Loft access thoughts?

[av8bpilot]

Readers,
I was hoping to crowd source some loft access solution ideas. I have an overhead storage area in the forward portion of my 20x40 garage that will be used for longer term storage of stuff like Xmas decorations, etc…

Eventually, I think I’d like a hoist setup with a little platform that will raise Rubbermaid containers and such, but that’s far down the road. The door sill is 9’8” from the floor, so a 10’ ladder would work, but I’d like to do something more ‘integrated’ and clean, and I don’t have any other use for a 10’ ladder, so…

Thoughts / ideas? I want to maintain a clear access between the front and rear of the garage. Any input is appreciated.

 

[Zeke]

For light loads how about an eyebolt above the door opening. You don't need a winch, just a pulley and some rope that you can tie off. A small landing to either side would help a lot.

 

[CraigStu]

I used a 10ft step ladder for my garage attic access. I rigged it so I could collapse it, tie the bottom ends together w/ velcro and pull the bottom up to the ceiling w/ rope and pulley. I was also able to quickly disconnect it completely for other uses. Next house had fold down attic steps. Wow, what **** they were compared to my ladder. The steps were narrow so I would place my foot so the step was in my arch. OK fine, until the top 3-4 steps that had the plywood that hid the ladder when not in use right at the foreward edge of the steps. Now I am on tiptoe on these 3-4 inch deep steps. Hated that thing. So, if you don't want to buy a ladder, be sure whatever you build has reasonably deep steps.

 

[driftpin]

In a traditional attached 2-car garage, I had built a loft over the back-half of the footprint, it's ~7 ft height under the loft floor joists, and while it isn't stand-up height in the loft, it's close to 5 ft height at the ridge, tapering to about 2-1/2' at the sides.

I came up with a jib crane modified with a 120V HFT electric winch rated at 2,000 lbs. The loft was designed by an engineer to support a car's weight, but of course, there isn't any way to get it up there. However, I do use it for storage of motorcycle components, including complete engines, about 240 lbs. each.

I use an 8 ft. A-frame ladder to get up there, no stairs, to preserve open space in the garage. The wood beam in the front, covers a 1/2" wall thickness steel box beam 4" X 8" welded to flitch plates set into 24" X 8" concrete column beams of the CBS walls which run from the top of wall concrete tie beams to the concrete footers. I know where we're going to be taking refuge in the event of a hurricane.



The jib crane swivels 360 degrees.

I've lifted 400 lbs as a test, and it was like there was nothing on the cable, up/down.

 

[ycgoat]

A metal rolling ladder might be the safest temporary access, for a hoist I would try to put a swing arm in over the door

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Hmm....didn't even know this existed, but IIWY I'd see if they make on that would fit. I just did a google search for "spring loaded steps loft". When I bought my house, which has a barn with a loft out back, I never was able to use the loft until I built stairs up to it. Access via ladder is such a PIA that I just left the loft empty rather than messing with it. Finally broke down and built a real stair case, but that isn't an option for you. However, this might be.

 

[Imatk]

I went through a somewhat similar situation. I had a loft that could only be accessed via ladder. And it was a pain... but MOSTLY it was a pain because I had to access it a lot.

If you're going to only be up there once a year, just buy a ladder and be done with it.

I looked into solutions like the one above that HoosierBuddy posted but those are rickety as hell when you're talking about not only going UP a fairly high distance, but also carrying stuff up that distance.

I eventually wound up extending the loft to my stairs so I could access it. But again that's because I'm up there all the time getting stuff. If it was just Christmas stuff I'd just buy a ladder and then stow it somewhere until the next holiday season.

 

[av8bpilot]

I went through a somewhat similar situation. I had a loft that could only be accessed via ladder. And it was a pain... but MOSTLY it was a pain because I had to access it a lot.

If you're going to only be up there once a year, just buy a ladder and be done with it.

I looked into solutions like the one above that HoosierBuddy posted but those are rickety as hell when you're talking about not only going UP a fairly high distance, but also carrying stuff up that distance.

I eventually wound up extending the loft to my stairs so I could access it. But again that's because I'm up there all the time getting stuff. If it was just Christmas stuff I'd just buy a ladder and then stow it somewhere until the next holiday season.

That’s where I find myself landing. A 10’ ladder is a lot cheaper and likely more stable than any pullout ladders like above, not to mention useable elsewhere. It will be only for things like Xmas decor and rarely needed things, so daily access isn’ta concern, just safety of getting totes up and down. Someday when I’m bored and wanna tackle it, I’ll put an electric winch on the ceiling with a little platform, but for now I think the ladder will do.

Thanks everyone for the input.

 

[CraigStu]

Get your self some clear plastic smooth bottom storage totes. Make a 5ft long shephards hook w/ the hook maybe 5-6 inches and at a 90 deg angle. Use the hook to push you loaded totes away from the opening but push 5ft minus the size of the tote. Next year, when you need the decorations, pull the tote over to you using the hook while standing on the ladder just chest in the attic. Super easy to do and no need for that transition from ladder to floor. If you find a little more friction than you like w/ the usual osb on the floor, grab a few sheets of hard board to lay on the osb.

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BTW if you find you are climbing up there more often make a quick secure for the top of the ladder. Run an eyebolt into the ceiling maybe 2 inches away from each side of the ladder. make up a short dog leash from rope. Tie one end to one eyebolt. When you get to the top grab the leash type hook end of the rope and run it through the top upside down V of the ladder. And hook it to the other eye. I used that as my secure to the ceiling so I could pull the other end of the ladder up w/ my rope and pulley. But there were a couple times, handling something heavy and awkward, the ladder started leaning to the side. You can put up w/ a wobbly ladder when you know it can only go 2 inches to one side or the other.

 

[Copymutt]

I shouldn't need to quote the high incidence of ladder vs human injuries. Explore a set if exterior stairs.

 

[nadogail]

I installed a pull down folding ladder.

 

[y'sguy]

I have a quite similar situation in my Studio/garage loft. I really thought I would like stairs or a semi permanent access to the loft. Also a jib crane-like hoist. As it turns out I bought a recommended Little Giant ladder. It has been much more useful for other jobs as well and most importantly Very Safe. I never carry anything in my hands up or down the lader. I rigged a simple double pully system with a rope for hoisting and lowering items. Either totes, or I sometimes I use those black plastic crates containers with a harness I made to keep them safe and level to prevent shifting. This turned out to be more than adequate. I am really glad I didn't go to the trouble to over engineer it. I could hoist an engine block up there, but I'm not going to. I have put a v8 crankshaft up there, no problem. Saved me a lot of money over the other ideas and lots of time.
Granted If you need to go up and down regularly you need a safe set of stairs, but then don't make the mistake of trying to carry stuff up and down in your hands.

 

[Joemctag]

Get your self some clear plastic smooth bottom storage totes. Make a 5ft long shephards hook w/ the hook maybe 5-6 inches and at a 90 deg angle. Use the hook to push you loaded totes away from the opening but push 5ft minus the size of the tote. Next year, when you need the decorations, pull the tote over to you using the hook while standing on the ladder just chest in the attic. Super easy to do and no need for that transition from ladder to floor. If you find a little more friction than you like w/ the usual osb on the floor, grab a few sheets of hard board to lay on the osb.

Hardboard Tempered Panel (Common: 1/8 in. 4 ft. x 8 ft.; Actual: 0.115 in. x 47.7 in. x 95.7 in.) 832777 - The Home Depot

Visit The Home Depot to buy 1/8 in. x 48 in.x 96 in. Tempered Hardboard 832777

www.homedepot.com

A slight upgrade to white

1/8 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Eucalyptus White Hardboard 447562 - The Home Depot

Fulfill a variety of craft and diy projects in your home with the selection of this Unbranded 1/ Eucalyptus White Hardboard.

www.homedepot.com

BTW if you find you are climbing up there more often make a quick secure for the top of the ladder. Run an eyebolt into the ceiling maybe 2 inches away from each side of the ladder. make up a short dog leash from rope. Tie one end to one eyebolt. When you get to the top grab the leash type hook end of the rope and run it through the top upside down V of the ladder. And hook it to the other eye. I used that as my secure to the ceiling so I could pull the other end of the ladder up w/ my rope and pulley. But there were a couple times, handling something heavy and awkward, the ladder started leaning to the side. You can put up w/ a wobbly ladder when you know it can only go 2 inches to one side or the other.

CraigStu’s post brings up the much more important problem: Not falling.
At a minimum, I’d secure the top of the ladder. Also, get some metal handles and screw them to the jambs or something. You’re going to want to get yourself up inside there at least sometimes. The hook is an excellent idea most of the time.
Consider a longer ladder ( say minimum 14’ ), but instead of going straight up to the opening, going either right or left a few inches from the wall so that you’re stepping sideways on or off the ladder and you have a good 4’ or more extension to hold onto. You’d need to have a bracket or something to hold the ladder. With something at the end so the ladder couldn’t slip off. And still tie it off. This is what I would do . The ladder is about $250 or less . Say 16 or 20 foot extension ladder.
I’ve installed many permanent, fixed ladders designed by professionals and have worked off of ladders in my trade for almost 50 years.
At a minimum, please do what CraigStu suggests. Good luck!

 

[Viper98912]

I would put in a permanent, rigid staircase that goes left from the door and down.

But in a more Garage Journal fashion, I would put in a rigid, one piece ladder/staircase that's mounted on a pivot at the base of your door. Then it's hooked up to a cable and a winch in the ceiling, where you can raise and lower the ladder as needed. Depending on the complexity, you can make it as wide as you need and even add sides and/or handrails. And then use the handrails to help you "slide" heavy boxes up the ladder.

If you planned on having a lift and this is now in the way, let us know and we can come up with other GJ-style ideas

 

[Zeke]

In a traditional attached 2-car garage, I had built a loft over the back-half of the footprint, it's ~7 ft height under the loft floor joists, and while it isn't stand-up height in the loft, it's close to 5 ft height at the ridge, tapering to about 2-1/2' at the sides.

I came up with a jib crane modified with a 120V HFT electric winch rated at 2,000 lbs. The loft was designed by an engineer to support a car's weight, but of course, there isn't any way to get it up there. However, I do use it for storage of motorcycle components, including complete engines, about 240 lbs. each.

I use an 8 ft. A-frame ladder to get up there, no stairs, to preserve open space in the garage. The wood beam in the front, covers a 1/2" wall thickness steel box beam 4" X 8" welded to flitch plates set into 24" X 8" concrete column beams of the CBS walls which run from the top of wall concrete tie beams to the concrete footers. I know where we're going to be taking refuge in the event of a hurricane.



The jib crane swivels 360 degrees.

I've lifted 400 lbs as a test, and it was like there was nothing on the cable, up/down.

I like that.

 

[BukitCase]

"But in a more Garage Journal fashion" -

One example - my shop started out as a 36x48 pole barn, I built trusses in place and removed one row of poles before pouring the slab. built a mezzanine across one end, floor is 2x12's on 24" centers, 1-1/8" T&G ply floor - under is parts area with shelving around perimeter and MORE shelves creating aisles between.

Overhead is for whatever I can get up there, but needed stairs.

Pics in order - Lower hoist attach (more later), 1100 lb hoist on truss, mezzanine mount, stairs up, stairs down -

Second pic - taken BEFORE the mount holes were thru-drilled and bolted with standard, fender and lock washers.

If you zoom in on the 3rd pic you'll see some "divots" on the bottom edge of stringers - these coincide with the lower 5/8" bolts, so that when the stairs are DOWN they're supported by both the pivot bolts AND those divots (AND the doubled 2x12 header... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Second batch - in order; Jig for making IDENTICAL treads (vertical is 4" stiffener), Stringers (2 layers 3/4 ply w/ joints offset 4', glued/screwed cleats for treads; tread mounts with 2" screws, Removable lift point for no tripping hazard, stairs down. Treads are 12" wide, pitch is 6/10.

I had planned for drop down support posts in the middle of the stairs, but found I could bounce in the middle and nothing moved, Walking on the treads feels like you're on concrete.

Since these pics were taken I added a rail on one side (1-1/2" square tube, ALSO removable for wide loads) - last pic is the underside of lift point, think "trailer hitch"

I've also since added some removable 12" wide "tracks" on outsides, leaves a 12" center for walking and allows pulling a loaded hand truck up the stairs. Jury is still out on the usefulness of this... Steve

 

[2Rocky]

For what you want an extension ladder will serve well enough for light loads. Which might save you from overloading the space...


But then i think of our ancestors solution to that setup....

 

[CraigStu]

BukitCase that is really, really nice. Must be a fantastic walk up those even w/ a heavy object.
2Rocky ingenuity is a wonderful thing isn't it?

 

[BukitCase]

Craig, thanks; yeah, i've been really happy with the way it turned out - before I retired 10 years ago one of my duties was to check on some instrumentation a couple times per shift - part of it was on the 6th floor of one of the buildings - being sorta typical of tech types, I made the mistake of counting the steps ​

There were 94 - from then on I referred to that job as the "Winchester Walk" (model # of my first deer rifle :=)​

​

Sooo, that memory stayed in my mind as I mumbled "never again" while I built this project...

Not in the pics - right next to where the hoist is mounted are my full pressure and 100psi air hose reels (there is NOTHING HARD in my shop that isn't either above my head, on a wall or on the floor) - when I need to blow down the filters, I just walk up one step and grab the hoist remote - voila, instant elevator :=) ... Steve

 

[Viper98912]

"But in a more Garage Journal fashion" -

One example - my shop started out as a 36x48 pole barn, I built trusses in place and removed one row of poles before pouring the slab. built a mezzanine across one end, floor is 2x12's on 24" centers, 1-1/8" T&G ply floor - under is parts area with shelving around perimeter and MORE shelves creating aisles between.

Overhead is for whatever I can get up there, but needed stairs.

Pics in order - Lower hoist attach (more later), 1100 lb hoist on truss, mezzanine mount, stairs up, stairs down -

Second pic - taken BEFORE the mount holes were thru-drilled and bolted with standard, fender and lock washers.

If you zoom in on the 3rd pic you'll see some "divots" on the bottom edge of stringers - these coincide with the lower 5/8" bolts, so that when the stairs are DOWN they're supported by both the pivot bolts AND those divots (AND the doubled 2x12 header... Steve

This is exactly what I was picturing

 

[BukitCase]

"This is exactly what I was picturing"

Well, now you know it's actually doable :=) Seriously, if you (or anybody) wants to steal the idea I have about 45 more pics; just ask... Steve