loctite for control joints?
- Thread starter rpm911
- Start date
This one looks like it takes longer to cure, but should work fine.
Sealant skins within 24 hours, is functional within 3 days and reaches full cure in about 1 week.
I was looking at this one originally:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/17/40/pss_seal_ap/overview/Loctite-Polyseamseal-All-Purpose.htm
Sealant skins within 24 hours, is functional within 3 days and reaches full cure in about 1 week.
I was looking at this one originally:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/17/40/pss_seal_ap/overview/Loctite-Polyseamseal-All-Purpose.htm
nate379
Banned
That is what I used. I call it PL Premium though, didn't know Loctite made it.
Word of caution, fill crack not to top, leave about 3/8". It expands and will make a mess if you fill flush.
Word of caution, fill crack not to top, leave about 3/8". It expands and will make a mess if you fill flush.
Edger
Well-known member
Make sure you use a backer rod for a proper result as they say in the Loctite page - not suitable for "Joint depths greater than ½" without the use of a backer rod". If you do not, the sealant may tear along the side or through the middle, but if it does the joint will still be mostly sealed off and it is not such a big deal for a garage unless you are wanting perfection. Joints are normally sealed after coating.
Backer rod is a round rod usually of polystyrene that is pushed down into the joint leaving about 3/8th inch depth for small joints - there is a chart of the depth vs. size of rod. You then apply the sealant on top and use your finger to smooth it out below the top of the concrete. It should stick to epoxy, but no guarantee.
Technically, you should cut the joint after epoxy coating with a diamond saw to expose fresh concrete, then apply a primer if necessary to the sides of the joint and then apply the sealant after the backer rod is inserted, but who the hell is going to do that for a garage? Just letting you know what is done in industrial applications.
The sealant has to squash when the temperature is high and stretch when the temperature is low because the slabs come together and spread apart with increases and decreases in temperature. The backer rod limits the thickness of the sealant so that it will stretch and it gives it a semi circle profile at the bottom and your finger gives it a roughly semi circle profile at the top. This gives the sealant the ability to stretch without splitting. If it is applied into the joint in a square profile top and bottom it will tend to tear and split when stretched. Polyurethane is the most common type of joint sealant.
An explanation can be seen at http://www.sika.com.au/cmc/Datasheets/tds/SikaflexConstruction_tds.pdf and if you apply after coating be very careful not to make a mess.
Sealing joints sounds good, but it is a fiddly job.
Backer rod is a round rod usually of polystyrene that is pushed down into the joint leaving about 3/8th inch depth for small joints - there is a chart of the depth vs. size of rod. You then apply the sealant on top and use your finger to smooth it out below the top of the concrete. It should stick to epoxy, but no guarantee.
Technically, you should cut the joint after epoxy coating with a diamond saw to expose fresh concrete, then apply a primer if necessary to the sides of the joint and then apply the sealant after the backer rod is inserted, but who the hell is going to do that for a garage? Just letting you know what is done in industrial applications.
The sealant has to squash when the temperature is high and stretch when the temperature is low because the slabs come together and spread apart with increases and decreases in temperature. The backer rod limits the thickness of the sealant so that it will stretch and it gives it a semi circle profile at the bottom and your finger gives it a roughly semi circle profile at the top. This gives the sealant the ability to stretch without splitting. If it is applied into the joint in a square profile top and bottom it will tend to tear and split when stretched. Polyurethane is the most common type of joint sealant.
An explanation can be seen at http://www.sika.com.au/cmc/Datasheets/tds/SikaflexConstruction_tds.pdf and if you apply after coating be very careful not to make a mess.
Sealing joints sounds good, but it is a fiddly job.
Maybe I'm wrong but it sounds like your describing the procedure for going over the top of the epoxy... I've actually put it down and will be going over the sealer with the epoxy... It won be perfect of course, but easier to squeegee and keep the floor cleaner.
Hi,
I just did my new 40x72 garage using this product. I had over 400 ft of saw cut control joints to fill. They were about 3/16 wide and 1" deep and I tried to fill the bottom with backer but couldn't find anything small enough to work. I ended up just filling the crack and it worked out just fine. I put down 2 costs of Amorpoxy and a clear coat and it looks great. I used about 50 tubes of the loctite Caulk but it's done and looks great.
I just did my new 40x72 garage using this product. I had over 400 ft of saw cut control joints to fill. They were about 3/16 wide and 1" deep and I tried to fill the bottom with backer but couldn't find anything small enough to work. I ended up just filling the crack and it worked out just fine. I put down 2 costs of Amorpoxy and a clear coat and it looks great. I used about 50 tubes of the loctite Caulk but it's done and looks great.
nate379
Banned
Holy cow! The PL I bought was $7 or 8 a tube. The cost for 50 tubes would be more than I spent on doing the whole expoy floor in my garage!
Just put the backer rod stuff in and cut the tip of the loctite concrete/masonry caulk stuff above and i figured it might self level but stayed stiff and didn't know how to make it fill in nice and smooth???
I tried tapping it down with wet fingers but doesnt smooth out for anything. I
Ideas?? Tricks?
Im trying to put in tonight and epoxy in about 36 hrs.
I tried tapping it down with wet fingers but doesnt smooth out for anything. I
Ideas?? Tricks?
Im trying to put in tonight and epoxy in about 36 hrs.
nate379
Banned
The PL I used was self leveling. There is 2 kinds, leveling and non. Did you buy the wrong stuff?
Edger
Well-known member
Like I said it is fiddly. If you seal the joints before the epoxy then the epoxy will crack on top of the joint in summer when it heats up and expands. This is much less inside a garage than say the pavement outside so it is not always a problem. So it should be done after the epoxy. It is a cow of a job if you are not experienced, the jointing specialists have a wheel that pushes the backer rod down a certain distance and they know just how much sealant to squeeze into the joint and give it a finger wipe, but it is below the surface not level with the top so when you finger the top of the sticky stuff it is all contained within the joint and does not spread over the top and make a terrible mess of the epoxy job.
Used to hate doing it personally.
nate379
Banned
I epoxied over mine and it never cracked yet. I did my floor about 3 years ago.
Edger
Well-known member
That is good to know.
Well went back and bought 10 tubes of the sikaflex self leveling stuff and pumped it into the cracks.. 24hrs later it is setting up nice. I can feelmthe backer rod squish a bit under the caulking but im sure that will change as it stiffens up more..
Way better product then the loctite but i didnt have the self leveling stuff either so who knows..
Now after it has cured a bit is there any ideas how to file or sand down the caulk a bit to get rid of the slight lip it has to get a more seamless joint? Im sure the epoxycoat will bE decently thick and cover some stuff but while im already huge into the labor a few more steps to get it even better for the forever investment seems worth it
Way better product then the loctite but i didnt have the self leveling stuff either so who knows..
Now after it has cured a bit is there any ideas how to file or sand down the caulk a bit to get rid of the slight lip it has to get a more seamless joint? Im sure the epoxycoat will bE decently thick and cover some stuff but while im already huge into the labor a few more steps to get it even better for the forever investment seems worth it
nate379
Banned
Very sharp floor 4" or 6" floor scraper, though it's ALOT easier to not fill it flush, just slightly under cause it's not that easy to trim down.