Any recommendations for a new chop saw, I looked at an Evolution that uses a saw blade type blade.
Looking for a chop saw
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aka Larry
Well-known member
I have an Evolution saw and would highly recommend it.
OP
Which one did you get?
aka Larry
Well-known member
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sam.coll
Well-known member
Makita LC1230,more expensive than a traditional abrasive type saw but well worth the extra money. So good to not have to worry about the abrasive powder getting everywhere anymore not to mention quality burr free cuts
bob15
Well-known member
I have this old 14" B&D (similar to below) that I bought for something like 30 bucks on C-list and it hasn't failed me yet. I don't see the need to spend serious money for a rudimentary tool.
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
I have several abrasive saws: Hitachi portable, an Everett, and a Brilliant. I have a Makita toothed chop saw. I used to have a 60 rpm cold saw. ( the best accuracy ever!)
I wish I had a mid size horizontal band saw like a Kalamazoo, DoAll or a HEM . My old bandsaw was the most reliable and cheapest per piece way to cut steel. Not even close.
I wish I had a mid size horizontal band saw like a Kalamazoo, DoAll or a HEM . My old bandsaw was the most reliable and cheapest per piece way to cut steel. Not even close.
txvwnut
Well-known member
I recommend the Evolution Rage2 also. I’ve had mine for five years maybe more and can’t complain about.
The wife bought me a Milwaukee chop saw for Christmas something like 10 years ago and hasn't given me any problems. It'll probably last me another ten years or die one night when I'm trying to get a project finished.
I would say the ONLY Evo saw worth buying is the DRY CUT 15" EvoSaw380. It was a great dry cut saw and well worth the lower price.
If going abrasive, look at the Milwaukee, one of the few with a cast not stamped base and fence iirc.
If you want the best chop saw below a cold cut ie under $3k, it seems the MK Morse dry cut with blade stabilizers and all around quality construction is the best bet. And not much more then the Evo.
Edited: accidently ref the Rage2, the EvoSaw380 is the model that gets my vote. see post #15.
If going abrasive, look at the Milwaukee, one of the few with a cast not stamped base and fence iirc.
If you want the best chop saw below a cold cut ie under $3k, it seems the MK Morse dry cut with blade stabilizers and all around quality construction is the best bet. And not much more then the Evo.
Edited: accidently ref the Rage2, the EvoSaw380 is the model that gets my vote. see post #15.
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My mistake, there is some confusion with the Evolution line of dry cut saws.
There are two saws that fall in the dry cut 14"+ category.
Rage2 and the EvoSaw380
The EvoSaw380 is the better saw, and the only one worth considering imo.
Why? Simply the 380 offers much better construction, and the price reflects that.
Base- 380 has a heavy, cast aluminum base vs Rage2 stamped steel
Fence- 380 has a cast and machined fence vs Rage2 stamped steel
Vise- 380 features a quick release and again, cast machined aluminum vs stamped steel.
Handle- 380 has a more ergonomic horizontal handle vs Rage2 traditional D handle
The 380 also has better chip collection, but lets not fool ourselves, they go everywhere still.
Finally the 380 weighs in 55lbs vs 43lbs for the Rage 2.
These saws and the carbide tipped blades depend on a rigid, non flexing platform to give accurate cuts and reduce blade wear. You know what happens when your piece moves, even a little with a 15" carbide blade spinning at 1400+rpms... you loose teeth and accuracy.
With cutting tools, heavy = rigid = accuracy, stamped steel is a compromise.
Rage2
EvoSaw380
There are two saws that fall in the dry cut 14"+ category.
Rage2 and the EvoSaw380
The EvoSaw380 is the better saw, and the only one worth considering imo.
Why? Simply the 380 offers much better construction, and the price reflects that.
Base- 380 has a heavy, cast aluminum base vs Rage2 stamped steel
Fence- 380 has a cast and machined fence vs Rage2 stamped steel
Vise- 380 features a quick release and again, cast machined aluminum vs stamped steel.
Handle- 380 has a more ergonomic horizontal handle vs Rage2 traditional D handle
The 380 also has better chip collection, but lets not fool ourselves, they go everywhere still.
Finally the 380 weighs in 55lbs vs 43lbs for the Rage 2.
These saws and the carbide tipped blades depend on a rigid, non flexing platform to give accurate cuts and reduce blade wear. You know what happens when your piece moves, even a little with a 15" carbide blade spinning at 1400+rpms... you loose teeth and accuracy.
With cutting tools, heavy = rigid = accuracy, stamped steel is a compromise.
Rage2
EvoSaw380
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
Unless you're doing real heavy stock, I recommend the Klutch bandsaw.
I have a Steelmax 14" dry cut and never pull it out anymore.
I have a Steelmax 14" dry cut and never pull it out anymore.
Don't get the Rage2... It *****.. mine ***** big time... 2 blades chipped teeth, clamping system *****, and it doesn't cut true after about 20 or 30 cuts on an new blade.
Evo380 or Mk Morse would be my next one if I am looking for a dry cut saw...
When I was at the steel supplier they had a Dewalt with abrasive blade, that cuts really straight. Not sure which model... probably an industrial model.
Evo380 or Mk Morse would be my next one if I am looking for a dry cut saw...
When I was at the steel supplier they had a Dewalt with abrasive blade, that cuts really straight. Not sure which model... probably an industrial model.
this
evintho
Well-known member
How about a used Milwaukee?
https://amarillo.craigslist.org/tls/d/milwakee-chopsaw/6548212650.html
In 2010 I grabbed a beat up old Milwaukee off of CL for $20. Replaced the power cord, bought a new blade and cleaned it up. Been using it ever since!
https://amarillo.craigslist.org/tls/d/milwakee-chopsaw/6548212650.html
In 2010 I grabbed a beat up old Milwaukee off of CL for $20. Replaced the power cord, bought a new blade and cleaned it up. Been using it ever since!
tarbellb, I'd like to know if you're STILL happy with the evosaw380 - I was about to have Lowes order one (not in stock) - with my military discount it's about $20 cheaper than anywhere else.
Then I read one of the few reviews on their site; 2 "wows" and a "don't bother", that one claimed the motor bushings don't hold up. I'm just curious if that's a fluke or if others have had that problem. I know the REST of the saw seems real solid, I "kicked a tire" at the local tool place but they won't budge off the RETAIL price, I could get an extra blade for the difference...
Anyway, I'd love to hear your latest opinion now that you've had it a while - thanks... Steve
Then I read one of the few reviews on their site; 2 "wows" and a "don't bother", that one claimed the motor bushings don't hold up. I'm just curious if that's a fluke or if others have had that problem. I know the REST of the saw seems real solid, I "kicked a tire" at the local tool place but they won't budge off the RETAIL price, I could get an extra blade for the difference...
Anyway, I'd love to hear your latest opinion now that you've had it a while - thanks... Steve
Ha, im a sucker that always clicks the dry cut / cold saw / chop saw threads....
I had the Evo 380 for about 2-2.5yrs with heavy use. Sold it when I "upgraded" to the 14" Hitachi model, and thats after using most all the others out there.
Its still one of my more favorite 14 dry cut saws after all these years. I had zero mfg defect issues, only blade changes and fencing tuning. I went through maybe 12+ blades, about 300-600 (conservatively) cuts each.
So yeah, I still recommend it.
When I got mine I scribed true 90 and 45 into the painted top for the fence, its a great quick reference. But always grab your speed square to check if its critical.
enjoy
I had the Evo 380 for about 2-2.5yrs with heavy use. Sold it when I "upgraded" to the 14" Hitachi model, and thats after using most all the others out there.
Its still one of my more favorite 14 dry cut saws after all these years. I had zero mfg defect issues, only blade changes and fencing tuning. I went through maybe 12+ blades, about 300-600 (conservatively) cuts each.
So yeah, I still recommend it.
When I got mine I scribed true 90 and 45 into the painted top for the fence, its a great quick reference. But always grab your speed square to check if its critical.
enjoy
Thanks, I'm sure I WILL enjoy - been wanting to add to the "saw stable" for a few years, now my Jet 7x12 bandsaw's not cutting straight no matter WHAT I do, it's seriously looking like the bow itself is bent (too much tension, left that way for over a year) - a new bow is $375, but I can't take the time to completely strip the OLD one and get it dialed back in til things slow down a bit.
So for now, I'll do some with the old taiwanese HF 4x6 (still cuts straight after 35 years) and the rest with the dry cut, save the complete rebuild on the Jet for crappy weather INDOOR projects... Steve
So for now, I'll do some with the old taiwanese HF 4x6 (still cuts straight after 35 years) and the rest with the dry cut, save the complete rebuild on the Jet for crappy weather INDOOR projects... Steve
May Pop
Well-known member
My next one will be one of these
https://www.discountsteel.com/items/Rage3_Sliding_Mitre_Saw.cfm
I have had the Evolution for at lest 4 years and really like it.
https://www.discountsteel.com/items/Rage3_Sliding_Mitre_Saw.cfm
I have had the Evolution for at lest 4 years and really like it.
A "cold cut saw" is generally a super low rpm liquid cooled affair that machine shops use.
A " chop saw" generally refers to a wood butchers saw or an abrasive steel cutting saw used on construction sites for steel studs and rebar.
The dry cut saw is a mid rpm <2000 that is used by welders and fabricators of metals.The " cold saw" confusion stems from the fact that the dry saw generally leaves metal warm to cool to the touch after cutting....unless it's heavy or lots of repeat cuts are done on one piece....like cutting 1/4" wall tube in 3-4 inch long pieces rapidly....then some heat will accumulate.
Dry saws are a beautiful thing. Make sure it has a cast base and a good vise. Evolution has a stamped junker but also a good one. Not sure which is which but pay a little more for a Makita, Slugger or other high end rig for longer blade life due to less vibration and more stability.
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