Liftmaster MT5011 Opener Problem -- Resurrected

[Hooked]

This winter we started having a problem with 20+ year old Liftmaster chaindrive opener when the temp drops to around 50 degrees.

When attempting to close the door it will automatically reverse multiple times (5/10/15+) before it eventually closes. Sometimes we can stop it immediately and hit the close button again and it will go down further, sometimes it just reverses immediately. Temp gets above 50 degrees and no longer a problem.
I've searched the interweb for possible answer with no success. Called Liftmaster tech support and they no longer support this model. I though maybe the clutch disc was worn so just recently replaced it with what I thought was a solution. The temp was in the mid-40s and the door closed completely a couple times but then the next morning we had the same problem so must have just been a fluke (or held my mouth just right).
I'm guessing it's related to the auto-reverse circuit on the board but I don't know to check something of that nature.

Anyhoo, I'd appreciate any/all suggestions of what to check/try before calling the local Liftmaster experts to come check it.

 

[jstroede]

If you hold the close button, does it close?

 

[Hooked]

Negative. It's as though it hits an obstruction and automatically goes up. Stopping it and hitting the close button will sometimes get it going down again but not always.
After posting my question I poured through the owners manual and HELP on their website. Reading about the automatic return and couldn't recall if I'd tried adjusting the pressure setting so tightened that down some. Same problem this morning when the temps are in the mid/upper 40s.

 

[WillyBoy]

I had the same problem with one door although the temperature needed to be below 35 degrees before it started acting up.
I attributed it to a crack in a circuit board or a connection that didn't make contact when it got cold.
Ended up being a moot point. Last year we had all new doors, tracks, and openers installed.

 

[Monza Harry]

I am far from an "Informed poster" but from reading a few hundred "GJ" garage door opener threads, I'm learning, a lot! My question/path to solution is, does your opener have a low tension protection circuit (child crush protection). If your track tightens up in the cold, and resists the door moving down and this causes the chain to go slack (chain stretch is a constant maintenance issue) and trigger the open circuit. Should be an easy confirmation, just watch the chain as the door closes. Then correct as required, tighten chain, and or lube wheels/track/lift spring and associated hardware, have he spring preload checked. Is the lubed dried out and causing excessive friction? Harry

 

[Hooked]

Good suggestions Harry, thank you. Some things for me to investigate.
I hadn't considered the possibility of the track tightening which could match up with my observations of the location of the wheels when the problem happens most often. The problem happens most often when one of the wheels is at the 90 degree turn.
Regarding the lube items, I do that pretty regularly but when this first started I lubed everything again just to be sure. I use one of the spray lubes 'made' for garage door hardware and 30W oil on the chain.

 

[jstroede]

I am assuming when you said 20 years old that this is Pre photo eye requirements for commercial openers. Does it have any secondary devices installed, like photo eyes, light beams, miller edge, etc? Have you run the opener with no door attached? Those older commercial openers don't have many of the safety features that most now are used to. How does the door operate on its own? If you disconnect the opener from the door and remove the cover, you should be able to watch things operate. Do the limit switches operate normally? On that opener, they are literally contact switches. That's where I would start.

John

 

[Hooked]

I am assuming when you said 20 years old that this is Pre photo eye requirements for commercial openers. Does it have any secondary devices installed, like photo eyes, light beams, miller edge, etc? Have you run the opener with no door attached? Those older commercial openers don't have many of the safety features that most now are used to. How does the door operate on its own? If you disconnect the opener from the door and remove the cover, you should be able to watch things operate. Do the limit switches operate normally? On that opener, they are literally contact switches. That's where I would start.

John

More good suggestions/thoughts. Thanks John.
No secondary devices installed. The only 'safety' feature is the auto reverse if there is an obstruction -- I test that by lifting on the door as it closes.
I've disconnected the door and it works fine, run the opener with the door disconnected, watched/checked the limit switches(cover is still off).
The temps this week are well above 50 so it'll be a week or so before I expect to experience another failure condition.

I appreciate the feedback and will be checking/re-checking the things ya'll have mentioned.

 

[Hooked]

I'm bringing this one back to the braintrust..........winter has arrived. lol

Same thing still happens during the cold weather and I've not found a solution after testing things again. I had a company come out to look things over but discovered they didn't know anything more than me so suggested upgrading to newer units. Before going to the expense of complete replacements I found a new MT5011 motor unit on Amazon so ordered one. However, if it isn't a direct replacement for the entire motor, housing, etc. I'll probably return it.
If I need to consider replacement units, are there brands other than Liftmaster which I may want to consider? I'm leaning toward moving to one of the wall mounted units to eliminate the rail/chain mechanism. Does anyone have experience with these units? Are they reliable long term?
Appreciate your comments/feedback/suggestions.

 

[BrandonV]

I'm bringing this one back to the braintrust..........winter has arrived. lol

Same thing still happens during the cold weather and I've not found a solution after testing things again. I had a company come out to look things over but discovered they didn't know anything more than me so suggested upgrading to newer units. Before going to the expense of complete replacements I found a new MT5011 motor unit on Amazon so ordered one. However, if it isn't a direct replacement for the entire motor, housing, etc. I'll probably return it.
If I need to consider replacement units, are there brands other than Liftmaster which I may want to consider? I'm leaning toward moving to one of the wall mounted units to eliminate the rail/chain mechanism. Does anyone have experience with these units? Are they reliable long term?
Appreciate your comments/feedback/suggestions.

The jackshaft openers are good. The newer Liftmasters are even better having eliminated the separate cable tension monitor sensor.

If you have the space and a receptacle near by it would be a no brainer.

 

[Wiz02]

I agree with @BrandonV , my Liftmaster jackshaft operator works smoothly is very quiet and was easy to install.

Only issue was that the light was staying on all the time. The operator is a 2016 vintage and specified using incandescent bulbs for the light. While I used incandescent bulbs, the light still failed and I was too lazy to troubleshoot it, so I bought a new one that doesn't have the incandescent light only restriction.

All in all, I would recommend buying the current version of the Liftmaster 8500.

 

[Hooked]

Thanks for the quick responses gents. I didn't realize this would be an easy DIY installation so even better news.
The company I had out recommended the Liftmaster 98032 with battery backup. Looking on Amazon it appears the 98022 model replaced the 8500. Looking over the specs, it appears the only difference is lifting capacity of 1100 lbs(98032) vs. 850 lbs(98022).
I knew I should have come here first before ordering the replacement for the MT5011.

 

[BrandonV]

Yup. 98022 removed the external cable tension monitor. Makes for a quicker install.

 

[Hooked]

My 98022 should be here in a couple days.

 

[Hooked]

Got the 98222 a few days back but was delayed installing immediately. Took a little longer than expected as I had to modify a couple light switches to get an outlet up to the opener location. Once that was done the installation went very smoothly and I'm very pleased with the new setup. Much quieter/smoother than the old overhear setup.

Thanks again for all your feedback/suggestions.

 

[pima67]

I like mine installed on 12/1/2023 though I had some 6 warrantee service calls starting in Mar before they finally replaced the unit. Been working OK since then (8/30/24)

 

[Hooked]

I like mine installed on 12/1/2023 though I had some 6 warrantee service calls starting in Mar before they finally replaced the unit. Been working OK since then (8/30/24)

I sure hope mine doesn't have those kind of problems. Since this was a self install I'm not sure if any companies would do warranty service. Hmmmm

 

[pima67]

Hopefully not. After 3 service calls which "fixed" the problem for a while only to return. I spent over an hour on the phone with LM tech support. After many adjustments, he decided the travel module needs replacing and sent me one. The next service call I told the tech what LM said but he just did some more adjustments but didn't replace the module. When it failed again, he replaced the unit. The problem was that it stopped doing that closing little dance just above the floor and would go back up. I could get the door to stay shut by closing it again sometimes a couple of times in a row. If it happens again, I have the module at hand. The downside is that I watch it to ensure it closed though it's fun to watch the dance. And that he swapped batteries from the old to the new unit.