Lightweight 1/2 inch drywall for ceiling?

[vavet]

Seems like the general consensus is that you need 5/8” drywall for ceilings. The logic is that the 5/8, though heavier than 1/2”, is stiffer, somit reduces sagging.

Now I see this
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gold-Bond-...8-ft-High-Strength-LITE-Drywall-Panel/3419438

A comment on this product page indicates that 1/2” lightweight drywall is acceptable for use on ceiling, presumably the lighter weight reduces the sagging.

What say you, the collective wisdom of GJ? Would you use this on 24 inch centers?

 

[thanasi]

if im not mistaken 5/8 is used for fire control, it slows down fire to the adjacent room or room above nothing to do about sag im sure others will chime in

 

[The Cobbler]

1/2" on 24" centers is used all the time with no sag

 

[naturalgas]

5/8” fire control. Attached to house 5/8 is code. My 36/40 detached garage I used 1/2” on ceiling for weight savings on trusses and 5/8” on walls for strength.


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[patrickoneal]

My ceiling joists are on 24" centers, so I didn't trust 1/2" drywall of any variety. It might be OK if all your screws are set perfectly. I went with 5/8" on the walls too, for durability.

If you don't already know, hang the ceiling first, then hang the sheets sideways on the walls, starting with the top of the walls. Doing it that way, the top edge of the wall sheets support the outside edges of the ceiling to further resist sagging.

 

[engineer2]

Check local building codes. It may dictate where 5/8 is required.

 

[MushCreek]

Watch for heavy applications of insulation on top of drywall ceilings, too. In our house, I have 16" of blown in cellulose. I cross-strapped my trusses with 1x4's on 12" centers, AND used 5/8" drywall.

 

[Musicinabottle]

You use 5/8 drywall on the lid if you have an upper story to prevent the spread of fire and 3 layers in a garage if there is an upper level, 3 layers of 5/8 on the garage wall if there is living space next door otherwise, you can use 1/2 but I wouldn't unless your framing is 16 inches.

 

[finn]

5/8” is only used to separate the living area from the garage here. Never heard of a requirement for multiple layers, so I suspect that is a local requirement in some places.

The local yards only carry the light weight sheets in 1/2”. Haven’t seen the old heavy 1/2” sheets in years.

Nobody uses anything but 16” centers for framing, with the occasional exception of basement walls and, of course, trusses. The high strength 1/2” light weight stuff is better for sag resistance than the old, heavy sheets.

 

[jetnow1]

Multiple layers are often required where I joists are used as they are lighter construction
and could burn threw faster, Multiple layers gives the fire dept more time/safety.

 

[yeldogt]

Since I'm always working with old building --- typically like to use 5/8 everywhere. On all new construction w/ sound insulation in the walls I'm sure 1/2 is fine. The 5/8 makes for a quieter house and with old walls it's easier with some glue and less fasteners to get a straight wall.

In some areas it only comes in green for bathrooms -- no issues using it everywhere

 

[PhysicsDude]

In my house (1977 construction, Dallas TX suburbs) has 1/2" drywall for the ceilings.

That lightweight stuff looks like a good choice for ceilings, I imagine it would prevent some sagging.

 

[James-W]

I can tell you for a fact, (at least where I live) if the span is more than 16 inches on center, then 5/8 inch drywall is required for a ceiling. Additionally, 5/8 inch drywall is required on the wall between the house and an attached garage. I know that because I was standing there with my buddy when the building inspector told us what was code for drywall. This may or may be how it is in other areas, but that is how it is where I live.

Most homes have trusses/rafters space 24 inches on center. Therefore, the drywall for the ceilings must be 5/8 inch. Whether someone puts up 1/2 inch on 24 inch center and doesn't have any sagging, makes no difference whatsoever. The issue is that 1/2 inch drywall on ceilings with 24 inch centers doesn't meet the building code. The house will never pass inspection and will not be deemed "livable". So if someone uses the 1/2 drywall on a ceiling where 5/8 was the code, and they don't get a permit and have it inspected, it might work out just fine . . . . . BUT . . . it still does not meet code.

 

[Lynden]

Georgia-Pacific makes 1/2-inch thick "Span 24 Ceiling Board" which is approved for 24-inch joist spacing. I used it in my house and have not had any sagging.

https://www.buildgp.com/toughrock-cd-ceiling-board

"This standard weight gypsum ceiling board has a dimensionally stable, noncombustible gypsum core (as described and tested in accordance with ASTM E136). The core has been reinforced with glass fibers, increasing strength and sag resistance."

G-P also makes 1/2-inch thick "Fireguard 45" which is approved for 24-inch joist spacing.

https://www.buildgp.com/toughrock-fireguard45-gypsum-board

 

[vavet]

I should've been more descriptive in my original post. This is for a detached garage, so the only walls are exterior walls. There is not livable space on the other side of the wall.

 

[pattenp]

I used 1/2" drywall on my detached garage ceilings with 24" centers and it's insulated and it's been up ten years and I don't see any sagging. Mine is the old original style and I glued and screwed it.

 

[6768rogues]

I would use what you specified, light weight high strength 1/2". If you have to separate it from living space, you need to use a listed fire resistant system, not just toss on layers of whatever.

 

[lakelandcat]

The illusion of "sagging" usually comes from ceiling joists that are crowned the wrong way. Run a string line on your ceiling joists and adjust according. The only time I could say a ceiling was sagging was when there was a leak and the rock got wet. Sometimes waves can be worked out with a 18" knife. People don't like popcorn ceilings anymore but popcorn was good at hiding small waves. Its a detached garage, don't worry unless its going to be a game room or man cave xtra nice. 1/2" is lighter, if your going to do it yourself thats something to think about.

 

[firebirdparts]

Nobody wants to use 5/8. People use it where required by law.

 

[03.]

Whilst it has nothing to do with the original post, in Australia we use 10mm (3/8") for our ceilings here, have done since the early '90s. We do normally have joist centres at 18" though.

 

[yeldogt]

Nobody wants to use 5/8. People use it where required by law.

all the better builders around me use it?

 

[pcmeiners]

"Nobody wants to use 5/8. People use it where required by law."

5/8" is the only thickness I will use for walls/ceilings ,1/2" *****. 5/8" will show less beam deviation especially on ceilings, is easier to compound, will not sag, shows less nail/screws in humid circumstances, fire retardant, etc etc. What is so hard about using it ? **** I use to hang it without help or a lifter.

 

[ReggieR]

If its a garage use 5/8 green board or........ just pegboard the walls. My shop 100 years ago was 100% white pegboard walls.Man it was bright and I had every thingamabob close to every machine instead of walking 30 feet 1000 times a day to get things from the stacks.
I only work with steel stud walls and metal trusses. It's the only simple way to have things perfect and fast.Cheap too. Go in 16"-18" centers and you got some serious tough straight wall . Just don't neglect backers for any future plans....altho a screwed on steel studs it takes just a minute with a razor knife and screw gun to ****** a sheet of drywall.....not so with wood and drywall nails.

 

[MushCreek]

I used steel studs in my house because lumber was so crappy. Perfectly straight, and a bit cheaper than lumber, although a bit more labor (I did my own). I bought the heavier gage ones from a drywall supplier, not the cheap **** from the big box stores. Four years in, and not a nail pop anywhere.