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Lift Group Buy

Aahz

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Feb 4, 2006
Messages
417
Location
Chicago, IL
Iron-Iceberg said:
Aahz what 2 post lift would you recomend for me. I have a 00 Chevy 1 ton four door dullie That is lowered. It is long and heavy. What is the minimum size lift I could use. Would a 10,000 lift be enough? I mostly work on cars but I would like to use the lift to make oil changes easyer.

I'd stick with the 80/20 rule....If 80% of your work is automotive...buy an asymmetric lift...If 80% is trucks, buy a symmetrical. A 10,000 lbs. lift will lift 10,000 lbs, regardless of asymmetric or symmetric...but each arm is rated at 2500 lbs...so make sure that if you buy an asymmetric and use it for trucks that you balance the vehicle as much as possible. For that truck, I would typically recommend symmetrical lift, but it can be done with an asymmetric. You may need an additional set of adaptors to reach the frame, depending on running boards and such...I would probably suggest the FJ6115 adaptor package as a recommended option.
 
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BEECHFRONT

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Jan 8, 2006
Messages
25
Location
NJ
Aahz,
can you please get me a estimate on install

my email is [email protected], lift will be installed in NJ 08210 cape may court house, slab is 1 yr old pretty much level,i wont be asking them to move it, if i have to move i will buy caster kit, ceiling height is 17 feet, this will be the 4 post revolution, i do not want it bolted down
 

kincade

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2006
Messages
16
Aahz,

Can you post an email address? I'd like to talk to you about which lift would be best for me.
 

DynoDave

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Mar 25, 2005
Messages
1,685
Location
Michigan
Aahz said:
I'm sure that if you ask them to come back out, they will charge for a 2nd trip....Keep in mind that these things are HEAVY...we try to get the columns up within a few inches of where you want it on the first try. Every time a column has to come down and go back up there is the potential for injury, not to mention the additional time. Most installers will lay it out on the floor in chalk lines to show you where they recommend you place it or show you what it will look like before they raise the columns.

Thanks for the reply Aahz. Most of the 4 post lifts I have looked at come with a caster kit. I guess I envisioned them assembling it, me using it for a few weeks to find the best spot for it, them having them come back and bolt it down. That wouldn't require taking the posts back down, would it? :confused:
 

Chevy Bob

Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
13
Yes, I'd be interested in a group purchase pending the brand. I've been looking at Eagle and Rotary lifts. Please let us know what happens.




Defyant said:
Hey there,

Several members over at mercurymarauder.net are interested in a lift group buy. The idea is still being formed (what kind of lift exactly, what dealer...etc), but I thought I post up over here for some of your suggestions. I searched around this forum and found many pages on the topic of lifts, but nothing specific to a group buy.

Has this been done here already? Anyone here interested?

For more details, here is the tread at the Marauder site:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31389

Thanks.
 

Aahz

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Feb 4, 2006
Messages
417
Location
Chicago, IL
DynoDave said:
Thanks for the reply Aahz. Most of the 4 post lifts I have looked at come with a caster kit. I guess I envisioned them assembling it, me using it for a few weeks to find the best spot for it, them having them come back and bolt it down. That wouldn't require taking the posts back down, would it? :confused:

When you put the casters on a 4 post....they pretty much stay on...and the Revolution isn't required to be bolted down...Once they set it up...that will be it...roll it where you want to use it and raise the vehicle....the columns will come down to the floor and you're good to go...
 

DynoDave

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Mar 25, 2005
Messages
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Michigan
Aahz said:
When you put the casters on a 4 post....they pretty much stay on...and the Revolution isn't required to be bolted down...Once they set it up...that will be it...roll it where you want to use it and raise the vehicle....the columns will come down to the floor and you're good to go...

So the caster aren't removeable once the lift is assembed? Regardless of brand, I will have it bolted down once I determine where I want it to sit.
 

TNToy

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Oct 11, 2006
Messages
1,385
Location
West Tennessee
Iron-Iceberg said:
Aahz what 2 post lift would you recomend for me. I have a 00 Chevy 1 ton four door dullie That is lowered. It is long and heavy. What is the minimum size lift I could use. Would a 10,000 lift be enough? I mostly work on cars but I would like to use the lift to make oil changes easyer.
Make sure when it comes time for the installers to put the lift in, that their aware of this. Three of our lifts at work are too close to the bay doors to lift a standard-bed truck with a crew cab: Basically, when it's spotted correctly, the tailgate sticks out the garage door opening by about 4 inches. And you can't pul l it any further forward and get a safe spot on the arms.

Unless you plan to regularly swap engines and do heavy repair in trucks like yours, or lifting it with a bed full of industrial tooling like that guy earlier in this thread, I'd echo Aahz's recommendation on a 10K Asymmetrical for your mostly-car use.

Basically, anyone who had used different styles of lift will tell you this: Get the biggest capacity you can afford, and don't get a symmetrical unless you really, really have to for 3/4 and 1-ton truck work. They're just not as convenient, and asymmetrical lifts fit cars so much better. Especially if you want to be able to open the doors. ;)

I think any one of you guys in here will love the SPOA10 to death. We've got 18 lifts in our two buildings. And the SPOA9 is my favorite of them all. If I ever get a place where I can install a lift, one of those is my first choice. :)

Oh, and how about a quote on the SL29I? I plan on installing it myself with a shovel, 5gallon bucket, and a couple bags of quikrete... :lol_hitti

They're putting those into the bays on the new shop we're getting built. I can't wait. Rotary In-Ground 2-post lift. :D
 
Last edited:

Iron-Iceberg

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Feb 14, 2006
Messages
887
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A-town
Thanks Aahz and TNToy for the replys. Yes it will be about 80% cars but for oil changes, trans filter changes and tire rotation ect. I would like to put the truck on it.

One question for placement is where will the truck sit in relationship to the lift posts? Would it be centered or would the posts be farther foward toward the motor. I would like to know so that I will be able to lift the truck without it hanging out the door like TNToy said.
 

PAToyota

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Jan 20, 2006
Messages
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South Central Pennsylvania, USA
Are the installation instructions available anywhere online. Pretty sure I could handle it myself, but would prefer to read through things first.

Also, do I understand that you can lift a 1-ton truck on an asymmetrical lift, just that if you're doing it all the time then a symmetrical lift would be a better bet?
 

bmwpower

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NJ
Iron-Iceberg said:
Thanks Aahz and TNToy for the replys. Yes it will be about 80% cars but for oil changes, trans filter changes and tire rotation ect. I would like to put the truck on it.

One question for placement is where will the truck sit in relationship to the lift posts? Would it be centered or would the posts be farther foward toward the motor. I would like to know so that I will be able to lift the truck without it hanging out the door like TNToy said.

On my F250, the post sits almost in the middle of the door - basically centered with the truck. As I understand it (reading the installation instructions and talking to the Rotary installers and sales reps). the assymetrical lift will put the posts about 1 foot further forward - about at the mirrors.

Not all cars work better with the assymetrical lifts. Certain late model BMWs require special arms (3 stage on the front, I believe) on the assymetrical Rotary lifts to hit the proper pickup points, which costs several hundred more than the standard models. Not so on the symmetrical Rotary lifts. This and the fact that I plan on working on 3/4 ton+ trucks, are the reasons I bought a symmetrical unit.

If the installation instructions are not out there on the web, hit me up...I can scan my instructions.
 

cloper91

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Joined
Jul 19, 2006
Messages
22
Location
Scipio,IN
Frank,

If you need help with this deal let me know. I can provide any info you may need. Just call or shoot me a e-mail at work.
 

benaj

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Joined
Mar 20, 2006
Messages
11
Location
Western Chicago
Count me in as definitely interested in a lift group buy. I should be picking up a 4 post storage-service lift in the next month or two, pending no construction delays. I have been looking at several ALI certified lift options and Revolution is toward the top of that list.

Aahz, how long will this special pricing be in effect?
 

Aahz

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Feb 4, 2006
Messages
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Chicago, IL
DynoDave said:
So the caster aren't removeable once the lift is assembed? Regardless of brand, I will have it bolted down once I determine where I want it to sit.

The casters are removeable, but most folks leave them on. If the only reason for buying the casters is to figure out where you want the lift, I wouldn't waste the money. When the lift shows up, lay it out on the floor with a chalkline (or do it beforehand)...position the car in the chalk lines and figure out what will work for you. It's much easier to move the chalk lines than it is the lift....
Don't get me wrong, the casters are a nice option...but I wouldn't buy them for only that reason. Most of the folks that buy them leave them on so they can reposition the lift as required, but they don't typically have any intention of bolting it down.
 

Aahz

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Feb 4, 2006
Messages
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Location
Chicago, IL
TNToy said:
Make sure when it comes time for the installers to put the lift in, that their aware of this. Three of our lifts at work are too close to the bay doors to lift a standard-bed truck with a crew cab: Basically, when it's spotted correctly, the tailgate sticks out the garage door opening by about 4 inches. And you can't pul l it any further forward and get a safe spot on the arms.

Unless you plan to regularly swap engines and do heavy repair in trucks like yours, or lifting it with a bed full of industrial tooling like that guy earlier in this thread, I'd echo Aahz's recommendation on a 10K Asymmetrical for your mostly-car use.

Basically, anyone who had used different styles of lift will tell you this: Get the biggest capacity you can afford, and don't get a symmetrical unless you really, really have to for 3/4 and 1-ton truck work. They're just not as convenient, and asymmetrical lifts fit cars so much better. Especially if you want to be able to open the doors. ;)

I think any one of you guys in here will love the SPOA10 to death. We've got 18 lifts in our two buildings. And the SPOA9 is my favorite of them all. If I ever get a place where I can install a lift, one of those is my first choice. :)

Oh, and how about a quote on the SL29I? I plan on installing it myself with a shovel, 5gallon bucket, and a couple bags of quikrete... :lol_hitti

They're putting those into the bays on the new shop we're getting built. I can't wait. Rotary In-Ground 2-post lift. :D

Rotary SL210i (SL29 is obsolete)---is $5861.00 delivered plus tax (if applicable).

Keep in mind that the "Inbay" design doesn't come with a LCD screen anymore (Thank God...) It does have a liquid detection system in it though and personally, I think is well worth the extra money over the standard unit. (Standard SL210 price is $5,606.00 for this promo only!)
 
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Aahz

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PAToyota said:
Are the installation instructions available anywhere online. Pretty sure I could handle it myself, but would prefer to read through things first.

Also, do I understand that you can lift a 1-ton truck on an asymmetrical lift, just that if you're doing it all the time then a symmetrical lift would be a better bet?

Let me know which lift you are considering by PM and I will be happy to shoot you the install instructions for it. Honestly, it's not rocket science to install and if you have the right tools (which it sounds like you do), it shouldn't be that difficult. I would highly recommend not trying to do it by yourself, we usually send out two guys, just because those columns are HEAVY. It also goes a bit quicker with two people, if you're working on the same wavelength. Definitely worth inviting a friend over to help tackle it...

A symmetric and an asymmetric get set up slightly differently. The asymmetric is typically closer to the front wall, which means that a truck will hang off the rear of the lift more. A symmetric lift is further away from the front wall (usually 2') so you have more room up front to balance the vehicle front and back without hanging out the overhead door. Asymmetric is definitely better for most cars, symmetric better for trucks and vans...The capacity is the same either way.
 

Aahz

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Messages
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cloper91 said:
Frank,

If you need help with this deal let me know. I can provide any info you may need. Just call or shoot me a e-mail at work.

Thanks .... I'm starting to pull my hair out....LOL

Could you post the SPOA10 / SPO10 Install Instructions with a .pdf file for me?
 

Aahz

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Joined
Feb 4, 2006
Messages
417
Location
Chicago, IL
benaj said:
Count me in as definitely interested in a lift group buy. I should be picking up a 4 post storage-service lift in the next month or two, pending no construction delays. I have been looking at several ALI certified lift options and Revolution is toward the top of that list.

Aahz, how long will this special pricing be in effect?

I was only planning on keeping it open for this month....but I'll keep it open for a total of two months...until Dec 31, 2006.
 

cloper91

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Jul 19, 2006
Messages
22
Location
Scipio,IN
Aahz said:
Could you post the SPOA10 / SPO10 Install Instructions with a .pdf file for me?

I tried but it won't let me do it. Website limits pdf files to 19.5KB. The file is 2.80MB. Way to big. You want me to e-mail them to you?
 

Aahz

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Messages
417
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Chicago, IL
Nah...don't bother...I have them on my computer, just got too busy to try and post them myself...If anyone would like installation instructions, please send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will e-mail them out to you. Just let me know the Model # you are looking at....
 

DynoDave

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Aahz said:
The casters are removeable, but most folks leave them on. If the only reason for buying the casters is to figure out where you want the lift, I wouldn't waste the money. When the lift shows up, lay it out on the floor with a chalkline (or do it beforehand)...position the car in the chalk lines and figure out what will work for you. It's much easier to move the chalk lines than it is the lift....
Don't get me wrong, the casters are a nice option...but I wouldn't buy them for only that reason. Most of the folks that buy them leave them on so they can reposition the lift as required, but they don't typically have any intention of bolting it down.

Thanks for all the info Aahz. That's just a little different than how I had "assumed" I would do it. Since the lift will come before the vehicles, laying it out ahead of time will be a greater challenge. But not impossible. :thumbup:
 

TNToy

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West Tennessee
Iron-Iceberg said:
One question for placement is where will the truck sit in relationship to the lift posts? Would it be centered or would the posts be farther foward toward the motor. I would like to know so that I will be able to lift the truck without it hanging out the door like TNToy said.
A symmetric lift has a pair of arms that are the same lengths, and you typically try to get the post somewhere near the CG of the vehicle. This is usually forward of the center of the vehicle on a very nose-heavy vehicle, like a truck. And a little further back on a car like a 'vette with a nearly 50/50 weight bias. Either way, the post ends up a bit behind the side view mirrors, or roughly in the center of the door.

An asymmetric lift has arms roughl a foot longer for the rear pickup points than the front ones, and shifts the vehicle to the rear: The post is about even with the side view mirror, which makes it much easier to do things like cahnge the oil, let a vehicle down, and work on a bad window motor without having to back the vehicle up 2 feet so the doors will open.

The attached picture should help...

PATyota said:
Also, do I understand that you can lift a 1-ton truck on an asymmetrical lift, just that if you're doing it all the time then a symmetrical lift would be a better bet?
Basically, yes. I very much prefer the 9K a-symm. rotary in my bay to the 10K symmetrical Challenger next to me. Even if that bay is open, I usually pick them up with mine unless it's a diesel dually. I wouldn't want to do things that really shift the vehicle around, though... like pull the engine, ******, or front end. Oil changes and such are just fine, although on an F350 or Excursion, you've gotta fold those big mirrors in to queeze it between the posts.
 

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mshedb

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Jul 22, 2005
Messages
51
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USA
Aahz said:
SL210-RA price is $6,013.85 plus tax (if applicable)

Thanks. I would love to have one, but the budget won't permit now. I see on the Rotary website a future kit that can be used during construction to preserve the ability to install the lift down the road. How much is one of those? do you have any comments on them? Thanks!
 

Aahz

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Feb 4, 2006
Messages
417
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Chicago, IL
mshedb said:
Thanks. I would love to have one, but the budget won't permit now. I see on the Rotary website a future kit that can be used during construction to preserve the ability to install the lift down the road. How much is one of those? do you have any comments on them? Thanks!

We install quite a few "Future Kits" in places that know they will have the need, but don't want to invest the $$ right now...Price on the T110177 Future Kit is $2150.00 with freight included. It's still a pretty heavy unit, so you will need a forklift to unload it from the truck. I would also recommend using an RAI for installation on an inground lift for sure. Even those of us who have done a few hundred installs screw them up occassionally...and digging them out again is no picnic....

I would recommend installing any inground before you put the walls and ceiling up...and definitely before you pour your slab. If you have a 12' high door and some room to maneuver, it isn't too bad after the fact...but very few residential garages have 12' doors. You really need the working room to excavate 10' down...OSHA has a dim view of digging that deep by hand...:beer:
 

Blue Seducer

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Feb 7, 2006
Messages
77
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N.O La.
I've been looking at Bend Pak HD-9, All American Lift M-815, and the Rotary Revolution RFP7P001 4-post lifts. I am doing the research for myself and two friends. We will all buy the same lift and help each other with instalation. I have not priced the HD-9 or the M-815. Any input or sugestions on the three. This purchase will be done by Christmas. :beer:
 

tonyvlx

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Nov 5, 2006
Messages
139
Location
Toronto
I just assembled the HD-9ST. Im still trying to work out the kinks. Its a nice lift but somewhat more complicated than others do to the fact it uses air source to unlock the locks and it has a backup safty slack locking system. I had a few issues with this lift. When i recieved it, it looked like it fell off the truck, dents, big scratches and rust.Hydrolic cylinder was installed the wrong way, have a air leak from one of the lock cylinders.Iv been trying to work out the kinks. With no weight on the lift, it comes down way to slow. The safty slack locking system uses springs. Being new and tight, these springs are locking the lift as it comes down with no weight on it. Bend pak assured me that soon as the springs "loosen up" i will not have this problem no more. They sent me a"complimentary" 15 gallon rolling oil catch can, to compansate for the bad condition i recieved the lift.
Before this lift i had the Auto Lifters of America M6 which is similar to the All American lift u listed(same company). Great lift, never any problems. Only thing i didnt like was the paint was cheap. If All American Lifts uses better paints or powder coating id buy there lift. Or if $$$ is no problem the "Backyard Buddy" is a great lift also
 

trs900

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Feb 26, 2006
Messages
46
Location
Georgia
I have had a Bendpak HD-9 4 post for 2 years now, price was $2300 delivered from RB-Wholesale out of California.. could put one togeather now in about an 1-2 hours, need a fork lift or a bunch of strong boys to unload, I used a friends Bobcat with forks on it.. so far so good, it does come down slow with no weight on it. When wheels are put on lift can't get a car on it till they are removed as ramps are off the ground.. wish you could leave wheels on and just flip them out of the way but you can't.. I like the fact that the cables are inside the uprights rather than on the outside like some. The air lock is an extra safety.
 

Aahz

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Feb 4, 2006
Messages
417
Location
Chicago, IL
Of the three listed companies, Bend Pak and Rotary are the only two that carry the ALI / ETL Certification for the models listed. Both the Bend Pak and Rotary are decent products, although it surprises me that Bend Pak hasn't been more aggressive in addressing the shipping issues and air lock issues that others have mentioned here.

American Lift (Auto Lifters of America is the same company?) seems to come and go under different names...If you expect a company to be around for a while to supply repair parts, I doubt this company would top the list. I haven't seen any of their product close up recently, but when I saw their 2 posts about 10 years ago, it was pretty bad. Holes drilled in the steel had been torched out by hand and left rough, welds were barely tack welded, safety latches had been torched out of steel by hand rather than machined. I can't say what the product looks like today, but seeing as they haven't submitted the product for 3rd party testing, I wouldn't trust it.

Rotary is the only one of the three that offers a decent warranty, by my standards. They are 3rd party certified, build a high quality product and offer the best warranty. (Call me biased because I sell them, but believe me, I've done my homework on lifts!)
 

OldCarGuy

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Nov 29, 2005
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Ohio
Aahz said:
Of the three listed companies, Bend Pak and Rotary are the only two that carry the ALI / ETL Certification for the models listed. (Call me biased because I sell them, but believe me, I've done my homework on lifts!)


Aahz what are your thoughts about BendPak lifts actually being certified. They have changed their Wegpage recently that I feel may be questionable. And don’t outright say that all their lifts are ALI/ETL third party certified. Some lifts, like HD-9, say “Designed to meet ANSI standards” and other like their HD-12 say “ETL approved” and other lifts say nothing at all.

I understand from talking with one of BendPak’s engineers last year that their lifts with a capacity of less than10,000 pounds are actually made in China. And at that time they outwardly promoted that their lifts were manufactured in the USA.

Conversely Rotary promotes that their lifts are made in the USA not only ALI/ETL certified by third parties, they are the only North American lift manufacturer certified to ISO9001 quality standards.
 

Aahz

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Feb 4, 2006
Messages
417
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Chicago, IL
OldCarGuy said:
Aahz what are your thoughts about BendPak lifts actually being certified. They have changed their Wegpage recently that I feel may be questionable. And don’t outright say that all their lifts are ALI/ETL third party certified. Some lifts, like HD-9, say “Designed to meet ANSI standards” and other like their HD-12 say “ETL approved” and other lifts say nothing at all.

I understand from talking with one of BendPak’s engineers last year that their lifts with a capacity of less than10,000 pounds are actually made in China. And at that time they outwardly promoted that their lifts were manufactured in the USA.

Conversely Rotary promotes that their lifts are made in the USA not only ALI/ETL certified by third parties, they are the only North American lift manufacturer certified to ISO9001 quality standards.

It's been my experience that "Meets ANSI Standards" means made in China by whichever company in China is cheapest this week. ANSI relies on the ALI for the standards, and ALI requires 3rd party testing by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (ETL is one of many NRTL's, U/L is another). So if it they claim it meets ANSI Standards and is NOT listed at the ALI website, it probably doesn't meet ANSI Standards. The current version of the ANSI Standard, dated 1998 is being replaced and goes into affect in 11/2007. http://autolift.org/catalog.html#ANSI/ALI ALCTV-2006 Construction Standard
I haven't read thru it yet, so I really don't have any idea of what changes are being made. (I'm about 80% certain of my reply here..I really need to go back and read this ANSI/ ALI stuff again..) :headscrat The ALI website lists the HD 9 as being certified...so I would have to go by that....I doubt they would put ALI/ ETL labels on a product that WASN'T certified, but it's been known to happen with other manufacturers...(HUGE liability .... A lawyer's *********!)

I know that some of the stuff Bend Pak sells is made in China...and many of their parts...I don't know about all of them...(I stopped selling or installing Bend Pak's a while ago...their q/c left a lot to be desired from our experience...and after going back 2-3 times to finish installations, any profit you might have made was long gone...)

Rotary DOES make their lifts in the USA...although some parts come from overseas, depending on the type of lift. (Not necessarily just from China...they have factories in Germany, Italy, etc.) The manufacturing facility is in Madison, Indiana....very modern facility with robots and the whole bit....pretty cool....and they make A LOT of lifts everyday. If there's another lift manufacturing facility with HALF the capacity of Rotary (in the U.S.) I'd like to see it. (And you are correct....they are ISO 9001 Certified...the ONLY lift manufacturer in the US to be so).

Like I told someone earlier today in a PM....I'm not overly concerned that you buy from me...I'm concerned that you buy a safe product when you decide to buy. My personal experience is that Rotary has the best product on the market...others may feel differently. I would just urge anyone that's looking for a lift to take a look at www.autolift.org and read up on the product you are looking at. The ANSI webiste is http://www.nssn.org Read up on what ANSI is and search Automotive Lifts on the website...It will list the Applicable Standards...(You have to buy them if you want to read the standards themselves).

:thumbup:

Aahz
 
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MarksM

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Oct 2, 2006
Messages
46
Location
Denton, TX
Aahz said:
Sorry about that...www.autolift.org I edited the link above as well..

Thanks Aahz, the one bend-pak lift I have an interest in, the MX-10ACX, is listed as being certified.

My biggest questions, since I can't go look at each lift, is what do they look like up close. Are there any sites showing detailed photos of the lift mechanisms, etc?
 
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