Hi, I'm doing some electrical work on my motorcycle. I need to get some 22AWG stranded wire. My local Grainger carries the Carol brand, the only other place I can find 22 gauge is at Radio shack. Do you think it really matters with one I use? Is Carol a better brand compared to Radio Shack, or is wire, just wire?
Looking for 22AWG wire
- Thread starter jgelack
- Start date
Ryf
Well-known member
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...N1280_-1_3894&keyword=wire&pt=N1280&ppt=C0335
BWD - Primary Wire
Part # PW22R
Line: BWD
wire is wire, kinda, for automotive you want smaller strand generally so it holds up to flexing better.. that would be the biggest concern. its orderable from anywhere, if you have to substitute go to 20 gauge (larger), most auto places will have it in stock in little display cartons in the electrical aisle.
BWD - Primary Wire
Part # PW22R
Line: BWD
wire is wire, kinda, for automotive you want smaller strand generally so it holds up to flexing better.. that would be the biggest concern. its orderable from anywhere, if you have to substitute go to 20 gauge (larger), most auto places will have it in stock in little display cartons in the electrical aisle.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
First, are you sure you want 22 gauge ? Personally, I would use 20 gauge, if possible.
Second, single wire is usually called "hook up" wire. In general there are 2 grades, insulation rated at 80°C and insulation rated at 105°C. If the package doesn't say, well who knows what you have.
Alpha and Belden are the 2 biggest names in this kind of wire.
If the wire is going to be exposed to moisture or you are going to solder it, get pre-tinned copper, sometimes called marine primary wire. Also at 20 gauge and above, consider using solid wire. Less likely to break.
A good place to buy wire is eBay.
Second, single wire is usually called "hook up" wire. In general there are 2 grades, insulation rated at 80°C and insulation rated at 105°C. If the package doesn't say, well who knows what you have.
Alpha and Belden are the 2 biggest names in this kind of wire.
If the wire is going to be exposed to moisture or you are going to solder it, get pre-tinned copper, sometimes called marine primary wire. Also at 20 gauge and above, consider using solid wire. Less likely to break.
A good place to buy wire is eBay.
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retrobuilder
Well-known member
The Old Wizard One is on target, 22 AWG is good for 3A 12VDC used frequently for marine electronics, auto and other uses. A few things to keep in mind. There are pre tin, bonded and bare copper and have a variety of of wire constructions (single strand wire x count per cable) . You need pretinned only as it will weather better.
Small orders of Alpha, Carol & Belden are available from Mouser and Digikey on line in a world of colors and lengths.
Small orders of Alpha, Carol & Belden are available from Mouser and Digikey on line in a world of colors and lengths.
MFolks
Well-known member
Most Japanese motorcycles use these equivilant wire sizes:
1. 18 gauge for tun signals and instrument lights.
2. 16 gauge for headlight circuits.
3. 12 gauge for higher current demanding circuits(like the wire going to the battery from the rectifier/regulator).
4. 8 gauge for battery cables;going to and from battery posts(terminals) and starter solenoid & starter motor.
Marine wire is prefered, as it's strands are individually solder tinned & then made into an insulated wire. The stock wires were untinned copper wire for flexibilty.
For corrosion control in switches and light bulb sockets, I used "De-Oxit" DN5. The website is www.deoxit.com. I've used this for many years on my motorcycle, car, and home electronics for improved electrical conductivity.
1. 18 gauge for tun signals and instrument lights.
2. 16 gauge for headlight circuits.
3. 12 gauge for higher current demanding circuits(like the wire going to the battery from the rectifier/regulator).
4. 8 gauge for battery cables;going to and from battery posts(terminals) and starter solenoid & starter motor.
Marine wire is prefered, as it's strands are individually solder tinned & then made into an insulated wire. The stock wires were untinned copper wire for flexibilty.
For corrosion control in switches and light bulb sockets, I used "De-Oxit" DN5. The website is www.deoxit.com. I've used this for many years on my motorcycle, car, and home electronics for improved electrical conductivity.
nehog
Well-known member
Personally I'd avoid anything from Radio Shack, and go with a better product. Grainger's products are good, of course the recommendation for Belden and Alpha are also good thoughts. You want a wire that is oil and moisture resistant (it will have two jackets, the inner and an outer clear) for this type of application.
If you are near NH PM me and I'll probably be able to get you some wire, however it will be next week before I get over to my supplier.
If you are near NH PM me and I'll probably be able to get you some wire, however it will be next week before I get over to my supplier.
Thanks guys, I will upgrade to a 20 guage wire and stay away from Radio Shack's offerings. Do you think the Carol brand is as good as the Alpha or Belden brands? I can get the Carol wire locally, whereas the other two I'd have to order online. Not a problem if they are that much better.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Nothing wrong with Carol. I think you want type C2040A; 20 AWG, 105°C, tinned.
Carol Wire is owned by General Cable.
As suggested above, use pre-tinned stranded, the standard for marine use. Here's one source (scroll down to Ancor- I have used a couple of thousand feet of their stuff on boats) http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|328|2290011&id=2290012
Monkey_Wrench
Well-known member
Go to your local airport, find an electronics shop, and buy some 22AWG wire. Good stuff!
4 feet will handle 7Amps @14VDC
As stated above, it can't hurt to go bigger, 20 AWG (10A@5ft@14VDC)
4 feet will handle 7Amps @14VDC
As stated above, it can't hurt to go bigger, 20 AWG (10A@5ft@14VDC)
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Kevin C
Well-known member
I usually buy Alpha Wire from Mouser, pretty big price savings compared to DigiKey (50%.)
Nothing wrong with duplicating the factory wire gauge. Especially if you are doing a large harness and it has to fit through openings in the chassis / frame. Stranded wire holds up to flexing and vibration better than solid. When I do upgrade the gauge of wire its typically to handle increased loads ( bigger alternator) of reduce voltage drop to lighting circuits.
Tinned wire is nice but not a necessity. Production vehicles are built with standard copper and don't have a problem and have a very long service life....
Soldering does have its place but the issue is preventing breakage at where the solder stops and you have a section that breaks easily. I use a couple of layers of shrink to immobilize the joint.
Nothing wrong with duplicating the factory wire gauge. Especially if you are doing a large harness and it has to fit through openings in the chassis / frame. Stranded wire holds up to flexing and vibration better than solid. When I do upgrade the gauge of wire its typically to handle increased loads ( bigger alternator) of reduce voltage drop to lighting circuits.
Tinned wire is nice but not a necessity. Production vehicles are built with standard copper and don't have a problem and have a very long service life....
Soldering does have its place but the issue is preventing breakage at where the solder stops and you have a section that breaks easily. I use a couple of layers of shrink to immobilize the joint.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Some one understands !
Why not just twist together (16-24 AWG) and use marine grade shrink tubing ! Flexible, highly likely to come apart.
Kevin C
Well-known member
Its the highly likely to come apart thing that keeps me using **** splices and crimpers or a properly strain relieved, soldered connection.
Seriously, I have hard time trusting wires that are just twisted together and held in place with adhesive backed heat shrink. To meet UL standards at work, I make that type of connection with **** splices and a calibrated set of crimpers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMP-TYCO-59275-HAND-CRIMPER-YELLOW-WHITE-/141019837598?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d56ff49e
This a great crimper for this kind of application... $2300 new, $125 used. PDIG **** splices are avialbie from DigiKey.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2-323994-2/A0913-ND/172595
High grade splices
TOOL MASTER
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