Lithonia Strip Light Differences
- Thread starter Jamie V
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laser3kw
Well-known member
ok - here is what I see
the "TZ323MV" is a low profile. Smaller width and height and the tubes are almost right next to each other touching.
I kind of like the way the tube sockets are made, it looks a little sturdier than the other.
Other than that they are electrically the same, ballast, wattage, tube count, length, row mounting, surface mounting.
I believe I have the other TC232MV in my shop, judging by the tube sockets and over all dimensions. They mounted great and were easy to wire. They start fairly fast in cold weather. Maybe a couple of minutes till full bright on 0º days.
the "TZ323MV" is a low profile. Smaller width and height and the tubes are almost right next to each other touching.
I kind of like the way the tube sockets are made, it looks a little sturdier than the other.
Other than that they are electrically the same, ballast, wattage, tube count, length, row mounting, surface mounting.
I believe I have the other TC232MV in my shop, judging by the tube sockets and over all dimensions. They mounted great and were easy to wire. They start fairly fast in cold weather. Maybe a couple of minutes till full bright on 0º days.
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Platonic Solid
Well-known member
The wider lamp spacing of the TC will yield slightly higher lumen output.
The lamp holders from the TC are standard (unlike the TZ) thus if one breaks, replacements are easy to come by.
The lamp holders from the TC are standard (unlike the TZ) thus if one breaks, replacements are easy to come by.
ryanjharvey
Active member
The z strip is just a lower profile strip fixture. Unless space is an issue, I would go with the tc series
laser3kw
Well-known member
There is only 3/8" difference in height. If you have space issues, I doubt the 3/8? is going to help you.
The fixture is 2-1/8". The Tube, T8 is 1". There is some gap between the fixture and the tube - let's say 1" just for guessing. That total would be 4-1/8" or so. The low profile would be 3-3/4". (the above figures are not exact)
If your clearance is that tight I wouldn't chance it with either.
That sounds about right, yes. Then add another 1/2" for the top half of the bulb.
One thing to consider about the Z fixture...those bulbs are so close together that they're difficult to spin in and out of the sockets. The strip with the wider spaced lamps is easier to deal with and will give you better light.
Good luck
CD
One thing to consider about the Z fixture...those bulbs are so close together that they're difficult to spin in and out of the sockets. The strip with the wider spaced lamps is easier to deal with and will give you better light.
Good luck
CD
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
The harder you look the more confused you'll get. Don't overlook the most important statement on the spec sheet: "Note: Specifications subject to change without notice." Thus if 1/4" +/- makes a difference, you better go to the store and measure the fixture you want to buy - if that depth works for you then buy that fixture from that store.
See, but I found more confusing info. This says the Z series is 1-1/4" deep, where is that?
It must be the depth of the body without including the sockets. Seeing as how the sockets themselves have to be slightly over 1" above the body (because that's the diameter of the lamp), it would be impossible for the body to be only 1/4". So, 1 1/4" must be the depth of the body without the sockets.
CD
edit: looking closer at the chart, it looks like maybe they got the width and depth crossed up.
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laser3kw
Well-known member
X2
My wife's shop has those and I hate trying to change bulbs.
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Jamie, T5 doesn't have to be F54T5HO at ~4500lm per bulb. You can go F28T5 at ~2800lm.
Is space really THAT tight?
If so, then why not use some low profile, surface mount LED fixture rather than a fluorescent? Regardless of which fluorescent tube choice you make, they wont get much smaller than the ones you've already seen. However, there are some tiny LED fixtures available.
CD
I have approx 3-1/2" of space above my garage door when it's up. It looks like the Z series with T8 bulbs will clear but apparently it's tough to replace the tubes with them and you loose light with them being so close together. If the T5 version will work and avoid that problem then that could be an option. Everything I read says no T5's for a 10' ceiling though.
I am not in the garage enough to warrant the cost of LED lights right now. I also like the idea of standard strip light housings because I have the option down the road to switch to replacement LED tubes if I choose.
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
The rule is No F54T5HO below 15 feet. F28T5 is equivalent to F32T8. There are super slim fluorescent fixtures, but they'll cost you more.
laser3kw
Well-known member
here is an "outside the box" idea:
just mount the fixtures just to the right and left of the door while up. They should provide plenty of coverage.
Or, get the "S" series - single tube - and mount it side ways (where you show)with the bulb to the left or right. You may need a couple of them. Not the most elegant solution (may be considered "hack") but in a pinch it may solve your problem. Or what about knocking a chunk out of the ceiling and recessing them?
Just throw sh!t on the wall.
just mount the fixtures just to the right and left of the door while up. They should provide plenty of coverage.
Or, get the "S" series - single tube - and mount it side ways (where you show)with the bulb to the left or right. You may need a couple of them. Not the most elegant solution (may be considered "hack") but in a pinch it may solve your problem. Or what about knocking a chunk out of the ceiling and recessing them?
Just throw sh!t on the wall.
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simpler=better
Well-known member
I have plenty of room in the rest of the garage except 2 16' rows above the door. My OCD make all the fixtures HAVE to match and be uniform.
All the wiring in my garage will be exposed conduit so the strip lights are what I want to use.
All the wiring in my garage will be exposed conduit so the strip lights are what I want to use.
laser3kw
Well-known member
Holy Bageezes!
That is a BUNCH of light! I say TOO much.
The garge is 24 wide by 40 long?
I count 34, 4ft fixtues at 2 tubes each? total of 68 tubes?
plus at 32 watt for each tube that's 2176 watts @ 120v = 18 amp.
I have 30 tubes TOTAL in a 30 x 24 and it is p-l-e-n-t-y bright.
I say the 16ft width is good, just drop the number of rows down to 4 maybe 5. Or possible 2 rows running the other direction (left to right in picture diagram)
That is a BUNCH of light! I say TOO much.
The garge is 24 wide by 40 long?
I count 34, 4ft fixtues at 2 tubes each? total of 68 tubes?
plus at 32 watt for each tube that's 2176 watts @ 120v = 18 amp.
I have 30 tubes TOTAL in a 30 x 24 and it is p-l-e-n-t-y bright.
I say the 16ft width is good, just drop the number of rows down to 4 maybe 5. Or possible 2 rows running the other direction (left to right in picture diagram)
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I have been over multiple lightning layouts and that is the design I'm going with. I will have the lights installed on multiple switches so I can choose the amount of light I need for individual tasks.
Just because I have the ability to have 200 lumens of light per sq/ft doesn't mean I need to use them all all the time.
Just because I have the ability to have 200 lumens of light per sq/ft doesn't mean I need to use them all all the time.
laser3kw
Well-known member
understood.
Just so others know, there's about a $1000 in fixtures and another $125 in bulbs before you add wiring and hardware - in a 960 square foot area.
That's great if you can, but still, it's going to be Very well lite!
Back to your initial problem. The only doable solution I see is to cut the ceiling sheet rock just big enough to recess the fixture to the needed clearance. If you measure just right, you can slide it along side the joist and screw it to the joist.
That's all I got....
Ok, little update. I changed my layout to keep costs down and got my fixtures. I ended up with eight 8' fixtures and two 4' fixtures. Depending on the bulbs being used I should be around 100-120 lumens/ft2.
I got these fixtures but from the local supply house. I got the 8' ones for $43.40 and the 4' ones for $28.95
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-L...General-Purpose-Strip-Light-C232-MV/205507196
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-L...ent-Non-Hooded-Strip-Light-TC232-MV/205926445
I got these fixtures but from the local supply house. I got the 8' ones for $43.40 and the 4' ones for $28.95
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-L...General-Purpose-Strip-Light-C232-MV/205507196
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-L...ent-Non-Hooded-Strip-Light-TC232-MV/205926445
laser3kw
Well-known member
how are you addressing the low clearance above the garage door?
My garage door already has a low clearance track. I have a 9' door with a 10' ceiling.
I addressed the low clearance by eliminating rows of lights. The closest row had 3-1/2" of clearance so by eliminating every other row that row got eliminated.
This is what it would have been if I kept the rows.
I addressed the low clearance by eliminating rows of lights. The closest row had 3-1/2" of clearance so by eliminating every other row that row got eliminated.
This is what it would have been if I kept the rows.
laser3kw
Well-known member
Good Deal!
Glad to see a well executed solution that address both the low clearance and OCD!
Now it's time to fill that empty, well lite space.
Enjoy!
Glad to see a well executed solution that address both the low clearance and OCD!
Now it's time to fill that empty, well lite space.
Enjoy!
kj_mustang
Well-known member
100-120 lumens is plenty bright. You should be happy. I designed mine for 100. 28 x 32 x 16 high with 11 eight foot t8 fixtures and 1 four foot fixture.
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
What is the circle in the middle?
Consider putting a fixture and lights above the garage door, where the ceiling meets the header above the door. Angle it away from the garage door opening ... say 30 degrees.
Then put fixtures and lights parallel with the garage door tracks, just a few inches outside the tracks. That should give you good lighting at the front of the door without worrying about the lights and garage door making contact.
Consider putting a fixture and lights above the garage door, where the ceiling meets the header above the door. Angle it away from the garage door opening ... say 30 degrees.
Then put fixtures and lights parallel with the garage door tracks, just a few inches outside the tracks. That should give you good lighting at the front of the door without worrying about the lights and garage door making contact.
Circle in the middle is where a ceiling fan will go.
Can't put a light above the door in the corner because the springs are there.
The first row of lights (that is above the door) clears just fine. I originally had a row every 4' and the second row was going to be a problem. After doing some more calculations I decided to eliminate every other row and now height isn't a problem.
Before
After
I was trying to shoot for 200 lumens/ft2 so I had extra if I needed it but with the height problem and my OCD problem it wasn't working out. With 32w T8 bulbs available up to 3100 lumens I can still get to about 120 lumens/ft2. From everyone I talk to and everything I read that should be plenty especially with my ceiling and walls being painted semi-gloss white.
Can't put a light above the door in the corner because the springs are there.
The first row of lights (that is above the door) clears just fine. I originally had a row every 4' and the second row was going to be a problem. After doing some more calculations I decided to eliminate every other row and now height isn't a problem.
Before
After
I was trying to shoot for 200 lumens/ft2 so I had extra if I needed it but with the height problem and my OCD problem it wasn't working out. With 32w T8 bulbs available up to 3100 lumens I can still get to about 120 lumens/ft2. From everyone I talk to and everything I read that should be plenty especially with my ceiling and walls being painted semi-gloss white.
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Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
Jamie V;5246170Can't put a light above the door in the corner because the springs are there.[/QUOTE said: