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Lighting Install Question - Gang Boxes?

Redbeard719

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Feb 8, 2017
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12
Hi All!

Long time reader, new poster. I have an electrical question I'm seeking advice on.

GJ got me hooked early and I recently bought 16 MaxLite 4' T8 Direct Wire LED light fixtures. I'm going to be installing these into my garages over the coming weeks by replacing current porcelain sockets in some locations and installing them new in other locations.

My question is - do I need to install gang boxes for each light fixture that is installed at a new location OR can I skip the gang boxes and run the wiring into the fixture and make the connection there instead? Each fixture has a knockout hole removed already to pass the electrical wiring into the fixture.

My next question is what are the code requirements regarding stapling the wiring to structure if I don't use a gang box? I recall reading that all wiring needed to be secured within 6" of the gang box.

I'm not opposed to installing gang boxes if needed but if it's not needed, I could save myself some time and effort. My garages are fully finished and insulated already, so these would be old work boxes. The light fixtures are too narrow (3 1/8"W) to install an circular or octagonal box and have it be covered by the light fixture.

Thank you!
 
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forAK

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No need for boxes. Just run them into the fixture. You should staple the wire within 8 inches of the fixture/box. At least that is how I was taught.
 
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Redbeard719

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Feb 8, 2017
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No need for boxes. Just run them into the fixture. You should staple the wire within 8 inches of the fixture/box. At least that is how I was taught.

Cool, thanks for your reply. It's helpful for sure.

Have you considered surface mount conduit?

I have, but I'd prefer to keep all the wiring out of sight and hidden. I have attic access above the garage area and I've been up there before to add another outlet for a retractable extension cord in the center stall. By saying my garage is finished, I mean finished! The drywall is taped and textured and already painted. I'll be repainting soon (before the lights go in). Hell, the builders even trimmed it out with full baseboards. It's almost like parking inside the house!
 

mm08822

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Use romex connectors through the top of each fixture into the attic. You can daisychain from fixture to fixture using the same knockout. Staple the cables within 12" of each fixture and at no less than 4.5' along the joists. Best to bore holes through joists now to run cable so if you ever put a floor in you are good to go.
 
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Muzzy

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I have, but I'd prefer to keep all the wiring out of sight and hidden. I have attic access above the garage area and I've been up there before to add another outlet for a retractable extension cord in the center stall. By saying my garage is finished, I mean finished! The drywall is taped and textured and already painted. I'll be repainting soon (before the lights go in). Hell, the builders even trimmed it out with full baseboards. It's almost like parking inside the house!

Gotcha. I misunderstood your initial post on how you would run the wire. Sounds like you got way better advice than mine anyway. :beer:
 
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Redbeard719

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Feb 8, 2017
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If your light fixtures don't have romex connectors (strain reliefs) built in, then you may have to drill/enlarge an entry point that will accept these:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gampak-10-Pack-3-8-in-NM-SE-Connectors/3152587

Great info, thank you.

Use romex connectors through the top of each fixture into the attic. You can daisychain from fixture to fixture using the same knockout. Staple the cables within 12" of each fixture and at no less than 4.5' along the joists. Best to bore holes through joists now to run cable so if you ever put a floor in you are good to go.

Awesome advice, thank you. To add on to that - you already led me to my next question. There's no issue with using one romex connector for the two separate strands of romex so I can daisychain? Several of the fixtures would need power in and power out to the next light.

And yes, I'll be boring through the joists to run the wire. Seems like the right way to do it.

Gotcha. I misunderstood your initial post on how you would run the wire. Sounds like you got way better advice than mine anyway. :beer:

No problem. I appreciate the idea and your response.
 

mm08822

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Rx cons can accomodate multiple cables. 2 14-2's shouldn't be a problem for most. Check what you buy with mfr online for approved cable combinations. I only do 2 max and no plastic junk. To each their own.
 

dbphelps

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Aug 22, 2013
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Well, I typed up this whole huge post about my setup since it is similar, but in this thread I will cut to the chase...

I did a very similar setup, added in lights to a fully finished garage (mine is 1/2" textured plaster over 3/4" drywall, moisture barrier, full insulation on all walls and ceiling) and was able to put up 14 4ft dual T8 fixtures and 9 of them are done with just a hole for the romex into a strain relief in the fixture.

Now my question is how the hell is anyone supposed to affix the wiring to the floor joists above (I have a master suite above my garage) within 8-12" and then every 4ft in a completely finished and insulated ceiling???

I mean even in electrical retrofits where an electrician will snake romex up a wall for new fans/fixtures and such, do they rip a hole in a finished wall/ceiling every 4ft to put a staple in?

I had no problem stapling the wires when I added dual outlets (luckily the sill-plate entrance was less than 4ft away), but even in some of those cases, if you install a single outlet/switch box how the heck are you supposed to staple the romex to the stud?

Also, why not use the black plastic romex strain reliefs? As long as you install them the right direction it isn't like the romex is going to pull out. And they are listed as well for that use.
 
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mm08822

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Well, I typed up this whole huge post about my setup since it is similar, but in this thread I will cut to the chase...

I did a very similar setup, added in lights to a fully finished garage (mine is 1/2" testured plaster over 3/4" drywall, moisture barrier, full insulation on all walls and ceiling) and was able to put up 14 4ft dual T8 fixtures and 9 of them are done with just a hole for the romex into a strain relief in the fixture.

Now my question is how the hell is anyone supposed to affix the wiring to the floor joists above (I have a master suite above my garage) within 8-12" and then every 4ft in a completely finished and insulated ceiling???

I mean even in electrical retrofits where an electrician will snake romex up a wall for new fans/fixtures and such, do they rip a hole in a finished wall/ceiling every 4ft to put a staple in?

I had no problem stapling the wires when I added dual outlets (luckily the sill-late entrance was less than 4ft away), but even in some of those cases, if you install a single outlet/switch box how the heck are you supposed to staple the romex to the stud?

Also, why not use the black plastic romex strain reliefs? As long as you install them the right direction it isn't like the romex is going to pull out. And they are listed as well for that use.

Chainsaws do a great job of removing flooring. If you don't own one, borrow one. Just drill a 3/4" hole through the sheetrock and flooring at each fixture location so you know where to cut the flooring from above. Staples are very important. Sledge hammers also work well for sheetrock. Problem solved. Staples fit everywhere then and you dont need to carry a little dinky hammer just for those silly staples.

I don't use the black plastic buttons b/c I don't like them.

What you are referring to is "old work" where the code permits fishing of cables in voids and stapling isn't required. When you do have access to those voids, you are supposed to properly route and secure the cables as typically done in "new work".
 

ww_big_al

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Parma, MI
Do it the easy way. Replace the porcelain fixtures with duplex outlets. Connect a cord to the light and plug it in.
 
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