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Lifting sheet rock tape

dmdc411

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Joined
Aug 28, 2016
Messages
132
Location
Mn
I don't know if this is the correct place to ask. Figure there's alot of expertise here to cover this. Been in my house for 15 of its 19 years. Had one problem, lifting tape on a few spots. One is a 14 ft horizontal line of tape. Another is a 12 inch strip over a door. Yah, they screwed that one!! A few other short areas on the walls. I have repaired them all twice, by removing the loose tape, and the mud down to the rock. Then using(green lid) joint compound, wetting the tape and rock paper slightly as I've read, build it back up filling the joint. Final coat with (blue lid)light weight compound. The major lifting areas come back. The minor small areas, some return, some dont. Am I doing something wrong? Or is it the house? Ready to cover long wall with shiplap!!aa9127e6aaf07a664196b2a8a383b947.jpgdc527382a9e16de146d6147afb9c9091.jpg

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redneckcharlie

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Dec 26, 2009
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125
Chances are the initial drywallers did not do anything wrong or incorrect. Some homes will flex from settling or in most cases from expansion and contraction from normal heating and cooling cycles. The proper way to repair that is to remove the traditional tape and use a mesh style. Do not use regular joint compound or lightweight for your first couple of coats. Use a rapid set compound. It has a better bite and is stronger. It shrinks much less and is less prone to failure from movement. You can topcoat with a lightweight material for ease before painting.
 

Git

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Joined
May 18, 2008
Messages
6,894
Location
S Cal
Anytime I have seen that happen, and I have a couple of corner beads that are not adhered properly, the tape was not embedded in the mud enough

I would suggest you replace the existing tape with FibaFuse. It is stronger than mesh and pretty easy to embed in the mud. As charlie indicated, use one of the fast setting compounds, it actually hardens from a chemical reaction instead of drying from the water evaporating

You should be able to get a roll of FibaFuse at Lowes or Home Depot, or here is a link to Amazon
https://smile.amazon.com/d/Masking-...=UTF8&qid=1547097638&sr=8-3&keywords=fibafuse
 

tonyciambrone

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Joined
Nov 4, 2015
Messages
1,152
Location
Northern Illinois
cut the tape out, cut the old mud out of the groove. Pre-fill with Durabond. Tape with Fibafuse and Durabond.

Top coats from there with whatever you want (all purpose, dust control, lightweight, plus 3)

I use zissner gardz on the portion of paint I will be skimming over after retaping that.

I never tape with All Pupose or traditional weave style mesh tapes. That is a losing combo around here. the traditional weaves (I think) have too little surface area, and All purpose (I know) has some adhesive properties but not enough.
 
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glentre

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Joined
May 21, 2016
Messages
909
Location
Gloucester, Virginia
From the photos, looks like your house is moving, causing the tape problem at the joints. Resolve that issue and the problem will not keep coming back.

Glen
 
OP
D

dmdc411

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Joined
Aug 28, 2016
Messages
132
Location
Mn
From the photos, looks like your house is moving, causing the tape problem at the joints. Resolve that issue and the problem will not keep coming back.

Glen
Glen, I agree with you. When I bought the place, I talked with the builder about that. I grew up with his kids, he built my parents house in the mid 70s. We both looked over the foundation, and structure as we well as we could. He did send two guys over to nail a couple trusses to the walls where the mid level meets the two story portion. That did nothing. No cracks or foundation problems were found. Today,10yr warranty is gone. Builder's died, it's my baby! The 14 ft wall is a vapor barriered wall for a ventilated crawl space. The above door peel/crack? Found that closet was installed after the house was completed. It cantilever s out over the garage floor. I suspect no header over the door, but it's not anything close to load bearing. The house did have other areas of cracking from setteling. All small tape joints, repaired when painting and never returned. Just these two areas, that have been fixed twice, going on a third!

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dogdog

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Joined
Nov 15, 2011
Messages
12,711
Poor taping job... not enough coverage is my experience from these things....

Usually I'll just use a knife and pick it out and pull it out and re-tape... and feather the mud/joint compound... over the course of 3 days.... mud on the tape looks really thin....
 

wasfast

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Joined
Apr 10, 2014
Messages
874
Location
San Diego CA
I'm with dogdog; not enough mud under the tape. As suggested earlier, cut out the existing tape and mud, fiber tape and re-mud.
 

benjamintmiller

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2011
Messages
284
Location
IA
Every time I have seen this, it has been from not enough compound under the tape.

You don't need to wet paper tape before installing it, but you do need to add water to the new bucket of compound. I usually use about a cup per 5 gallon bucket, but I mix it in slowly to get the right consistency. Green bucket mud starts at about peanut butter, and you want something closer to pudding.
 
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