Light Fixture Blocks for pole Barn - One Solution

[GRivera]

Light Fixture Blocks for Pole Barn Metal Siding - One Solution

Like many on here I haven't had luck locating a fixture block that works with metal siding so had to fabricate my own. I bought an 8' 1x6" piece of PVC trim board (actual size 3/4 x 5.5") and cut it into 7" lengths to make 5 fixture mounts. Then I ripped pieces of the same board to pad out the blocks with a 45 degree contour to accommodate the large ridges on the metal siding. I glued the pad out pieces longways to the back of the pads with Loctite Power Grab Ultimate adhesive - works with PVC.

For install, I added a 2x4 vertical backer studs to the interior, between purlins. I then screwed the blocks onto the siding with self tapping 3" exterior screws. I drilled a 1" hole through the block, metal siding and the backer board; and then surface mounted a pancake electrical box to each PVC block. The flanges on the goose neck lights I bought cover the pancake box so there was no need to recess the box. However, if could be done if needed as each mounting block has the pad behind it. I will fill the small gap between the fixture blocks and the siding with white silicone caulk to avoid any moisture issues. The lights are't installed yet but I attached link for a visual.

I think they turned out pretty well considering the raw materials.

I realize this sounds a bit confusing but the pics may bridge the gap.The lights are not yet installed.

 

[mike93lx]

Look good. That stuff is paintable too. A little sanding, filler and paint would make it look even better, if you are so inclined.

 

[GRivera]

Thanks - it actually looks pretty good in person. The PVC is really easy to clean too. I'll see how they hold up.

 

[Chucktin]

Re: Light Fixture Blocks for Pole Barn Metal Siding - One Solution

That looks great. Because that's the way I'd do it and with the correct light fixtures![emoji3]

 

[Bretny]

Looks good. Im suprised they dont make a block like for for a standard R pannel. You called a supply house and not a big box store?

 

[GRivera]

That looks great. Because that's the way I'd do it and with the correct light fixtures![emoji3]

Thank you

Looks good. Im suprised they dont make a block like for for a standard R pannel. You called a supply house and not a big box store?

Thanks. Mainly searched on line and on here where others have said it's not produced.

 

[purediesel]

I've been looking for days on a nice clean solution to mounting gooseneck lights and this is the nicest I've found. Thank's for posting this as I will be doing the same. Can you post pictures to show the inside mounting? Also any progress so far? Lights ever get mounted? Wondering on what the light looks like at night being over the door. Thanks

 

[TheEquineFencer]

That looks great!

It gives me ideas for other uses for mounting/filling in gaps and such.

 

[GRivera]

Thank you- here’s a picture of the over-door light. I’ll get a pic of backside tomorrow.

 

[dylanholtgrave]

Light Fixture Blocks for Pole Barn Metal Siding - One Solution

Like many on here I haven't had luck locating a fixture block that works with metal siding so had to fabricate my own. I bought an 8' 1x6" piece of PVC trim board (actual size 3/4 x 5.5") and cut it into 7" lengths to make 5 fixture mounts. Then I ripped pieces of the same board to pad out the blocks with a 45 degree contour to accommodate the large ridges on the metal siding. I glued the pad out pieces longways to the back of the pads with Loctite Power Grab Ultimate adhesive - works with PVC.

For install, I added a 2x4 vertical backer studs to the interior, between purlins. I then screwed the blocks onto the siding with self tapping 3" exterior screws. I drilled a 1" hole through the block, metal siding and the backer board; and then surface mounted a pancake electrical box to each PVC block. The flanges on the goose neck lights I bought cover the pancake box so there was no need to recess the box. However, if could be done if needed as each mounting block has the pad behind it. I will fill the small gap between the fixture blocks and the siding with white silicone caulk to avoid any moisture issues. The lights are't installed yet but I attached link for a visual.

I think they turned out pretty well considering the raw materials.

I realize this sounds a bit confusing but the pics may bridge the gap.The lights are not yet installed.

Interested in making a set?

 

[Jayman17]

Nice solution to a common problem. Surprised no one has made these commercially available.

 

[mark flucke]

I made some years ago for mounting the aluminum arm on a HPS or MH yard light on the end of a pole barn, used a treated 2x6 -a rail/spacer on each side of the rib- worked perfectly-I REALLY like the pvc!!!

 

[rcsracing]

I'm currently in similar situation, looking to install lighting on my new building.

Is a pancake box screwed to a PVC/trex spacer OK, or when do I cross into weatherproof boxes (which I don't understand how the front seals) with much larger penetrations into the building? This solution above looks like I just need a hole for the romex in my siding.

Thanks!

 

[Lorink]

Light Fixture Blocks for Pole Barn Metal Siding - One Solution

Like many on here I haven't had luck locating a fixture block that works with metal siding so had to fabricate my own. I bought an 8' 1x6" piece of PVC trim board (actual size 3/4 x 5.5") and cut it into 7" lengths to make 5 fixture mounts. Then I ripped pieces of the same board to pad out the blocks with a 45 degree contour to accommodate the large ridges on the metal siding. I glued the pad out pieces longways to the back of the pads with Loctite Power Grab Ultimate adhesive - works with PVC.

For install, I added a 2x4 vertical backer studs to the interior, between purlins. I then screwed the blocks onto the siding with self tapping 3" exterior screws. I drilled a 1" hole through the block, metal siding and the backer board; and then surface mounted a pancake electrical box to each PVC block. The flanges on the goose neck lights I bought cover the pancake box so there was no need to recess the box. However, if could be done if needed as each mounting block has the pad behind it. I will fill the small gap between the fixture blocks and the siding with white silicone caulk to avoid any moisture issues. The lights are't installed yet but I attached link for a visual.

I think they turned out pretty well considering the raw materials.

I realize this sounds a bit confusing but the pics may bridge the gap.The lights are not yet installed.

Thanks G! I've got three I need to build!

 

[Lorink]

Thanks G! I've got three I need to build!

Any ideas on installing outside electric 110 outlets in the same siding?

 

[the_tool_man]

Thank you to the OP. This is the best idea I've found for mounting exterior light fixtures. I had a bunch of floodlights and some gooseneck lights to mount. I wanted them located in specific spots, centered over a door, or consistently positioned from a corner, etc. I used 1"x5.5" pvc trim board, cut into 11" lengths. I used a tablesaw with a dado blade to machine grooves the keyed to the metal siding.



Then I could take each piece, and with it held against the wall or soffit, mark where the center of the light needed to be. I used a cnc router to cut the outside circular profile and mill a pocket for a shallow junction box. But you could use a bandsaw, hole saw and handheld router to do the same thing.





I added a ring of 3/8" thick pvc to it afterwards because the light escutcheon was too shallow to hide the sides of the jbox. So if I were to do this again I'd probably laminate two layers of 3/4" thick material to start with, so I could make the jbox pocket deep enough to fully recess it. I finished it off with a round over bit in the router to ease the sharp edge. They turned out great.

 

[the_tool_man]

Lights installed today...

 

[Max]

I don’t have a metal building like that. But I have used PVC trim similarly to hide ethernet wiring going to my security cameras mounted on the outside of my house. A quick router cut on the underside makes room for the cable and the PVC is both paintable and immune to rot.