To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Lift electrical in slab

sublimate

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2010
Messages
776
Location
Colorado
I'm building a new garage that will have both a 4-post and 2-post lift.
For the 2-post it would be cleaner to have he electrical run through the slab instead of having it coming through the air from the closest wall.
Has anyone here done this? Pros or cons of doing so?

I'm leery of it because I'm not sure I'll know exactly where I want the lift until after the garage is built, but i sure would be nicer.
The 4-post won't be bolted down so there I don't think it makes sense to run it through the slab since it may get moved occasionally.

Thanks for any thoughts,
Victor
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
S

sublimate

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2010
Messages
776
Location
Colorado
Sorry, should have added that I'm planning to do a bridge crane so anything from the ceiling would block the crane.
 

Norcal

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
13,767
A stub up 90 should be rigid steel not PVC to avoid breakage, but then there will have to be a means to bond the steel 90 to the equipment grounding conductor.
 

jaysberman

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 13, 2008
Messages
77
Location
Pottstown,Pa
I put PVC pipe in before pouring the slab. Nice clean installation, just make sure to put in sweeps instead of sharp 90 degree bends.
 

Sureshot

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 3, 2011
Messages
3,134
Location
Bridge Creek, OK
I put PVC pipe in before pouring the slab. Nice clean installation, just make sure to put in sweeps instead of sharp 90 degree bends.

I did this with the black plastic water pipe. I also put a rubber air line through a section to get my air reel between the overhead doors without having to go over top(16').
 

pattenp

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
Is the bridge crane going to be able to pass over top of the two post lift? I should ask what style of two post lift are you getting.
 

rockwithjason

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2006
Messages
2,633
Location
Las Vegas
you can run several pipes out from the wall to several locations in the shop that will be likely places for the lift. use a rigid steel 90 with a coupling and a screw in plug and place the top of the plug at slab grade. then it won't be a tripping hazard. if they get covered by concrete you can find them with a magnet on a string or have an assistant band a fish tape in the pipe and put your ear to the floor and listen.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ODIS

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2012
Messages
2,110
Location
Pacific Northwest
Would suggest you scale it out on paper or use Sketch-Up or similar 3d modeling program. Attached is a picture of how electrical was run in the wood shop and similar can be done for your garage space. Check local codes for this kind of installation in your garage space.

fm6ibo.jpg


1yrh20.jpg


On the modeling, if there is time, and you have interest, send me a jpg of your drawings and I will model it for you in Sketch Up. Will also need the dimensions of the proposed lifts.

Ody.
 

nehog

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
7,935
Location
Jaffrey, NH
There used to be cable to do this. It was 12 AWG, designed to lay on the slab, rugged in that it could be reasonably abused (driven over) but of course, going over it with steel wheels, and such did present risks of damage. Unfortunately it is not made anymore, at least that I can find. (I searched for it for a friend in Europe last year, none to be found anymore.)
 
OP
S

sublimate

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2010
Messages
776
Location
Colorado
you can run several pipes out from the wall to several locations in the shop that will be likely places for the lift. use a rigid steel 90 with a coupling and a screw in plug and place the top of the plug at slab grade. then it won't be a tripping hazard. if they get covered by concrete you can find them with a magnet on a string or have an assistant band a fish tape in the pipe and put your ear to the floor and listen.

Excellent idea.
 
OP
S

sublimate

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2010
Messages
776
Location
Colorado
On the modeling, if there is time, and you have interest, send me a jpg of your drawings and I will model it for you in Sketch Up. Will also need the dimensions of the proposed lifts.

Ody.

Thanks. I've been meaning to learn Sketch Up. I may take you up on that to help get me started.
 

Ryan87LX

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2005
Messages
76
Location
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
Used to do this all the time in building dental clinics. You really should determine the location of the lift first, it will make everything easier during construction.

Whatever you do, keep the bends as gentle as you can.
 

bjcouche

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2010
Messages
509
Location
Ohio
OK, I did exactly what you are trying to do and more. I wanted NO overhead wires, conduits, pipes etc. I wanted my lift to have a clear floor and not have a cable tray on the floor for the lift cables between the columns. To solve the cable tray issue I went with a Mohawk hydraulic synchronized system. It does not have cables from side to side, only SS hydraulic lines.
I planned the lift installation before the floor was poured. I was unable to find the pics showing the conduit run before the gravel base was put on top of it. Basically I dug a 6" deep trench in the ground and ran the PVC conduit from the breaker box to the lift area and then just used a normal sweep 90 and left it about 5' straight up in the air. I used a 1" conduit so I would have plenty of room. Then the conduit was covered with dirt, then the gravel was installed, I can't remember how many inches of gravel though. Then a 6" concrete slab. You will also notice that I put rebar in the concrete under the lift location. The lift mfg didn't require it but it was cheap and now was the time to do it. The lift location has a depression in the gravel, so that the rebar will be 6" down from the top of the concrete. I think the total slab thickness at the lift is 10". This allowed for the rebar to be there but when I drilled the holes to mount the lift the holes being 4-5"" deep would never worry about drilling and hitting rebar.
You can see that there is a piece of rebar stuck in the ground, this is to support the conduit. I also installed a 1/2" conduit from the right side to the left side for an electrical outlet on the opposite side. Also I bent and installed, alongside the 1/2" conduit, a set of SS hydraulic lines. These lines can be bought in 20' lengths so there is no splice under the concrete. Finally there is a second 1" PVC conduit on the left side installed just like the right side but I used gradual sweeps here. This conduit just goes to the back wall. I later installed an air line into the conduit and a hose reel to the column on that side.
The second pic shows the lift mostly installed. I have now finished building a guard box around the conduit where it exits the concrete. Now it won't get damaged by tripping over it, car doors etc. As suggested by others you could use a rigid steel conduit where it exits the concrete for extra protection, however since I was protecting it with a cage anyhow, it was well protected. Notice though that I did transition to EMT after exiting the slab. Another tip, leave the conduit sticking up quite far before you pour. If it's sticking up 5-6' in the air it's harder to trip over when it's in the line of site, hang a bright rag on it also helps.
If I get a chance I'll post the pics of the finished install with the guards.

Brian
 

Attachments

  • lift wiring 1.jpg
    lift wiring 1.jpg
    151.8 KB · Views: 60
  • lift wiring2.jpg
    lift wiring2.jpg
    136.2 KB · Views: 74
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom