Lift Wiring Help please

[cartunes]

Just had my BendPak XPR-10ACX installed yesterday. Jeff & the folks at BendPak were great during my research phase and hooked me up with a local installer. Looks great.
Now the issue I made for myself - I wired the new garage last year and put a dual gang plastic box in the wall near where the lift post would be (circled at top left in the first picture) , about 9 feet above the floor. Ran 10-2 wire to it from a 30a breaker.
First problem is that the lift motor is on the opposite post, so run will be longer but not a big deal.
Next problem is that I thought I could just put a plastic face plate with ****** on the box and run PVC conduit from it up the wall, across the ceiling, and down to the other post. At Home Depot today I found out that there is no way to attach conduit, or even BX wire, to the box I used.

So my question - how can I use this box to get power to the lift? Could I put a 30a welder outlet in the box, then use a 30a plug with SJOO wire? Would the run of 29 feet be too long for that?
Any other thoughts?

My other need is to put a cut off switch just above the motor, possibly a small box with a 25a breaker.

Thanks, Ron

 

[Charles (in GA)]

For the cutoff switch (this sounds like 240v, but you don't say) you can use a double pole, single throw snap switch (looks like a light switch). The make 30 amp rated ones, that are also motor rated. Use something larger than a handy box, since you need to run #10's in and out.

Looks like you used a plastic box designed for mounting switches or receptacles. Find a metal cover large enough, with a knockout in the center of it, and drill up holes in it to match the screw holes in the plastic box. If a 4x4 cover won't work, get a 4-11/16" square cover, HD has them I know. Then run an LB in either plastic or metal up and over to the opposite post.

Charles

 

[cartunes]

Yes its 240v, 30a, single phase.
What is LB?
Thanks!

 

[Cuda]

I would think you could get an extension box (steel) that would attach to your existing box. Then come out of that with 1/2 or 3/4 inch conduit over to the other side.
My own preference is to keep and cords as short as possible, so for me I would not even consider a run of S.O. cord that long, although I'm sure it would work.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Steel extension boxes attach to the four corners (actually just two) of a 4 inch square box. I don't even think they make a plastic box that mimics a 4" square box (well they do, see below, but for use with ENT PVC conduit), and I suspect a switch box was used (holes not at the corners).

If the server where I "stole" the pics (links to) shuts down due to excessive bandwidth, I'll have to hunt for new pics.

An LB is a elbow with a cover, the exit being out the back, hence the L (shape) and B (back exit). Below is an LB.

I'm willing to bet you used a two gang switch box like that shown below.

Or a single switch box................

When you should have used something like this..............

Charles

 

[mrb]

if you want an extension to attach to a switch box that you can run conduit into, there is an outdoor one that has the right holes.

you cant run pipe into a removable cover on a junction box. You have to be able to remove the cover without taking the pipe apart. A couple feet of Flex with a 90deg fitting into the flat lid, then transition to emt would be another way to do it.

 

[saabman]

I hooked mine up using a twist lock pigtail on the motor/pump and a 10S0 twist lock extention drop from a ceiling box. My disconnect is to simply unplug the motor. The extention hangs down the side of the column (I located the ceiling box to facilitate this) which provides physical protection.

 

[cartunes]

Finally got it done - I attached a metal mud extension to the plastic box, then a metal extension box to that. Then ran MC over to the lift. At the lift I attached a small box with a 25a breaker, and ran MC from there to the motor.
Worked out good.

I'll create a new post about the lift itself.

Thanks all.

 

[Cuda]

Good fix.