Liftmaster 3800 on Wayne Dalton Torquemaster?

[CuStOm]

Hello all. I am new to the site and am trying to determine if there is a known method to install a Liftmaster 3800 jackshaft opener on a Wayne Dalton door that uses their Torquemaster counterbalance system. As most know the shaft is of a non-standard size. I am hoping someone perhaps made an adapter or something.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks for your time.
Keith

 

[Dave928]

every opener co i've asked says it can't be done.

why not an iDrive?

 

[CuStOm]

every opener co i've asked says it can't be done.

why not an iDrive?

Almost everything I've read about the iDrive makes it sound like a nightmare to own. I really like the concept but am afraid of the lack of engineering that apparently went into the product.

I have installed 8' garage doors to clear my Thule ski box/Canopy on my truck. My goal was to be able to back the truck in and use my pulley setup to remove the Thule ski box or canopy. This becomes very difficult, if not impossible, with a garage door opener motor above the vehicle. With that said I am looking for a jackshaft option or some other design that does not place the motor/belt/screw/chain above the vehicle.

The next priority I have is an automated lock for the garage door. I have things of high value in the garage and really want an automated lock. The 3800 has this. I have found a Marantec M-4700e with the Locmatic option that will fill this need but it is an over-the-car motor arrangement.

Are there other options? I hate to swap out the Torquemaster counterweight system as these are brand new doors on my brand new house. I had no idea the contractor was going to use these or that it was going to pose a problem. I have no leverage to make the contractor change them and I am out of $$ to do it myself.

Thanks!

 

[pattenp]

You know you always hear the bad stuff about things but maybe I'm a fluke. I have a 8' X 18' Wayne Dalton door with the iDrive openner and had no problems installing the door or openner and everything has been working great for three years +. The only minor issue I had was getting the remote key fobs programmed and that was me not understanding the instructions on the first read. I say go for the iDrive if the LiftMaster won't fit. All I can say is ... I've been pleased with mine. One caveat is that you can't convert the iDrive to do a highlift door. That could be a downside if you plan on having a lift in the future where you may need to make your garage door a highlift, providing you have the ceiling height.

 

[sparky1562]

I would agree, if you don't plan on going high lift, then try the Idrive. I just converted my WDTM to a high lift with new shaft and springs. $ 300 for the 3800 and $400 for the high lift conversion.

 

[CuStOm]

Has anyone heard any improvements or experiences with the new "Pro" version of the iDrive?
http://www.prodoorparts.com/products/439.cfm

 

[ovilla]

I have one iDrive and an LM 3800. The iDrive was a pain in the *** to set up and finally get to work successfully. Keep in mind that I'm not a pro but I have installed a good 30+ Craftsman units in my time. The iDrive WAS easy to install but getting it to work as designed and then getting it to learn it's own remotes was hell. It took about an hour to set it up because I was going slow and reading the directions. Then tweaking so that the doors would open/close properly and getting the remotes/light to work took at least 3-4 days. The only reason I did not take it down and return it was because Menards had stopped carrying them (actually everyone did for about a year - at least the torsion spring iDrive unit). Having said that, the iDrive does work now but I purposely do not ever pull the cord to allow for manually opening/closing the door as it never works right when I go back to automated mode. I even called around and found that most of the professional garage door companies don't want to deal with the iDrive units at all. They kept telling me that there were too many issues and call backs with these. On the other hand the LM 3800 openers are awesome and are a breeze to put up and set up correctly. I would cut my losses and skip the iDrive unit and pay the extra for regular torsion springs and then get an LM3800. Since you are concerned about security, do keep in mind that the LM300 does have the deadbolt and will also allow you to hook up a back up battery to it.


P.S. You know it's bad when you open the iDrive box and there's at least 4-5 papers/stickers telling you that if you have trouble do not return the opener to where you bought it but to instead call their 800 number.

Why can't you change your order to the regular torsion springs but still keep the WD doors?

 

[CuStOm]

Why can't you change your order to the regular torsion springs but still keep the WD doors?

The doors are already installed and functioning. I merely avoided having the contractor install openers due to the cost.

Reading your issues, it sounds like the PRO came out to address these same issues. At least thats how I read the PRO changes.

 

[Doctorsti]

Anyone know enough about the pro idrive to tell if it can be converted to high lift? I was looking at the idrive too as I was going to hoist my bike rack up and down from over my car but the traditional openers get in the way. We also have brand new WD doors with the torquemaster system. I read so many bad reviews on idrive I have been opening my door by hand until something comes up that seems to be a good product. This pro version may be just the thing. I may be getting a lift in the future so I don't want to have to replace it should I get that.

 

[CuStOm]

I spoke to all three of the WD installers in my area (Portland) and all of them said the improvements of the Pro were not worth the bother and they still refuse to install them for people. They will sell you one out the door but will not install it for you due to call-back cost loss.

 

[nova65ss]

You can take down the torquemaster setup and convert it to torsion we do it all the time. Will cost you a hundred or two but IMO a good idea. The TMS usually only lasts about 5 years anyway.

 

[Doctorsti]

You can take down the torquemaster setup and convert it to torsion we do it all the time. Will cost you a hundred or two but IMO a good idea. The TMS usually only lasts about 5 years anyway.

It costs 90 dollars to replace the spring units on the wayne dalton torquemaster. If they last 5 years, I would say thats not too far off standard springs on garage doors. I would imagine wayne dalton fixed the idrive but pro installers are hesitant to install due to past experience. I am going to order one up tonight and install next week so I will provide my review then. From what I understand the torquemaster and idrive must be set up perfectly or they will fail prematurely (5 years or less). I will just make sure it's perfect.

 

[ovilla]

I haven't seen the Pro iDrive units but unless they also incorporated a cable slack monitor, skip it. I actually had my door start closing when a wagon was in the way and the door did not reverse. It kept on closing the door and when the door got stuck on top of the wagon the iDrive unspooled both of my drums.

The LM3800 has the cable slack monitor and it works really well (I've already tested it too!). Seriously, the LM3800 is a quality product that's been very reliable and in use by lots of satisfied folks. Do a google on LM3800 and you'll find a ton of great reviews. All of the iDrive experiences have been nothing but disasters.

If you still want an iDrive, I'll sell you mine really cheap so I can fund another LM3800. If I even have one more issue with the iDrive, I'll be using that as an excuse to dump it.

 

[ckgdrums]

Okay, I am about to install an 8' x 7' Wayne-Dalton GD on my garage. I was planning on using the LM3800 for my opener. And, so far I haven't heard whether or not this opener will work with the TorqueMaster setup on the W-D doors.

Can anyone elaborate? Please.

 

[CuStOm]

No it will not. The jack shaft is not compatible as the torquemaster will not allow the opener to open.

 

[ckgdrums]

No it will not. The jack shaft is not compatible as the torquemaster will not allow the opener to open.

Well, ****! That's not what I wanted to hear. Is there any modifications that can be made to make it work, short of changing to a standard torsion spring setup?

 

[CuStOm]

Everyone I talked to said you HAD to change out to a normal spring setup to use the LM

 

[ckgdrums]

okay. thank you. :-(

 

[pattenp]

Well, ****! That's not what I wanted to hear. Is there any modifications that can be made to make it work, short of changing to a standard torsion spring setup?

If you already purchased the WD with the TorqueMaster bar why not just use the iDrive. I have the newer iDrive and have been very happy with it. I didn't have any trouble setting it up or programming the remotes. I know the older IDrives had issues but I believe those have been fixed. The only thing is if you are planning a high lift door the iDrive w/TorqueMaster won't work.

 

[ckgdrums]

No, no hi-lift. I've just been hearing awful things about the iDrive, and don't want to get stuck with a lemon.

I wonder if a person could make an adapter that fits over the hex-shaped end of the TMS shaft with a straight piece of steel rod welded to the other end for the LM coupler to fit over? Does anyone think that is possible?

 

[pattenp]

Well I must be an exception to the rule because my iDrive w/TorqueMaster has been powering my 18' x 8' up and down for three years with out a hitch. It's as quiet and fast as the day it was installed.

I believe your solution is to buy a new shaft that will work with the LiftMaster.