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Looking at jack stands for diesel pickups

mroneeyedboh

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Dec 30, 2011
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459
I know this has been beat to death for regular cars/trucks but my diesel pick up is taller and heavier than most have in their garage. I, like many, had a set of the HF jack stands which were sent back. I still haven't bought anything but now I need to get something. Im looking at these:

1- US Jack 6 ton
2- Pin style 22 ton (Sunex, Jegs etc on amazon )
3- Esco pin jack 3 ton

1. US Jack seems like great deal for sure. US made, tallest, good lock/engagement, nice flat foot on top. But the edges of the base are going to dig into the asphalt for sure. Thats my issue with these... Maybe get a piece of wood under them for a base, but it seems as if the wood would crush/get cut into like the asphalt. A piece of steel would be better Id assume...

2. These seem the strongest/least likely to fail. Way over rated, nice flat base for asphalt, but the height is short. I dont want to use them at the top height, as it might add too much play/wobble. Can I crib these with 4x4s to get extra height when needed?

3. Seem decent, Must inspect welds when buying, return if bad ( no biggie ), I would need to get both posts ( saddle and flat ) for the passenger cars and if I wanted to lift the truck under the axle. But I dont like the 3 ton rating being closer to the trucks weight. I understand its not lifting the whole vehicle but overkill is better IMO. Rather be over than close...


So all in all, maybe someone has the same predicament as I do or has thoughts on which way to go - Id appreciate it!
 
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AL`

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I use some ACDelco and Craftsman Prof 6 ton jack stands for my F250 diesel. The Craftsman are no longer made. The ACDelco's I got from O'Reilly Auto but I think they've stopped selling them. However, they now sell an identical looking stand branded Power Torque. They have welded steel pads on the feet. They look the same as the OTC 6 ton jack stands.

I used to work on dirt all the time. I just used some wood bases. Actually, 7/16" OSB works pretty good for it. I'd avoid using anything like white pine for fear it might split along the grain. But I can understand wanting to avoid the extra steps of pulling wood bases out every time.

I would go with 6 ton or greater for the height and safety margin.
 

charbar

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How short and tall do you want them to go?

I have a set about like these but they are Napa brand.....
They go from about 28ish inches to 48 inches. I have used them on pickups a few times when I want the suspension at full droop with the wheels off the ground. I use them mainly for holding up tractors.

They do make shorter versions
 
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mroneeyedboh

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How short and tall do you want them to go?

I have a set about like these but they are Napa brand.....
They go from about 28ish inches to 48 inches. I have used them on pickups a few times when I want the suspension at full droop with the wheels off the ground. I use them mainly for holding up tractors.

They do make shorter versions
Too tall. Just looking for tire rotations at most or brake jobs. Thanks though!
 
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mroneeyedboh

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I use some ACDelco and Craftsman Prof 6 ton jack stands for my F250 diesel. The Craftsman are no longer made. The ACDelco's I got from O'Reilly Auto but I think they've stopped selling them. However, they now sell an identical looking stand branded Power Torque. They have welded steel pads on the feet. They look the same as the OTC 6 ton jack stands.

I used to work on dirt all the time. I just used some wood bases. Actually, 7/16" OSB works pretty good for it. I'd avoid using anything like white pine for fear it might split along the grain. But I can understand wanting to avoid the extra steps of pulling wood bases out every time.

I would go with 6 ton or greater for the height and safety margin.
Thanks! Im wondering if those little pads are big enough to prevent sinkage. And for the little bit I use the jackstands I dont mind pulling something out to keep them from sinking... Ideal? No. but trade off I guess.
 

AL`

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Looking around on O'Reilly's site they still have the ACDelco's but they now have to be ordered since they don't carry them in store anymore. Another option is the Hein Werner 6 ton stands. I like the beefy columns they have, but they don't have the pads on the bottom. If a guy had the ability to weld some on or maybe get the local high school metal shop or a welder to do that it would solve that for the US Jack or Hein Werner.
 
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mroneeyedboh

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Looking around on O'Reilly's site they still have the ACDelco's but they now have to be ordered since they don't carry them in store anymore. Another option is the Hein Werner 6 ton stands. I like the beefy columns they have, but they don't have the pads on the bottom. If a guy had the ability to weld some on or maybe get the local high school metal shop or a welder to do that it would solve that for the US Jack or Hein Werner.
thanks on these, but if Im going with the ratchet style, it will only be the US jack ones - their mechanism seems more robust, stronger and less likely to fail. If HW had a locking pin like we're seeing with the imports then they would be in the race for sure!

I was thinking about having someone weld some plates on to the bottom of the stands, but ehh my luck - some how some way - it would compromise the stand... I dont see how though, all you'd need is a tack on each corner.
 

AL`

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Thanks! Im wondering if those little pads are big enough to prevent sinkage. And for the little bit I use the jackstands I dont mind pulling something out to keep them from sinking... Ideal? No. but trade off I guess.

Don't know how firm your asphalt is. When it gets hot asphalt can get a little gooey. The black top road I grew up on was a fine textured asphalt and pretty malleable. Would think these pads are large enough to prevent sinkage though even on that. I don't find using a wood base too much trouble for the occasional DIY work. The soft sugar sand I used to work on I'd use a wood base for even with metal foot pads. I've got several OSB pads I use for the stands and they are handy for other stuff like shimming my ladder on uneven ground. They've held up well and are easily replaced when they finally wear out.
 

samss

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Would purpose built cribbing work for you? I made about a dozen blocks using 3) 10" x 4" x 4" and 2) 10" x 10" x 3/4" plywood. Deck screws to hold it together and a piece of air hose on the side for a handle.
Since you know the optimum height for tire rotation, just build four blocks.
 
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mroneeyedboh

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dscheidt

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Esco jack stands are "3 ton capacity per stand", so 6T per pair.

That's not an asme rating, and selling them that way is going to get them sued. the current standard rates stands per pair[1]. A single stand has no rating, because you're supposed to use them in pairs. (yes, I use single stands, so does everyone.) the reason for that is that is they're very often unevenly loaded, and one stand ends up carrying much more than 1/2 the weight. Thinking "OH, I have two three ton stands, I can put a six ton load on them" gets people killed.

[1] but the test is done on single stands, requiring 1.5 rated load for the pair, with less than a specified plastic deformation. So a single stand from a 3 ton pair is loaded to 4.5 tons.
 

ajchien

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Los Angeles, stuck on the 60 freeway.
How short and tall do you want them to go?

I have a set about like these but they are Napa brand.....
They go from about 28ish inches to 48 inches. I have used them on pickups a few times when I want the suspension at full droop with the wheels off the ground. I use them mainly for holding up tractors.

They do make shorter versions

Too tall. Just looking for tire rotations at most or brake jobs. Thanks though!

The Sunex 10 ton pin design have an even shorter model 1210 that goes from 11-17” height. There are stands of similar design branded by Omega, TCE, Torin, AFF and Stark that may have different specs. One thing to think about - if you’re putting the stands on an axle the lower height should work, but if you ever wanted to put the vehicle on the frame rails you would be at a much higher height due to the suspension travel. I am at the max height 25” of my US jack 6 tons when I’m on the frame rails of my van. Yes, I would worry about the feet digging into asphalt with the US Jack.
 

Mgdoug3

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A diesel pickup truck isn't that heavy. I weighed mine and the front axle weighs 4200 and the back 4000. I have a set I bought from Napa and they're plenty strong enough for 4200 lbs.
 
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mroneeyedboh

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The Sunex 10 ton pin design have an even shorter model 1210 that goes from 11-17” height. There are stands of similar design branded by Omega, TCE, Torin, AFF and Stark that may have different specs. One thing to think about - if you’re putting the stands on an axle the lower height should work, but if you ever wanted to put the vehicle on the frame rails you would be at a much higher height due to the suspension travel. I am at the max height 25” of my US jack 6 tons when I’m on the frame rails of my van. Yes, I would worry about the feet digging into asphalt with the US Jack.
Thanks. Im thinking if I go the pin style route, I would most likely use cribbage via 4x4s to get extra height or even stacks of 3/4" plywood...

The USJacks would also get the same treatment with steel plates under them or 3/4" plywood, although they would need ti every time on the asphalt... unlike the pin style that already have that much needed steel base.
 

ajchien

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On your other jack thread, you mentioned that you wanted to stay USA made if something was not cost prohibitive.

Well, the US Jack is made in the USA. The Sunex and ESCO stands are imported.

Im not going to be mad or shame anyone based on their COO choices. But I do think one should at least give COO a consideration before making the choice to purchase.
 

Xcursion88

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Apr 18, 2013
Messages
785
I know this has been beat to death for regular cars/trucks but my diesel pick up is taller and heavier than most have in their garage. I, like many, had a set of the HF jack stands which were sent back. I still haven't bought anything but now I need to get something. Im looking at these:

1- US Jack 6 ton
2- Pin style 22 ton (Sunex, Jegs etc on amazon )
3- Esco pin jack 3 ton

1. US Jack seems like great deal for sure. US made, tallest, good lock/engagement, nice flat foot on top. But the edges of the base are going to dig into the asphalt for sure. Thats my issue with these... Maybe get a piece of wood under them for a base, but it seems as if the wood would crush/get cut into like the asphalt. A piece of steel would be better Id assume...

2. These seem the strongest/least likely to fail. Way over rated, nice flat base for asphalt, but the height is short. I dont want to use them at the top height, as it might add too much play/wobble. Can I crib these with 4x4s to get extra height when needed?

3. Seem decent, Must inspect welds when buying, return if bad ( no biggie ), I would need to get both posts ( saddle and flat ) for the passenger cars and if I wanted to lift the truck under the axle. But I dont like the 3 ton rating being closer to the trucks weight. I understand its not lifting the whole vehicle but overkill is better IMO. Rather be over than close...


So all in all, maybe someone has the same predicament as I do or has thoughts on which way to go - Id appreciate it!
You're too worried brotha. 3 tons are plenty adequate...
If it's ANSI certified the stands MUST support 1.5 times the rating.
A 3 ton jack stand will support
9,000 pounds safely if ANSI certified.
 
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mroneeyedboh

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You're too worried brotha. 3 tons are plenty adequate...
If it's ANSI certified the stands MUST support 1.5 times the rating.
A 3 ton jack stand will support
9,000 pounds safely if ANSI certified.
totally understand, BUT lol - Id rather have the height over capacity. The new trucks are fairly tall and if I go taller on the tires, that only makes the axles even taller.
 

Tools4Me

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Jun 22, 2021
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Would purpose built cribbing work for you? I made about a dozen blocks using 3) 10" x 4" x 4" and 2) 10" x 10" x 3/4" plywood. Deck screws to hold it together and a piece of air hose on the side for a handle.
Since you know the optimum height for tire rotation, just build four blocks.
That's what I ended up doing, except I only built two instead of four. I don't feel 100% safe under anything else. It might just be a personal thing though, because I also don't feel very comfortable working under a vehicle sitting on a mid-rise or two post lift. I've experienced a couple pretty good sized earthquakes in my lifetime, so I always have extreme stability on my mind whenever I'm under a vehicle.

I made mine the exact height I like to keep my vehicles at when I'm doing an oil change, and that part of the structure was screwed together permanently. That way, most of the time they are just slid as is, under the jacked up vehicle and I'm ready to go. I also cut up a bunch of extra 2x4 cribbing pieces that I lay horizontally to add more layers to the top or bottom if I need to lift the vehicle high enough to pull a transmission or something. I also cut rectangular pieces of old tire tread to make top pads for the wood jack stands, but I sometimes use hockey pucks instead.

I only made two wood stands, because I never seem to need all 4 corners of a vehicle on stands. When I do oil changes, I chock the rear wheels and jack up the front only or use ramps. For work on brakes, I'm almost always doing pads, caliper work, and/or rotors on one axle only, not all 4 corners at the same time, so only one end needs to be lifted.

If I need all 4 corners raised for rotating tires, I put my two wood stands under one end of the vehicle and then I use both of my full size floor jacks to jack up the other end and get all 4 tires off the ground at the same time. Since I never go under the vehicle while quickly rotating tires, I don't usually put jack stands under the two floor jacks, but I do have a couple vintage steel pin style jack stands I could use if I felt the need.

For transmission work, I don't like all 4 corners being up on jack stands at all. Everything always seems to have too much horizontal movement for my liking. Instead, I usually drive one end of the vehicle up onto 7-9" tall ramps, and then I jack the other end up and put it on my two wide footprint wooden jack stands. A much more secure feeling setup for cranking around directly underneath a vehicle for many hours.
 
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MJK

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I have the Escos and the CM Pro 6 tons. I use the CM Pros on the axle tubes for the F250 diesel. I use the Escos everywhere else.
 
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81turbota

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I use pro-lift 6 ton stands with the triangle pin. They’ve held up some pretty heavy stuff to include smaller armored vehicles.
 

FMB4

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None, but the front end if heavy and well I dont want to die twice haha. Something like jack stands, I want them stronger than they need to be.
Never rely on just one type of support/stand (especially if you're going to be under it). Always make use of a suitable floor jack and/or blocks under the tires, etc, to 'backup' the main supports/stands.
 
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mroneeyedboh

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Never rely on just one type of support/stand (especially if you're going to be under it). Always make use of a suitable floor jack and/or blocks under the tires, etc, to 'backup' the main supports/stands.
I dont. But thats also why Id prefer to get stands that are WELL above the rating I would need. I always leave the jack just touching under the car as well.
 

MJK

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Cm Pro? can you link me?

CM Pro = Craftsman Pro. I bought many moons ago. I doubt they are available any more as that, but something similar in a different color is always an option. A perusal of Amazon shows the Torin T46202s .

My point in mentioning it is that it is application specific. I like the scallops in 'regular' jack stands when supporting axle tubes. I like the rubber tops of the Escos everywhere else.
 

drc647

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I have the Escos and the CM Pro 6 tons. I use the CM Pros on the axle tubes for the F250 diesel. I use the Escos everywhere else.
I just purchase a pair of Escos and I noticed there is decent amount of play between the column and the base. There seems to be quite a bit of a gap between the two parts. Is it the same with yours? Not sure if this is normal or a QA issue.
 

MJK

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I'm not sure what you mean. Are you talking about the I.D. of the base tube vs the O.D. of the top support?

Or something else?
 
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drc647

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I'm not sure what you mean. Are you talking about the I.D. of the base tube vs the O.D. of the top support?

Or something else?
That's right the I.D. of the base tube vs the O.D. of the top support column. If you extend it beyond say the 3rd lowest setting then you definitely notice the top support "wobble". Towards the higher settings it seems excessive.
 

MJK

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Mine measure 30.0x and 31.1x mm. Concentricity is pretty good. Pin is centered in both and tighter. I get a little jiggle when not under load (eg carrying them to the car), but nothing I've ever been concerned about.

Not sure how to quantify my jiggle vs your wobble, but if you have ideas I am game.
 

corn chip

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for a while i been using smaller chunks of railroad ties i cut. works good in some situations butill probly get a set of proper us jack jackstands. the cheap foreign stands i want nothing to do with
 

Sumboodie

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A diesel pickup truck isn't that heavy. I weighed mine and the front axle weighs 4200 and the back 4000. I have a set I bought from Napa and they're plenty strong enough for 4200 lbs.
I've used std 6 ton stands on 20-25,000lb trucks without issue.
 

Sumboodie

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Never rely on just one type of support/stand (especially if you're going to be under it). Always make use of a suitable floor jack and/or blocks under the tires, etc, to 'backup' the main supports/stands.
How do you plan on getting work done with 8 jack stands? 🤣
 

RickyPetite

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Check out Gray 3-THF. 6,000 lbs each, 20" height. Pin style, base has flat feet which should spread the weight out on the asphalt. If you want beefier, go with the 7-THF, same height, 15,400 lbs each. I have the 7-HFT (overkill I know but if I'm going to climb under a car...). Unbelievable build quality, made in USA.
 

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drc647

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Mine measure 30.0x and 31.1x mm. Concentricity is pretty good. Pin is centered in both and tighter. I get a little jiggle when not under load (eg carrying them to the car), but nothing I've ever been concerned about.

Not sure how to quantify my jiggle vs your wobble, but if you have ideas I am game.
Mine are 30.0 and and 32.0 mm so that might be the difference. When set at the lower settings, say 3rd hole from the top or lower, then I would describe it as more a jiggle. At the higher settings, the play is something that feels concerning to me.

I just purchased them (as my first jack stands) so I don't know if this is "working as design" or a defect.
 

MJK

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Mine are 30.0 and and 32.0 mm so that might be the difference. When set at the lower settings, say 3rd hole from the top or lower, then I would describe it as more a jiggle. At the higher settings, the play is something that feels concerning to me.

I just purchased them (as my first jack stands) so I don't know if this is "working as design" or a defect.
I went a looked at the reviews on Amazon, and there is a video there posted on May 31, 2020. I don't use mine up that high, but they don't wobble anything like that. I'd guess they are still safe, but I'd have sent mine back if they behaved like that.
 
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