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LLambrich into Hilti UH700

spcv

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Hello, everyone.

Long time reader, first time posting.

I've searched (maybe poorly) but I couldn't find an answear to this doubt I have.
Does anyone know if this chuck:
Chuck.jpg


is compatible with this hand drill?

9532965093406.jpg


Sorry if it seems a dumb question, but I'd like to know before taking the risk of ordering it.
Any help is appreciated!

Thanks, folks!

S.
 
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neophyte

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You need to find out what type of arbor the drill has, and then find a compatible drill chuck that matches the drill arbor.
The likelihood, is that the drill has a 1/2”-20 threaded arbor, although this isn’t guaranteed, especially nowadays.
The chuck that comes on the drill pictured is a single sleeve chuck, which means the drill likely has a spindle lock, which will allow the use of either a single, or double, sleeved drill chuck.
As far as better quality keyless chucks go, Hilti usually uses Metabo Futuro Top keyless chucks, or Rohm Supra SK keyless chucks on their droll chick adapters for their Rotary hammers, so if you want to top of the line option to replace a Hilti chuck, I would recommend one of those options.
Mostly when I see Llambich chucks, it’s for mounting on stationary equipment like lathes or drill presses, were extra weight or size isn’t as much of an issue.
I don’t know if Llambrich makes similar chucks to Rohm and Metabo for hand held power tools, I don’t see the chucks listed on Llambrich’s US website.
The Rohm and Metabo chucks I mentioned above are similar in construction to the Llambrich chuck you posted though.
 
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spcv

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Thanks for the reply, neophyte.

I'm from Portugal, so my options are a bit more limited. Actually. the chuck on my drill is like this one:
310917-1.jpg

It's not in such a bad shape, but sometimes the bits don't hold very well, so I figured maybe I should change the chuck...
 

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neophyte

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Thanks for the reply, neophyte.

I'm from Portugal, so my options are a bit more limited. Actually. the chuck on my drill is like this one:
310917-1.jpg

It's not in such a bad shape, but sometimes the bits don't hold very well, so I figured maybe I should change the chuck...
That is a Rohm Extra RV style chuck.
Also sometimes sold as the Metabo Futuro Plus.
(Allegedly, one of the manufacturers makes it for the other, but not sure which is which.

I looked up the Llambruch Spanish website.
For a hammer drill, you would want a Llambrich CPM series keyless chuck, or a Llambrich CKX series chuck.
The Llambrich CKX chucks are closer to what you pictured, and the model you would probably need is the CKX-13-R-1/2. This appears to have a 1/2”-30 thread mount.

 
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spcv

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Wow, that was some very nice response! Thanks again, neophyte.

The drill was bought used, but works like a charm. Store bought Hiltis are so expensive that adding a new chuck would still be a lot less than buying a new one.

But now I'm divided. Rohm is a refference, but I thought that maybe Llambrich could be a better choice. Quality wise, both are equal, right?

I think I'll try to contact both Rohm and Llambrich sellers to see which has the best offer. Both brands aren't easy to find around here... I may end up having to buy from an international seller.

Thanks once again, man! You're awesome!
 

neophyte

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No clue which are better.
In the USA, the Llambrich chucks available are usually just the higher precision ones sold to machinists.
I honestly didn’t realize Llambrich made chucks for portable drills.
The Llambrich lists what appears to be a 44mm diameter for the chuck.
Ro chucks are usually 43mm or under in diameter, so the chuck diameter doesn’t interfere with clamping the 43mm collar found on a large number of Euro drills into a drill press adapter, or other collar accessory.
Most collars open up a bit, so I’m not sure how much difficulty a 44mm chuck body would actually cause.
 
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spcv

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@spcv
For a hammerdrill, its important to get a chuck with carbide jaws.
Thanks for replying, KnurledNut.
I don't even know if there's a word for carbide in portuguese...

I'm guessing both Rohm and Llambrich have them, since they are such reputable brands...

So far none of the online sellers has responded to my request for information on prices and compatibilities...

Let's see if I'm not stuck with the one I've got. I'm already thinking of checking the compatibility of the Rohm chuck from my Parkside just to get by... :ROFLMAO:
PABSP-20-Li-B2.jpg
 
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neophyte

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Thanks for replying, KnurledNut.
I don't even know if there's a word for carbide in portuguese...

I'm guessing both Rohm and Llambrich have them, since they are such reputable brands...

So far none of the online sellers has responded to my request for information on prices and compatibilities...

Let's see if I'm not stuck with the one I've got. I'm already thinking of checking the compatibility of the Rohm chuck from my Parkside just to get by... :ROFLMAO:
PABSP-20-Li-B2.jpg
Llambrich makes one or two chuck models with carbide jaws, although not the heavier fancier chucks. (The same for the Rohm Supra SK and Metabo Futuro Top chucks which only seem to be steel jawed)
Rohm and Metabo both do make the lighter all steel chucks with carbide jaws as an option though.
 
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spcv

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Ok, guys, finally found a supplier with a LLambrich CPM-13 R-1/2 on stock. I'll get it next week.

Now the problem seems to remove the Rohm from the Hilti. I looked inside the chuck and there is no screw inside.
0dd191ca-82fc-4f82-95d2-8cf127ea3e95.jpeg

Should I use wrenches on the spindle and "mouth" of the chuck?
1954d23d-0dd7-46da-b33a-f7d085941770.jpeg

The spindle is a 18 wrench...
7ddbe234-f3e0-497c-a87e-424c5a6bbb23.jpeg

And the hexagonal part is 19. It's more beaten up than I remembered...
306cee52-25cb-4216-a1f3-1d14b2fd346b.jpeg

The spindle and the heagonal piece rotate together, but I don't want to force anything.
I've found some instructions on an online Hilti manual, but that's for some other kind of chuck.
Captura de ecrã 2023-11-11 005903.jpg

Can anyone shed some light on this dumb simple mind of mine?
 

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spcv

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https://www.hilti.ro/medias/sys_mas...-US-Operating-Instruction-PUB-5138090-000.pdf
1699665296644.png

If this torque spec is correct, it'll probably be on there pretty good, so prepare for a fight:
1699665518434.png

I would probably tighten a hex bit socket in the chuck and try to rattle gun it off while holding the spindle with a pliers wrench.
Well, that didn’t work. Both strategies, with a wrench and a hex key. I used my strength, then a hammer, then a Stanley sledge hammer, then the strength from the drill and finally I used an impact screwdriver while locking the spindle with the open wrench and holding the drill on a vise. It never moved. It’s like a single unique piece. Frustrating, to say the least.

The machine took quite a beating, I was afraid it wouldn’t drill correctly, but I tested it and is working fine, apart from the eventual bit slippage.

I’m usually pretty good with tools, but, gosh, I’m feeling so inept right now!
 

KnurledNut

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Well, that didn’t work. Both strategies, with a wrench and a hex key. I used my strength, then a hammer, then a Stanley sledge hammer, then the strength from the drill and finally I used an impact screwdriver while locking the spindle with the open wrench and holding the drill on a vise. It never moved. It’s like a single unique piece. Frustrating, to say the least.

The machine took quite a beating, I was afraid it wouldn’t drill correctly, but I tested it and is working fine, apart from the eventual bit slippage.

I’m usually pretty good with tools, but, gosh, I’m feeling so inept right now!
I've fought some before that almost won. Dont give up!
 

KnurledNut

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This was the worst one I've done. It was on a heavy duty right angle drill. I just about threw in the towel.
:tantrum2:
 
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RTM

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If it’s been on there a while, and you’ve given it typical hammer drill abuse, spray some penetrating oil into the joint.

I did the hex wrench in the jaws. Buddy said to put the hex wrench short end in the jaws, and run it in reverse against a corner of your bench so you get 3/4 circle swing. Never tried it, but I doubt it would beat the sledge noted above.
 

neophyte

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If there is no locking screw, then the chuck was threadlockered on, which is required for the heavier duty chucks since the design precludes the use of a locking screw.
This is to prevent the chuck from getting removed accidentally in reverse rotation.
As threaded arbors are designed to self tighten on the arbor in use, drill chucks can wind up very tight on the arbor.
 
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spcv

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Boy, do I deserve a facepalm. Better yet, a slap! I was afraid to go full throttle on the impact driver. Once I upped the Nm, the chuck came out!

Thanks for the patience, guys! And all the good advices! I’ll bother you again when I get the new chuck!
B0A715AE-8D6A-4FBA-982F-FEA770F113CA.jpeg
 
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