built 30x40 bolt together building, wanting to build a loft in one end all the way across. kinda know what to do but need maybe some ideas how to do it. I will put 8 posts across then i don't know if i need 2xwhatever for everything else some pictures might be helpful especially the detail
loft in metal building
- Thread starter simco6
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thrifty bill
Well-known member
I would go to a local lumber yard and have them size out LVL for you, and have a lot fewer posts, like maybe one in the middle.
John in OH
Well-known member
What is your total ceiling height and what will be the height under the loft?
onewaydave
Well-known member
If I am intrepreting your questions right? You need to consider the span of the header and joists and the load you expect to put up there. Most of this work has been done and is easily found in texts and tables for rough framing. Don't forget to anchor the posts to the foor.
Most box stores will have DYI books, libraries and book stores too. It doesn't have to bee too up to date except if you use a modern piece of technology.
Lofts are excellent for storage and increasing space, if thay don't collapse.
Dave, by no means an expert or engineer.
Most box stores will have DYI books, libraries and book stores too. It doesn't have to bee too up to date except if you use a modern piece of technology.
Lofts are excellent for storage and increasing space, if thay don't collapse.
Dave, by no means an expert or engineer.
I am thinking of doing the same loft idea in my metal garage. I have never worked with a metal building. If any one has any pointers in installing a loft in a metal build please chime in. Looking for a starting point not sure if it is good to run header boards on the exterior walls and continue to frame in. My main question would be what is the best way to attach to the metal tubing? I consider marrying 2x4 to the metal tubing then running deck screw through the header board then in to the 2x4. this would eliminate trying to find a secure solution to attaching straight to the metal tubing. Any help is appreciated. Pictures of your "METAL GARAGE" loft storage area would be great.
Thanks in advance to any one with input.
Josh
Thanks in advance to any one with input.
Josh
Steroblan
Well-known member
If you plan to use deck screws they will basically support the loft/shelf without any additional weight. Too light.
My Old Tools
Well-known member
I put a 20x30 loft across the end of my 30x40 metal building. Mine is a weld up, 12' walls and an 8 pitch roof, so lot's of headroom. My building guy welded it up out of C channel. I can post some pictures tonight, but it is a double C channel down the middle to split the 30 feet (summer beam) and a 30 footer across the width welded to the I beams. Then a C channel strut up to the I beam rafter peak (king post). Then 15 foot C channel floor joists on 24 inch centers. That leaves it clear span underneath for the entire 30x40.
When u get a chance please post some pictures. This sounds like it might be the way to go.
If u could can u post some pictures so I can better understand . Thank u
I was thinking if I bolted the 2x4 to each metal stud would come out to approximately every 4 ft . I could lag screw my ledger board being a 2x10 straight to the 2x4s ( there would be 2- 4in lag screws in each 2x4). I would also do the same to the side ledger boards. For my front header I planed on using 2 2x10s with a 4x4 anchored to the floor in the center. Then basically build a deck flooring structure with angle braces 2x8 floor joists every 2 ft. Then add 3/4 inch Osb toung and Grove for the flooring. The total loft size would be 24'wx8'l. It will be for storage not a living area. Do u still think the lag screws will fail?
Thank u for your input.
Josh
I was thinking if I bolted the 2x4 to each metal stud would come out to approximately every 4 ft . I could lag screw my ledger board being a 2x10 straight to the 2x4s ( there would be 2- 4in lag screws in each 2x4). I would also do the same to the side ledger boards. For my front header I planed on using 2 2x10s with a 4x4 anchored to the floor in the center. Then basically build a deck flooring structure with angle braces 2x8 floor joists every 2 ft. Then add 3/4 inch Osb toung and Grove for the flooring. The total loft size would be 24'wx8'l. It will be for storage not a living area. Do u still think the lag screws will fail?
Thank u for your input.
Josh
over40pirate
Well-known member
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- Aug 31, 2012
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I would screw 2x4 studs to each frame leg, then attach the ledger board on top of the 2x4's. Attach joist hangers for 2x8 floor joists. 3, 10' 2x10's as ledger board on the other side.
I might use 6x6 for the free standing posts, is I was going to store much weight up there. I've seen 4x4's that were junk.
If I had the ceiling room and room to swing down, I would make a long 1 pc. hand winch raised/lowered, staircase.
I saw one a guy made. It had 2x6 0r 8 stringers, and treads 11" deep. He was going to put a hand rail on 1 side, for safety carrying thing up and down.
When I put my sailboat in my back yard (on lawn) I built a staircase from 2x6's and it was so much easier to come and go, than with a ladder.
I might use 6x6 for the free standing posts, is I was going to store much weight up there. I've seen 4x4's that were junk.
If I had the ceiling room and room to swing down, I would make a long 1 pc. hand winch raised/lowered, staircase.
I saw one a guy made. It had 2x6 0r 8 stringers, and treads 11" deep. He was going to put a hand rail on 1 side, for safety carrying thing up and down.
When I put my sailboat in my back yard (on lawn) I built a staircase from 2x6's and it was so much easier to come and go, than with a ladder.
vonhef
Well-known member
I just built a 30'x4' on the end of my metal building. I chose to weld a 4"x4" beam then use 2"x4" for the joist and weld it directly to the building structure.
The ends of the beam have a 2"x4" column with one 2"x4" at the mid point up to the rafter for support.
Turned out very strong. Pictures of when I was building it:
The ends of the beam have a 2"x4" column with one 2"x4" at the mid point up to the rafter for support.
Turned out very strong. Pictures of when I was building it:
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andersen24
Well-known member
Josh,
Here are pictures of mine. I will get some final pics tomorrow morning. I framed mine parallel to the metal building and used redhead wedge bolts to secure them to the foundation every 48". I did use simpson straps to also connect the wood framing to the metal channeling, but the structure itself would be fine without it......guess I just had some laying around. The shop had a bathroom framed in so that was the starting point. I wanted to have storage on top and underneath I built cabinets for storage. I did make a room off of the bathroom for some other stuff. Everyone excuse my lack of knowledge of terminology. I can build stuff, but have no clue what the trade names are usually
Here are some pics of the shop when I started:
Here are some during -
The bathroom adding insulation
And this is what the top looked like sheeted:
And the stairs going up to the loft:
I will take some tomorrow so you can see the final product as well as some dimensions. I have about 10' but the storage and work area I gained was well worth it for me. Main thing I can tell you is make sure it works for YOU and what you plan on doing in the shop.......
Here are pictures of mine. I will get some final pics tomorrow morning. I framed mine parallel to the metal building and used redhead wedge bolts to secure them to the foundation every 48". I did use simpson straps to also connect the wood framing to the metal channeling, but the structure itself would be fine without it......guess I just had some laying around. The shop had a bathroom framed in so that was the starting point. I wanted to have storage on top and underneath I built cabinets for storage. I did make a room off of the bathroom for some other stuff. Everyone excuse my lack of knowledge of terminology. I can build stuff, but have no clue what the trade names are usually
Here are some pics of the shop when I started:
Here are some during -
The bathroom adding insulation
And this is what the top looked like sheeted:
And the stairs going up to the loft:
I will take some tomorrow so you can see the final product as well as some dimensions. I have about 10' but the storage and work area I gained was well worth it for me. Main thing I can tell you is make sure it works for YOU and what you plan on doing in the shop.......
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andersen24
Well-known member
Here are the most recent pics and some measurements. The stair treads are 36" wide and the loft area by the stairs is 6 1/2' wide by 15' long and the rest of the loft is 9 1/2' wide by 25' long. I still have quite a bit of stuff that needs to go in the house up there, but it is a HUGE storage area. Like I said, this worked for me and what my plans are for the shop - it may or may not work for you, but at least its another idea to toss around!
Cabinets I made for under the loft
Cabinets I made for under the loft
vonhef
Well-known member
Looks good! 
My Old Tools
Well-known member
I owe you some pictures of my shop and loft.
andersen24
Well-known member
Hey looks awesome! Good job, and yes you will LOVE the extra space! Looks like woof framing was the winner winner chicken dinner!