Long flex-head ratchet: 3/8″ or 1/2″ drive?

[Samuel D]

I’d like to join the modern era with a long flex-head ratchet handle.

But my sockets are not very modern: I have a lot of 1/2″-drive sockets that would be better in 3/8″-drive (this is common in Europe, and the farther east you go, the less they use 3/8″-drive).

I can’t afford to replace all those 1/2″-drive sockets though. Many of them are old Stahlwille and French-made Facom.

I do have the basics covered in 3/8″-drive, minus car stuff like Ribe.

My 3/8″-drive ratchet (yep, one) is 200 mm (under 8″) long and my longest 1/2″-drive ratchet is 265 mm (10-1/2″) long.

Both feel short. So I use breaker bars for length and access (flex head).

What should I choose for my only long flex-head ratchet: 3/8″-drive or 1/2″-drive?

I might end up getting a long non-flex ratchet in the other drive size.

Do you tend to prefer flex-head handles in one drive size and non-flex in another?

 

[CS454]

3/8" long flex and 1/2" non flex would be my vote.

 

[nadogail]

There are adapters that will allow a 3/8 ratchet to turn 1/2" drive sockets.

 

[drtyler]

I rarely use long 3/8" flex, but often use long 1/2" drive flex.

Most used 3/8" ratchet is 10" non-flex.

 

[LWB]

OP What are you working on mostly?

Engine bay 3/8"

Suspension, lug nuts, etc 1/2"

 

[kbeefy]

Both.

My most used ratchet is an impact driver.
My second most used ratchet is a 18" 3/8 flex head, but it's very high end.

 

[WWheeler]

My most used ratchets are flex or swivel heads of all sizes. I couldn't say which size I use the most, as it depends on what I'm working on, but by far my most used 'long handle' ratchet is the 26" long Snap-on SHLF80A 1/2" dr flex head. Any time I can't easily get an impact to something, like a caliper or caliper bracket, it's a monster of a breaker bar / ratchet that makes quick and easy work of it. I got this ratchet back in 2015-2016 or so and I've hung all my weight on it and power lifted on it's handle countless times with everything I've got and it still works just like it did on day one. Worth every penny and then some.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Get both! Welcome to Garage Journal!

 

[Kuma601]

In GJ manner you know that having both is going to come up. In terms of expense I'd say get the 1/2" since the 1/2" size you mention you have more of.

I use 3/8" the most so I have more 3/8" drives.

 

[charbar]

I use both regularly. I work on automotive and ag/heavier machinery every day and I use a 3/8 flex just as much as a 1/2 flex. 3/8 will do most auto stuff, 1/2 mostly for the machinery, but I use both all the time on either (make sense? )

 

[bcradio]

3/8 ratchet and sockets

 

[jonesg]

get em all.

 

[theoldwizard1]

3/8" long flex and 1/2" non flex would be my vote.

Concur !

But ALL of my 1/2" drive stuff (including 2 breaker bars AND the HF extra long breaker) are now in the bottom drawer of my rollaway. I have not used them in years !

 

[Samuel D]

OP What are you working on mostly?

Engine bay 3/8"

Suspension, lug nuts, etc 1/2"

Basic home DIY. All sorts of things at a rural summerhouse, from irrigation pumps to lawnmowers to garage doors. Bicycles. Motorcycles. Routine car maintenance, but nothing too adventurous at the moment (I don’t have space to leave a car sitting if I can’t get it driveable in one session). We plan to buy a house in a few years, and I have high hopes for that including building a small boat.

What’s more, while waiting to buy that house, our savings are being eaten alive by inflation. Seems like a good time to buy tools for the next 40 years. I wish I had bought more things about three years ago when prices were significantly lower on a lot of the things I’m looking at now … like long flex-head ratchets. Gah.

All that said, I’m frugal by nature and not a pro mechanic. So I have no interest in owning a drawer full of ratchet handles.

 

[Samuel D]

3/8" long flex and 1/2" non flex would be my vote.

Any particular reason?

 

[LWB]

I think you could get away with a 3/8" If you get stuck a cheap 1/2" won't break the bank.

Buying anything now seems like you're getting gouged/making a mistake...I'm doing it anyways lol

I bought plenty a few years ago that I could could do better on now if selling. Especially, cars and parts. Tool boxes too. They seem to have almost doubled in price.

 

[Samuel D]

I rarely use long 3/8" flex, but often use long 1/2" drive flex.

Why?

Trying to get a feel for the reasons people choose one over the other in the real world. Clearly both drive sizes can be useful in various situations. And sometimes either drive size works about as well. But other people’s experiences are useful to me.

 

[Samuel D]

Buying anything now seems like you're getting gouged/making a mistake...

Know what you mean. But the reason I didn’t get this stuff three or four years ago (when I had a bit of spare cash) was that it felt expensive then. Look where that thinking got me.

Not looking forward to prices in another four years. (For readers from four years in the future: today Snap-on lists the FLLF80 at $203.50 and the FLF80A at $173.00 (US prices).)

 

[LWB]

You're going to get a different answer from everyone. I only use a 3/8" flex lol

Everything in 1/2" is done with an impact.

 

[Samuel D]

Everything in 1/2" is done with an impact.

I have an unreasonable dislike of power tools. (Hobbyist dilettantes can afford that stance.)

Anything I can do without electric (or, worse, air), I do by my own glad effort.

 

[LWB]

I have an unreasonable dislike of power tools. (Hobbyist dilettantes can afford that stance.)

Anything I can do, I do by own glad effort.

I hear you but I'm getting a bit older and screw the 1/2" ****!

 

[demarpaint]

IMO it is best to have both. On a budget I'd go with 3/8" Flex first, and 3/8" straight, then add a 1/2" if needed.

 

[Samuel D]

IMO it is best to have both. On a budget I'd go with 3/8" Flex first, and 3/8" straight, then add a 1/2" if needed.

Is there much use for a straight handle if you already have a flex-head? Sounds like you think there is.

I have a Snap-on TF72 flex-head ratchet (1/4″-drive with Dual 80 mechanism). Beautiful little thing. But after getting it, I’ve hardly used anything else, other than a bit ratchet.

Understand of course that it depends on what you do.

 

[Rinspeed]

I live in the rust belt so for me if I had to choose between the two it would be 1/2" all the way.

 

[demarpaint]

Is there much use for a straight handle if you already have a flex-head? Sounds like you think there is.

I have a Snap-on TF72 flex-head ratchet (1/4″-drive with Dual 80 mechanism). Beautiful little thing. But after getting it, I’ve hardly used anything else, other than a bit ratchet.

Understand of course that it depends on what you do.

There is, depending on what you do. There are instances where the flex can become an annoyance, especially in situations where the work is straight on and requires a bit of torque to get things started. That includes a locking flex too.

 

[Dakotadadv8]

I have an extra long flex head 3/8 drive ratchet quick release Craftsman from Lowes. It does come in handy but mostly use standard size non flex SO 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive ratchets.

 

[Samuel D]

I see Snap-on has an extremely long FLLF80 and a just-very-long FLF80A.

What does the A suffix mean?

The FLLF80 head is specced at 11/16″ tall and 1-3/4″ wide.

The FLLF80 head is specced at 9/16″ tall and 1-1/4″ wide.

Does that mean the FLLF80 mechanism is built to take more torque? Is it really a 1/2″ drive ratchet with a 3/8″ anvil or something like that?

 

[bcradio]

I see Snap-on has an extremely long FLLF80 and a just-very-long FLF80A.

What does the A suffix mean?

The FLLF80 head is specced at 11/16″ tall and 1-3/4″ wide.

The FLLF80 head is specced at 9/16″ tall and 1-1/4″ wide.

Does that mean the FLLF80 mechanism is built to take more torque? Is it really a 1/2″ drive ratchet with a 3/8″ anvil or something like that?

As a hobbyist trying to be frugal, I would recommend not going Sanp-On for this and getting something more economical. Almost any brand will last a hobbyist his lifetime.

 

[JeepYJ]

So I have no interest in owning a drawer full of ratchet handles.

Someone is going to get the ban hammer!
Do you have 1/4” drive ratchets and sockets?

 

[Samuel D]

Someone is going to get the ban hammer!
Do you have 1/4” drive ratchets and sockets?

Ha.

Yes. Multiple ratchets of different types from Facom, Snap-on, Gedore, and Proxxon. All the sockets I need. This is the drive size I use most.

I have a Snap-on TF72 that got me thinking of Snap-on Dual 80 for the 3/8″- or 1/2″-drive flex-head too. That TF72 is a pleasure to use.

 

[snickers muncher]

Personally I've found that a 3/8 flex about 12 inches long works best for me.

1/2 is often going to get the breaker bar or impact anyway. I've also got one of the cheap Chinese extendable 1/2 ratchets that come in handy, but I wouldn't make it my go to.

 

[m6z]

Capri has some reasonably priced long and extra long ratchets.

 

[CS454]

Any particular reason?

Fits my use case, diesel tech. On my cart:
- TLL72 (9" non flex 1/4")
- FBF80A (12" bent handle 3/8" flex)
- FLLF80 (18" non flex 3/8")
- SL80A (15" non flex 1/2")
- Matco 88 (24" non flex 1/2")

I typically prefer non flex ratchets if they'll fit but that spark plug ratchet has always been my go-to (ghetto speed handle). If I had to keep 2 it'd be a 12" OAL 3/8" flex head and 24" 1/2 straight ratchet.

 

[paulsomlo]

3/8" flex

 

[Dave455]

Samuel D - years ago, I was where you are!

My only ratchet’s were “standard” ratchet’s in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive. I used 1/2 inch drive a lot, pretty much my go to for automotive work, often with a breaker bar.

I didn’t see the point of long ratchets, since you would probably break them if you used a lot of leverage anyway. But I was wrong.

Sometimes the leverage just reduces your work - for example undoing rusted or stiff nuts, such as exhaust mountings. You’re not using the tool anywhere near max load, but the force needed on a standard ratchet is hard work.

Sometimes you need the reach. For example, sometimes when holding cam belt tensioners a long ratchet is the only way.

Sometimes you need reach and leverage - undoing brake calipers for example. Sometimes you probably should use a breaker bar, but modern ratchets will take a load that would kill older ones.

3/8 or 1/2? Easy - 3/8! I use my 3/8 long flex ratchet more than any other tool now. This Snap On is my favourite. I still have all those 1/2 inch drive sockets, but most times when I’m using them I’m fine with a decent breaker bar and standard ratchet. I do have long 1/2 inch ratchets, but don’t use them often in automotive work.

This Koken is 80% of the Snap On for 35% of the price.


If you’re working on things like bicycles, motorbikes and garden equipment, then that’s just even more in favour of 3/8, if not 1/4!

But don’t think you have to replace all those 1/2 inch sockets. Supplement them with some 3/8 in the sizes you use. If you work on typical euro stuff, you can probably get by with 8,10, 13, 16, 17, and a few hex and Torx!

 

[Dave455]

What’s more, while waiting to buy that house, our savings are being eaten alive by inflation. Seems like a good time to buy tools for the next 40 years. I wish I had bought more things about three years ago when prices were significantly lower on a lot of the things I’m looking at now … like long flex-head ratchets. Gah.

You are right about this. When I first started buying really good tools (Snap On) they seemed incredibly expensive, and they were! All to do with exchange rates.

Over the years things changed, and there was a period when U.S. tools appeared to be good value. On top of that there were some very good “specials”. I actually took the decision to buy some and store them simply because it was all such good value. Fast forward 10/15 years and that turned out to be a good decision.

Would I buy the same today? Probably not. I’d buy a bit just for the pleasure of using it, but not the volume I did. I would buy the things that seem to be good value now, which I think are the German tools - Hazet and Stahlwille in particular, and the Japanese - KoKen and KTC.

One thing I never considered back then was how labour costs were going to rise. Even if you never get involved in repairs, you will soon cover the costs of any tools by doing (relatively easy) regular servicing.

For what it’s worth, I think that the days of exceptionally cheap goods (be it cars or whatever) are drawing to a close. I think in future we will have to become more like our parents or grandparents generations and value our goods more, repairing them as necessary!

 

[Tallpilot]

I see Snap-on has an extremely long FLLF80 and a just-very-long FLF80A.

What does the A suffix mean?

The FLLF80 head is specced at 11/16″ tall and 1-3/4″ wide.

The FLLF80 head is specced at 9/16″ tall and 1-1/4″ wide.

Does that mean the FLLF80 mechanism is built to take more torque? Is it really a 1/2″ drive ratchet with a 3/8″ anvil or something like that?

The head and handle on the extra long are beefed up to take the extra strain. That ratchet obviates the need for a breaker bar.

I agree with you that things are likely to just keep getting more expensive. It's a hard call to just buy one ratchet though.

Like most here I prefer power tools when they fit so my 1/2 stuff mostly gathers dust and my most used ratchet is a long locking flex Snap-on 3/8. So I guess that's what I would get if I could only have one and in your case get an adapter so you can use your 1/2 sockets with it.

 

[Kuma601]

Consider that in these times the inflation is going to keep eroding your purchasing powers. I'm debating consumable supplies that get 1-3% dings every couple months. As these raws get pricier, the end product will be more expensive too.

For me I could round out the kit by going to a lower tier tool that for occasional use would perform the task equally well. Granted a nice ratchet is a joy to use so finding that balance is based on your wallet-willingness.

 

[Samuel D]

I didn’t see the point of long ratchets, since you would probably break them if you used a lot of leverage anyway. But I was wrong.

Sometimes the leverage just reduces your work - for example undoing rusted or stiff nuts, such as exhaust mountings. You’re not using the tool anywhere near max load, but the force needed on a standard ratchet is hard work.

Right. And that makes it safer too, if anything gives way or slips. I try to work carefully but find I’m a lot lazier about pulling the wrench handle safely three hours into a sweaty job than at the beginning. I’m impressed that professional mechanics can work safely for a whole day … a whole week … a year.

3/8 or 1/2? Easy - 3/8!

Yeah, that’s what a lot of you are saying. It’s what my gut says too despite my nice collection of 1/2″-drive sockets.

I use my 3/8 long flex ratchet more than any other tool now. This Snap On is my favourite.

What’s the model number on that one? Curious about the head size.

But don’t think you have to replace all those 1/2 inch sockets. Supplement them with some 3/8 in the sizes you use. If you work on typical euro stuff, you can probably get by with 8,10, 13, 16, 17, and a few hex and Torx!

True! And I already have that and the other basics in 3/8″-drive. I’m mostly lacking less-common stuff in 3/8″ drive, like Ribe sockets, some speciality bicycle and motorcycle tools, a good sliding T-handle (I have a bad one), long drive extensions, a second universal joint would be handy occasionally, that sort of thing. Though my 3/8″-drive sockets are mostly Toptul and Unior, good quality but not as beautifully made as my old Facom and Stahlwille 1/2″ stuff, not to mention my Snap-on 1/4″-drive sockets.

 

[Samuel D]

Would I buy the same today? Probably not. I’d buy a bit just for the pleasure of using it, but not the volume I did. I would buy the things that seem to be good value now, which I think are the German tools - Hazet and Stahlwille in particular, and the Japanese - KoKen and KTC.

I know what you mean and have plenty of excellent Stahlwille spanners and sockets. But I’m less impressed with German ratchets. American ratchets seem to me to be more innovative, more widely available with steel handles (that I prefer), and available in more handle lengths. Koken definitely interests me, on the other hand.

One thing I never considered back then was how labour costs were going to rise. Even if you never get involved in repairs, you will soon cover the costs of any tools by doing (relatively easy) regular servicing.

Oh, totally. You can often pay for the tools and come out ahead after one job.