To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Lighting an old carport

rockford33

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
62
Location
Maryland
So, I was over at my mom's the other week, helping her go through some old stuff of my dad's in the carport (which has a partial garage door on front, don't ask....). In any case, there were a couple of things that she mentioned to me while I was there:
1. The security light on the front of the garage wasn't working anymore, and
2. She would like more light in the garage.

Now, for a bit of brief history. Me and/or my dad wired up the security light years ago. We just tapped into the single overhead incandescent light junction box and ran Romex along the rafters to the garage (stapling along the way) and attached the light. Later on, the light bulb was removed and a socket adapter was screwed in and two fluorescent shop lights were plugged in.

Now for my question. I want to fix all this poor workmanship (I admit, I was young and just "did" things) and make it right. Since the carport doesn't have any drywall ceiling, just exposed roof rafters and the roof above, what is the best (and code compliant way) to run new wiring? What I would like to do is replace the light base with a junction box, re-run new wiring and replace the security light on the front of the garage, and install a couple of outlets (on the rafters) to plug the shop lights into (and maybe add two more, so 4 total). Can the wiring all be run through pvc conduit strapped to the rafters? I believe there is only a black and white wire going to the light base (going on memory, but the house is 40 years old), not sure if there is a ground wire or not. The run to the security light also has me a little worried, as it will be going perpendicular to the rafters, so I either strap to the bottom and then turn up at some point to get behind the light, or drill through each rafter (not preferred to do for 40 year old rafters I would think).

Any thoughts, comments, and admonishments for my bad past work is appreciated.

Thanks,
Neil
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

caesar2001

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2012
Messages
74
Location
Livonia, MI
I would run steel or pvc schedule 40 conduit. Obviously pvc will be lighter to work with. I would strap the conduit on the rafters. You can get 90° bent PVC or could use flexible conduit or Type LB conduit fittings (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-3-4-in-Non-Metallic-Type-LB-Conduit-Body-E986E-CTN/100404084) for making corners. Since you are tackling this project, I would replace any existing wires with new. You may want to consider adding an outlet or two to the wall (if you don't already have some). Being a carport, I would install weatherproof boxes with GFCIs.

Good luck! I think we would all like to see before and after pictures.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
R

rockford33

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
62
Location
Maryland
Thanks for the replies guys. I have been doing a bit more research into this since my original post. My current plan of attack is:
1. Replace light receptacle in center of carport with junction box.
2. Run PVC conduit (I think NEC Code requires Schedule 80) to either side of garage to junction boxes. PVC to be strapped to rafters every 3 feet per code and within 3 feet of a junction box (again per code)
3. Run PVC conduit from junction boxes to light fixtures (3) and security light.
4. Hardwire everything with THHN/THWN wiring (14 gauge, I believe it is a 15 amp circuit).
5. Wire in a switch for the lights.

Right now, the entire garage is controlled by one switch inside the house and one in the garage itself. Since the security light is on this circuit, the switches are always in the "On" position and the 2 plug in lights have pull chains on them. Not sure if I can get hardwired light fixtures with pull chains (I don't recall coming across any, seems like only the plug ins have pull chains). This way I don't have to fool with GFCI outlets near the ceiling to meet code. I have read (on this forum and elsewhere) that fluorescent lights and GFCI outlets don't mix real well and tend to trip easily. I don't want my 71 year old mom having to go up on a ladder to reset a GFCI outlet if the light trips it (and then she would be in the dark doing it too....).

The only other wrinkle is that I am 99% sure it is aluminum wiring. But, I have researched that also and it seems like using AlumiConn connectors and pigtailing to copper is an acceptable method by the Consumer Product Safety Commission and UL. Another method is CopAlum, but this must be done by a licensed trained electrician (special tool) and all the web links I hit to find the list of electricians were broken...

Thanks,
Neil
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom