Lockout solutions....

[mypov]

So, I did my second "break" in today, and it literally was a break in, dammit! It was an old 2000 hyundai accent. My boss asked me to just do this quick on my way home after work as he forgot about the call. Reluctantly I accept and set out on my venture. We have the mac break in kit, I think it's the basic one (don't know if that matters). So I turn to the year/model of vehicle and refer to 17A . . . I inset the wedge then the tool. Immediately I know this isn't going to be easy. I was not able to move the tool towards the front of the vehicle as suggested, where once at the front of the door one should be able to twist the tool and touch the unlock button.

So I tried and tried, was not able to slide the tool towards the front...I got the part of the tool inside the vehicle but for whatever reason couldn't budge it. I had decided that this was beyond my ability as I felt like I was going to do damage...So I tried to pull the tool out, I was moving the tool, trying to get it to meet the weather stripping on the inside of the vehicle so I could remove the tool from the car...Then **** the window shatters into a million tiny little pieces.

I hate break ins...

Anyone have any suggestions at how to get better at this, and how not to break windows?
Thanks in advance.

 

[RECox286]

It really helps if you have some experience with repairing the

various pieces of the inside of the door (having the inside trim

panel off gives you a much better idea of where and what you

have to get to...obviously). Old age and experience wins over

youth and ignorance every time.

Uncle Bob

 

[pearltsi]

get a air bag one, they work better than the wedge. Less movement the better.

http://www.awdirect.com/inflatable-air-wedge-aw-direct-winbag-aw-logo/wedges/

 

[kindyr]

I keep a $3 camp fork in my truck, along with a couple flat blade screw drivers. Use the screwdrivers to pull the top of the door away from the body of the car enough to slip the fork in. Wiggle it towards the front of the door and bend as nessasary to get to the unlock button. And since I have other camp gear in the truck, it doesn't stand out as a "break in" tool. Their cheap, bend well and have enough strength to apply pressure to the switch. I've used them on a car without auto door locks, and was able to get it. It was just harder. There may be some paint scrapes, but I'm typically doing it for people with cars that aren't pristine to start.

I never go through the window and fiddle with the mechanism. Going between the door and the body allows me to see what I'm doing. Depending on the car(and my luck) 30 seconds to 5 minutes. I'd guess I've done 30ish cars over the last five years or so.

 

[MoToys]

I keep a $3 camp fork in my truck, along with a couple flat blade screw drivers. Use the screwdrivers to pull the top of the door away from the body of the car enough to slip the fork in.

That's a surefire way to damage the car.

I buy all my car opening tools from hightechtools.com. They are made well and work well.

 

[sickboy motors inc.]

Agree with pearltsi the inflate a wedge is the way to go-no jamming back and forth.blindly in the frame. Also.I could be wrong but I believe the.newer kits have the glow in the dark canary pole.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

I usually have to get into big trucks, but do some cars as well...whatever ends up locked up in front of our shop with keys inside. I have a guy at work who used to be in towing that always goes for the slim-jim down the door glass routine like he's a "pro". I give him a few minutes and when he gets frustrated, I pry the top of the door with an inflatable wedge and then stick one of the long rods (have an assortment of steel stock and one of those 6 foot long plastic coated t handles / hooks) I keep handy down through the gap to do anything anything from hooking the door handle to jabbing the power lock button - sometimes I reach all the way across the vehicle to the other door - just depends on the vehicle - sometime even the plain old coat hanger works best.
It can be done fine with no damage if you take your time and don't be jabbing around like mad. Slip something in the door to protect the paint in the door jamb if needed.

 

[jdl25]

The key is to jack the door open enough that your rod has clearance. After that its easy. You may have to bend the rod some to get the perfect shaped tool and then you can hit the unlock button. Some Chevy's wont recognize the unlock button in this situation and you have to slide the manual unlock lever. For big trucks I stand on a 5 gallon bucket to improve my reach/vision. The hardest cars are the ones where the window is the top of the door (like a convertabile) and it goes up into the roof when you shut the door...use caution.

 

[richfinn]

I use an air wedge and an old pop bottle with the ends chopped off to stop the lockout tool doing any damage to the weather strip etc.

If they have rear wind down windows I have a tool to crank the handle.

If they have a frameless window I carefully peel the seal open to free the drop glass with the wedge.

Sometimes I back feed the reverse lamp switch supply wire with a jump pack to get the ignition on and wind down the electric window.

I also use one of the kits electricians have for pulling wires under floor boards which screw together and have a hook on the end, these work well for fishing the keys out of the car (I have even managed to open bags and coat pockets and retrieve the keys)

I ought to post up my home made tools really

 

[EvilWelder]

I made a "Big EZ" from stainless and I can get in to just about anything. If you want to buy lock out tools try http://www.awdirect.com/auto-door-tools/

 

[cdseven95]

You were using a inflatable wedge? I can do almost any car with that.. I bend the rod of the tool to get it where I need.

The more difficult cars are the ones with no window frame that are tight... Like BMWs

 

[mypov]

You were using a inflatable wedge? I can do almost any car with that.. I bend the rod of the tool to get it where I need.

The more difficult cars are the ones with no window frame that are tight... Like BMWs

Was not using an air wedge...I was using the cheap plastic wedges that come with the kit. But I've since bought 2 air wedges...thing is, the instructions said to remove the wedge after the tool was inside...I think the instructions might be not so thorough.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[aaron f100]

If you are in a position that requires you to do a lot of lock outs, I would highly recommend getting a AAA lockout manual. As a former tow truck driver this manual saved me countless times. The manual covers most makes and models and provides some prudent information like the location of side impact sensor(ie read this as settng off he airbags) and the proper technique to gain access to the vehicle (window entry vs frame entry). The type of Slimjim is also important. My preference was the style that had 5-6 half round notches on one side compared to the standard Slimjim that only has the one L shaped slot towards the bottom. Also for future reference any frame entry should be done using an airbag since the wedge has a tendency of tearing the weather stripping and bending the door at the point of insertion.

 

[jrlp]

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[jrlp]

I've opened about 15 cars this year. I've never bought a tool for it. I used 2 or 3 screwdrivers wrapped in electrical tape and some 3/32 308 tig rod. I have 5 of them with different style bends. I use a 7" knippex cobra on the end to twist/turn/pull. I've opened cars locksmiths refuse to try in under 5 minutes.

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