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Load center help

dh465

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Joined
Dec 18, 2023
Messages
7
My posts arent posting, im not sure why - if im breaking a rule please tell me so I can address it.

Im looking for someone qualified people to chime in to make sure my system is safe. I am installing a few 50/30/20 RV panels off of a 200a load center. The panels are fused at the main at 60 amps. my longest 240ft run uses 0/1-0/1-0/1-2 aluminum URD for 60 amps. the other panels are 180ft or less and use 2-2-2-4 aluminum mobile home feeder wire for 60 amps. The load center is already wired with the exception of I still need to connect the ground wire and grounding electrodes. The subpanels are prewired, all i need to do is mount them and connect the 2 hots, neutral, and ground from the loadcenter. I will post some pictures tommorow once the loadcenter is properly grounded to get feedback if everything looks correct. I have a few questions though.

1) how do i determine the correct ground wire size? I plan on using 4awg bare copper on the load center with 2 8 ft copper ground rods spaced 8 ft apart. I plan on using 6awg bare copper on the subpanels with 2 8 ft copper ground rods spaced 8 ft apart. I plan do get one of those ground clamps and ensure that im less than 25ohm resistance. im guessing on this wire size, hopefully its sufficient, and bigger is going to be a pain. I plan on burying these rods 1-2ft below ground level so that I can drive over them. I have super sandy soil.

2) Is mixing copper and aluminum okay in this case? My ground lug in the main is compataible with both metals. All of my wiring connecting the loadcenter to the subpanels is aluminum. the only copper wire in my load center is the grounding electrodes and the actual "earth" grounding wire. Everything is slathered in novolox. the copper ground wire will have its own dedicated ground lug hole.

3) Aluminum wires like to walk out of their terminals. I am torquing my wire to 50lbs as indicated on the breakers. how often do i need to check these connections and retorque?

4) How can I stress test these connections? I plan on checking the voltages across my plugs when i am done. I plan on torquing everything down. I plan on retorquing all the prewired connections (though im not sure to what spec yet) I want to ensure that all connections are solid and that the system can handle a 12,000w draw and perform as expected before I plug a $100,000+ Rv into it. is there any realistic way to do this? I dont know how i would even begin to simulate this load with hairdryers.


I live in the middle of nowhere. I planned on getting all my work inspected by the city when I was finished. I called them today and asked about getting an inspection to get certified and make sure i was up to code. They told me that the only thing they do is come out and mark their own records wherever power lines are buried accoring to the electricians plans and any inspections are handled by the power company. The power company told me that they dont do inspections and to just "do it however your electrician tells you to". To me it seems like inspections dont exist out here? Im not really sure with how to proceed on making this "legal"
 
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sparky 1971

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Oct 9, 2018
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Location
Central Iowa
My posts arent posting, im not sure why - if im breaking a rule please tell me so I can address it.
Your other post was there, you probably didn't refresh the page. I don't know what you did, but when I tried to reply, it was gone.
Im looking for someone qualified people to chime in to make sure my system is safe. I am installing a few 50/30/20 RV panels off of a 200a load center. The panels are fused at the main at 60 amps. my longest 240ft run uses 0/1-0/1-0/1-2 aluminum URD for 60 amps.
If the 200 amp main panel is inside, the URD should be dual rated for indoor use. What is the insulation type marked on the cable? If it has RHH or RHW-2 on it, you're good to go. It appears you don't have anyone to impress enough to pass an inspection, so that's going to be your call if it doesn't.
the other panels are 180ft or less and use 2-2-2-4 aluminum mobile home feeder wire for 60 amps. The load center is already wired with the exception of I still need to connect the ground wire and grounding electrodes. The subpanels are prewired, all i need to do is mount them and connect the 2 hots, neutral, and ground from the loadcenter. I will post some pictures tommorow once the loadcenter is properly grounded to get feedback if everything looks correct. I have a few questions though.

1) how do i determine the correct ground wire size? I plan on using 4awg bare copper on the load center with 2 8 ft copper ground rods spaced 8 ft apart. I plan on using 6awg bare copper on the subpanels with 2 8 ft copper ground rods spaced 8 ft apart. I plan do get one of those ground clamps and ensure that im less than 25ohm resistance. im guessing on this wire size, hopefully its sufficient, and bigger is going to be a pain. I plan on burying these rods 1-2ft below ground level so that I can drive over them. I have super sandy soil.
Ground rods don't need larger than a #6 but if you want to use a #4, that's fine too.

2) Is mixing copper and aluminum okay in this case?
My ground lug in the main is compataible with both metals. All of my wiring connecting the loadcenter to the subpanels is aluminum. the only copper wire in my load center is the grounding electrodes and the actual "earth" grounding wire. Everything is slathered in novolox. the copper ground wire will have its own dedicated ground lug hole.
Yes
3) Aluminum wires like to walk out of their terminals. I am torquing my wire to 50lbs as indicated on the breakers. how often do i need to check these connections and retorque?
There should never be a reason to retorque them. If you want to, leave yourself extra wire because you going to have to cut the end of the wire off and re-strip it so you have fresh wire.
4) How can I stress test these connections? I plan on checking the voltages across my plugs when i am done. I plan on torquing everything down. I plan on retorquing all the prewired connections (though im not sure to what spec yet) I want to ensure that all connections are solid and that the system can handle a 12,000w draw and perform as expected before I plug a $100,000+ Rv into it. is there any realistic way to do this? I dont know how i would even begin to simulate this load with hairdryers.
The best test will be when RV's start plugging in to it, but it will be fine and do not re-torque anything.
I live in the middle of nowhere. I planned on getting all my work inspected by the city when I was finished. I called them today and asked about getting an inspection to get certified and make sure i was up to code. They told me that the only thing they do is come out and mark their own records wherever power lines are buried accoring to the electricians plans and any inspections are handled by the power company. The power company told me that they dont do inspections and to just "do it however your electrician tells you to". To me it seems like inspections dont exist out here? Im not really sure with how to proceed on making this "legal"
Don't worry about it.
 
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dh465

Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2023
Messages
7
If the 200 amp main panel is inside, the URD should be dual rated for indoor use. What is the insulation type marked on the cable? If it has RHH or RHW-2 on it, you're good to go. It appears you don't have anyone to impress enough to pass an inspection, so that's going to be your call if it doesn't.
the main panel is on the same pole as the power lines, outside. all wires, including urd are buried from the main about 2.5ft and pop up only to go into the 50/30/20 panel.
I also would like to rent out some of the spaces if possible so i really tried to make sure i did things to code. I dont want to experiment with other peoples RVs. I was under the impression id have to pass an inspection and that would have given me peace of mind.
 

sparky 1971

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Location
Central Iowa
the main panel is on the same pole as the power lines, outside. all wires, including urd are buried from the main about 2.5ft and pop up only to go into the 50/30/20 panel.
I also would like to rent out some of the spaces if possible so i really tried to make sure i did things to code. I dont want to experiment with other peoples RVs. I was under the impression id have to pass an inspection and that would have given me peace of mind.
Since it's on a pole, you don't have anything to worry about with the URD. Since you are supplying 60 amps to each pedestal, you don't have anything to worry about capacity wise unless you plug a 50 and 30 amp camper into the same ped, even then, there probably won't be an issue unless all of the AC's are on, ahd then it still might be ok.
 
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dh465

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everything looking correct in here?
 

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wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
looks like you used no-alox on cu. unnecessary but it wont hurt anything. its actually not needed on the aluminum either unless the wire manufacturer calls for it

you may be over the fill limit on those conduits
 

sparky 1971

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Central Iowa
Are those female adapters being used in place of a lockout and bushing?

EDIT. Locknut, stupid auto correct.
 
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dh465

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Dec 18, 2023
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looks like you used no-alox on cu. unnecessary but it wont hurt anything. its actually not needed on the aluminum either unless the wire manufacturer calls for it

you may be over the fill limit on those conduits
the 0/1-0/1-0/1-2 is in 2 inch.
2 2-2-2-4 wires are in a 2 inch
and 3 2-2-2-4 are in 2.5 inch
Are those female adapters being used in place of a lockout and bushing?
shitt...
 
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dh465

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Dec 18, 2023
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am i reading this right? torque these 2 connections at the meter to 375lb? im scared to put that much force on this. im going to need a new wrench.
 

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dh465

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looks right to me! it reads right with a dmm!
 

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sparky 1971

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I will post some pictures tommorow once the loadcenter is properly grounded to get feedback if everything looks correct. I have a few questions though.
Im not really sure with how to proceed on making this "legal"
Everything is supposed to be done in a neat and workmanlike manner, the wires are a mess but that doens't bother me since it looks fine when the cover is on.
You really need to lose the female adapters and get locknuts and bushing on if you want it to be legal. Hopefully there is a 2" male adapter poking up through the box that the female adapter is screwed to????


 
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