Lifting a stick built garage?

[godzilla]

And on the first page of the post, the link that was shared, the guy from canada is doing exactly what I want to do. Given we don't know whether he has a good slab or not. Im sure my buddies will steer me in the right direction as far as if I need footers , etc.

 

[Falcon67]

FWIW - a 4" slab is normal in this part of the country. I did the block on one side because it was basically below ground level and needed to make extra effort to try and keep water out. The only slab in there was poured between the walls, there was nothing under the bottom plates on the walls - just dirt. Been like that for probably 30 years or so I'd imagine.

 

[godzilla]

Thanks for the words of encouragement falcon. The slab was poured in 98 and seems to be in decent shape.

 

[brownbagg]

`block wall is cheap, filled with concrete, it be solid foundation without the hinge effect. it wouls also waterproof the bottom of wall protection from rot, bugs, and decay

 

[1949 caddyman]

Don't know if in was posted but Jonnymo did just this.http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=283853

 

[Farmerjonathan]

Buy your new lift now. Install, cross brace the walls over the lift. Utilizing your new lift, lift the garage, install knee walls or scab onto the studs extending them to the floor.

A couple of I beams across the lift through the walls would work wonders.

 

[godzilla]

Yeah I think I'm leaning towards block for the reason you mentioned.

 

[godzilla]

My lift is going in the new garage. I wouldn't attempt to install it in my current shop, with the slab only being 4". Plus im sure its not high psi Crete.

 

[godzilla]

Caddyman thanks. That link was shared on the first page. Thats how I will most likely lift my shop.