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lift positioning

supratreo

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Sep 4, 2020
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354
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elk grove, CA
I'm sure this question has been asked here before but I wasn't able to find any solid answers, or i'm not searching the correct terms.
We're finally getting going on the shop build and they are in the process of setting forms. I would like to dig out a deeper pad for where I would be installing my lift, but I'm having a hard time figuring out where exactly I would put the it. I believe it would be best, centered in the door opening but don't mind it being closer to the wall, I don't want to waste space. I will most likely have a Matco tool box on that wall to the right also. The lift i'm considering is the Rotary SPOA10-AV and it wll be going the the bay marked in blue.
Also, since I'm posting drawing already, I placed a pink mark where I would like to place the subpanel but obviously there is a flood opening right there. Any ideas? that spot would be ideal for the panel as its unused and the conduit already runs in that direction.
thank you for the help

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CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
As best as I can tell that blue bay is only 16ft long. I am not sure what the dashed line rectangle denotes but it may mean you won't be lifting any large vehicles. If the dashed line doesn't mean anything, I'd look for a min 20ft long bay. The lift is asymetrical so it would go maybe 11-12ft in from the bay door. I'd actually figure on a 22ft bay so place the lift about 13ft in from the door. Your lift is 11.5ft wide over all and your door opening is 14ft. Due to the tiny 1'6" wall to the right of the opening (an outside dimension so only a little over 1ft width inside) I'd center the lift on the door opening. This will put the outside edge of the right lift post about 2.25ft from the right wall. I might fudge it a foot off center to the left.
 

firebirdparts

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Kingsport, TN
On the face of it, that's a strange building layout for a 34 foot long building. If you park 3 wide then it's not strange. The door size just makes it seem strange.

So here's what I see: Centering the lift in the center of a 14' wide door does indeed seem stupid. It does. but then, if you position the lift in a better way to free up the middle of the building, then having the 14 foot wide door seems stupid. I believe that is the basic conflict here. You may see it a different way. Either way, something is going to look funny.

Now: What would I do? I'd save space. 100 times out of a 100, I put that lift close to the wall to create a center lane through the building that doesn't have a post right in the middle of that center lane.
 

CamMark

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Oct 1, 2020
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Palmetto State
While the way you use it and your personal preferences are going to factor into the ideal placement of the lift, most manufacturers do publish clearance diagrams or specs which will narrow down the possibilities some. see sheets 2 and 3 here for the model you are planning on.

I added in my toolbox depth to the front clearance value since I knew I would want it there. It has worked out really well.

Once you have all that factored into your layout have the area of added depth area or footing marked out a little larger than necessary to allow some last minute flexibility of the placement when install day comes. I would also recommend lots of photos and measurements of the actual forms before the pour.
 
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AC-WC

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NE, Indiana
Normally I would recommend centering on the door but I see your point on moving closer to the wall. Because you have such a wide door it would 'look' odd but functionally probably better.
Regarding your floor-follow Rotary's recommendation for floor thickness. I'm pretty sure they'll recommend 6-8". I would put that just on the area your planning to put the lift. Unless you plan on really heavy equipment/semi's you should be OK with 4-6" on the rest.
Definitely place vapor barrier underneath the entire floor. IF your budget allows foam underneath the slab would be the cat's meow.
 

ericm

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Apr 17, 2016
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Lift manufacturers often have two slab thickness specs- one for a regular slab and a thicker one for when the slab is too thin and you need to cut part out and pour footings. Also they spec how far the lift can be from cracks or control joints (which will be a crack soon if its not already) and holes.

How far in are you placing the lift?
 
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supratreo

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Sep 4, 2020
Messages
354
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elk grove, CA
I'm a novice at best, but it seems like you could pour the entire pad under that bay thicker without too much additional cost. That would allow you to play with the positioning of the lift before you anchor it.

I'm curious why it says "No motor vehicle parking in the structure?"
i could do the entire pad but that would be a waste. I'll ask my architect about the motor vehicle thing.
As best as I can tell that blue bay is only 16ft long. I am not sure what the dashed line rectangle denotes but it may mean you won't be lifting any large vehicles. If the dashed line doesn't mean anything, I'd look for a min 20ft long bay. The lift is asymetrical so it would go maybe 11-12ft in from the bay door. I'd actually figure on a 22ft bay so place the lift about 13ft in from the door. Your lift is 11.5ft wide over all and your door opening is 14ft. Due to the tiny 1'6" wall to the right of the opening (an outside dimension so only a little over 1ft width inside) I'd center the lift on the door opening. This will put the outside edge of the right lift post about 2.25ft from the right wall. I might fudge it a foot off center to the left.
the dashed line doesn't mean anything. i could put the lift at the very top if i wanted to. maybe that shows the space for a garage door? I will be using a roll up door anyway. good point on the 1'6" wall. 2.25' is now too little space and would need to move it left like you said. the opposite of the issue i thought i had lol.

On the face of it, that's a strange building layout for a 34 foot long building. If you park 3 wide then it's not strange. The door size just makes it seem strange.

So here's what I see: Centering the lift in the center of a 14' wide door does indeed seem stupid. It does. but then, if you position the lift in a better way to free up the middle of the building, then having the 14 foot wide door seems stupid. I believe that is the basic conflict here. You may see it a different way. Either way, something is going to look funny.

Now: What would I do? I'd save space. 100 times out of a 100, I put that lift close to the wall to create a center lane through the building that doesn't have a post right in the middle of that center lane.
this building won't be used for parking really, i have plenty of garage space, its more of a workshop. i chose large door because i like to work in natural light. the back door actually doesn't open up to anything, just my fenceline. the sun sets SW putting it to the left of that back door so perfect for getting the light to the lift area.
I was actually thinking that moving it closer to the right would be the best option to save space but Craig mentioned above that there is the 1'6" wall, i didn't think about that before. there really isn't much space on that wall to begin with so i may have to move the lift to the left so that i COULD have some space. here i was thinking i would have too much space.

Normally I would recommend centering on the door but I see your point on moving closer to the wall. Because you have such a wide door it would 'look' odd but functionally probably better.
Regarding your floor-follow Rotary's recommendation for floor thickness. I'm pretty sure they'll recommend 6-8". I would put that just on the area your planning to put the lift. Unless you plan on really heavy equipment/semi's you should be OK with 4-6" on the rest.
Definitely place vapor barrier underneath the entire floor. IF your budget allows foam underneath the slab would be the cat's meow.
Craig mentioned the short distance to the right wall, which i didn't see before. in order to have space for a tool box and other cabinets i would actually have to move the lift to the left. Rotary calls for 4.25" for this one i believe but i can easily do 6".
 
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supratreo

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Joined
Sep 4, 2020
Messages
354
Location
elk grove, CA
While the way you use it and your personal preferences are going to factor into the ideal placement of the lift, most manufacturers do publish clearance diagrams or specs which will narrow down the possibilities some. see sheets 2 and 3 here for the model you are planning on.

I added in my toolbox depth to the front clearance value since I knew I would want it there. It has worked out really well.

Once you have all that factored into your layout have the area of added depth area or footing marked out a little larger than necessary to allow some last minute flexibility of the placement when install day comes. I would also recommend lots of photos and measurements of the actual forms before the pour.
Thank you for the info. the link you provided gives me an error but i'll try to find that information on their site.
 

ericm

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Apr 17, 2016
Messages
1,963
Location
Southern Oregon
Thats the question i'm here to have answered lol.

I thought you were asking only about side to side position. I'm asking because I'm about six months behind you.

It looks like the install doc is here: https://rotarylift.com/wp-content/u.../two-post/SPOA-Series/IN20384be | Install.pdf

The minimum distance they spec looks like it depends on if you install it in symmetric or asymmetric mode. I wonder what vehicles they expect users to lift? If you're never going to lift a full size double cab pickup or similar long front heavy vehicle you don't need to leave so much space to the door.
 

Al G

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Jan 5, 2015
Messages
340
Location
Arizona
I think I'd put the lift in the top left corner. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for space around it. That position will have have the least impact on open floor space but still has good access from the left door.
 

firebirdparts

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Messages
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Kingsport, TN
I think I'd put the lift in the top left corner. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for space around it. That position will have have the least impact on open floor space but still has good access from the left door.
Agreed. If you put the lift centered in the rear door (top of the drawing) that also solves the "problem".
 
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