Log splitter build

[fordbroncodave]

I have everything I need to do a log splitter build.... The only thing stopping me from ripping through it is the configuration of the parts I have.


Someone gave me the whole lifting assembly from a forklift which I was able to salvage lots of thick plates, cylinder, and various lengths of channel. I have 3 hydraulic pumps that I can't identify if they are 1 or 2 stage.


I bought a beam from a local metal salvage, 8X24 is the size, length is 7ft.


I need to cut the cylinder down and reweld it because right now its about 5ft long and does not have an ear on the back to push a pin through it.

The only progress I made on it today was making the sliding assembly which all I need to do is add the large flat plate to the front and a gusset and hole to the back.

Anyone have any pointers on making the splitter wedge? I have 1" steel plate and something a little thicker yet, just not sure how to cut a point into it.

If anyone wants to know, my john deere A tractor is the power plant. I just don't know if I want to take the power from the PTO or add a pump to the clutch drum. Has anyone used hydraulic pressure from the powr trol???

 

[junkman104]

I was going to do the same thing until I found one of these for 325.00 and had a tractor already.

 

[janbuick]

I like this one

jan

 

[finn]

I'm not an expert, but it seems that I recall that the hydraulics on those early tractors are pretty low flow for something like a splitter.

If that is true, the belt would be a preferred, if less safe, option

 

[TractorJeff]

Pressure on the "A" is only about 1000lbs. Don't waste your time
I used to run between two 4inch pulleys on an F12 belt pulley output shaft to make the pressure/volume.
Issue doing this is that the 2 belts would slip on a tough split, hence limiting overall power.
Eventually the Pulley tension on the Pump wore the shaft bearing enough to make the seal leak.
Your only option is to build a oil bath chain drive box to run off from the rear PTO. This way you can speed up the 540 to at least 2000 rpm to get the flow speed/ psi power you want.
When all is said and done, it will be cheaper/economical to build a small engine power splitter. Gas going through those 2 big cylinders will break your low cost project in the end!

 

[MagKarl]

I'd look around for a PTO hydraulic pump. I have one on my backhoe attachment and it works great. My tractor is an early Kubota without auxiliary hydraulic access.

 

[ffjosh]

I have never built one but what I can tell you is you dont need anything over a 5HP engine.

Make sure its a dual stage pump/valve.

First valve is the speed. The shaft/ram will go very fast into the log. The 2nd stage kicks in and delivers the power.

I have used a homemade splitter with a 18 HP engine but only single stage valve. It sucked.

Used a small 5 HP splitter with a dual stage and it worked much much better.

 

[beakie]

I have never built one but what I can tell you is you dont need anything over a 5HP engine.

Make sure its a dual stage pump/valve.

First valve is the speed. The shaft/ram will go very fast into the log. The 2nd stage kicks in and delivers the power.

I have used a homemade splitter with a 18 HP engine but only single stage valve. It sucked.

Used a small 5 HP splitter with a dual stage and it worked much much better.

this ^ is true
helped my father build his last year, he didn't know about the dual/single stage, and only had a single with a 6hp engine.

swapped out a dual stage, splitting cords easy now.

 

[p_mori7]

I like this one

jan

That thing is downright scary.

 

[plow]

Northern Tools

 

[Farmall450]

I would agree on a PTO pump...easiest, most powerful.

Yeah, I wouldn't tap into hydraulics, they can barely lift a disk...

 

[fordbroncodave]

Does anyone know the RPM of the clutch drum on a model A john deere? Maybe I can make a simple bracket and bolt a pump to the engine frame and run a flat belt between the two.


I would like one of those prince PTO pumps but they are so expensive for what they are, if I put my head to it I could make a bracket, find a working ratio and use a much cheaper pump against the PTO to do the same job, only thing is I want the business end of the tractor open so I can switch between the splitter and my no.5 sickle mower.


I want to use my tractor to power the splitter. If it turns out to be very wasteful I could always fall back on something to do at the local tractor days type events splitting wood in front of visitors.

besides, a working popping deere sounds better then a 5.5hp honda under load

 

[Spareparts]

Most cylinder's on forklift mast are 1 way, you will need a 2 way so it will return, also some are 2 or 3 stage. What type of cylinder do you have??

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The tractor hydraulics are designed to be open center, you must use an open center valve with the tractor or risk damaging the hydraulic system.

I doubt a lift cylinder off a fork lift is large enough diameter to be used as a splitter cylinder. The ones I've seen are rather small dia.

Do yourself a favor and go buy one, you will be much happier when the day is over.

Charles

 

[fordbroncodave]

I got it on legs now. It is level in length direction with a slight tilt in the side to side which is fine.

I also fabbed up the slide push plate and bracket which is still up in the air depending if I use my cylinder or go buy one.

The person I got the forklift assembly from suggested I mount the hydraulic pump to the tractor near the PTO and add quick disconnects to it. He also said I should get one of those couplers for over the top of the PTO shaft and weld a sprocket to it. I would be able to use the PTO for other things as well as turn the pump at the same time.


I have a vickors hydraulic pump here with the directional valve built into it but unknown what the specs are. I am thinking I should just go get a 2 stage pump

 

[KEH]

If you are going to use a pto pump, I would mount the pump on the splitter frame and have the pto linkage to it. Nuts to all that fabricating brackets on the tractor and having to remove it for other work.

I once had a JD A, BTW. I also used a mounted sickle mower on it, but it was a IHC, not a JD. It worked, the JD never grunted pulling it.

KEH

 

[fordbroncodave]

If you are going to use a pto pump, I would mount the pump on the splitter frame and have the pto linkage to it. Nuts to all that fabricating brackets on the tractor and having to remove it for other work.

I once had a JD A, BTW. I also used a mounted sickle mower on it, but it was a IHC, not a JD. It worked, the JD never grunted pulling it.

KEH

Yah my A is a workhorse. it takes some grunt for it to pop, haven't done much to make it do that yet.

I think I need to mount the pump to the tractor. I have another use for it once its hooked up. I also have a tubing notcher that does not have a power source so I could back up to that and plug in if needed.

I don't mind the extra work making a tractor mounted bracket. Maybe some day I can brag about it to kids who design **** on cell phones and say no phone was required to make this bad boy


does anyone have a link to a good 2 stage pump on the internet?

 

[junkman104]

Have you checked out http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/ They have a whole section on hydraulics and a build-it-yourself section. Lots of good information there as well.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Northern Tools

That's what I would do for thewedge or another place that is local.


http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_363212_363212


http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_57617_57617

 

[John in OH]

General comment regarding splitter design .... I built a splitter some years ago using purchased components, 5hp engine, 2-stage pump, good cylinder, open center valve, etc., but I built it with the splitter beam fixed in the horizontal position. If I were to do it again, I would design the beam so that it would work in either the horizontal position for smaller logs or could be rotated to the vertical position for large logs. Lifting big logs off the ground an up onto the beam can get to be a real back-breaker. Better to keep the big ones on the ground and split them there. Just a suggestion derived from many days of sore back.

 

[fordbroncodave]

here are a few pictures, forgot to take a picture of the other leg on it.

I was not sure if I want to use 2 splitting wedges or just a big single. I figured if I had 2 wedges it would make up for the fuel consumption of the tractor by splitting more wood in the amount of time but then again a single big wedge would greatly help on versatility.

I wanted mine to be fixed horizontal, we already have a vertical/horizontal northstar unit but the wedge/plate are opposite backwards and is not very efficient in that postion.

Yes it is nice to have vertical to split big diameter pieces however the bending and kneeling and rolling a piece into position is not easy. I bought some tongs and we are going to chain that to the bobcat forks and just lift them on.


pictures...

 

[js289]

use a 2 stage pump!

 

[fordbroncodave]

This is about the best pump for the money I have found, I figure 16gpm is good enough considering my other splitter is only 11gpm and I consider it slow.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...PM-2-STAGE-HYD-PUMP-S21707-5185-9-7972-16.axd

Can anyone tell me how to figure ratio when pairing to the PTO on the tractor, tractor PTO top speed is 540RPM, I could probably get away with running the tractor at half speed, pump requires 3800RPM max for efficiency.

Also I haven't looked very hard for sprockets, I was wondering if there are press on type sprockets with a set screw or keyway similar to a pulley?

 

[fordbroncodave]

do I need a filter on both sides or can I just use a filter on the return low pressure hose? The guy at northern tool and equip said I need 2 filters.

my response to him was what for? its a sealed system with 1 filter. Its not like I have to add hydraulic fluid to it every few days like a car and a gas pump

 

[purplezr2]

I did a screen on the suction side, filter on the return, seems this is the way alot of equipment is setup, but I could wrong.

 

[fordbroncodave]

well the pump failed and I assume it is because of the 303 yellow hydraulic fluid northern tool and equipment said I could use. I went back to the page of the pump and it now says ATF transmission fluid. I always thought transmission fluid was more of a friction modifier then a hydraulic fluid.

Any thoughts?

It almost never went into 2nd stage even on a tough push. It slit everything but never wanted to gear down and push in 2nd stage.

 

[fordbroncodave]

this is absolutely bull ****. I confirmed that the pump only takes ATF under warranty circumstances but the hydraulic cylinder does not take ATF and any fluid out of specification voids warranty.

how are the 2 compatible if they are both listed in the log splitter page at northern tool and equipment? I have to void a warranty to retain a warranty?

anyone know fluid specs if there is something that works both ways, 303 hydraulic fluid does not work because after an hour the new pump is whining again.

customer service told me this is the same pump they use on their northstar units but was not able to tell me what fluid they use.

kinda angry with them after buying 10 gallons of hydraulic fluid now I have to buy even more expensive ATF