Little compressor for $15
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bubinga
Well-known member
God point Citation,
But @ the 0P, I would still either pull your check valve and repair/replace it, and go from there.
Even lf you have to replace a valve, or gasket or whatever, you're still going to need the check valve.
Did you try a Big (enough) pipe wrench to remove the check valve ?
were you trying to fill a larger tank with the working check valve?
bubinga
Well-known member
I would 1st pull you old check valve and test it for one way only air flow,
and if failing the test, see if you can't replace the spring and cir-clip.
as stated, "rebuilding" mine was an easy fix.
and if failing the test, see if you can't replace the spring and cir-clip.
as stated, "rebuilding" mine was an easy fix.
Well last night I took the head off, because I noticed air was blowing out the intake. Turns out the gasket was letting air back out the intake. I noticed when I opened the head that the gasket was torn. Cleaned it all up, made my own gasket from some gasket paper.
Low and behold 120psi and no air hissing or bleeding noises. Will monitor how old long it holds this.
Looks like I may need to replace the spring on the check valve as currently I’m using the piece from my other working compressor.
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Low and behold 120psi and no air hissing or bleeding noises. Will monitor how old long it holds this.
Looks like I may need to replace the spring on the check valve as currently I’m using the piece from my other working compressor.
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bubinga
Well-known member
Good Deal!
Well here is the issue why the check valve was blowing air back out to the unloader.
The white cap, the one on left is from the leaking one and the one on the right is from the working compressor.
Basically the difference in thickness of it is what prevents it from properly sealing inside the check valve and letting air blow back. Still need to get a new check valve or at least new plastic piece there that’s the same with as the right one.
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The white cap, the one on left is from the leaking one and the one on the right is from the working compressor.
Basically the difference in thickness of it is what prevents it from properly sealing inside the check valve and letting air blow back. Still need to get a new check valve or at least new plastic piece there that’s the same with as the right one.
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What does the sealing surface look like. The difference in thickness likely had nothing to do with it. Remember, each mfr is going to make the parts a bit differently and to their own specifications. So long as the spring is correctly sized the difference in thickness isn't an issue. The big issue would be any damage to the sealing surface. You might be able to save the old part with some careful effort to redress the sealing surface.
Well from the way I understand what seals the check valve from blowing air back is the thickness part that matters as it is not thick/deep enough to close the bottom of the hole off where the air from the tank would blow back..
Removing the existing check valve is not possible. I tried like a mad man and it’s not budging and neither do I have a good approach angle to get even more leverage on it. Basically I need a new check valve for just that white plastic cap and perhaps spring portion..
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Is what your trying to remove in post #25?
If so, just make a "socket" for it out of steel scrap and 1/2" or larger nut welded to the top. They you can use a ratchet and cheater from above and not worry about clearances.
Of course, if you don't have a welder, I guess you have to go to Plan B.
Ya that is exactly what I’m trying to remove! Not a bad idea, might give this a shot and I do have a welder
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The white part is pushed against a sealing surface by the spring and the air pressure in the tank. Remember, this is a face seal, not a seal around the diameter of the white part. The thinking of the white disc shouldn't matter (assuming it was made correctly). I noticed the party on the right has an o-ring. Did the one on the left have any seal like that?
Anyway, the thickness should matter since the spring is longer with the old part. Take a good look at the sealing surfaces of the white part and the brass housing. It's possible that someone dirt got past the filter and into the check valve. Also, if you look on line a check valve is around $20 or so, not too much if you need to replace it.
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bubinga
Well-known member
Can you try a Longer spring or Stretching that Spring?
That check valve had to have worked at one time.
You don't happen to have a wood or metal lathe do you?
"Looks" Like UHMW Plastic, If you could find something laying around to make it out of.
UHMW plastic, or something like it.
I have some flat stock, But I think it's only 3/8" thick.
If I had some round stock, I could make you one, but I do not.
Can the spring be taken right off the plastic part, Looks like it (the spring) just sets on a step Right?
What about a piece of Brass?
Think I have some brass alloy stock down there, I could make you one real quick, out of brass? Just pay me postage.
And/Or possible a longer spring like mentioned above,
EDIT
Yeah, I was wondering about the o ring too.
That check valve had to have worked at one time.
You don't happen to have a wood or metal lathe do you?
"Looks" Like UHMW Plastic, If you could find something laying around to make it out of.
UHMW plastic, or something like it.
I have some flat stock, But I think it's only 3/8" thick.
If I had some round stock, I could make you one, but I do not.
Can the spring be taken right off the plastic part, Looks like it (the spring) just sets on a step Right?
What about a piece of Brass?
Think I have some brass alloy stock down there, I could make you one real quick, out of brass? Just pay me postage.
And/Or possible a longer spring like mentioned above,
EDIT
Yeah, I was wondering about the o ring too.
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I would take some measurements before stretching the spring. The air pressure in the tank holds the valve shut as much as the spring does. The spring just helps. So long as it barely closes with the current spring you should be fine. It's unlikely the spring or the plastic part are dimensionally off. Again, look at the sealing surfaces? Are they clean, flat?
I still think it’s the size of the white cap. Look at the difference with the unit inside the check valve.
Second picture is the thicker cap from the working compressor, once installed in this unit seals it and no air leaks.
First picture is the smaller cap that was in this unit. With it installed it bleeds air.
Not sure but look at the bottom of the white cap you can see the opening how much bigger it is down into the tank, hence why air is released.
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I still think it’s the size of the white cap. Look at the difference with the unit inside the check valve.
Second picture is the thicker cap from the working compressor, once installed in this unit seals it and no air leaks.
First picture is the smaller cap that was in this unit. With it installed it bleeds air.
Not sure but look at the bottom of the white cap you can see the opening how much bigger it is down into the tank, hence why air is released.
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Can you get a picture of the ends of the two white caps and of the inside of the brass part?
bubinga
Well-known member
I do see what you mean.I still think it’s the size of the white cap. Look at the difference with the unit inside the check valve.
Second picture is the thicker cap from the working compressor, once installed in this unit seals it and no air leaks.
First picture is the smaller cap that was in this unit. With it installed it bleeds air.
Not sure but look at the bottom of the white cap you can see the opening how much bigger it is down into the tank, hence why air is released.
might have to buy another Valve, and rob that part, or try to make A "socket" to pull the old valve.
bubinga
Well-known member
Do you have a Oxy. Accel. torch to throw some heat to the old valve to help get it out?