A friend built this loft for me in trade for some shop use two years ago. It's 9.5' X 13' and uses 2"X8" for the framing. I was wondering how structurally safe it is. I use it to store lite stuff etc.
Loft that a friend built, how safe?
- Thread starter 930dreamer
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OP
It looks certainly strong enough for what you are storing up there. The only thing I would suggest is that the front beam could be made stronger if the upright against the wall was moved forward so that the channel iron that supports the double rim joist could be attached to it. As it is, it looks like the channel stops short and a few joists are bolted to the channel.
Also, what is the method of attachment at the top of the hanging support?
I've built something similar. I have a little car stored up there.
Also, what is the method of attachment at the top of the hanging support?
I've built something similar. I have a little car stored up there.
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From looking at the pics, it doesn't look like it's going anywhere as long as you don't overload it with a lot of heavy stuff. The only thing that might be of concern is that one support on the corner that goes "up" to the ceiling. That pipe doesn't look too heavy-duty to me. Are the welds on that corner solid?
scooterseats
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- Mar 28, 2009
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My gosh, you could hold a dance up there! That is about the most over built loft I have ever seen! I am surprised the builder didn't use a 6" "I" beam across the front from looking how all else is supported. I would feel safe storing most anything I could lift up there.
pst496
Well-known member
If you are asking the question, seems you have your doubts. If that is the case, nothing can be made too strong.
My opinion, that "c" channel that runs accross the front needs support on both sides. Either from the top or the bottom. And it needs to run all the way accross. It does not look like it does. That is probably the only thing I would change.
My opinion, that "c" channel that runs accross the front needs support on both sides. Either from the top or the bottom. And it needs to run all the way accross. It does not look like it does. That is probably the only thing I would change.
OP
The corner is 3/4 all thread, it's threaded into the "tube". A metal post would help. I don't know if the ledger on the sheet rock wall is lagged to the wall with the first 2x8. I wasn't there during the start of the project. I did get a screw through the finger helping after the fact.
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The two sides in the corner look fine. The platform itself looks fine if supported enough. I have two concerns:
1) the channel that goes across 2/3 of the platform and then accepts the hanger would have been better if it went to the wall
2) I would have done the hanging bar differently. I'd have made it go through the floor close to the corner so that it wasn't resting completely on a 6" long portion of that channel in bending. Secondly I'm not thrilled with how the hanging bar seems to clamp to the ceiling. It looks like it is welded to a flat bar, and then the bar is held by the ends. Would have been better to drill a hole through one of the flanges of that I beam, and put the rod through the hole with a nut. I know it is preferential to not drill holes in the flanges of I beams, but I believe that in this case it would have been better by a good margin.
If that plate is relatively thick though (1/2"?) it would probably be fine, I'm not sure. The other thing you could do is take four 3/8" bolts, drill through the square plate at the top of that bar, also drilling through the flange of the I beam, and bolt it together.
1) the channel that goes across 2/3 of the platform and then accepts the hanger would have been better if it went to the wall
2) I would have done the hanging bar differently. I'd have made it go through the floor close to the corner so that it wasn't resting completely on a 6" long portion of that channel in bending. Secondly I'm not thrilled with how the hanging bar seems to clamp to the ceiling. It looks like it is welded to a flat bar, and then the bar is held by the ends. Would have been better to drill a hole through one of the flanges of that I beam, and put the rod through the hole with a nut. I know it is preferential to not drill holes in the flanges of I beams, but I believe that in this case it would have been better by a good margin.
If that plate is relatively thick though (1/2"?) it would probably be fine, I'm not sure. The other thing you could do is take four 3/8" bolts, drill through the square plate at the top of that bar, also drilling through the flange of the I beam, and bolt it together.
Bigpigdave
Well-known member
The most likely failure point I see is the use of "drywall" screws to attach the joist hangers. These are not meant for the type of shear loads that can be applied by joists. Replace these with the proper screws from Simpson and I think you could put a lot of weight up there. If your hangers are not Simpson check with the manufacturer for their recommendation for fasteners. JMHO, good luck.
Thanks, Dave
Thanks, Dave
OP
We didn't want to drill through beam, although it would be better that way. I'd love to have stairs going up. I already fell off the ladder on the last step(my fault), I caught myself on the ledge, wow that left a few marks.
rhastings80
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Doesn't look very strong considering it looks like drywall screws were used for the joist hangers. Its my understanding that you are suppose to use special nails only for joist hangers. Maybe now there are some speical screws too.
drmoonshine
Well-known member
Like others have said there is nothing wrong with make it even stronger and especially stairs if your still falling off the ladder.
bazzateer
Well-known member
Well, it looks OK to me and if it hasn't moved in 2 years I'd just keep an eye on it.
Sorry, I'll go against the grain and say it looks cobbled to me. The use of screws in the joist hangers, none of the steel appears to match in size, the front pipe/all thread hanger would scare the hell out of me. How is that thing attached to the "beam bracket" ? welded ? The screws through the metal brackets look like sheet metal screws.
I'd pass on that thing.
I'd pass on that thing.
swaterbenny
Well-known member
The only thing I would change is that ugly piece of flex. Otherwise looks good to go. Ben
ForceFed70
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Looks fine for light stuff.
iagsxr
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http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=75811&d=1283346942
The fail point is the plate on the top of the rod.
The fail point is the plate on the top of the rod.
I think it looks alright. The beam clamp is quite innovative. You CANNOT drill through the bottom flange of a steel beam. You can sleeve holes, weld tabs, etc. to the web, but you cannot modify the flange. I would however change out the drywall screws in the joist hangers to joist hanger nails. Also, the lower channel that is hanging from the pipe appears to be bolted through the floor system, and into another piece of channel above. Overall it looks to be built quite solid.
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I wouldn't get ALL worked up about the drywall screws. Sure, they're not that good and I would have used something else. I would even draw the screws out and replace them if I 'inherited' such a structure.
That said, the drywall screw is good for something like 175 lb shear each. So, one end of the of that joist has to shear 6 of them to drop one end. That's 1000 lbs.
That said, the drywall screw is good for something like 175 lb shear each. So, one end of the of that joist has to shear 6 of them to drop one end. That's 1000 lbs.
WNYflyer
Well-known member
Unless I am missing something, the front corner with the hanger rod up to the beam above and channel toed down isn't doing much if the channel isn't spanning and connecting to the side wall in some way.
I wouldn't put anything of any weight up there with the way that corner is. Looks like the only way that corner works now is the channel is torqing the hanger rod since the channel doesn't go all the way across. Hanger rods are not meant to be subjected to torqued (bent).
Move that front support member towards the exterior wall so it is in line with the post along the wall. Get a new channel that can go all the way across and connect to the post or use double wood 2x material with a gap for the rod to go up through and plate and nut the rod at the bottom of the 2x material. And of course connect the double 2x material to the post. The plate thickness where the rod connects is also a very important piece.
I wouldn't put anything of any weight up there with the way that corner is. Looks like the only way that corner works now is the channel is torqing the hanger rod since the channel doesn't go all the way across. Hanger rods are not meant to be subjected to torqued (bent).
Move that front support member towards the exterior wall so it is in line with the post along the wall. Get a new channel that can go all the way across and connect to the post or use double wood 2x material with a gap for the rod to go up through and plate and nut the rod at the bottom of the 2x material. And of course connect the double 2x material to the post. The plate thickness where the rod connects is also a very important piece.
nehog
Well-known member
I would make sure that beam in the roof is rated for that load (when the other loads are also in place, such as snow loads). In most engineered buildings such as this one (which is virtually identical to mine) each loading is computed specifically, and that's an inportant factor. You would not want a roof of snow, a loaded loft, and some bad luck bringing down the whole show!
LocoCoco
Well-known member
I am by no means an engineer, but that looks pretty overkill for a small loft to store Christmas decorations.
LC.
LC.
aqr81
Well-known member
Great comments and suggestions. At the end of the day it depends on what you are using it for and what you are seeing in person, right there. Look over the comments and go with your you gut instinct.
I agree ... I dont like the idea of the Allthread being used as a main support .. even if it is 3/4" I would want the tube over it welded to the plates top and bottom at least.
Other than that it looks great and will work out fine.
I made 1 as a " temporary " shelf 17 years ago from electrical conduit and 1/8" x 1" flat stock and dry wall screws and it has been holding upwards of 400 lbs of wood ever since.
( all 4 corners are hung from the ceiling joists )
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Even if it is a low grade steel for the allthread and the minor diameter is assumed to be less than the minor diameter of thread (notch sensitivity) it should hold 3Tons by itself.... welds and other parts of support do not look anywhere near that sort of capacity.