Lifts and lift points

[cnk]

I've wanted to purchase a lift for a while now and in my research, I've found that a lot of lifts simply don't have the reach to be able to hit the lift points on my car.

Here's some background information:

1. Currently have a Subaru BRZ and the lift points from front to back are 60" apart.

2. Do not want a 2 post lift as I would have to be constantly unbolting 1 pillar in order to fit both cars in the garage.

3. Have strongly considered the Bendpak Quickjack BL-5000, P6-B, MD-6XP, and Atlas Kwik Bay 7000.

My issue is that the only 2 that could possibly work are the MD-6XP and Atlas Kwik Bay 7000 assuming I lock one of the ramps up to provide extra length. In my research on this forum and others, I've seen that some folks just line up the front lift point and go as far back as possible and put another rubber block on the pinch weld. This is often times 7-9" in front of the factory recommended lift point. Is this safe to do? Have others done this without issues?

My reason for asking is that I would really prefer to use something like the Quickjack BL-5000 so that I can easily move it around for storage or transport. It would also make it easier to take delivery of the lift since I don't have access to a fork lift, engine hoist, or anything that could handle unloading an 800+ lb lift from a delivery truck and place it into my garage.

Appreciate any insight/help I can get.

 

[zkdiesel]

You saying 2 post lift won't hit your lift points, pretty much only the cheap *** lifts you are looking at won't hit the points.... My professional grade two posts would have no problem lifting that car

 

[pattenp]

Go to your local Subaru dealer and ask what lift they use to service the BRZ on, and ask about the lift points.

 

[cnk]

You saying 2 post lift won't hit your lift points, pretty much only the cheap *** lifts you are looking at won't hit the points.... My professional grade two posts would have no problem lifting that car

No, I'm saying I don't want a 2 post lift as it does not fit my requirements as stated in my OP. That's great that your professional grade 2 post could lift my car, but that doesn't answer or address any of my questions, none of which ask about the quality of a lift, but rather the importance of reaching the specified lift points by the manufacturer.

 

[cnk]

Go to your local Subaru dealer and ask what lift they use to service the BRZ on, and ask about the lift points.

Most dealers around me use a 2 post lift that can reach the lift points. 2 posts are not an option for me as stated above. Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

[pattenp]

I misread your statement about the 2 post lift. I was thinking you were saying you'd have to move the columns back and forth to different widths for both cars to fit the lift. Have you considered the MaxJax lift?

Most dealers around me use a 2 post lift that can reach the lift points. 2 posts are not an option for me as stated above. Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

[cnk]

I misread your statement about the 2 post lift. I was thinking you were saying you'd have to move the columns back and forth to different widths for both cars to fit the lift. Have you considered the MaxJax lift?

Have looked at it, but my wife insists that she still be able to park her car in the garage and with my motorcycle in between the 2 cars there is no room for a post. I would have to unbolt one post after every use. That's why I'm looking at the lifts I listed as I can build up some ramps around the lift and leave it in place or embed them into the floor.

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[pattenp]

That's the point of the MaxJax, it's portable. You remove/store it when not in use. You want an easy leave in place solution.

How high do you want to lift?

Have you looked at Challenger Lifts?
http://www.challengerlifts.com/SRM10.shtml



*

 

[cnk]

That's the point of the MaxJax, it's portable. You remove/store it when not in use.

I understand that. Maybe I wasn't clear in my previous posts. I don't want to have to unbolt it and reinstall it every time. Hence, for me, the MaxJax is not an option.

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[stangkid14]

You have everyone here confused. If you do NOT want a 2 post, then dont get one. Buy a 4 post drive on lift....I am not understanding what your post is about

 

[pattenp]

You're fast on the replies. I edited my post asking about Challenger Lifts.

 

[pattenp]

He want's something like this with a small foot print that can be left in place.

You have everyone here confused. If you do NOT want a 2 post, then dont get one. Buy a 4 post drive on lift....I am not understanding what your post is about

 

[cnk]

You have everyone here confused. If you do NOT want a 2 post, then dont get one. Buy a 4 post drive on lift....I am not understanding what your post is about

Don't really understand how it could be confusing. The main question is in this paragraph from my OP:


My issue is that the only 2 that could possibly work are the MD-6XP and Atlas Kwik Bay 7000 assuming I lock one of the ramps up to provide extra length. In my research on this forum and others, I've seen that some folks just line up the front lift point and go as far back as possible and put another rubber block on the pinch weld. This is often times 7-9" in front of the factory recommended lift point. Is this safe to do? Have others done this without issues?

2 post and 4 post lifts are not an option. I already listed the lifts I'm looking at. My question pertains to whether or not it's safe to lift without reaching the factory lift points or not. I can't imagine I'm the only person that has this issue since many folks on this forum have the lifts I've listed (not including the bl-5000 since it's relatively new).

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[cnk]

You're fast on the replies. I edited my post asking about Challenger Lifts.

Looks like that one only has a 50" pad length so it wouldn't reach either. Which leads back to my question of whether or not it would be safe to use if you can't hit both lift points.

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[pattenp]

I don't see how it would be a problem not hitting the defined lift points on the body edge because those lift point are used when using the supplied jack in the car which lifts at one point only. Those platform lifts spread the weight along the whole body edge. Some of the low rise lift come with rubber blocks if you have to keep the car up off the lift plates because of hanging muffler pipes and such.

Looks like that one only has a 50" pad length so it wouldn't reach either. Which leads back to my question of whether or not it would be safe to use if you can't hit both lift points.

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[Jvvmusme]

I understand that. Maybe I wasn't clear in my previous posts. I don't want to have to unbolt it and reinstall it every time. Hence, for me, the MaxJax is not an option.

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Unbolting and moving one column on the maxjax takes 5 minutes and its a one man job

 

[cnk]

Unbolting and moving one column on the maxjax takes 5 minutes and its a one man job

I would have to cut my existing slab and pour foundations for the maxjax. I don't want to do that and I don't want to unbolt/bolt every time I want to use it. Not sure why everyone keeps trying to push the MaxJax when I've already stated that it's not an option I want to pursue.

The point of this thread was to ask about the ramifications of not being able to use the factory lift points. It is not a debate on the merits of maxjax or 2 post lifts.

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[nehog]

The only useful answer will be from the lift maker, or Subaru.

 

[Jagmandave]

As long as you have the weight balanced properly front to rear and pick a good strong spot, I can't see what difference it would make.

The factory lift points are marked that way for regular 2 post lifts.

Now are you saying you'll be using scissors lift and that the lift pads don't reach as far as the factory lift points? Cause again I don't see a problem as long as you pick something strong and balance the load.

 

[Ign]

Seems to me this could be easily remedied with a little thing called metal fabrication? Buy the lift you want/like and build lift points/adapters from there. I've made several custom adapters for my 2 post.

 

[wedge40]

I would suggest either sell the car, or build a another garage.

Wedge

 

[tonyx]

I would suggest either sell the car, or build a another garage.

Wedge

Harsh reply.

I would chime in and say if you use pad type of lifter with parallelogram mechanism it doesn't matter if you hit the rear lift point due to spreading of the forces.

Only concern would be if the pad shape of the lifter would interfere with any underbody components. May want to take cardboard cut to the shape of lifting pad and put it up against the underbody. Wouldn't want any fuel or brake lines to get crushed during the first lift.

 

[bmxdad]

Get yourself a couple of beams fabbed up. Cost you a couple hundred bucks, then you can use any size scissor lift you want.

 

[Danver]

In my research on this forum and others, I've seen that some folks just line up the front lift point and go as far back as possible and put another rubber block on the pinch weld. This is often times 7-9" in front of the factory recommended lift point. Is this safe to do? Have others done this without issues?

Just to go back and address this part of the original question, I don't see why this would be any problem as long as the weight distribution doesn't become an issue and the car has the typical vertical pinch weld. You would have to verify for the specific model but generally for heavy structural pulling and repair after collisions unibody cars are clamped and supported from the pinch welds so strength shouldn't be a problem.

Just my opinion of course and I'm not saying I have any official knowledge that this would be a safe practice.

 

[cspcrx]

OP, I think the bendpak will work for you just fine. I just went through the same issue a few months ago before buying my lift. The primary car I was lifting is a 1986 CRX, much smaller and shorter than your BRZ. My lift points are much less than 60 in apart and I lift the car with no trouble. The best part is that is sits under the car not when in use and is completely out of the way. Here is my thread...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252259

 

[APEowner]

I've never lifted a car like yours so I can't say for sure that it would work but I can tell you that most of the time techs don't know or care where the factory lift points are. They stick the pads under the pinch welds or wherever there's something substantial to pick from.

 

[cnk]

Thanks for all the information. It's helped to alleviate any concerns I have about reaching the jack points. Now I just need to decide on whether I want to go with the Quickjack, P-6B, or Kwik Bay 7000. The QJ would be easiest as I have no idea how I would be able to take delivery of the other units without anything to lift them off the delivery truck.