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Lift wouldn't stop going up

DAVE VAN

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
80
Location
Gastonia, NC
Today my 2 post up button stuck and wouldn't release. Thank goodness I had added a kill switch beside the up button (after reading about them here) I was too far from the breaker box to turn it off. The kill switch saved the day. The contacts on the up button must have welded closed. I will get a new HD industrial button to replace it.
 
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Walkers

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2021
Messages
3,912
Location
Cave Creek Az
After I put in my first used lift I had that happen. My second lift has a contactor instead of over amping the switch a lot. When training my son I had him practice what to do if it stuck on several times until he was comfortable.
 

Walkers

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2021
Messages
3,912
Location
Cave Creek Az
I use lifts everyday, all day. We’ve never had a rotary lift fail like this crappy Chinese stuff you guys worry about
The one of mine that failed is a Rotary. It is the exact same switch that is in about every lift. This is why newer models use the same switch but added a contactor.
 

wssix99

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
5,155
Location
Chicago, IL
The contacts on the up button must have welded closed.

This shouldn't happen. Ever...

If you have a 240V lift, the switch you have is probably two 120V micro switches in a common package linked together. The physical linkage is what I would look at for the first point of failure. The fix to what you have may be simple.

Here's a look at my switch, which I burned out (like a bonehead) but was able to repair. The pictures illustrate well how the switches work and what the linkage/plunger looks like. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/rebuild-of-a-120-lift-power-unit-switch-for-10.491662/
 
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428PI

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2018
Messages
1,976
Location
Peabody, KS
We’ve never had a rotary lift fail like this crappy Chinese stuff
I used a lift (probably good brand name-cant remember but it was 27 years ago) that the switch used to do that. I had to tap the switch and all was good.
 

mvdavid

Active member
Joined
Sep 27, 2014
Messages
26
This has happened to me a couple of times with different lifts during my 50 year career in auto/truck repair. both times the cause was jogging the lift to inch it up, i believe there was not enough time for contacts to cool. it is good practice to have an emergency disconnect at lift control station. some shops just wire in an amperage suitable inline plug and socket .
 

finn

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Messages
16,185
Location
The UP, God's country
I ran power to a disconnect on the wall about two and a half feet from the reservoir/power pack. I can reach it without moving my feet when operating the lift. Pretty sure the lift installation instructions call for a disconnect within reach, and it was no problem installing it, since I had to run a circuit anyway.

I also put in a 240 v outlet for power for the mig and plasma cutter in the same location . Handy to no have big extension cords / trip hazards across the shop floor.
 

Blk88GT

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2009
Messages
1,062
Location
Manitoba
I mounted my thermal overload (and disconnect) right above the hoist motor. Perfect place for it.
 

stillnostrebor

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2019
Messages
618
Location
SW Missouri
I run both a disconnect mounted on the post next to the controls and the stop bar at the top cross support of the lift. Was easy enough to install/wire both, and greatly lowers the odds of mangling something I am not looking to mangle.
 
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