Long Ball Hex

[rhp]

Hi everyone.
Need you inputs regarding 5/32” Long Ball Hex, for adjusting Harley passing lamps:
1. 3/8” Socket driver vs. screwdriver or T-handle?
2. Individual piece vs. a set?
3. Snap-On vs. SK, - or - any other good brands, (worried that with a cheap brand the ball head may round/break off or that it can strip the fastener head)?

P.S. – thanks to all that chimed in on the discussion of the related flare wrench socket.
RHP

 

[35mastr]

No matter what brand you buy. You will eventually break the ball off. I prefer just a the normal T handle ones. As far as brand. There is going to be pages of different opinions.

 

[rhp]

.... You will eventually break the ball off....

Yes, that is why I wonder if paying the extra buck up front for an SK or SO will provide more tool longevity against breakage & rounding, and thus more value over the long term.

Or, are they gonna break & round no matter what?, in which case I'll get only one needed piece from Harbor Freight.

 

[X1 Mike]

I use a Snap-On long ball end socket driver with a 4" wobble extension to run it up and down. A regular hex key is best for final tightening or initial loosening. Batwing fairing models like yours take a little more finesse than Road Kings and bikes with no fairing. The inboard screw is the tough one but the spot lamp bracket has a hole in it for access.

 

[rhp]

I use a Snap-On long ball end socket driver with a 4" wobble extension to run it up and down. A regular hex key is best for final tightening or initial loosening. Batwing fairing models like yours take a little more finesse than Road Kings and bikes with no fairing. The inboard screw is the tough one but the spot lamp bracket has a hole in it for access.

There's not too much clearance on the inboard screw. I couldn't see how a regular hex key (even the short end) could torque it.

 

[X1 Mike]

It's tight but you can go about one flat of the wrench at a time, thats why I run it down with a long ball. If you wanted you could just use a ball end hex key and use both ends. This shows how much room you have. Worst case scenario if the fairing is still in your way, remove the outer fairing. Three windshield screws, two inner fairing screws two between the forks, and one headlamp plug. This would probably be overkill though but you would get to fool around with your bike more.

 

[Thedroid]

I've never broke a ball end, and i use them all the time. I like the Bondhus protaniums, but I've had good results with the Eklind and Allen brands also. If I can't get enough leverage by hand on something with tight clearance then I use my hollow shaft nut drivers as a "cheater" on the end of the key. If you take it easy then you shouldn't break the balls off. You know it's not the strongest tool, so don't get crazy with it.

 

[makgreens]

when i worked at a bike shop we used either pedros or park tools
and we used those hex's all day long and none of us could round em or break the ball off..and we put some serious torque on those things
im gonna buy a set of park ones...i left my set at the shop i worked at so i need new ones

 

[TopFuel]

A set of Snap-on ball end hex L-shape are roughly $30. I find them invaluable when working on motorcycles. Never broke one. The ball end is excellent for tight spots. I don't know how I lived without them.

 

[daveblank]

I would recommend a socket driver & a stubby ratchet.

 

[-B-]

Bhondus T handles, or Pedro's if you want more grunt force
For L wrenches go PB Swiss good second option if you can find them are Allen allens they area fantastic buy and last a long time

 

[35mastr]

I know all the bike shops around here prefer the stuff from Motion Pro. But I dont know who actually makes them. I sold alot of them and never had any issues with them.

 

[rhp]

Thanks to all for your inputs and especially Mike for his graphic.

I borrowed a SO flare socket & a ball hex driver from a good friend. Things that I learned:
1) The the passing lamps adjustment must have been designed by Senile Generals ... what a laborious chore!
2) The flare socket is a "one use" item (at least on a Harley) & not worth purchasing if one has good friends.
3) The ball hex socket is a good item and nice to have around but interesting enough the long shanks impede access. I like the fact that one can add on attachments such as extensions, universal joints, etc. to the socket as compared to a fixed T-handle. I think that I may buy a Craftsman medium length set for the toolbox.
- RHP

 

[dledinger]

I like Bhondus - they seem to last pretty well.

For bit sockets, I have some - but only use the ball ends on carbs and other light duty stuff.

 

[Bostonbmw]

Who makes 1/4 drive LONG ball drivers ? I have looked all over the place.

 

[mrshaun]

Your snap on guy can make them for you 1/4 long. I do it all the time for aviation and tank mechs. Just take the 1/4inch driver and knock the bit out and replace ti with the long ball. they start at 5/32 and go up to 1/4..... Just ask the dealer to do that.. It takes 1 minute to finish each one

 

[fatfillup]

As far as buying sets or just the ones you'll use, I just buy the one I'll use if the chance of using the others is slim. Take nut drivers for instance. I use 1/4 and 5/16 everyday on hose clamps. I bought one each from mac and they are on my tool cart. Have a cheaper set that I olmost never use but have the other sizes if I need them. Bought a 10 mm mac also for working on Honda small engines. Love them, but can't justify the price for the whole set that I'll never use.

I know alot of guys who like having complete sets of everything and there is nothing wrong with that, I'd rather use the $ on something else.