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Loading Ramp for small garage build?

PI Lvr83

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Panhandle of Florida
Hi, I am new to this forum. I have been reading posts on the side for a while but now I need to "jump in" and ask for advice.

I live in the Panhandle of Florida and we are having a 16 x 24 barn shape garage built in my backyard.

Yesterday, they poured the concrete and noticed the concrete is about a foot higher than the ground.
I am a novice at this as you probably already figured...anyways I am now wondering how I am going to get my boat in the garage once finished without having more concrete poured.
I was hoping to avoid making a concrete ramp as the barn is already too far in my daughter's "soccer practice" area!
My wife suggested we build a wood ramp that is removable. I looked on-line for ramps but all I found were for ATV's.

Are we looking too deep into this, or once it is finished it will sink down a little?!

What do you think we should do, best idea?
Thank you,
Clueless
 
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Red Goat

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If it sinks down a little, you've got a problem!

You could have some aluminum ramps fabricated that would be light enough to remove and store in the barn.
 

theoldwizard1

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The simple solution is a gravel ramp. Pour about 3-4" and compact (rent a power compactor), repeat.

If you really want to keep it flat, you will need removable ramps. You can build you own start with these steel ramp ends

33216_lg.jpg

Depending on the weight of your of what you are putting in there (boat, car ?), 2x12 pressure treated are not going to cut it. The simplest way to reinforce the ramp is build up underneath it with 2x6s placed on the ground across the ramp.

Consider some way to temporarily pin the top of the ramp to the slab. If not, the ramp WILL slide off at the most in opportune time !
 
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keithh2oskier

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Sacramento CA
Who designed a garage to be built 1' above ground level? Why didnt they dig out the ground 1' to pour the concrete. Thats a huge step! and makes moving anything in and out of the garage impossible. I think the ramp idea would be a bad idea unless your have a dingy. Even then its going to be hard to line that up unless your backing it up by hand...

A light gravel angle would work best.
 

akdiesel

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Who designed a garage to be built 1' above ground level? Why didnt they dig out the ground 1' to pour the concrete. Thats a huge step! and makes moving anything in and out of the garage impossible. I think the ramp idea would be a bad idea unless your have a dingy. Even then its going to be hard to line that up unless your backing it up by hand...

A light gravel angle would work best.

Exactly. It sounds like a mono pour and they did not set for an over head door.
Are you in a highly wet location?
 

theoldwizard1

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I had not thought of gravel. That might be an idea as it would still look good. I like that idea, thank you.

2 thoughts on gravel. Crush stone (sharp edges) compacts the best. Round stone (pea gravel, small river rock) does not compact as well, but you can walk on it with bare feet.

I have seen driveways (admittedly not in FL) done with pea gravel and after a year or so the grass will grow back through it, yet it is still a pretty firm base (heavy vehicle will cause it to shift).

Some places in FL have crushed shell very cheap as a possible alternative. (Disneyworld uses this on a lot of walkways.)
 

cyamaha2007

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This sounds like a pole barn,is your final grading done? standard practice is to set the building above grade and feather the barns elevation down to the natural elevation over 6ft or so. Does this building have a driveway or plans for one?
 

NUTTSGT

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This sounds like a pole barn,is your final grading done? standard practice is to set the building above grade and feather the barns elevation down to the natural elevation over 6ft or so. Does this building have a driveway or plans for one?

Final grading is what I was wondering.



Is there still a pile of dirt around from where they excavated to pour the concrete pad ?

BTW, we need pics. :beer:
 
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PI Lvr83

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Panhandle of Florida
Final grading is what I was wondering.



Is there still a pile of dirt around from where they excavated to pour the concrete pad ?

BTW, we need pics. :beer:

No pile of dirt. The only pile of dirt is in the middle where they built up. I think I have a heck of a mess. I added pictures to show you.
 
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PI Lvr83

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This sounds like a pole barn,is your final grading done? standard practice is to set the building above grade and feather the barns elevation down to the natural elevation over 6ft or so. Does this building have a driveway or plans for one?

No plans for a driveway. May have to so I can reach the garage door.
 
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PI Lvr83

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Panhandle of Florida
Who designed a garage to be built 1' above ground level? Why didnt they dig out the ground 1' to pour the concrete. Thats a huge step! and makes moving anything in and out of the garage impossible. I think the ramp idea would be a bad idea unless your have a dingy. Even then its going to be hard to line that up unless your backing it up by hand...

A light gravel angle would work best.

After reading all these posts, I think I have this all wrong. Maybe I can make a grass ramp like the old barns I have seen in Ohio! I should have read more on these posts (Garage Journal) before I paid to have this built.

What an expensive "Learn from your mistakes"!! :eek:
 

JimVonBaden

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After reading all these posts, I think I have this all wrong. Maybe I can make a grass ramp like the old barns I have seen in Ohio! I should have read more on these posts (Garage Journal) before I paid to have this built.

What an expensive "Learn from your mistakes"!! :eek:

A grass ramp would look good, and since it only gets occasional use, should hold up well. Make sure the ramp is compacted dirt mixed with a little gravel to firm it up. Then the top 2" of soil then sod/grass. Make it just a little high to allow for settling.

Jim :cool:
 
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PI Lvr83

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I just got off the phone with the builder and he said a minimum of 8" high is normal for a garage. (Tell me a cat is really a dog 20 times and I may start believing it is!)
Was also told I would have to build a ramp that is a 1 degree.
How best to figure a 1 degree ramp?
I will show you tomorrow with updated pictures - I promise.
 

CNGsaves

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Edit the first post . . . . Go Advanced . . . . Manage Attachments . . . .then add 7 pictures to that first post.

Subsequent pictures can be added in same way to other posts.

:needpics:
 

JimVonBaden

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I just got off the phone with the builder and he said a minimum of 8" high is normal for a garage. (Tell me a cat is really a dog 20 times and I may start believing it is!)
Was also told I would have to build a ramp that is a 1 degree.
How best to figure a 1 degree ramp?
I will show you tomorrow with updated pictures - I promise.

1°? That would make the ramp like 25-30' long! For your use I wouldn't do that. I could see 6-10' max.

Jim :cool:
 

cyamaha2007

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Well your builder sounds like he did the norm. Thats how we set all our buildings up. My shop is 13in above grade due to rock and a 8in concrete pad. You want the building up high and to add dirt around it to make a small island. Just make a dirt ramp thats 6 feet long or so.
 

Wingnut65

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I think you are looking too hard into the issue. Let the builder do his job and finish the project. When all is done, there will probably be a well compacted surface (gravel, shale, earth...) that will make a flush transition to the door sill. Give it time and grass will cover it. Or, if you want the look that 37ford4dr has above a lot faster, hold the compacted fill down 2" from the door sill and top it off with sod. (Don't put sod on top of fill that is flush with your garage door or you will be holding water from draining out the of garage.)

In the end, the little rise to the garage door will never be noticed. It is done every day and is never noticed. The finished grade must be 6-8" below the floor slab to keep water out of the building, but grade at all doors must be flush with the slab or include steps.
 
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PI Lvr83

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Thank you to everyone with advice and comments. I learned a lot from this forum. I will now sit back and watch my garage being built with the confidence that it will turn out right.
 
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PI Lvr83

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I checked the progress last Friday and found they were going to put up a Gable roof instead of my "barn" roof. I stopped the progress and called the company! I was told on the contract I had "Gable". I told them,"you are the experts...you tell me a barn roof is a gable and I will go along with you!" The representative luckily remembered that I did want the barn type roof; Cape Roof.

Today, they are finishing what they started on Friday. Hopefully, when I get home today I will have my barn type roof!!

View media item 30187
 

bgarrett

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Who designed a garage to be built 1' above ground level? Why didnt they dig out the ground 1' to pour the concrete. Thats a huge step! and makes moving anything in and out of the garage impossible.

A light gravel angle would work best.

I put my slab 12" above ground level so I never have to worry about water getting in my garage. Level would be a bad idea.
Its not a huge step. Dirt is the obvious solution. I used dirt for a ramp about 30 feet long. Crushed rock on top of the dirt,. It works so well that I have pushed cars into my garage by hand
 
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PI Lvr83

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***** not being able to watch the build. Was supposed to be 8 foot above frame for the roof. They built 4 foot. Too much trouble to change.

I sort of like it ...as it would be easier to insulate...look better in my neighborhood...make it easier to sell my house with a nice garage versus a hugh barn...maybe the hurricane winds will blow over it!... look like a little cottage......View media item 30201
 
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