Liftmaster 8500 Question

[maljr12]

Hey y'all,

I have a Liftmaster 8500 giving me some trouble. It's been in use about 15 months. Previously it wouldn't shut and it just seemed like a force/limit reset was needed. At the time it was late at night and the wife and I had just returned home - I decided to pull the release rope and close by hand and just address the issue in the morning. Now when I attempt to open it, it unlocks as normal but just hums for a second then doesn't move at all. I opened it up to look inside and it looks like the emergency release didn't go back to its normal position. The spring attached to the release is stretched and the metal bracket (part of which sticks through a slot on the side) is pulled down. I can't get it to go back up.

When I called Liftmaster they were content just to send me a new motor and disregarded the emergency release issue - I'm glad to have a back up motor but I can't help but think if I can get the emergency release back where it should be I won't have to go through replacing it. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[Walter_TA]

Did you push it all the way open? If the door was open when you pulled the release it will not reset until it is in the same position.

 

[gnpenning]

Did you push it all the way open? If the door was open when you pulled the release it will not reset until it is in the same position.

WHAT!!
The opener doesn't care what position the door is in.

The release rope should be a easy pull and click. There is no need to get carried away pulling it.

The bigger question is to why it failed in the first place. If Liftmaster wasn't having so many issues with the 8500 they would normally take you through trouble shooting and replace only the part they feel is needed. I think they are finally feeling the heat and trying to make it right.

I would need more information to help with why it failed the first time.

 

[ben5243]

First, check if you can still open it manually. It sounds like you need to manually open the door to where it was when you pulled the release. It should re-engage but if you've already removed and taken apart the motor unit you may have a harder time.

Check the balance of the door and make sure it's still good. Then once you get it re-engaged, BEFORE operating it, re run the open and close set point procedure and the force calibration.

I believe the process for re-engaging the release and all of the calibrations are outlined in the user manual.

Page 22 shows the emergency release
https://www.liftmaster.com/catalogresourcesv3/en-us/shared/files/tucmanuals/114a4565.pdf

And Pages 19-20 will take you through the adjustments/calibrations. Follow everything exactly.

It's possible your photoelectric sensors got bumped or misaligned and that's why it wouldn't close last night. If you have the wireless light hooked up, the number of flashes should tell you why it's not happy on page 30

 

[rattle_snake]

I think the release mechanism isn't re-engaged. I had similar experience on 1st manual release, gave error code for non-moving motor but was because it was disengaged.

 

[2level]

I think the release mechanism isn't re-engaged. I had similar experience on 1st manual release, gave error code for non-moving motor but was because it was disengaged.

Yep, pretty good chance that the release rope needs to be pulled again, and again.

 

[maljr12]

Thanks for all the responses, I'll give it a go tonight and let y'all know if anything works.

 

[maljr12]

Manually put garage door back up into position it was when I originally pulled manual release. Took a few tugs on the release rope but it went finally went back to where it should be. Door works just fine now. From what I've read in the forum I should probably hold on to the free motor Liftmaster sent - seems like I'll be needing it. Thanks!

 

[CraigStu]

Not the same problem but my 8500 was having problems w/ the door starting to move to go closed. It was up too high on a horizontal track so not enough gravity to get it started. tried and tried to reset the up travel limit w/ no luck. Finally put stops on the track so the force limiter stopped it. 6 months later I had the thing depowered for a couple of hours for some reason I forget. When I plugged it back in the travel limit setting procedure worked like a champ.

 

[ben5243]

Not the same problem but my 8500 was having problems w/ the door starting to move to go closed. It was up too high on a horizontal track so not enough gravity to get it started. tried and tried to reset the up travel limit w/ no luck. Finally put stops on the track so the force limiter stopped it. 6 months later I had the thing depowered for a couple of hours for some reason I forget. When I plugged it back in the travel limit setting procedure worked like a champ.

The installer that sold me my doors and 8500s recommended adding a few degrees of slope to the horizontal tracks. Set a level on your tracks and make sure they slope downward a little. The 8500 can't push the door down like a traditional chain driven opener so it needs to be able to roll smoothly downward as the spring tension is released. If it doesn't start rolling, the cable tension monitor (if installed correctly) should sense slack on the cable and stop the motor.

Some people on here will tell you an 8500 is only meant to be used on hi-lift doors but it has no problem if you add a tiny bit of slope to your tracks (not enough that it won't stay open with the manual release pulled, just a little)

 

[gnpenning]

The installer that sold me my doors and 8500s recommended adding a few degrees of slope to the horizontal tracks. Set a level on your tracks and make sure they slope downward a little. The 8500 can't push the door down like a traditional chain driven opener so it needs to be able to roll smoothly downward as the spring tension is released. If it doesn't start rolling, the cable tension monitor (if installed correctly) should sense slack on the cable and stop the motor.

Some people on here will tell you an 8500 is only meant to be used on hi-lift doors but it has no problem if you add a tiny bit of slope to your tracks (not enough that it won't stay open with the manual release pulled, just a little)

GJ classic right here. Paid someone else to do it but is an online expert.....

 

[ben5243]

GJ classic right here. Paid someone else to do it but is an online expert.....

Why would it matter if I installed the doors and openers myself or if I'm just passing along information from an installer I paid? Especially if it helps the OP fix his problem??

I did install everything myself by the way... why would the installer that SOLD me the doors and openers give me install advice if I paid for install?

If you think anything I said is wrong, be useful and post a counter-argument...

 

[gnpenning]

Why would it matter if I installed the doors and openers myself or if I'm just passing along information from an installer I paid? Especially if it helps the OP fix his problem??

I did install everything myself by the way... why would the installer that SOLD me the doors and openers give me install advice if I paid for install?

If you think anything I said is wrong, be useful and post a counter-argument...

It matters since you are acting like you have more than a passing knowledge. You stated you paid an installer not a vendor, who knows what you really did. Not everyone in every profession gives good information. Especially counter to the manufacturers. Also your post had nothing to do with the OP problem.


Liftmaster recommends the 8500 to be used with either a high lift track or pusher springs. At one time they had a reference to raising the rear of the tracks. This has worked for some , but have to many variables to be a sure thing.

I think if you got lucky doing something once you don't have enough base to be giving sound advice. Especially when the manufacturer has a better recommendation.

Anyone suggesting raising the tracks should be willing to come out and fix any birds nesting of the cables. I have yet to hear anyone willing to do that. Maybe you can be the first..

I've done it several ways and after having to do a late night service call on a birds nest, I have since done them as described. Since I warranty my work I won't half *** it to save a buck. More importantly I know my customer isn't going to be having problems.

 

[GTO]

GJ classic right here. Paid someone else to do it but is an online expert.....

GJ classic right here...pro installer who comes online and puts down a poster trying to give advice,rather than just posting his own advice....

 

[gnpenning]

GJ classic right here...pro installer who comes online and puts down a poster trying to give advice,rather than just posting his own advice....

Here's another Classic GJ. Someone that doesn't read all the post, then makes a comment. Look at post #3.

And yes, when someone with no knowledge gives advice telling them not to pay attention to what pros say, they need to be called out.

 

[cut twice measure once]

It's really appreciated when a pro takes time to part with some hard won advice. We all are pro's at something after all.

I had the same issue with the E release sticking and the motor wouldn't engage. Remove the 2 secret screws (manual does not explain this-jerks!) on the bottom of the front cover and remove by lifting upward. The sheetmetal part that disengages the dogs in the side of the motor drive gear interacts with some little plastic part that gets stuck. Spray some slippery substance in this general area and work the metal part with your hand till it becomes unstuck. Viola, normal operations again!

But since most of you guys are looking at a blog called Garage Journal, you probably don't want to get your hands dirty so you should probably call a Professional Doorguy.

 

[TTMotorsports]

Garage Door Pusher Springs - Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076JHQ2N1/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Install these at end of track so door has tension on them at full up. Itll help the door get started down when you click the button.

 

[yupthedump]

Hello everyone. Magnifying glass, laser precision he said she said quote garbage aside, I just want to let someone else know how we solved this issue on our brand new 8500W.

The emergency release was stuck in manual on our less than 24 hour old opener. The motor would hum briefly and stop giving error code 1-5. As it turns out, I had to pull down on the release cable "slowly but firmly" until it "clicked" and reset. The door was closed when I first pulled it and open all the way when I reset it for record's sake. I was too scared to break something which I have done many times with other things; scarred I guess. I kept adding tension, carefully, until I felt a small click. Just a stupid thing this time around, but I hope that helps someone out there.