Atlas PV10, I did not like the hyd. hose and fittiing layout, I made removeable guards.
Atlas PV10, I did not like location of power unit on side, wanted to have all available space between post and wall, relocated to end.

Do you figure the guys that design these are stupid? That they leave millions of these just dangling till some genius on the internet comes along and straightens them out?Al this reinforcement talk is making me very nervous to even think about the 2 post variety.
Do you figure the guys that design these are stupid? That they leave millions of these just dangling till some genius on the internet comes along and straightens them out?
Do you figure the guys that design these are stupid? That they leave millions of these just dangling till some genius on the internet comes along and straightens them out?
I would agree that two post lifts very safe when operated under normal conditions. That does not mean the design cannot be improved. Are you really going to argue that securing the top of the lift columns makes a lift less safe? Beam deflection at the top of the columns is nearly inevitable as a result of the two post lift design......not a deliberate design feature. Keeping those columns solid regardless of the situation is a good thing. Ed.
The mods may be fine, just becaue they are not engineered doesn't mean they are not safe but when I do this or violate a code I do so at my own risk.
The people that build them said not to but you and others advocate it anyway.
Get no argument from me there.A: Because it's easier than saying which modifications would be acceptable and not threaten the integrity of the posts/lift. That and it's a CYA thing.
Do you figure the guys that design these are stupid? That they leave millions of these just dangling till some genius on the internet comes along and straightens them out?
Ok, you would be correct, the original post didn't exactly scream vast experience, who knew.
The bracket lets the hose swing around the corner of the posts. I am not sure I really need it, its been there long enough I cant remember, must have had a problem to come up with a solution.
Its kind of vague but seem to recall the hose snagging the controls I guess, might not need it on the other side.
Made some extra long approach ramps to get my buddies lowered car on the lift
oh, forgot about that one.Made some extra long approach ramps to get my buddies lowered car on the lift
I made it work! Between adjusting the ladder locks and making concrete pads for the (2) lower posts. I got it fairly level.
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Hey Derrick,
The posts were leveled and positioned using plastic spacers.
Next, I built forms around the post plates. Then poured the hydraulic concrete into the mount holes of the plate. While tapping the form with a mallet to remove air pockets.
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Once the hydraulic concrete was set, I pulled the forms. As you can see how nice they turned out.
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Drilled the holes to install the bolts.
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Lastly, painted the spacers so they would blend in. Done...
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A little update... I've been getting a few PM's about the lift I installed. In May of this year, I purchased and installed (myself) a Direct Lift 4 post lift in the man cave. I thought I would share some pics with you guys.
As you can see, the tiled floor was NOT covered for protection. As many always ask, there was no issues with grout lines (didn't even feel them) operating a 2-ton engine hoist and 3-ton floor jack in aiding the assemble of the lift.
I'll let the pics do the talking...
Before lift:
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Setting up the lift.
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Being bolted down, as you can see the lift is sitting on top of the tiles.
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The finished pics.
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I'm still waiting for a post from the guy who used his 4 post to raise his trusses into place.
I'm hoping to do this same thing come spring time.
While it's nice that the post baseplates are all level with each other, doesn't raising the front ones prevent the front cross beam from lowering right down to the ground? i.e. the car has to climb up higher onto the ramps?
Partially together stand up one of the posts and it looks very tall!
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Of course the sales person was here prior assuring me it would fit under a 8' door. The post is 96.5" and the door opening is 96" and that does not account for the plate and end of cable that sticks up nor does it count for the caster in order for me to move the 2450lb hoist.
The company does not take returns. Its 3500.00 out the window . . .
I tried but not worth the fight trying to get them to take it back.
I need a minimum of 4"
Door height is 96" + or _ 1/4" depending on where you measure.
Height of posts are 96.5" and that does not account for the cap on top and nut and cable sticking out or the casters which I need to roll it in and out.
Deal from the get-go was I needed to be able to push it in and out of shop.
Really struggled on the 427 project header build. needed something inside of shop. Would fit in shop once there but shop too cramped to leave it there unless in use.
I just marked off the posts and whacked 5" off the top, anyone know a good way to shorten 1/2" cables? LOL
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1st up is a pic of the 4 post after some pretty major mods chopping the height down 5" so I could roll it in and out of shop. I did find out the hard way the casters do not like to move well if I have any weight on it . .
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A few of what I did to make a bit more room to move around and so I could get the cherry picker in and out to lift the dash and other heavy items. The hoist is as far as it will go using upper most safety catch and still being able to get garage door open. Of course when I thought of putting a 4 post in shop to work on the bottom sides I never thought of opening and closing of door! At least I will be in heat and cool when the time arises.
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I added full length LED lighting along the inside of the ramps on my Bendpak. Makes the underside much easier to see...
Just thinking how great it would be to be able to lift my 4 wheelers and motorcycle with my 2 post lift. Has any one modified theirs to accomadate those types of vehicles?

