To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Lift Planning Questions

brokencamel

Member
Joined
May 28, 2024
Messages
7
Hi all, I know this is a topic that has been debated to death but there is always varying opinions and it seems each situation is a bit different.

So I've built a new house and we did a bit of an oversized garage with the plan to put in a lift in. Starting to work on deciding what lift to buy and I'm torn.
I've attached what the floorplan looks like. We have 10ft ceilings. The overhead door is high lift and jackshaft opener. Concrete is around 5" and 4000+ PSI.

So the double door section is where we have an old car sitting plus a daily driver. The 3rd bay is where we were planning to put in a lift. During the summer, it likely will not have a vehicle parked inside most of the time, but in winter that spot will be used for parking. The rear section of the garage is for woodworking so no lift going to there.

We've talked about doing a 2 post lift and setting it a bit further up in the 3rd bay so that if you park as far to the front of the garage as possible, the posts would forward enough that you can open the doors all the way, and then if you want to go on the lift, you just go forward a bit.

On one hand I dont mind this idea, although I'm struggling a bit with finding a decent lift here in Canada without paying a bunch. Most of the cheaper ones seem to have 2 safety locks instead of one which doesn't seem as nice, or the arms are symmetric, which also seems not great. I would also have to do a lift with a baseplate which isn't a big deal, but still not super great. I think what has me most concerned is finding a good and safe lift without paying a fortune and then also whether the posts are really going to be in the way or not. This portable one from Lift King seemed decent though a bit pricey - https://liftking.ca/automotive-lifts/2-post-lifts/portable-2-post-lift/
I also couldn't seem to find any reviews on and the manual seemed to suggest needing 12 inches of concrete which sounds insane.
Being able to move a post out of the way if I needed to sounds good to me.


I've also been thinking on an off about scissor lifts. Something like this https://www.amazon.ca/KATOOL-Scisso...hoppingads-lpcontext&psc=1&smid=AVNNJ72F9HJ7T
These seem much "safer" when it comes to concrete requirements. Also the receiving and install of it would be far easier than a 2 post. It is also "moveable" ( i wouldn't consider it portable), which is a plus. But my concerns about a lift like this would be whether its annoying to park on during the winter, whether all the snow melt will be a problem (heated garage kept at 16C all winter, if that matters), and then of course the lack of lift height and potential limited access. I mean, any lift is probably better than no lift. I could probably also have this one placed just ahead of where a car would normally park and then can roll it forward/backward as needed. I've also though about maybe a full rise lift but those are a lot more expensive. Although If i did a scissor lift, I would probably use it as is for a few years, and then at some point cut the floor and flush mount it.


One other thing that I should mention is the kind of work that will be done. I would say 70% will be routine car maintenance like oil/tire changes, brakes, suspension etc, maybe some detailing. But I do have an old car I'm restoring so at some point being able to drop a transmission and work on the exhaust will be important, though we've done both up until now on jack stands. I also dont mind if i have to sit on a stool under the car. I dont need to stand under it.


Looking for some opinions/suggestions that could help me make a decision.

Thank you!
 

Attachments

  • garage floorplan.png
    garage floorplan.png
    44.2 KB · Views: 37
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ericm

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2016
Messages
1,963
Location
Southern Oregon
The 12" concrete may be for when your slab does not meet the spec and you have to cut out a section and replace it. That usually calls for thicker concrete for the replacement section. Normally 10k overhead two posts want 4.25 to 6" (depending on the lift manufacturer) of concrete for the entire slab.

You might want to try modelling in Sketchup or a similar program that has existing scale vehicles that you can place on the lift or in the garage to see how they fit.
 

AC-WC

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2023
Messages
770
Location
NE, Indiana
Since you have a new concrete floor you will not need to do the 12" thick section. You do need to confirm location of wire mesh or rebar was done mainly for drilling holes. 12" is for concrete that is too thin, not enough psi or a retro-fit. Mine was a retro-fit.
Follow the Bendpak recommendations and you will be fine. Per your notes at 5" thick and 4000 psi you are fine.


I have a lift similar to what you're looking at but it's in the states vs Can.


It's 'portable' as well. With all of the pad risers it can lift 6' but not without them and I would also need a 14' ceiling vs the 12' cathedral. Only the Beetle and Firebird can reach full height. For me it's been great the last 3 yrs with 0 issues. Mine is placed square to the door to make centering the car between the posts easier. If the garage were deeper I would have put it further from the door to walk around cars easier.

I frequently sit on a bucket underneath the car vs standing. If you're looking at 'restoration' I would stick with a 2 post vs scissor. I had 1 item (replacing a chrome finish strip on a lower rocker panel) that would have been impossible with a scissor. So far that's the only item. I looked at a scissor lift but it wouldn't meet my needs. To pull transmissions it would be more difficult with scissors vs 2 post. Mainly due to height, you would have to get a tire jack style trans jack. I installed my lift by myself and I've never owned or done one before so don't let that be a deciding factor. Watch LOTS of youtubes for install guidance. Redline has several and there are other good ones.

Yes, you should be very concerned with snow/ice melt inside for both the lift and the concrete. You don't want the lift bolts, base or leveling shims getting rusty/corroded nor the concrete spalling making it weaker. I've seen several ways to get around this whether large floor mats or tarps.
 

Attachments

  • 20220413_205947.jpg
    20220413_205947.jpg
    653.6 KB · Views: 25
  • 20220413_205956.jpg
    20220413_205956.jpg
    704.6 KB · Views: 20
  • 20220525_174403.jpg
    20220525_174403.jpg
    671.6 KB · Views: 23
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
B

brokencamel

Member
Joined
May 28, 2024
Messages
7
The triumph overall does look the best to me. That one i linked above from LiftKing looks very similar, but lack of reviews scares me a bit.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom