Looking for a good torque wrench

[SamHandyman]

I'm a home mechanic, I can do most mechanic work myself, recently taken out the ****** to replace clutch.. Still waiting for the parts to come before putting back together but the old cheap torque wrench we bought from Princess Auto(Harbor Freight US equivalent), I'm not so sure about its accuracy.

I've been reading a lot on this forum so it seems like preference is as follow:

1. Snap-On
2. Precision Instrusments
3. Kobalt/Husky and other brands that are reasonable priced and reasonably ok.

Snap-On TechAngle seems like the best but it's way out of u budget now, I'm thinking about getting a PI split beam style.

Most of my cars have torque to yield bolts in certain places which require certain angle after the correct torque. The way I've been doing it now is to just use a breaker bar and estimate the angle by looking at the angle. It looks like the TehAngle wrench would be perfect but still to expensive.

My plan is to get a PI and then use the same method for torque to yield or attach one of those angle gauge to it.

Any other recommendations for wrenches that do angle?

 

[Wamsutta]

That TechAngle would be very convenient, but like you said, they don't give them away.

 

[Olafur]

Mechanical angle gauges, dial types, supposed to be attached between socket and drive tool are IMHO pain to use. Yes if you have good access, plenty of time and some beer to sip you can use them. If not - just pain to use.

I have seen members here recommend this one, but I have never tried it: http://www.brownlinemetalworks.com/

Personally I use "digital torque adapters" a lot as torque wrenches and I like them. They have very good range, are accurate, convert between units, no need to dial them down and they take up very little space in the drawer. My 1/2 drive AC-delco unit has already seen thousands of bolts in the past 4 years and is still kicking -replaced batteries last week though.

Whatever you buy pay close attention to scale. It would be a bummer to buy PI wrench with 20-100lb/ft range only to discover you cant use it on the very common 8mm bolts that require around 20-25Nm.

 

[maxpower_hd]

We use CDI torque wrenches at work and they seem to work just fine. Industrial grade, able to be re-calibrated, owned by Snap On. Ours say made in USA. Not sure if all of them are. But all in all a good wrench at a smaller price than SO.

 

[Tonyuk]

The way i started years ago was to buy a full circle protractor and mark the bolt on the 12 o'clock position with a paint marker, then mark whatever it was mounting too and the correct number of degrees, then just turn until the marks lined up.

Crude but it worked before i started in the trade and could afford a proper angle gauge.

 

[txvwnut]

I vote precision instruments. Quality built and affordable.

 

[uncwstudent]

I've got a Blackhawk 1/2" Torque Wrench (20-150ibs) and I love it:

http://www.protoindustrial.com/en/i...Drive-Micrometer-Torque-Wrench-20-150-ft-lbs/

 

[Rarified27]

I've had a Proto 6066A since 2011 and it's outstanding. 3/8 drive with a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter. 15" long, so plenty of leverage. Ratcheting head. A nice tough plastic case too.

Looking on Proto's site, it may have been updated as the 6066C, since they don't show the A anywhere. Regardless, it's well under $200 and I wouldn't want any other kind. The click from this one is clear too- no guessing.

Head's up- wear gloves. The knurling is way more aggressive than SK and actually has a "bite" to bare hands.

 

[dnschmidt]

I believe in the two tool solution. Use a torque wrench for the pre-torque (PI are fine) and the Brown Line Digital Angle Gauge for the additional angle. Smaller, lighter, shorter and just easier than the torque plus angle wrench.

 

[Yarpo]

We use Snap on at work, but the price tag attached scares me away from getting them as my home torque wrenches.

Id recommend precision instruments as well for the price, I also recently picked up a Tekton click style wrench on Amazon Prime day or whatever and the wrench has worked great. Just did my head bolts with the tekton and then checked them with the PI wrench and it was pretty much spot on. The wrench was packaged well and looks to be well put together. Just another option if you wanna go for a budget wrench like those Husky or Kobalt ones.

 

[rlitman]

We use Snap on at work, but the price tag attached scares me away from getting them as my home torque wrenches.

Id recommend precision instruments as well for the price, I also recently picked up a Tekton click style wrench on Amazon Prime day or whatever and the wrench has worked great. Just did my head bolts with the tekton and then checked them with the PI wrench and it was pretty much spot on. The wrench was packaged well and looks to be well put together. Just another option if you wanna go for a budget wrench like those Husky or Kobalt ones.

If the Snap On prices scare you, don't look at the Stahlwille Manoskop. I've got three of those now at home, and they make my PI made Snap On look like a knockoff.

 

[ducksface]

This comes up often.
Except For the digital being new, torque wrench design is ancient and simple.
I'm going to venture that a torque measuring device was invented the same day the fulcrum was...before the wheel, and that a beam type torque wrench is the basically the same today as it was that very day.
For what you do get an hf or just any wrench you feel the need for.
What is causing you to question the accuracy of the wrench you own?

As stated in every thread ever about torque wrenches:
Unless it's the space shuttle or other giant, running at 110percent pressure vessel, you'll do Fine with a known weight in bricks and a known length of stick.

If this is a want and not a need thing, I have nothing to help you with.

It took years to break the multimeter stigma and untruths, how long for torque stuff?

 

[JimRB]

I am doing my once every 3 years or 100,000 mile timing belt this weekend. Plenty of torque to X plus add 1/4 turn bolts. I use my Sharpie and mark all the bolts at the same time. Make the next quarter turn. Easy with 1/4 turn fasteners.

I have 1/4" and 3/8" PI torque wrenches bought off Ebay used that work fine. I have 3/8" torque wrench I think I got from HF years ago that actually had a calibration certificate on it. That one does not have good break or click anymore so I got the PI. It probably could be serviced and find the lost big click. I have a 1/2" Craftsman and some other brand of torque wrench. The Craftsman handle got loose and I have not recalibrated it. The other nice but unbranded wrench seems accurate.

 

[a52-830]

apparently coming in from another country, i have found the tekton click type easy to set, easy to use (the click is loud enough), and comes with a plastic case to keep it all safe and snug.

they are 40$ or 50$, depending on what size you want. they work fine on the cars, trucks, and motorcycles i have.

 

[D-Vice]

I use a PI split beam, mostly because I know someone who works for PI, he sold me on them when talking about the reliability of the wrenches. I will admit, it feels a bit wonky in the hand, but it works well.

 

[jessesandy]

Just test the torque wrench you have. Secure the square drive part in a vice and have the handle parallel to the ground (exact as possible). Measure one foot from the center of the square drive (exact as possible) and hang a known weight on the handle.
For example, 20 lbs, a foot away from the center is a twist/torque of 20 ft/lbs.
Accurate enough to give you peace of mind.

 

[FSrepair&fabrication]

The way i started years ago was to buy a full circle protractor and mark the bolt on the 12 o'clock position with a paint marker, then mark whatever it was mounting too and the correct number of degrees, then just turn until the marks lined up.

Crude but it worked before i started in the trade and could afford a proper angle gauge.

This is how I have seen many guys torque the main bolts on caterpillar engines in class 8 trucks, must be close enough lol as many of them are still on the road today.

Ill second the vote for the tekton clicker style. just bought the 3/8 last week on amazon for only $30 i couldnt help myself. i tried it out on a few bolts that i tightened down with my snap on 1/2 and was impressed with the accuracy - totally dead on for a cheap offshore tool. for most automotive work requiring a torque wrench id say its good enough

 

[Wamsutta]

I vote precision instruments. Quality built and affordable.

Do they have one that measures angles for torque-to-yield bolts?

 

[gibsonhtp]

Carlyle tools has a full line of quality torque wrenches and digital as well. Check them out.

 

[SHAZZAM]

We use CDI torque wrenches at work and they seem to work just fine. Industrial grade, able to be re-calibrated, owned by Snap On. Ours say made in USA. Not sure if all of them are. But all in all a good wrench at a smaller price than SO.

I use cdi at home, body/torque side is same as snap on, ratheting head is not snap on. That was what I was told. They have been good and held calibration for 4+ years for me. I've had then checked by a 3rd party few times to verify this.

Keep I mind with click torque wrenched the accuracy is only ok. Bottom 20% of the range Is considered ok, not great. Plus the click mechanism is inherently inaccurate by desugn.

All that being said. I used cdi click wrenched for everything at home from car lugs to motorcycle race engines and have been very happy. It is not common for regular people to be a to calibrate torque wrenched so get something you trust.

 

[oldtools]

Another option is Utica

 

[Olafur]

Perhaps not important for most of you guys, but I have considered the Snap On tech angle wrenches. Then I realized the they wouldn't do much for me in the "angle" department since the most of the stuff I work on requires much more torque than can be expected from 1/2" drive wrench.

For example 18mm head bolts, first you torque them to 250-300 Nm and then you have to add 90° - 3 times. To do this you require north of 600Nm

BTW - and this is relevant.
A ratchet has built in angle gauge. I use coarse tooth ratchets for angle torque. Quick and easy once you honed your method.

 

[Wamsutta]

BTW - and this is relevant.
A ratchet has built in angle gauge. I use coarse tooth ratchets for angle torque. Quick and easy once you honed your method.

Please explain that. Thank you.

 

[ducksface]

60 tooth ratchet is 6 degrees per click.
Other math is available for other tooth counts.
tooth count divided into 360....

This is a line in the sand.

 

[Wamsutta]

60 tooth ratchet is 6 degrees per click.
Other math is available for other tooth counts.
tooth count divided into 360....

This is a line in the sand.

What if two ratchets have the same tooth count but one is 3/8" drive and the other is 1/2" drive?

 

[ducksface]

What if two ratchets have the same tooth count but one is 3/8" drive and the other is 1/2" drive?

Maybe someone else will answer.

 

[Olafur]

Please explain that. Thank you.

You want to torque something 90° - thats 1/4 of a full circle. Full circle on 32 teeth ratchet is well.. 32 teeth. Divide by 4 = 8 teeth.

So with 32 tooth ratchet you have to torque 8 teeth to get 90°.

FIRST:
You figure out the end of your swing and you pull tight on the bolt head without moving it - and you notice where the end of the handle is pointing. Take not of that.

SECOND:
Back the ratchet and count the teeth "clicks". In this example count 8 clicks on the ratchet and by then you are 90° off your "END" position.

THIRD:
Bring ratchet from SECOND position to the "FIRST" so the handle is in the same position under force. Now you have tightened the fastener 8 teeth or 90°.

Needless to say this method is hopeless with fine tooth ratchets. But works fine with 24-36 tooth.

Sorry, difficult for me to explain since English is not my first language.

 

[Force_Measurement]

Hi hope you are doing well. If you're still looking for a torque wrench, this US manufacturer has a pretty good reviewed one. There is a spec sheet for the wrench as well.

 

[Joelk]

I have Digital Torque Adapters that seem very accurate and easy to use, if access to view is good.

DTA also let you verify the reading of your "regular torque wrench/s" so you can use them where access is an issue, and precision is not super important. If the DTA says that your regular Torque Wrench reads 60 FP at 50 FPs, just set it at 60 FP if 50 FPs is the torque value that you need.

 

[Ralf11]

maybe find out who makes the TechAngle for Snappy

Let's talk types:

1. beam - keeps its calibration but cannot be used unless you can watch the pointer
2. click type - have to return to zero to keep the spring from getting effed up; can use as long as you can hear or feel it click
3. Digital - should be more accurate than the above; keeps its calibration;and is easy to store and use in poor access situations

So, I might look for a digital that you can test on a bolt clamped in a vise and then return if out of spec.

AFAIK, they all use load cells; could be there are some cheapo ones that have figured to a way to make them crummy...