I have a 24x24 stick built garage on a 4" mono slab with no footer. It currently has 8ft walls. Id like to go up to 12' walls. Can you guys share some links of guys who have done this? I want to jack it up and add 4ft pony walls under it, and scab 12 footers onto the 8 footers. Shop is currently unfinished and uninsulated at the time. Thanks in advance!
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Lifting a stick built garage?
- Thread starter godzilla
- Start date
How about jacking it up and laying concrete block? Set new anchors in the top course of block (or drill and epoxy) and drop the 8ft walls down. Secure with nuts and done. This method seems solid to me.
I know some have done it, but adding a 4ft section of wood seems like adding a giant hinge in your wall and kind of sketchy. Even with adding some full length 12 ft studs afterwards, it still.doesn't seem right to me, but I am no engineer, haha.
I know some have done it, but adding a 4ft section of wood seems like adding a giant hinge in your wall and kind of sketchy. Even with adding some full length 12 ft studs afterwards, it still.doesn't seem right to me, but I am no engineer, haha.
Im trying to avoid using block because of the cost. My overhead door is on the gable end. I need to leave the back wall stick built, due to adding on a 40x40 or 40x60 addition in the near future. When I add on, I want to blow out the rear wall and have a clear span opening to the new addition.
James-W
Well-known member
I am sure you can rent jacks to lift the building, but I think it will take quite a bit of work to do it and I suspect you will need to do it all in one day. What I mean is, I don't think it would be a good idea to leave the building up in the air for an extended period of time. What if a wind comes up and blows the garage off the jacks? What if some kids come around and something happens? I am not saying you can't leave the garage up in the air for awhile, but I think prudence would dictate that you finish the "addition" as quickly as is possible.
I would almost think you would be better off taking off the roof and sitting new 12 foot 2X4's on the sill plate and nailing them to the existing 2X4 studs. That way you have continuous wall support all the way from the floor to the roof.
I would almost think you would be better off taking off the roof and sitting new 12 foot 2X4's on the sill plate and nailing them to the existing 2X4 studs. That way you have continuous wall support all the way from the floor to the roof.
Yeah im trying to avoid the lifting via the roof. The roof is in good shape. We bought this place 3 yrs ago. I had to totally reframe the garage. Every stud was cut and sistered. I wish I had the hindsight then of moving up in wall height. I think id be create a hinge if I added 6 course of block on only 3 walls.
My plan is nail a 2x6 about 12" up from the bottom plate. Then either use 6x6s slid thru the wall as as a jack point or use 12" lvls 26ft long thru the sidewalls under the 2x6s. Probably whats gonna happen is 12ft stick walls with one or two course of block to avoid wicking from the slab.
southalabama
Well-known member
Good luck
What part of the country are you in?
What part of the country are you in?
James-W
Well-known member
Around here you would need a building permit to do what you are planning on doing. I am assuming it is similar where you are. If that is indeed the case, then you will need to have plans drawn up as to what you are planning on doing and how it is being accomplished. In your case, because you are making structural changes to the building, you may need to have the plans signed off on by an engineer before the local building people will approve the building permit. At least that is what would happen around here. It may be different where you are, but I would think the rules would be similar in most places. In any case I would check with the local building office to find out exactly what you need to do before starting anything.
Falcon67
Well-known member
Here's a smaller 16' x 22' sample I did, might help you visualize some things.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41042&highlight=1997
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41042&highlight=1997
I really wish I had thought to lift mine before the new siding and doors. I got county approval to tear it down or build a new tall one next to it but never even thought about raising it. I have a car that is too tall to go in it. I would also love to have a lift.
sleek98
Well-known member
There is a thread here where someone did that exact same thing up in Canada. I cant remember what his username was. He added a couple foot pony wall under the existing garage after he lifted it. Turned out pretty nice.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=283853&highlight=lifting
Found it.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=283853&highlight=lifting
Found it.
n20junkie
Well-known member
The only proper way to do it is to lift the building, and knock the bottom plate off. Sister full height studs with a new bottom plate on the long studs and set the building bsck down.
Just putting a 4 ft wall is asking for a major issue. It goes against all we know about building engineering.
Just putting a 4 ft wall is asking for a major issue. It goes against all we know about building engineering.
cvairwerks
Well-known member
It may be faster and less expensive to yank the roof off and remove the trusses and just reframe to the desired height. A couple of decent framing guys would be back drying it in over a weekend. No matter how you jack it, unless you bring in a house moving crew, you will spend at least a weekend just getting it up in the air and safely stabilized. Add in all the necessary materials for the jacking and you could have paid a framing crew. Personal time is money in some situations, and depending on where you are located, you could have weather problems that create havoc with the job.
If it's open framing inside then I'd go the lift route, no question. It's not all that bad of a job if you have help, equipment and take your time.
We've lifted a few old seasonal places when they were being converted to year-round homes. In a garage, that would be far easier since it's everything is open and really it's mostly a perimeter job.
We've lifted a few old seasonal places when they were being converted to year-round homes. In a garage, that would be far easier since it's everything is open and really it's mostly a perimeter job.
Im in central pa. Yeah the garage has sheeting on it but the inside is open. Yeah the pony wall idea was only going to temporary till I got 12 footers scabbed in. I was thinking about just jacking it up and removing the bottom plate to avoid added cost, but didn't know how safe that would be. We live back a mile long driveway and have cool neighbors, so im not worried about permits.
ishiboo
Well-known member
Forget the pony walls. Lift it and scab in the studs ASAP.
I forgot to note this is going to be a spring job. My plan is using railroad ties for cribbing, either get two lvls to span the sidewalls and lift on the lvls and place the cribbing under the lvls. Or just use bumper jacks on the 2x6s to get it up high enough for bottle jacks, then slide 6x6s thru the wall. But this method would require alot more rr ties. I could reuse the lvls for the garage door header.
DougWil
Well-known member
I lifted my 25x40 shop and drug it over 80 feet to its new location.
Used 3 floor jacks and 4x4 posts under the top plates to raise it up an inch or two here and there, evenly as possible till I could get the jacks underneath the wall.
The cost of 12' 2x6s you would be far cheaper and better with 4ft of CMU, epoxy doweled into the slab.
Used 3 floor jacks and 4x4 posts under the top plates to raise it up an inch or two here and there, evenly as possible till I could get the jacks underneath the wall.
The cost of 12' 2x6s you would be far cheaper and better with 4ft of CMU, epoxy doweled into the slab.
The walls are only 2x4s. By cmu do you mean block?
CMU = Concrete Masonry Unit = block
jbwilkins
Well-known member
It may be faster and less expensive to yank the roof off and remove the trusses and just reframe to the desired height. A couple of decent framing guys would be back drying it in over a weekend. No matter how you jack it, unless you bring in a house moving crew, you will spend at least a weekend just getting it up in the air and safely stabilized. Add in all the necessary materials for the jacking and you could have paid a framing crew. Personal time is money in some situations, and depending on where you are located, you could have weather problems that create havoc with the job.
+1 on this.....
I'd also be worried what shape the framing and sheathing would be in after hanging in the air for any length of time loaded in a fashion that it's not really designed to be loaded....
You're going to need to brace the **** out of it before you pull the bottom plate or the structure could rack....once you get the sistered studs in you probably need to nail the sheathing off to them too for structural integrity.
I dont think block will work for my application, since I need the rear wall to remain all stick built, due to the future 40x40 addition. When I build my new shop, the back wall will be removed so I have a clear span to the new shop. Im going to be using a 16ft wide overhead door on the gable end and have two man doors, one on each sidewall. So that doesnt leave much block support. And the block would have to be six courses high. I would think with only 2 1/4 walls of block it would have a big hinge effect. Im going to talk to mason buddy, but im betting he will urge me not to go that route.
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RWorth
Well-known member
I would call a local house mover and ask them how much to jack it up and set it on blocks, then drop it when your done, I'll bet it's not too bad. They have all the right jacks and blocks and can move huge buildings, that is kind of a day off for them. Definitely worth asking
DougWil
Well-known member
I dont think block will work for my application, since I need the rear wall to remain all stick built, due to the future 40x40 addition. When I build my new shop, the back wall will be removed so I have a clear span to the new shop. Im going to be using a 16ft wide overhead door on the gable end and have two man doors, one on each sidewall. So that doesnt leave much block support. And the block would have to be six courses high. I would think with only 2 1/4 walls of block it would have a big hinge effect. Im going to talk to mason buddy, but im betting he will urge me not to go that route.
A masonry block wall doweled down to the slab/ footing, filled with concrete grout isn't a hinge. It is fixed or a moment resistant connection.
Do you think if it was there by itself you could just rotate it loose from the slab by pulling on the top of the wall?
The wood sill plate to the wall is a hinge and so is the top plates to roof joists.
If the wood framed wall only was bolted by the sill plate only it is very easy to rotate if off the wall. If fact gravity and a small breeze would do it.
If the back wall is non load bearing, place the other 3 walls on block, bolt those down, remove the non load bearing back wall and replace with full height 2x6 studwall.
When you expand, remove that wall.
Be aware that since the front on the garage has a large opening, and with the back removed you have little to no lateral support in that direction and a stiff breeze against the side wall could collapse the building.
So you need bracing.
You also need to get an engineer involved. Increasing the building height by 4 ft is going to substantially increase the lateral loads and holdown forces on what sounds like a marginal footing.
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readhead
Well-known member
A steel moment frame in the end wall would solve the lateral loading issue. Install the frame and frame in the opening for now. When you add on simply remove the infill framing and you have a framed opening.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
My plan is nail a 2x6 about 12" up from the bottom plate.
Make that a 2x8 and you can use that as the jack point. You will probably need about 4 "hi lift farmer jacks" and only lift each side 2"-4" at a time.
Cross bracing of all walls is critical, especially across the door. This is likely going to take several days, so external hold downs should be installed overnight or when the wind is predicted to be >10mph.
LIFTING GARAGE 4 FEET HIGHER
How I lifted my double garage up 21 inches
The best advice is at the end of the second video. Once the pony walls are in place, notch the old bottom plate and the pony wall top plate so that you can run a "sistered" stud from the under the original top plate to the new footer.
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DougWil
Well-known member
A steel moment frame in the end wall would solve the lateral loading issue. Install the frame and frame in the opening for now. When you add on simply remove the infill framing and you have a framed opening.
I believe he has basically nothing that would qualify as a shearwall in the front gable wall where the garage door(s) are. Especially when he raises the wall to 12ft.
That leaves the back gabled wall taking the entire lateral load from side load winds or seismic.
A steel frame may be a solution, BUT it has to fastened down to resist overturning/uplift.
I doubt the existing mono footing has enough weight or can engage enough concrete because lack of rebar to contribute enough weight to meet code.
I had to totally reframe the garage. Every stud was cut and sistered.
^ That right there is a huge red flag that the original builder was cheap, clueless of both.
Suspect, that same guy didn't put in a beefy footing.
Falcon67
Well-known member
It may be faster and less expensive to yank the roof off and remove the trusses and just reframe to the desired height.
Disagree. I lifted the 22x16 with regular automotive floor jacks, went very quick. Work side to side about 4" or so at a time, you can be up 24" in a couple of hours. It's not that hard, really. A naked building - studs and open attic - really doesn't weight that much.
readhead
Well-known member
Doug, of course I would expect that suitable footings would be installed for the frame.
Disagree. I lifted the 22x16 with regular automotive floor jacks, went very quick. Work side to side about 4" or so at a time, you can be up 24" in a couple of hours. It's not that hard, really. A naked building - studs and open attic - really doesn't weight that much.
This is right on. Time and materials would be much less to jack it rather than remove the roof and rebuild. There's a reason why folks jack up and reframe vs tearing the roof off.
Do some Internet research and you'll see how it's braced, jacked and cribbed.
This doesn't address how you detail lifting the roof and tying the wall structure back together, but I had a professor who lifted the roof of his garage approx 2', framed in between the top of wall and the roof, then used polycarbonate to sheath the exterior so he had natural diffused light coming in from all sides.
DougWil
Well-known member
So maybe save my money and have the slab demo'd, poor a footer, frost walls and a new slab?
Probably leave it be and use it, or start from scratch.
Seems like it has some serious flaws to begin with.
I think you need a serious evaluation of what you have, before planning anything.
You might look at a sliding door and replace the bulky wood header with a far less bulky tube steel beam
Weekend_warrior
Well-known member
The thread that was linked on the first page makes part go pretty quickly. I'd bet with some help and someone that new what he was doing lifting will go a long way quickly.
Homerr
Well-known member
Are you intending to reuse the foundation as-is? Or actually adding a proper footing and stemwall?
I'm going to have my contractor and mason buddies come out and look at it and see what they think. I would like to avoid any masonry work if possible. This part of the shop will not have the lift in. And my new addition will be attached to the current shop, so I think I should be good. But I'm a mechanic, not a carpenter or mason, so I'm going to get their input on it. One way or the other I will have taller ceilings!