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Liquid Tite Indoors?

pgray007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
573
Location
Charlotte, NC area
I'm installing a new humidifier in the attic. Current dead one runs (a Honeywell TrueSteam that I'd like to take out back and shoot if you're wondering) off a regular old 120V plug, and the new one is 20A/240V.

I'm running new service, and I'll put a service disconnect near the humidifier, and when doing this outside for HVAC electrical have generally used Liquid Tite. I don't find Liquid Tite the easiest stuff to work with, it always wants to go left when I want it to go right. Is there a better alternative, other than PVC or metal conduit for this application? I'm wondering why you couldn't just put an appropriately rated 240V outlet with a switch and wire a plug to the humidifier since we're indoors, although the HVAC tech that did the install system install used Liquid Tite from the service disconnect to the furnace so I might be missing a code/best practice.

Or, should I whack the Liquid Tite with a heat gun a bit to make it more pliable, or is there some other voodoo that I'm not aware of? Or finally, do I need to just take Arnold's advice and stop being a girly man and just muscle it around...
 
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Norcal

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
13,796
Use non metallic liquid tight or greenfield, BTW a "service disconnect" is the disconnect for service entrance conductors, although HVAC techs like to use that term to describe a disconnect, but they have no business touching electrical outside the equipment they service.
 

PT Doc

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
3,197
Flexible metal conduit is easy to work with with the exception of cutting the end but sharp cut offs will make quick work of it and a redhead insert finishes of the sharp edge. I have used both once and would use liquid title over the fmc.
 
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pgray007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
573
Location
Charlotte, NC area
Thanks! I’ll go with the liquid tight. This may seem like a dumb question (always trying to learn rather than trying to find an easy/improper way) but why couldn’t you just run romex from the disconnect when you’re in an attic? There’s “unprotected” romex stapled to the framing up to the disconnect, so it seems like the conduit is only protecting part of the circuit.


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