Above 1200 Sq/FT LilScorpion’s Fab Space

[lilscorpion]

Had to do some unnatural stacking of stuff to get the mag drill up in a position where it can cut the holes. It almost felt like a stupid human trick.



I'll have to figure out how i'll get the nuts on those two bolts in a bit. Couple of options but the leading one is to drill holes thru the bottom so I can get a socket up in there. I'll get to it later. The lower pedestal plate locates the pedestal riser tubing.



I'll end up welding the pedestal as an assembly on the fixture table but I'm mocking it up so I can check out the height.



The top has breaks in it to add to it's ability to support the top which will also be 1/4" thick and somewhat heavy considering. The square bolt pattern is what will hold the top to the pedestal.



Working height will be 39 1/4" from the floor to table top.



The ToDo list for tomorrow:

• Figure out where the remainder of fasteners need to be for future stuff (hydraulic pump, etc) and drill the holes while I can still get the parts in the vises on the mill
• then Weld the pedestal up
• Finalize the table top design
• Cut the tabletop, countersink, attach

 

[SilverJimmy]

This is turning out very nicely. My poor copy will probably look like I used a dull hacksaw and a buzz box to put it together, but I hope it will work the same, just crudely!

 

[lilscorpion]

This is turning out very nicely. My poor copy will probably look like I used a dull hacksaw and a buzz box to put it together, but I hope it will work the same, just crudely!

When it’s a hobby it’s all practice, time, and patience.

 

[lilscorpion]

Got after it early, need to get the bender cart done so I can get started on the paint booth's intake filter wall. Started with laying out the legs and pedestal post for accessory holes (future modifications/projects). Lets will have a holder/organizer for the various follow-blocks, pins, etc.



these were thru-drilled so holes would line up on all sides. This will allow me to use rivnuts or thru-bolts depending on how heavy the attachment(s) will be...probably fairly, the follow blocks are solid aluminum and pins solid steel.



The pedestal post will need provisions for a future electric hydraulic pump in the back and a rack for dies in the front.



Fairly simple, six holes 2 3/4" apart starting at 7" off the base plate.



With the pedestal done, it's time to weld on the base and top plates. First with the base plate. set up a fixture so I could clamp the plate to ensure a perfect 90*.



To reduce distortion I welded one side at a time with the welder turned up for 1/4".



Final weld was the bottom. At this point it's square enough so I just clamped it to the table for the last weld.



Now to weld on the top plate. Don't want this one to taco either so I came up with some creative fixturing and let it cool to room temperature after each weld.



Needed to thru-drill the rear base plate holes. This is the first time using the mag drill with the new (to me) NOS jacob's chucks. I was impressed how well the 1/2" drill bit cut thru double 3/16 steel. Didn't even seem like it was working.



I've been looking forward to this step all week. Time to get the casters on. Rears first, then fronts.

 

[lilscorpion]

Looks like a dang hotrod...



Dropped it down to the floor and bolted on the pedestal and the OEM top. The front legs pivot in and out of position so easily it's ridiculous. They be even easier once there's more weigth on them. This top looks kinda silly, I'll use it temporarily for the bends I need to do and make the new (bigger) one later. It works, It's got 20-something years on it...



Gave it a spin around the shop. It can actually do a 2pt turn here between the plasma table, computer, and the welding table because the cylinder is just taller than the welding table and the extra-large casters actually allow the base to glide above the feet of the plasma table computer stand's feet.



It has about 10" to spare going between the plasma table and the knee mill. Fits easily.



For now, I'm going to park it here. It may live here in the future once all this stuff leaning against the lathe gets put away. I would be perfectly out of the way.



Thanks for following along, this one was a fun project. More to come in the future.

 

[loganb]

Stellar work and thanks for bringing us along again!

 

[larry4406]

Nice fab!

At the rear of the cart, are the ends for future outriggers that fold vertically for transport and pin horizontal for leverage while working?

 

[lilscorpion]

Nice fab!

At the rear of the cart, are the ends for future outriggers that fold vertically for transport and pin horizontal for leverage while working?

Yes. They’ll fold down and have adjustable machine feet on them that, with an impact or drill, will put pressure into the floor to make the table have more lateral stability when bending long pieces of tubing.

 

[Graham08]

Nice work on the stand! I didn't grasp the outrigger concept when I saw the first post on my phone. After more posts and seeing it on a bigger screen it all makes sense. I am envious of your CNC plasma and press brake capabilities.

Your shop is very nice. How do you manage the mess generated by the plasma? I've heard they're very dirty and tend to deposit a layer of metal dust on everything. I could see myself owning one, but on the other hand I don't want to deal with the mess it would create.

 

[northern33]

Just stumbled on this thread. Wow! Definitely some inspiration to get back to my shop and get some organization done now that I am home more often. You’ve got some mad skills and amazing vision on projects.

 

[lilscorpion]

Nice work on the stand! I didn't grasp the outrigger concept when I saw the first post on my phone. After more posts and seeing it on a bigger screen it all makes sense. I am envious of your CNC plasma and press brake capabilities.

Your shop is very nice. How do you manage the mess generated by the plasma? I've heard they're very dirty and tend to deposit a layer of metal dust on everything. I could see myself owning one, but on the other hand I don't want to deal with the mess it would create.

Thanks. The press brake and plasma table together are an amazing combination once you’re able to model (where the magic really happens). The largest time on any project is now in design and it’s reduced so much time and material waste as well. I’d bet that 75% of the time my first part is good enough to go ahead and use. When making parts by hand so much time was lost when I hadn’t accounted for something after putting so much time into it…

My first two plasma tables used a downdraft table to exhaust fumes, smoke, etc. it worked sorta well. This CNC has a water table which works so much better AND I have twin 1200 CFM exhaust fans I turn on while I’m cutting. It works very well for hobby cutting, probably not well enough for cutting all day.

Just stumbled on this thread. Wow! Definitely some inspiration to get back to my shop and get some organization done now that I am home more often. You’ve got some mad skills and amazing vision on projects.

Thank you. I’ve always been able to work thru ideas and designs in my head as long as I can remember. It’s a gift to some extent and a curse. I can’t sleep much.

 

[cccoltsicehockey]

Love the detailed build pictures. Stand came out great. What color does it get powder coated?

 

[lilscorpion]

Love the detailed build pictures. Stand came out great. What color does it get powder coated?

I’m using speedway grey (medium dark grey with light metal flake) in all the drawer slides and eventually the rivnut walls. I like it because it’s slightly darker than natural steel which feels fitting for a shop like mine. I was thinking of using it as well for all my shop furniture and possibly machines. I also have a few lighter greys picked out…so I’m kinda uncertain at the moment. speedway grey is in the lead tho

 

[Bessy]

I’m using speedway grey (medium dark grey with light metal flake) in all the drawer slides and eventually the rivnut walls. I like it because it’s slightly darker than natural steel which feels fitting for a shop like mine. I was thinking of using it as well for all my shop furniture and possibly machines. I also have a few lighter greys picked out…so I’m kinda uncertain at the moment. speedway grey is in the lead tho

Am I to understand that you also powder coat all of your drawer slides?! I already knew your work was next level, but this is a turn-on!

 

[lilscorpion]

Am I to understand that you also powder coat all of your drawer slides?! I already knew your work was next level, but this is a turn-on!

Yes. About 90-ish of my ~150 drawers in my shop and garage have drawer pulls on them and a couple of weeks ago I sand blasted and powder coated all of them. Bare metal was ok but when they’re coated they just feel and look more finished.

Go big.

 

[Bessy]

Oh you mean the pulls. I did see that.

I thought you had disassembled each of the drawer slides and coated them as well. I was trying to imagine just how much work that would have been!

 

[lilscorpion]

Oh you mean the pulls. I did see that.

I thought you had disassembled each of the drawer slides and coated them as well. I was trying to imagine just how much work that would have been!

I read that way to fast!! No way, painting the slides would not only be silly, it would probably not work. Boy would I be off to even try (curious).

 

[Bessy]

I read that way to fast!! No way, painting the slides would not only be silly, it would probably not work. Boy would I be off to even try (curious).

It would probably look freaking awesome if it did work. But really, you probably shouldn't even bother.

 

[lilscorpion]

Spent time working on the paint booth this weekend. Current focus is on the filter walls. The
Booth will be a cross draft booth which has a fan pushing air into the booth with an exhaust fan pulling air out. On the intake side there will be 8 tacky filters which has the job of removing dust from the air that comes into the booth and then 4 filters on the exhaust side that will trap the over spray from inside the booth. I came up with a modular design that can grow should I need more filters on either end. This is the filter box that will attach to the front and rear of the booth.



Each box has four z-channels that fit tighter creating the cavity that the filter sits in.



The boxes nest into each other so multiples can be added to the side, top, or bottom.



The channels will be attached to the frame of the booth with machine screws and rivnuts on either end and the ones mid piece is where the filter retainers will grab on to. These are essentially clamps that will hold on to the outer 3/4” of the filter all the way around.



The Dolan at the moment is to run 4 wide and 2
High.



Managed to get the full fourmicked up even though the table wasn’t long enough.



Each filter box is exactly 20 1/16” wide and tall. Even though I modeled it in cad first I was still impressed that I was able to fit exactly 4 filters across in the back wall. Feels good to nail the length. What you’re looking at is the end of the last filter lining up with where the side post of the rear wall will be.



With the plan conformed, i went into production mode cutting as many as I need if each for the intake and exhaust side. All parts for the filter boxes will be cut out if 14ga



Fortunately cutting many of each size helps keep nesting fairly simple.



I try to clean each of the parts as the machine cuts them and I can keep up for the most parts.

 

[lilscorpion]

As stacks accumulate, I let the machine cut and do some bending.



Once I get into a rhythm bending is actually fairly quick.



Once I was don’t with the filter box parts I switched to cutting the corner brackets. Made a few adjustments in the bend file and made a few.



Is surprising how weak these are individually but exceptionally strong once the start working together. This is just a Small mock up to make sure the brackets will work. Getting closer.

 

[larry4406]

Insanity in motion!

I love it!

 

[M.Brane]

Master of fab.

 

[lilscorpion]

Most of the work this weekend was prepping for the paint booth. Cut, bend, and repeat over and over again. In the middle I had to take a break so I knocked out one of the wall organizers that I had been planning on.

The goal is to figure out how to have a healthy mix of drawer organization and easily accessible tools on the wall. Doing so speeds up fabrication considerably. This next organizer is for air tools. These little chamfer tools have become a staple in my projects.



The ability to make a sheet metal part look machined is amazing. Wanted something simple but when I made it, it held the tools too sloppily. The tool more or less is only supported by a grommet in the bottom of the plate.



To make something more fancy unless to model the tool.



First model was designed to allow the tool to hook over a lip.



In practice it worked well but the head and the air adapter have to fall in place at exactly the same time.



Worked well but I could do better.



Need to take into account other tools as well. Like this small body air grinder of which I have a few. Oddly enough all I need to do is change the direction of the bend and adjust the link slightly and it worked just fine.



The next logical step was to create a fusion of the two designs. Here’s each of them next to the hybrid.





The hybrid had a few revises as well



The biggest change of with was to allow an air tool to be inserted with the stately lever facing the wall because it looks much cleaner that way.

 

[lilscorpion]

And with any of my projects, now I need a bunch of them.



After getting this far I just had to do a little wall reorganizing. This isn’t anywhere near fina but does better illustrate how I envision the wall when it’s more filled out.

 

[Firstram]

Why are the color coded tools stored in different orders? Do you prefer alphabetical or wavelength when putting stuff away?


Awesome stuff!

 

[LXCam]

And with any of my projects, now I need a bunch of them.



After getting this far I just had to do a little wall reorganizing. This isn’t anywhere near fina but does better illustrate how I envision the wall when it’s more filled out.

You’re just too damn awesome! I know you mentioned it before but where did you get the edgers at. I’ve considered the ones that are a full blown cased machine but I’ve never had the footprint to allow such luxury. Also I’m assuming you set up your collection for specific gauges of metal, is that the case?

Thanks, Cam

 

[legenddc]

I’ve heard those chamfers work well with wood too.

 

[lilscorpion]

Why are the color coded tools stored in different orders? Do you prefer alphabetical or wavelength when putting stuff away?


Awesome stuff!

There are two ways I can quickly and easily find what I’m looking for in a sea of stuff - first is to keep it in a dedicated place. A specifics drawer with maybe even a specific location within the drawer.
The second works exceptionally well when I have more than one and it’s not easy to determine which is which without inspection - color coding. Over time my brain will know which is which so I don’t need to think before I grab them. Kinda like some pattern.

You’re just too damn awesome! I know you mentioned it before but where did you get the edgers at. I’ve considered the ones that are a full blown cased machine but I’ve never had the footprint to allow such luxury. Also I’m assuming you set up your collection for specific gauges of metal, is that the case?

Thanks, Cam

Yes, I have them set to various chamfer depths. Not so much for different thicknesses of metal but more to get consistent profiles regardless of kerf angle after getting cut on the plasma table. For example: a 1/4” part cut on the table has a more extreme kerf tha 1/8”. To get the same chamfer the cutter needs to be slightly deeper. Conversely, if you flip that 1/4” part out the kerf is now an undercut which requires even less.

I’ve heard those chamfers work well with wood too.

I haven’t used them on wood yet. I still like my 20v cordless router for wood stuff but I’ll give it a shot

 

[lilscorpion]

Why are the color coded tools stored in different orders? Do you prefer alphabetical or wavelength when putting stuff away?


Awesome stuff!

I think indent get what you were saying before…were you asking why I have the two different types of things in different color order in that pic?

If so…I selected whatever order I found the most pleasing to my brain when I organized them. The top set is grease guns ordered a year or so ago and the bottom set was this last weekend. You’d think they’d end up the same but clearly aren’t. Funny stuff

 

[Firstram]

I think indent get what you were saying before…were you asking why I have the two different types of things in different color order in that pic?

If so…I selected whatever order I found the most pleasing to my brain when I organized them. The top set is grease guns ordered a year or so ago and the bottom set was this last weekend. You’d think they’d end up the same but clearly aren’t. Funny stuff

So you ordered them by flavor, got it!

 

[legenddc]

I haven’t used them on wood yet. I still like my 20v cordless router for wood stuff but I’ll give it a shot

Here's the video I watched on it. I typically leave my corded palm router set up with a chamfer bit but the cordless is so much more convenient to use.

 

[Zippercat]

Here's the video I watched on it. I typically leave my corded palm router set up with a chamfer bit but the cordless is so much more convenient to use.

How much air supply does something like that require? I currently only have a 2.6 gal./ 2 hp portable Makita compressor.

 

[lilscorpion]

How much air supply does something like that require? I currently only have a 2.6 gal./ 2 hp portable Makita compressor.

I looked at the add on Amazon. CFM isn’t stated but the consumption is similar to an air drill. Will run on an air small compressor. Like any other tool the more you use it the more a small compressor will have to catch up frequently. Probably the biggest thing with this tool is it’s loudness even with hearing protection it’s LOUD.

 

[PhantomEB]

Damn, dude. You do killer work. I would need to retire to have the time and thought You put into it all.

all the more reason I could desire to be like you but I would need to quit my job at the plant. No winning lotto ticket just yet!

 

[lilscorpion]

Switched back to the big oven project this weekend because I need it for the paint booth. Last I left off I’d mounted the door to the oven.



Next is to make the inspection windows that I set in the door. I’m modeling them off of the windows in the in wall kitchen ovens I have. There’s an inner skin, an inner pane of glass, a vented spacer/cavity, an outer pane of glass, and an outer shell. The vented space between the two panes of glass allows air to escape so the difference of temp outs and inside the oven doesn’t break the glass.



It took me a few hours to work out the model/design. It looks more complicated than it is.



I started with the outer shell and spacers. The only piece that will be welded as single assembly is the spacer which everything else will bolt on to.



To make sure I had all the parts sized right I decided to cleco on the outer shell and make sure before welding.



Getting the size right in the lower and upper spacer rails gave me some fits. I think I made 7 different lengths before I got it right. I kept over shooting the adjustments.



Ultimately I got there. I cut some corner braces so the assembly could be set in place so I could see what it will look like. Looked good, forward I go.



Outside the front shell will be a brace that keeps the shell together and the hinges and handle will mount to. This brace is the only part on the door that will be 1/8” thick. The rest is all 16ga



The outer shell below it is oversized drilled so the rivnut mushroom recesses into it and the brace sits flush.



The finished assemble with the handle mocked up.

 

[lilscorpion]

Hinges and handle installed and door hung all with 1/4” rivnuts and stainless hardware.



The location of the hinges and handle lay perfectly over where the studs in the door are so the rivnuts go thru the window casing, the door skin, and into the studs. Probably strong enough.



Handle is likely stronger than it needs to be.

 

[lilscorpion]

First door took me about 4 hours I’d guess. Second one took less than an hour.



The doors open like butter. In their partial state they’re extremely light too.



Seeing the door closer to completion I absolutely had to make the handle. The handle is something I spent a fair amount of time thinking about and researching. I want to be able to open the door bare handed no matter how long the oven is running and not feel any heat. When I researched there was two different ideas. One was to add electrical insulated ceramic spacers between the handle a the oven and the second was to use a silicone and fiberglass heat shield (used in automotive/racing applications) as the handle cover. Decided to do both.

The handle will be 1 1/4” x 16ga tubing.




I machined a pair of aluminum ends threaded to 1/4”-20.



Then bored it just oversized for the ceramic spacer and 1/8” shallower so the spacer protrudes just a bit



then thru tapped it to 1-4-20.



This heat shield is perfect. The fiberglass liner gives it just barely a friction fit which prevents it from moving once installed but slips enough it’s fairly easy to get on considering.



A zip with the razor blade.



Used some 1/4-20 all thread and double nutted it inside the tubing to keep it in place. It rolls really nicely and the silicone is grippy. Only downside is it’s going to stay dirty all the time. Bet it’ll never be hot tho.

 

[lilscorpion]

Looking more compete now every step. Glass is on order, hope to get it this week but probably won’t be until next.



Back on the doors now. So far I have the outer shell mounted to the spacer which will retain the outer glass. Now I need to make the inside shell to retain the inner glass. Most of the work is done already, just need to cut a few pieces to get the lengths and bends right and then thru drill a half dozen holes.



And the second wasn’t far behind



Ultimately the clecos will be replaced by some rivenuts and rivets. I don’t have the rivnuts I want to use yet but I can use some that I have to temporarily hold things together and allow me to close the door until they arrive.



Next step for the doors is final assembly with the glass. With the door complete I might just be able to test coat a part…

 

[bugnut]

Again, your attention to detail is off the charts!

 

[stinkity stoink]

Wow, incredible craftsmanship!!