show you what I'm starting with. It's pretty well rusted and pitted, but doesn't appear to have any rust-through or major damage. Size is roughly 16" x 6".

First step will be stripping the rust and fixing any pitting or damage underneath. Stay tuned!

 

[fordcragar]

How are you going to remove the rust?

I would put it in a sealed container with vinegar, pull it out about three days, spray with a hose nozzle attached to a hose with water and then wash with soap and water. Repeat this process if necessary.

 

[G1K]

How are you going to remove the rust?

I would put it in a sealed container with vinegar, pull it out about three days, spray with a hose nozzle attached to a hose with water and then wash with soap and water. Repeat this process if necessary.

Evaporust would do the trick...


R

 

[HotRodKush]

There's still some paint on the back, and possibly a couple of spots on the front, so I'll be using a combination of wire brushes, wire wheels and evaporust-type product to clean it up.

 

[arkangel06]

what about sand blasting?

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

Do you have the original color paint to paint it with once you're ready?

 

[HotRodKush]

This particular plate was maroon with white lettering. I need to do some research to find which companies, if any, make the colors I need. If not available off the shelf, I guess I'll have to do some mixing and use photos of similar era NY plates as a reference.

 

[Kevin54]

This particular plate was maroon with white lettering. I need to do some research to find which companies, if any, make the colors I need. If not available off the shelf, I guess I'll have to do some mixing and use photos of similar era NY plates as a reference.

There's still some paint on the back,

Before you strip the paint, take the plate to your local automotive jobber. They can use a computer to color match the paint and mix any color that you need. You can also get some hgh fill primer in a rattle can from the same jobber. (that is if you have one close) It will fill any pits that you have. There are various strippers out there that you can use to strip and de-rust it. Then neutralize the stripper, sand it down, use a hi-build primer, wet sand using a 600-800 grit, then paint the color of choice. Be sure to post up some progress and after pics. Doing a quick search I ran across this that may help you out http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/111.cfm

http://www.pl8s.com/linx.htm

 

[red92s]

Electrolysis would be perfect for this rust removal job

 

[OldCarGuy]

I rely on Darryl's to restore antique license plate. For a $100.00 they'll repair and paint most plates. Even with dents and holes to better than original condition. He knows all the colors for all the states and years... I'm sure they'll give you a head up if you call them.

http://www.darrylsplates.com/prices.html

BTW think twice before sandblasting that plate. It could warp in the process.

 

[Imwalkin]

I bead blasted my last plate. Worked well. I paint it with spray bomb paint. Came out really nice.

 

[PCO6]

Here's what I use for removing rust on small items. It's a large peice of "tupperware" - about 30"W x 24"D x 28"H with a lid. It sits on a angle iron stand with casters. I placed 2 cut down Rubbermade garbage pails on the inside with a wood stiffener between them. The one on the left is full of "B&G Rust Remover" and the one on the right has untreated water in it for rinsing. I use an all plastic supermarket basket for dipping the parts. I clean and degrease parts before dipping them. The amount of time they need to stay in the tank depends on the amount of rust of course. The crud falls to the bottom and needs to be cleaned out every 2 or 3 years and diposed of.

B&G Rust Remover can be diluted up to 50/50 with water but I use is at full strength. It lasts forever. It does not freeze and although I have never done it, apparently it works better if heated up a little. A small submersible heater woud do the trick. I get it at the Barrie (Ontario) Flea Market for about $40 for a gallon. I have tried to track it down on line and have had no luck. Sorry I don't have any examples of stripped parts but the results are similar to what you would get from Redi-Strip without the rust preventing residue. It does not strip paint and is safe on non-ferrous metals provided you don't leave them in too long. I also sandblast but this is much less labour intensive for smaller parts.

 

[JeremyManning]

bump, how did it turn out?

 

[vwluvrs]

Would like ot see the finished product as well, I do them as a way to finance my VW projects..
Before
https://scontent-sjc2-1.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/13360_10152936028279646_1549965811992950042_n.jpg?oh=1ab522d5ed7074e559f23f935c216588&oe=55EFF171
After
https://scontent-sjc2-1.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/11391320_10152936028294646_7259983948413386767_n.jpg?oh=e6cc8d4c0b906e9a9dc8cda4e6000fc6&oe=563097C3

 

[Nor'Easter]

Unless you plan on applying a 2k priming and working out scratches, avoid mechanical means of removing the rust...