Liquid Wrench...

[Bert_]

My 2 cents, If the fastener just turns hard but will move then just about anything oil-ish will work to make it come off smoother.

If it's seized or heavily rusted then the only real solution is the blue wrench (torch).

As far as assembling parts parts that would be expected to rust and be hard to get back off I just use anti seize.

 

[icthruu74]

MOUSE Milk?

What? No Beaver Masterlube?

https://www.beaverresearch.com/industrialaerosols.htmlHat

Personally I like PB Blaster, but I'll grab whatever is available.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Think of it in terms of opportunity cost. How much time would you spend dealing with less stuck things before you reached for the Kroil?

The problem for some is the availability of Kroil. There are no local dealers around here so I have to order it and try to use it sparingly when needed. If you notice the picture above, I try to keep a few different options in the cabinet and use the most appropriate for the situation.

 

[shedfullatools]

I have completely given up on penetrants all together, simply don't work around here. Heat is the only solution, in working on my trucks suspension the past few days there is a pattern forming. Drivers side always needs heat for removal and replacement hardware whereas the passenger side typically needs neither, this is due to salt being heavily applied to the center line and only a little running to the sides

 

[jonesg]

My 2 cents, If the fastener just turns hard but will move then just about anything oil-ish will work to make it come off smoother.

If it's seized or heavily rusted then the only real solution is the blue wrench (torch).

As far as assembling parts parts that would be expected to rust and be hard to get back off I just use anti seize.

Thats my experience too.
Any lube is better than no lube but you have to get it moving first.
Heat makes anything slippery.

 

[sberry]

It seems a lot of the experience and opinions as to what is best are from those with limited experience such as "my car" my jeep etc. Myself and others who have done this for decades, thousands of fasteners, heated thousands of bolts don't think the flavor of the penetrant is that big a deal. Liq wrench, Kroil, about the same. The amateur or hobby type has been completely convinced that there is some pixie dust in it and nothing else seems to work.

 

[StreetGLi]

Right... Because only mechanics are able to judge the functionality of a product.

Obviously heat is the best choice. It almost always works. However The guy buying three different types of lube and penetrant and asking what makes them different probably isn't doing a rear suspension in his garage. He's not likely to be torching the squeeky wheel on his kid's wagon.

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk

 

[A**holes Garage]

http://www.mousemilk.com/

http://www.bestreviews.guide/penetrating-oils

 

[bobabuee]

atf and acetone mix works great and cheap and makes alot

 

[Scout3918]

http://www.mousemilk.com/

http://www.bestreviews.guide/penetrating-oils

thanks for the link and info.

 

[Scout3918]

thanks for all the replies. I bought a can of Liquid Wrench, but not had the chance to use it yet. I went with Liquid Wrench cause it seems to have decent rating and more important that what the store had. I will def get a can of PB blaster when I run across a can of it.

I unfortunately no mechanic, but have started to restore a couple vises for hobby. I do few general things around the garage/house. so it wont get used a lot. I don't own a set of torches, but have used them years ago. I cant justify having a set for the cost, for the use it would get.

thanks again for all the replies.