haven't looked up that lift lately, but if it's symmetric (or versa), keep in mind that "front" is where you park.
I've found that with trucks particularly, but really anything, I prefer to BACK into the 2 post (mind is fairly narrow with only 2" clear to the tires on my rams combined). I can maneuver the front end a lot better to position the rear into the "right place" then swing the front in line as I slide in. Trying to tweak position going in front-first requires competely backing out instead of tuning on the fly. (dinged the wheels on a brand new cummins that way.)
As for placement -
Figure out the balance center of everything in your fleet. (that's not "center" usually). Some service manuals cover this in the "how to lift your car/truck" and show typical CG.
You can also do it with a few jack stands and a jack. (you don't need to actually -balance- the truck/car on 2 stands. put the stands where you'd expect to put your lift pads and check your front/rear balance, then split the distance and now you have your CG.)
Now grab some tape and figure out where you want the longest part (from CG to end) of your longest truck (or car if you're into some 50/60/70's iron) to stop. 5ft from the a wall is a good starting point if you have the space, but 5 foot from a CABINET if that's going to be a working end.
In my case that was my longbed quad cab ram at the time. I allowed -that- truck's rear bumper to sit 1ft from the cabinets at the end of the shop, knowing that for the times that truck was on the lift, I could move whatever might have landed there.
Since my lift is symmetric (and my next one will be versa) I can equally put that truck in nose OR tail first and have room, since my lift is at the -back- of the shop, not near a door.
I prefer to have the "open" end (the end that doesn't face a wall) be my typical working end - for most cars that's the nose - but my VWs of course that's often the back. But if I'm working on brakes, that's the front. I'll select which is "front" based on difficulty of getting it into the lift and what i'll be working on.
Swapping out a rear sway bar? rear out. Engine work? rear in.
(note you can do a lot of this in whatever drafting program you may be using, if you don't have a slab and walls yet, but actually driving it is harder..)
So - tape yourself a nice line that's your furthest point. Now, go tape out the center mark for that car/truck. And now go tape out the nose of that car.
Now reverse your marks - add a nose and tail mark as if you're in the lift the lift turned the other direction.
Mark out where your drivers door is.
Mark out where your posts are going to go - your CG line of that car is where your posts will line up with.
Stick some cones and sticks (or toolboxes, or whatever. but you're going to hit them if you've never parked in a lift before.. so cones. and sticks to give you some height reference) where your posts go.
Now practice parking. Then practice working - car on the ground so you see the worst case space taken up. Add some gear to the area (or mock it up with tape or boxes or whatever) like you'd normally have.
I also tape and mark on the floor where my tires go to line up - different marks for my different cars. Helps a lot. tape on the drivers side so I can spot myself in the mirror.
....and I just realized you're talking about a FOUR post lift.
A lot of this still applies - mark out your lift itself, including it's minimum clearances, and park your truck in there and visualize. you might realize you want more or less space around it.
Four post lifts have a lot less variability since the lift length never changes.
BUT - your tail or nose might hang off (either by choice for access, or because the car is longer than the wheelbase and why have a longer platform than wheelbase, right?), so factor that in.
