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log splitter

brownbagg

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Joined
Mar 20, 2006
Messages
5,208
im building a log splitter, i got all the hydraulic , controls, motor.
My question is about the splitting wedge, Is it a special design item or just a hunk of steel with an edge on it. do i need to buy one or just fabicate one?
 
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Meleon

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Joined
May 25, 2013
Messages
32
Mild steel works fine. I used 1/2". I also welded some wings at about a 30 degree angle 1-1/2" back from the cutting edge to help the split along. I've seen angle iron used to accomplish the same thing. I can take a picture later tonight if you need.
 

gungatim

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Joined
Jan 8, 2013
Messages
8,101
Location
west mich
When I built mine, I bought the wedge from Northern Tools. I still needed to sharpen it with a grinder.

some tips: they say to mount it angled forward a little bit. I did not but have seen it done that way and it does help start splitting easier.

also I added the 2" angle iron mod. you just weld a piece on each side of the rear of the wedge; that way when it splits and contacts the angle pieces it widens the split up faster.

i'll attach a pic of mine when I built it maybe you can see it.
 

kmacht

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Apr 12, 2010
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2,765
Location
Connecticut
The wedge is pushing against wood. No need for a hardened edge. Mild steel will work just fine. The wings are a must in my opinion though. I had a splitter without them and on really tough or green pieces the wedge without wings would get stuck or leave you with a split piece still held together with many strings between the pieces. My newer splitter has the wings behind the cutting edge and there isn't much it doesn't split cleanly and easily.
 
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Boilerhouse

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Mar 20, 2012
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1,320
Location
Muskoka
Here is how I built mine. I also tapered the wedge based on cruising some forums and looking at various builds and also rented a splitter from Home Depot and got some dimensions from it. I built the wedge about 9 inches high but should have made it higher, probably 12 inches.
 

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JPinSTL

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Joined
Nov 21, 2014
Messages
98
Location
Stanton, MO
Probably depends on the design. Old school fixed wedge horizontal splitter or newer hor/vert combo with a traveling wedge and fixed foot?

I've got an old school 15ton horizontal that my folks bought when I moved out after high school and I'm 47 now. It was used then, I now have it, and splits a bunch of red oak and hickory every year. Its got a 2 stage pump and a 6 or 7hp Briggs on it and got to be 35 yrs old. You can lay a split across the grain and it will slice right through oak on the 2nd stage.

The wedge taper is sloped forward at the top so the leading edge is ahead. This helps to hold the round down so it does not fly/push off. It also has wings along the wedge side to help kick out and spread the split. I rarely need to dress the edge of the wedge with a file, but do keep it sharp.

If starting from scratch I'd seriously consider a log lift or at least a side table. I stack about 4 pallets next to mine to use as a table. Roll the big crazy rounds up on a pallet and bring them to the splitter and just roll them over. Beats lifting them.
 
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B

brownbagg

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Joined
Mar 20, 2006
Messages
5,208
my idea is this, have the powerplant tank, control, hoses with quick connect so I can seperate, to use with other hydraulic toys, ( press, sheet metal bender, hoist etc)

all those i have seen was vertical with the wedge attach to bottom of cylinder rod

i want a horizontal with a cradle hooked to bottom of cylinder and the wedge in the foot
laying on ground so I can roll the log in, cylinder push log onto wedge, so no big I beam but just a two foot plus wedge cradle
 

Ton ton

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Joined
Oct 16, 2019
Messages
4,592
Location
Page County,VA
Probably depends on the design. Old school fixed wedge horizontal splitter or newer hor/vert combo with a traveling wedge and fixed foot?

I've got an old school 15ton horizontal that my folks bought when I moved out after high school and I'm 47 now. It was used then, I now have it, and splits a bunch of red oak and hickory every year. Its got a 2 stage pump and a 6 or 7hp Briggs on it and got to be 35 yrs old. You can lay a split across the grain and it will slice right through oak on the 2nd stage.

The wedge taper is sloped forward at the top so the leading edge is ahead. This helps to hold the round down so it does not fly/push off. It also has wings along the wedge side to help kick out and spread the split. I rarely need to dress the edge of the wedge with a file, but do keep it sharp.

If starting from scratch I'd seriously consider a log lift or at least a side table. I stack about 4 pallets next to mine to use as a table. Roll the big crazy rounds up on a pallet and bring them to the splitter and just roll them over. Beats lifting them.
Good idea.
 

RogueFab

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Joined
Jun 27, 2013
Messages
430
Location
Oregon
Probably depends on the design. Old school fixed wedge horizontal splitter or newer hor/vert combo with a traveling wedge and fixed foot?

I've got an old school 15ton horizontal that my folks bought when I moved out after high school and I'm 47 now. It was used then, I now have it, and splits a bunch of red oak and hickory every year. Its got a 2 stage pump and a 6 or 7hp Briggs on it and got to be 35 yrs old. You can lay a split across the grain and it will slice right through oak on the 2nd stage.

The wedge taper is sloped forward at the top so the leading edge is ahead. This helps to hold the round down so it does not fly/push off. It also has wings along the wedge side to help kick out and spread the split. I rarely need to dress the edge of the wedge with a file, but do keep it sharp.

If starting from scratch I'd seriously consider a log lift or at least a side table. I stack about 4 pallets next to mine to use as a table. Roll the big crazy rounds up on a pallet and bring them to the splitter and just roll them over. Beats lifting them.

Solid idea on the table. I hate lifting up rounds over 20" onto mine. I have one of the newer horiz/vertical ones with the wedge on the cylinder. Being able to move it vertical is a must for the REALLY big rounds (unless you're lifting with equipment).
 

Fatboy148

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Joined
Feb 15, 2017
Messages
999
Here is how I built mine. I also tapered the wedge based on cruising some forums and looking at various builds and also rented a splitter from Home Depot and got some dimensions from it. I built the wedge about 9 inches high but should have made it higher, probably 12 inches.

Very nice job!


A taller wedge would also allow for a cross wedge to be dropped over to create a four way splitter on large stuff.


ETA....
On mine, I have different size spacers so the height of the cross wedge can be adjusted.
 

Fatboy148

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 15, 2017
Messages
999
Like was said, look at the designs of the larger professional splitters and steal some of their design ideas. I would suggest adding a grated table adjacent to and beyond the wedge so you can rest a piece that is too large to get tossed into the already split pile and needs to be run through the wedge again. If the table has holes in it, it will let small pieces of "stuff" fall through to the ground.
 
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