Live edge tables

[brianh]

Started these today I hope to finish them by the weekend.

The wood for the table tops I milled and kiln dried, the maple top was from a tree that came down during hurricane sandy. The other one, spalted beach, was a log saved from a firewood pile.

Legs are sapele I get that from a supplier very similar in appearance of mahogany. I cut the tenons and mortises on a CNC router

Made a few of these before they sell well.

 

[Hornman]

You have a very strange sense of style. I like that in a woodworker.

 

[brianh]

You have a very strange sense of style. I like that in a woodworker.

Thanks, while I do do traditional wood working for orders I find the standard stuff a bit boring. I take this type of work to art shows to get sales at those types of shows unique work is needed.

I may be getting a large job for a church alter, the design they want is massive and gaudy but that stuff pays the bills.

 

[hh76]

I may be getting a large job for a church alter, the design they want is massive and gaudy but that stuff pays the bills.

So they don't want the alter made with the same legs as your table?

 

[thelews]

be good tables for a high end shoe store

 

[LXCam]

That's awesome, I luv it!

 

[BaMaDuDe87]

The wood for the table tops I milled and kiln dried, the maple top was from a tree that came down during hurricane sandy.

So talk to me. I'm new to making furniture with wood. Do you have to put any kind of sealer on these (esp the edges) or does the kiln drying process protect the wood?

 

[brianh]

So talk to me. I'm new to making furniture with wood. Do you have to put any kind of sealer on these (esp the edges) or does the kiln drying process protect the wood?

Yes you should seal the end grain of the boards otherwise the ends dry out and shrink faster than the middle of the board the stress then creates end checking, it is unnecessary to do the side faces. Some checking is inevitable I usually mill my boards about a foot longer than what I want out of a dry board.

Latex paint work fine for sealing the end grain.

I like to air dry for a while before kiln drying several months if I can, the kiln uses a dehumidifier for drying. I do run a heater on certain loads that may have insects for two days at 140 degrees.

Lots of info on here http://www.arboristsite.com/community/forums/milling-saw-mills.62/

 

[BaMaDuDe87]

Wow! Thank you

 

[sqznby]

They look great.
You do some pretty amazing work.

 

[brianh]

Finished. Sprayed with Cambell krystal post cat conversion varnish.

 

[brianh]

I can only think of three words for those table "legs": dee red full.

What shall we call that piece of art? ****** Got Hit by Falling Tree ???

Sorry...just keeping it real.

Thank You

 

[toms73novass]

Did you wet sand the finish or is that how flat that finish lays down?

 

[Toolfool]

Cool, and different.

 

[brianh]

Did you wet sand the finish or is that how flat that finish lays down?

Thats how flat it lays down, after a few weeks of cure I usually will buff with compound to make it smooth as glass but still a satin finish.

You can do a glass finish with ordinary polyurethane, before I sprayed, I used to wipe on poly thinned about 30 percent with mineral spirits wiped on with a lint free cotton rag, old tee shirt washes a million times works well. takes a lot of coats usually 6 or more then wet sand with 1500 and compound buff after.

Takes a lot of time to do it that way but the finish comes out great.