Looking for a different glove recommendation - "waterproof" mechanic's gloves?

[JoshGuitar]

I've always hated using mechanic's gloves for things like oil changes, or other work where there's fluid coming out somewhere. Even though they can sometimes be cleaned, I still don't like drenching a $10-20 pair of gloves with transmission fluid; so I usually take those off and throw on some disposable nitrile gloves for the messy part. Plus even if I didn't care about keeping the gloves nice, my hands inside the gloves still end up covered in whatever fluid, which isn't ideal.

Recently this didn't end well; pulling the steering box from my truck, I changed into nitrile gloves to avoid PS fluid, then proceeded to somehow catch my thumb between the steering box and frame. Ended up with a pretty good cut across the "palm" side of the first knuckle on my thumb. At least the gloves kept my hands clean, except inside the cut, where they had to use up a whole bottle of saline to flush out grease/grime/rust. 5 stitches and I was on my way...end of story, right? Nope, 2 weeks later I lightly squeezed something and felt a pop. Turns out I had partially cut through the tendon and it was hanging on by a thread...and that light squeeze finished the job. Next up was surgery, followed by months of therapy that's still ongoing. I didn't want to ruin a pair of gloves, but the money I've spent on medical bills so far could have bought TONS of pairs. A pair of mechanic's gloves may not have completely prevented the cut, but it wouldn't have been as deep and the tendon would probably still be intact.

So, what I'm ideally looking for is a pair of mechanic's gloves that's basically waterproof, so they won't soak up oil or other fluids. That way I'll have some protection while still preserving dexterity, and I'll be able to just wipe off whatever I get all over them. Do they make something like that, or am I stuck slipping an oversized pair of nitrile gloves over my mechanic's gloves when I'm dealing with messy jobs?

 

[Firebrick43]

There is no such thing. There may be water resistant gloves but the stitching is going to let it get in and oil is hard to keep it out due to its tension and tendency to creep.

I would suggest getting some a large pack of dynema cut resistant gloves. They are fairly thin, good dexterity compared to any thing I have seen that are "mechanics" gloves. The palms are coated in rubber and its oil resistant as long as it doesn't run over the back of the palm/fingers where the rubber coating is not. They can be washed dozens of times before the rubber coating gets pin holes in it.

 

[PWC Repair]

I have some VERY thick nitrile gloves that are forearm length. They came from a janitorial supply. Might check those out.

 

[aggie113]

While they aren't liquid-proof, maybe something like these...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBFB5XB/?tag=atomicindus08-20

And if you're going to get all oiled up you can slip on some nitrile gloves underneath?

 

[dchawk81]

I've always hated using mechanic's gloves for things like oil changes, or other work where there's fluid coming out somewhere. Even though they can sometimes be cleaned, I still don't like drenching a $10-20 pair of gloves with transmission fluid; so I usually take those off and throw on some disposable nitrile gloves for the messy part. Plus even if I didn't care about keeping the gloves nice, my hands inside the gloves still end up covered in whatever fluid, which isn't ideal.

Recently this didn't end well; pulling the steering box from my truck, I changed into nitrile gloves to avoid PS fluid, then proceeded to somehow catch my thumb between the steering box and frame. Ended up with a pretty good cut across the "palm" side of the first knuckle on my thumb. At least the gloves kept my hands clean, except inside the cut, where they had to use up a whole bottle of saline to flush out grease/grime/rust. 5 stitches and I was on my way...end of story, right? Nope, 2 weeks later I lightly squeezed something and felt a pop. Turns out I had partially cut through the tendon and it was hanging on by a thread...and that light squeeze finished the job. Next up was surgery, followed by months of therapy that's still ongoing. I didn't want to ruin a pair of gloves, but the money I've spent on medical bills so far could have bought TONS of pairs. A pair of mechanic's gloves may not have completely prevented the cut, but it wouldn't have been as deep and the tendon would probably still be intact.

So, what I'm ideally looking for is a pair of mechanic's gloves that's basically waterproof, so they won't soak up oil or other fluids. That way I'll have some protection while still preserving dexterity, and I'll be able to just wipe off whatever I get all over them. Do they make something like that, or am I stuck slipping an oversized pair of nitrile gloves over my mechanic's gloves when I'm dealing with messy jobs?

I tore the **** out of myself and my gloves doing the steering box and shaft in my pickup as well.

I think it's what the shops call "Miscellaneous" on the invoice.

I didn't do as bad as you with the surgery, but the shower afterwards burned like hell.

A job that intensive and messy, I just consider the gloves and shirt and jeans disposable.

 

[PWC Repair]

I don't know if this is the same brand I have, but these bad boys are THICK.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019J9ZWU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[crewchief888]

i wear nitrile gloves with the cheapest fast fit type gloves over them mostly for winter use. currently using the 3 pack of gloves from HD.
i found any of the cut resistant or waterproof gloves get very slippery with coated with oil or snow. in the winter, i keep 2 or 3 pair warming/drying all the time in my service truck.

 

[Mike1903]

What about these?

https://www.costco.com/wells-lamont-men's-leather-work-gloves%2c-6-pair.product.100698771.html

 

[CraigStu]

My experience is that I think you just have to figure that some jobs will ruin your gloves. No way around that. I use nitrile maybe 90% of the time just to keep my hands clean. When you move into a job like your steering box I'd put on nitrile and something more protective over them. Mechanix Wear started the market w/ fairly dextrous gloves but it is all a trade off. Even the thinnest MW gloves aren't going to let you thread a 1/4 inch nut onto something unless the access is perfect. And it won't be much fun even picking that 1/4 inch nut up off the work bench. When I go to L or HD I usually walk past the glove display. Fairly often they have cheap MW knockoff gloves in a 2-3-4 pack at a good price so I grab them. Even the good quality old style gloves like Mike linked to are probably best for use w/ shovels, hammers, 2x4s. I have a couple pairs like those but they don't get used for anything mechanical other than maybe hooking up the utility trailer or the lawn vacuum.

 

[ycgoat]

I run the engine to heat up the oil, which leaves the exhaust hot which is very close to the oil filter, so I use leather driver or mechanics gloves and use them for dirty work. I will sometimes use nitrile gloves under them when not doing hot work. Regardless of which type of gloves I wash my hands after

 

[CJM8515]

put the nitrile gloves OVER your regular mechanics gloves. super easy solution to the problem

 

[LeeG]

I wear the Maxiflex gloves and pull on a pair of nitrile over top. Works a treat.

 

[gahrajmahal]

I’ve been doing some stone wall tuck pointing and repairing. For the longest while I was using the Harbor Freight 9mil nitrile gloves while working the concrete but I found I was going through several pairs a day. When Covid hit and nitrile gloves were hard to come by except the very cheapest I got the idea to slip on the nitrile gloves then put on a pair of dipped fabric gloves. The nitrile making them waterproof protecting my hands from the concrete and the dipped gloves taking all the abrasion. This has worked pretty good. I can get away with using up the several boxes of 3 mil and 5 mil gloves bought during lockdown. The sturdier fabric dipped gloves are the Milwaukee brand I have found.

sorry for your hand injury!

 

[Odd-job]

Good fitting ansell Hi-flexes work ok underneath nitriles. The good thing is they breath and can act as a liner under the nitriles. Some hand protection, but not as good as Mechanix.

 

[JoshGuitar]

Thanks for the suggestions. It looks like there's no perfect solution, at least not as a single glove. I'll check out some of these options, and probably end up just stretching nitrile over my regular gloves when necessary. At least until I scrape together the funds to start Josh's Rubber-Dipped Mechanic's Gloves Company.

 

[dchawk81]

Thanks for the suggestions. It looks like there's no perfect solution, at least not as a single glove. I'll check out some of these options, and probably end up just stretching nitrile over my regular gloves when necessary. At least until I scrape together the funds to start Josh's Rubber-Dipped Mechanic's Gloves Company.

I'll be your first investor and customer.


On this episode of Hawktank...

 

[Odd-job]

please put me for your angel round/kickstarter round as well!

 

[kwb]

I went down this path too many times trying to keep hands dry snowmobiling. Tried combinations of things, just about every known mx, snowmobile, mechanic, diving, etc. type gloves.

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A WATERPROOF GLOVE outside of a latex/nitrile type solution that has any dexterity.

For what you describe and most of what I do out in my shop. Nitrile glove first then something else depending on the job (welding, wrenching, greasy, grinding, etc) If high dexterity is needed for a bit of time, higher thickness nitrile work well, they also work well when dealing with solvents/resin for a bit of time.

 

[Mikeske]

My biggest issue with nitrile and rubberize gloves is the big buggabo of sweat on the hands and my arms. A few years I got some cheap cotton lined leather gloves at work. Man I loved the **** out of those they protected my hands but it is at a lose of being able to grab small items like nuts and washers. I still use the nitrile gloves when working around the various oils, greases, brake dust and chemicals on a vehicle. I still wear those old leather gloves from my former employer after even 5 years into my retirement as I still have a couple pair that still serviceable.