rattle_snake
Well-known member
Five casters. That is not a power-of-two number, so I'm unable to further process.
Above 1200 Sq/FT LilScorpion’s Fab Space
- Thread starter lilscorpion
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Horror Business
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2014
- Messages
- 504
I’m going with one at each corner of the powder coating oven, plus a wheelie bar for it!
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
For an upcoming project. Any guesses? Should be easy…
good one!
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Want to see if I can build a stool (I don’t want a back) that’s like this but under $200. Slightly different, maybe better.
KwikFab
Well-known member
Want to see if I can build a stool (I don’t want a back) that’s like this but under $200. Slightly different, maybe better.
If there's any advice I can share it's this; ensure you stick with leather at 2.6oz sq. ft. or as close to.
Heavier than that, and it'll take years to break in and will not stretch to allow the cushion to do its job.
Too thin, and it won't be as durable.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Very nice!! Did you do the stichery (it’s obviously not a word…what’s the right word)? By hand or machine?If there's any advice I can share it's this; ensure you stick with leather at 2.6oz sq. ft. or as close to.
Heavier than that, and it'll take years to break in and will not stretch to allow the cushion to do its job.
Too thin, and it won't be as durable.
KwikFab
Well-known member
Everything done at home minus the actual upholstery itself.
I had that done by a local shop with leather I provided as well as foam.
Panels shown there for the stool and backrest are ash hardwood, and like you said, I too wanted to make it better.
I ordered a backrest from Vyper only to be disappointed with what felt like lightweight particle or plywood. The pad itself wasn't uncomfortable, but it felt really cheap and undersized at 6" x 8".
The upgrades (compared to Vyper) were -
The same SCC casters you opted to use (I hear Vyper casters fail)
Real leather instead of vinyl
M8 hardware used for fixing the stool mount/seat as opposed to 1/4" - 20
A slightly larger backrest at 7" x 9" over their 6" x 8"
Stronger seat and backrest components
I'm just an at-home DIYer and self-taught in the world of everything, but I'd be happy to share my DXF files I created for the project.
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I think milling pockets for threaded inserts in the foot ring so it could be that larger diameter would be really cool. Nice work!If there's any advice I can share it's this; ensure you stick with leather at 2.6oz sq. ft. or as close to.
Heavier than that, and it'll take years to break in and will not stretch to allow the cushion to do its job.
Too thin, and it won't be as durable.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Interesting, we think alike. I too noticed I could order the viper backrest and cushions and almost did. Glad I didn’t now that you shared. It sure I’ll make the cushions myself, trying to find ‘em tho
KwikFab
Well-known member
The backrest I had purchased, measuring only 6" x 8".
Again, it didn't feel uncomfortable but it felt cheap compared to my backrest both in terms of feel and weight. Funny thing is, it took a couple of weeks just for Vyper to refund me after I sent it back to them with the comment "feels cheap"
The rear looked even worse with the cheap black plastic they screwed onto it.
When I got mine together, I let the upholstery shop choose the padding for my backrest as I realized it doesn't matter as much as the seat cushion does.
Here's the leather I used for the backrest and seat as well as the foam for the seat - 16 sq ft (with plenty to spare) and a 13.50" diameter qualux foam.
Since I'm not a woodworker (limited tools and space), I had a buddy cut, sand, and seal up some ash hardwood for me.
My only gripe is that I had made the backrest mounting for 1/4" - 20 to install the Vyper backrest which meant going with that size hardware for mine as well.
I would've much preferred to use M8 all around as I had bought a whole 25 pack.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Way nicer than I was planning on mine but now I’m thinking I’ll likely make two different versions - a cheaper quick seat to figure out the CAD and metal fab and a nicer o w like yours with the works (hardwood, hand chosen leather, etc).The backrest I had purchased, measuring only 6" x 8".
Again, it didn't feel uncomfortable but it felt cheap compared to my backrest both in terms of feel and weight. Funny thing is, it took a couple of weeks just for Vyper to refund me after I sent it back to them with the comment "feels cheap"
The rear looked even worse with the cheap black plastic they screwed onto it.
When I got mine together, I let the upholstery shop choose the padding for my backrest as I realized it doesn't matter as much as the seat cushion does.
Here's the leather I used for the backrest and seat as well as the foam for the seat - 16 sq ft (with plenty to spare) and a 13.50" diameter qualux foam.
Since I'm not a woodworker (limited tools and space), I had a buddy cut, sand, and seal up some ash hardwood for me.
My only gripe is that I had made the backrest mounting for 1/4" - 20 to install the Vyper backrest which meant going with that size hardware for mine as well.
I would've much preferred to use M8 all around as I had bought a whole 25 pack.
How did you go about finding someone to make the leather cushions?
KwikFab
Well-known member
Apologies in advance for the long post
I like to add my thought process as to "how I got there".
As a fabricator, I'll easily knock out a custom crossmember, fix a trailer, build a rack, etc.
When I looked into upholstery, specifically how-to videos on Youtube, unless I had a sewing machine the only DIY jobs I could muster would be to simply pull the leather over said cushion and staple it to the backside.
Because I have a bad back along with sciatica, I feared I would lose much of my cushion's dampening as well as introduce a pressure point towards the edge of the stool for my thighs. I had my friend cut the wood mount to 13.25" to allow for the cushion to sit "over" the wood on compression.
But more importantly, I wanted a "band" stitched around the entire diameter to maintain the cushion's shape whether it was compressed or not.
So, I looked around for an upholstery shop that does vehicle seating, sofas, and that sort of thing because like the fabrication example above, this would be easy work for them.
I took my wood parts (labeled with painters tape for top/bottom), my leather, and my seat bottom cushion. I asked for something medium-firm for the backrest, and they told me to come back in about 2 weeks.
Total cost was $100 (plus the $30 tip I added).
I even like that they did the cloth piece at the bottom just like furniture you see everywhere else, another expense I would accrue had I done this all myself. It's such little things that add to the overall professional and expensive look.
Also took this one out of Vyper's own playbook, but also cause we use it on vehicles when we're trimming exterior parts as well.
Bought some weather trim made for vehicles and installed it on the spine of my stool, protecting it and anything else from the sharp metal edge.
And the fact that I labeled the stool cushion as such, meant they placed the stitching towards the rear away from public view.
KwikFab
Well-known member
Just seeing some stuff posted here (browsed a few pages), a stool should take you a few minutes.
Only took a few minutes to design mine and I have way less tools and knowledge than your thread shows! I just used the leadscrew length to achieve my sitting height goal.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Slow progress this weekend. Did a little wiring but focused primarily on building the oven door.
I started with staring at the oven I hacked together a few years ago hoping for inspiration. Tho I know windows are horrible insulators, I do like being able to see the parts during the curing process. Being able to do so is particularly helpful when trying to pull a part just after flow out (when the powder turns to a liquid) when applying multiple coats. So I’m gonna have windows.
The windows are double pain. After some research, the barrier between the two pieces of glass are what helps retain the heat not the thickness of the glass.
An important design consideration is making sure this space is vented into the door cavity to help let the pressure equalize. Without the glass will likely break. I think I installed this bezel up side down when I out it all back tighter. Usually they’re on the top.
Knowing I’ll need to reinforce the doors much better where the hinges will be, I decided to design the door in CA first. Went back and forth between the oven and computer probably a couple dozen times working through the layout to get to this point.
I debated multiple times on the number of windows and decided that’s having a near full view of a 6+ foot part would be ideal so I went with 2 each if which will be ~13”w x 20”h.
With a plan, time to build. Started with the frame itself. Using the fixture table the same way I did with the rest of the oven.
Then built the little boxes that go above, between, and below the windows. Left the fixtures in place for the door itself and set up another set inside to speed this along. Makes square really easy.
Clamping, drilling, and riveting is where the time is at.
Then merge it all into one. Looks the same as in the CAD drawing, which is good.
Spent the rest of the day modeling the skins and braces in CAD. Should be ready to cut parts this week.
I started with staring at the oven I hacked together a few years ago hoping for inspiration. Tho I know windows are horrible insulators, I do like being able to see the parts during the curing process. Being able to do so is particularly helpful when trying to pull a part just after flow out (when the powder turns to a liquid) when applying multiple coats. So I’m gonna have windows.
The windows are double pain. After some research, the barrier between the two pieces of glass are what helps retain the heat not the thickness of the glass.
An important design consideration is making sure this space is vented into the door cavity to help let the pressure equalize. Without the glass will likely break. I think I installed this bezel up side down when I out it all back tighter. Usually they’re on the top.
Knowing I’ll need to reinforce the doors much better where the hinges will be, I decided to design the door in CA first. Went back and forth between the oven and computer probably a couple dozen times working through the layout to get to this point.
I debated multiple times on the number of windows and decided that’s having a near full view of a 6+ foot part would be ideal so I went with 2 each if which will be ~13”w x 20”h.
With a plan, time to build. Started with the frame itself. Using the fixture table the same way I did with the rest of the oven.
Then built the little boxes that go above, between, and below the windows. Left the fixtures in place for the door itself and set up another set inside to speed this along. Makes square really easy.
Clamping, drilling, and riveting is where the time is at.
Then merge it all into one. Looks the same as in the CAD drawing, which is good.
Spent the rest of the day modeling the skins and braces in CAD. Should be ready to cut parts this week.
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
What did you use (links if handy) for the screw seat height? I think I need to make some of these for my shop. My guys would appreciate it when sitting at the iron worker all day.
Great execution on your stool!
KwikFab
Well-known member
Appreciate the kind words!
Here are some links -
ACME rod, I cut down to 18" in length - https://www.mcmaster.com/98935A921/
ACME nuts, for inside the center section as well as the stool cushion mount - https://www.mcmaster.com/94815A110/
ACME handle, in case you want this for locking your stool height (or just use a nut from the above link) - https://www.mcmaster.com/92428A130/
There is another ACME handle you can use (different style) but it only works for a 4:1 ACME rod, not the 5:1 ACME I used and linked above
csp
Well-known member
I know two guys in the Franktown area that could likely build your chair cushions. One does automotive upholstery and the other does furniture. Both are usually pretty backlogged but do great work.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Spent the first part of today getting the back gauged finalized on the Titan. Other than a few self-induced issues, the setup went smoothly. Now I’ll have the befits if repeatable bends without eye strain.
Back on the door for the Powder Coating Oven which was the primary reason the back gauge was so important. Need a set of skins for the outside of the door. With the model in CAD this was fairly straight forward.
And cut them on the plasma.
Been thinking about how to reinforce the door so it’s not all sloppy the entire time I was building the oven box. I’ve decided I’ll do it barn door style. The braces will be riveted through the skins and into all of the internal studs. Total rivet count for the outside alone is over 600!
You notice that the drawing above has the bracing planning for hinges on the right…turns out I had it backwards in CAD all long and ended up switching the hinge location. I laid out all the skins making sure that they were tight enough into each other before breaking them on the press.
The back gauge allowed me to get these larger parts bent square and square to each other. The width of the door is about max capacity if the brake.
The non-hinge side of the door ended up almost perfectly except the lower brace. Doesn’t matter, I had already planned on trimming them to length to fit edge caps for the non-hinge side.
With the edge caps installed…
Some mounts for the door handle.
And an arial view of the door with all bracing. The door is much more rigid with the bracing and the hinges now have a solid way to attach. Next are the window sills which will help even more.
Back on the door for the Powder Coating Oven which was the primary reason the back gauge was so important. Need a set of skins for the outside of the door. With the model in CAD this was fairly straight forward.
And cut them on the plasma.
Been thinking about how to reinforce the door so it’s not all sloppy the entire time I was building the oven box. I’ve decided I’ll do it barn door style. The braces will be riveted through the skins and into all of the internal studs. Total rivet count for the outside alone is over 600!
You notice that the drawing above has the bracing planning for hinges on the right…turns out I had it backwards in CAD all long and ended up switching the hinge location. I laid out all the skins making sure that they were tight enough into each other before breaking them on the press.
The back gauge allowed me to get these larger parts bent square and square to each other. The width of the door is about max capacity if the brake.
The non-hinge side of the door ended up almost perfectly except the lower brace. Doesn’t matter, I had already planned on trimming them to length to fit edge caps for the non-hinge side.
With the edge caps installed…
Some mounts for the door handle.
And an arial view of the door with all bracing. The door is much more rigid with the bracing and the hinges now have a solid way to attach. Next are the window sills which will help even more.
Jayman17
Well-known member
^^^^ What he said. That is some top level work you are turning out there. Very impressive!
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Machines help speed things up a lot and significantly help improve the finish and the end product. These new machines are tremendous improvements for the home shop guy over what was available 15-20 years ago and, relatively speaking, much less expensive. Make me look good is what I’m sayin!
Be that as it may, you still have a vision of what you want to achieve and the know-how to put it in place. While tools don't make the craftsman, good tools certainly do help!
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Well said. I guess one could say “I have a very particular set of skills, skills I have acquired over a very long career…”
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Last night I worked on prepping for the mini doors by making the sills. Fairly basic part on the plasma table, 16ga ore-drilled for rivets..
Then a flange to allow attachment of the inner panel later.
Counter bend to create the flange that the tadpole seal will mount to
Another counter bend to create the inset of the door itself
And a final of the top/bottom -
How it’ll look.
Made a few adjustments to the outer flange alone but otherwise no changes.
The corners will be sealed with just a little high-temp silicone.
Awaiting more rivets, then I’ll flip the door and do the inner skins. These flanges will also add to the rigidity if the door.
Then a flange to allow attachment of the inner panel later.
Counter bend to create the flange that the tadpole seal will mount to
Another counter bend to create the inset of the door itself
And a final of the top/bottom -
How it’ll look.
Made a few adjustments to the outer flange alone but otherwise no changes.
The corners will be sealed with just a little high-temp silicone.
Awaiting more rivets, then I’ll flip the door and do the inner skins. These flanges will also add to the rigidity if the door.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Well that’s freakin neat…I found this today.
It generated gridfinity boxes from snapshots.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Still chipping away on the oven but thought I’d share another project I got running I parallel - tool walls. Not necessarily innovative, but they are extremely functional. The intent is to make tools in use frequently more easily accessible. So accessible, and located in the work stations I’ll be using them in, that I will put them back after every use. As with any solution, I need a wall board. I chose to make mine out of 14ga.
Holes are 2” on center. Having a drill head on the plasma enables me to get them exactly 2” apart.
I settled on making them wide enough that I can get 4 of them out of a 48 x 48 sheet.
Rested them against the wall so I could see what they’ll look like.
I have this really nice looking semi-metallic medical grey metallic I think I’ll powder coat them. For a distance they’ll probably look about the same.
Now for a way to mount them. I’m going to stand them off the wall 1” so my conduit can hide behind them so the mount needs th be about 1” as well. Also out of 14ga.
Stuff is strong when it has a few bends in it. To think the thinnest I used to muck with years ago was 1/8”.
They go up kinda fast. I can use the panels for disturbing them in place and then catch a screw to and bottom as a stud goes by. Cut some simple fixtures to get the spacing between the panels perfectly 2” as well. This will allow me to hang organizers between panels if that’s how it spacing ends up.
Not to make some organizers to hang on them…
Holes are 2” on center. Having a drill head on the plasma enables me to get them exactly 2” apart.
I settled on making them wide enough that I can get 4 of them out of a 48 x 48 sheet.
Rested them against the wall so I could see what they’ll look like.
I have this really nice looking semi-metallic medical grey metallic I think I’ll powder coat them. For a distance they’ll probably look about the same.
Now for a way to mount them. I’m going to stand them off the wall 1” so my conduit can hide behind them so the mount needs th be about 1” as well. Also out of 14ga.
Stuff is strong when it has a few bends in it. To think the thinnest I used to muck with years ago was 1/8”.
They go up kinda fast. I can use the panels for disturbing them in place and then catch a screw to and bottom as a stud goes by. Cut some simple fixtures to get the spacing between the panels perfectly 2” as well. This will allow me to hang organizers between panels if that’s how it spacing ends up.
Not to make some organizers to hang on them…
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Rivnuts in every hole...121 per panel, ~6 panels on either long wall. It's a **** load of rivnuts. What's crazy is I'm learning I might use a couple dozen per panel at most and that's with nesting tools very tightly. If you zoom in on the pic above, there's some that have rivnuts and some that haven't been done yet. It's not too bad, I can do a panel in about 30 minutes.
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OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Spent some time building some organizers for the garage. Here's a glove box holder. Knocked off Harbor Freights but made mine out of 14ga instead of the 16ga they used. Each of the "fingers" has a little 25* bend at the tips to prevent the fingers from snagging on the glove box when you pull it out. Same feature on the HF box.
Turned out...the same. 'Cept now I can powder coat them any color I want.
And make as man as I want. the HF units are only $13 so it's not like I'm saving mad money.
Also made some grinder hangers for the Milwaukee units I have.
And hearing protection holder
Allen Wrench holder
Sure Shot holders
Impact gun racks
Turned out...the same. 'Cept now I can powder coat them any color I want.
And make as man as I want. the HF units are only $13 so it's not like I'm saving mad money.
Also made some grinder hangers for the Milwaukee units I have.
And hearing protection holder
Allen Wrench holder
Sure Shot holders
Impact gun racks
Attachments
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OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
I’ve gotten better at cleaning the panels as well. Previously, I was using a flapper disc front and back, and though it was fast, it wasn’t pretty. Now use a flapper only on the back and a deep burning cutter on the front. It takes only a little longer, but now the panels look almost perfect.
I spent a few hours late this evening getting the rest of the panels prepped so that I can get them formed tomorrow and then get them installed. I’m kind of in a hurry because next weekend I promised the Mrs. that I would get back after the house projects and I really want the garage to be as organized as possible so I don’t have to pace around looking for stuff. Difficult to see it here, but that’s the material for six panels which should be enough to do a primary wall.
I spent a few hours late this evening getting the rest of the panels prepped so that I can get them formed tomorrow and then get them installed. I’m kind of in a hurry because next weekend I promised the Mrs. that I would get back after the house projects and I really want the garage to be as organized as possible so I don’t have to pace around looking for stuff. Difficult to see it here, but that’s the material for six panels which should be enough to do a primary wall.
moab11
Well-known member
That's a lot of rivnuts, but I love the idea!!! So adjustable and versatile!
What are you using to install the rivnuts? Doing so many of them, I'm guessing you have found a good reliable tool.
What are you using to install the rivnuts? Doing so many of them, I'm guessing you have found a good reliable tool.
Out-F'ing-StandingSpent some time building some organizers for the garage. Here's a glove box holder. Knocked off Harbor Freights but made mine out of 14ga instead of the 16ga they used. Each of the "fingers" has a little 25* bend at the tips to prevent the fingers from snagging on the glove box when you pull it out. Same feature on the HF box.
Turned out...the same. 'Cept now I can powder coat them any color I want.
And make as man as I want. the HF units are only $13 so it's not like I'm saving mad money.
Also made some grinder hangers for the Milwaukee units I have.
And hearing protection holder
Allen Wrench holder
Sure Shot holders
Impact gun tacks
Love the wall panels! I'm also interested in the rivnut gear you're using...I've got probably 10 of the Wall Control brand metal panels and growing frustrated with them. Have though about putting rivnuts in the pegboard type holes, but leaning to just pull them off and replace with 1/2" or 3/4" prefinished plywood and then not worry about where I screw things.
The accy's for the wall panels look awesome and looks like you've got the CAD side figured out pretty well
The accy's for the wall panels look awesome and looks like you've got the CAD side figured out pretty well
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
I’m using his tool I got off of Amazon on the recommendation of @sakurama. Bought the 10-24 mandrel for it and that’s what I’m inserting into all the holes.
Works very well once you get the hang of it. I’ve found it’s the sound of the gun that helps me know what tight is. The mandrels are just grade 8-ish bolts so they can get buggered up threads likely due to the friction of inserting the rivnuts so swap out a new one after 80 or so and occasionally need to chase the threads with a die. Once I get into the rhythm I can go fairly quickly.
I find drilling the holes is more work and easier to screw up than inserting the rivnuts. Even after the CNC table drills them I have to chase them all with a hand drill. Not sure I’d want to drill them all by hand. That said, wood pegboard would be even less desirable. Had it years ago and the organizers ****. Maybe there’s better ones now tho
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WOW!Spent some time building some organizers for the garage. Here's a glove box holder. Knocked off Harbor Freights but made mine out of 14ga instead of the 16ga they used. Each of the "fingers" has a little 25* bend at the tips to prevent the fingers from snagging on the glove box when you pull it out. Same feature on the HF box.
Turned out...the same. 'Cept now I can powder coat them any color I want.
And make as man as I want. the HF units are only $13 so it's not like I'm saving mad money.
Also made some grinder hangers for the Milwaukee units I have.
And hearing protection holder
Allen Wrench holder
Sure Shot holders
Impact gun racks
Note to mods: We need a “Holy ****“ icon
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Meant to comment: yes, think I’ve got it down fairly well. I’m to the point where the part I model and the part I’m holding in my hand are almost identical. The plasma table and press brake could be dialed in just a bit more but it’s so damn close I’d rather just make some parts at this point…
mercracing
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2015
- Messages
- 156
It’s gotta be a great feeling to be this far!
rattle_snake
Well-known member
taking more and more things to a higher level concurrently. Quite impressive. Probably a clinical name for it.
csp
Well-known member
Wow that panel is nothing like I had envisioned when you were telling me about it. I was picturing a metal pegboard.
Such a cool idea!
Such a cool idea!