I recently purchased a motorcycle and need to do some electrical work on it. Can someone recommend a good quality pair of wire crimpers. I'm thinking I want a ratcheting crimper that can accommodate multiple gauge insulated wire connectors. I'm also looking for a good pair of wire strippers. I've heard alot of times the reason crimped connections sometimes fail, is that poor quality connectors were used. What brand of connector is considered good quality? I can get the no name connectors from Auto Zone, but I want something that won"t fail. I really appreciate any advice you can give me.
Looking for a good wire crimper and connections
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
http://gokimco.com/paladin-pa1306-1...2-10awg.html?gclid=CK6Gv4m2ibgCFQSCQgodZi8AOA
These look like the crimpers I bought at West Marine who also sell high grade terminals by Amp.
These look like the crimpers I bought at West Marine who also sell high grade terminals by Amp.
joe_padavano
Well-known member
Are you looking for a crimping tool for generic crimp-on terminals or factory-specific ones? For example, the Packard 56, Weatherpack, and Metripack connectors used by GM (and many others) require specific crimping tools (and a different one for each family).
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
There are more expensive strippers out there but I like the Ideal T6 strippers.
I also have a pair of their T5 strippers for heavier wire.
For crimpers, I just use an Ideal Multi-Crimp Tool (don't use the wire strippers on this tool ; they stink)
Ratchet crimpers are overkill for automotive wiring. What is important is that the crimper has an anvil for insulated and non insulated connectors.
I do not like insulated connectors. I think they do a poor job of insulating. Non-insulated connectors with heat shrink tube give you more protection from shorts and IMHO looks better. The best non-insulated connectors I have used are Tyco Electric (formerly Amp) Solistrand. They come in ring, hook, spade and **** splices. You won't find them at HD or Lowes or an auto parts store, but any electronic warehouse (DigiKey, Mouser, Allide, Newark) will have them.
Finally, especially if it is for a motorcycle, get marine heat shrink. It has a soft inner lining that melts into the connection to make it pretty much water waterproof. You will only need about 3 sizes, so spend a few extra bucks. You can find it on eBay or, again, electronic supply houses.
I will also go out on a limb and say, if you are using marine heat shrink tube, skip the **** splices and soldering. For 14 - 20 gauge wire, strip about 1" from each end and twist the bare copper together, at least 2 full turns, and cover with marine heat shrink. If you want "insurance", use 2 layers of heat shrink, the second one at least 1" longer on each side.
I also have a pair of their T5 strippers for heavier wire.
For crimpers, I just use an Ideal Multi-Crimp Tool (don't use the wire strippers on this tool ; they stink)
Ratchet crimpers are overkill for automotive wiring. What is important is that the crimper has an anvil for insulated and non insulated connectors.
I do not like insulated connectors. I think they do a poor job of insulating. Non-insulated connectors with heat shrink tube give you more protection from shorts and IMHO looks better. The best non-insulated connectors I have used are Tyco Electric (formerly Amp) Solistrand. They come in ring, hook, spade and **** splices. You won't find them at HD or Lowes or an auto parts store, but any electronic warehouse (DigiKey, Mouser, Allide, Newark) will have them.
Finally, especially if it is for a motorcycle, get marine heat shrink. It has a soft inner lining that melts into the connection to make it pretty much water waterproof. You will only need about 3 sizes, so spend a few extra bucks. You can find it on eBay or, again, electronic supply houses.
I will also go out on a limb and say, if you are using marine heat shrink tube, skip the **** splices and soldering. For 14 - 20 gauge wire, strip about 1" from each end and twist the bare copper together, at least 2 full turns, and cover with marine heat shrink. If you want "insurance", use 2 layers of heat shrink, the second one at least 1" longer on each side.
Last edited:
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
firebox40dash5
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2012
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This, except for skipping **** splices. I pretty much always use uninsulated splices, you can find them online, or Napa carries them. I'm sure you could successfully just twist the wire and use dual-wall heatshrink, but I prefer the extra insurance of a solid connection under the heatshrink. Any connectors exposed to the weather get the crappy plastic "insulation" removed and more dual-wall tube.
Also, vampire taps are the work of satan himself. Especially on something with tight spaces and unavailable replacement harnesses.
There are more expensive strippers out there but I like the Ideal T6 strippers.
I also have a pair of their T5 strippers for heavier wire.
For crimpers, I just use an Ideal Multi-Crimp Tool (don't use the wire strippers on this tool ; they stink)
Ratchet crimpers are overkill for automotive wiring. What is important is that the crimper has an anvil for insulated and non insulated connectors.
I do not like insulated connectors. I think they do a poor job of insulating. Non-insulated connectors with heat shrink tube give you more protection from shorts and IMHO looks better. The best non-insulated connectors I have used are Tyco Electric (formerly Amp) Solistrand. They come in ring, hook, spade and **** splices. You won't find them at HD or Lowes or an auto parts store, but any electronic warehouse (DigiKey, Mouser, Allide, Newark) will have them.
Finally, especially if it is for a motorcycle, get marine heat shrink. It has a soft inner lining that melts into the connection to make it pretty much water waterproof. You will only need about 3 sizes, so spend a few extra bucks. You can find it on eBay or, again, electronic supply houses.
I will also go out on a limb and say, if you are using marine heat shrink tube, skip the **** splices and soldering. For 14 - 20 gauge wire, strip about 1" from each end and twist the bare copper together, at least 2 full turns, and cover with marine heat shrink. If you want "insurance", use 2 layers of heat shrink, the second one at least 1" longer on each side.
Thank you, I was actually thinking about using the uninsulated connectors covered with the marine grade heat srink instead of the insulated connectors. The only reason I was going to use insulated connectors was because they're easier to find ( in the auto stores anyway) I have a pair Klein crimpers that does both, just doesn't crimp the smaller 18-22G insulated connectors as securely as I'd like. I may have to change my strategy.
Brownsfan
Well-known member
I use this style crimpers with zero failures. But it really depends on the connecters you will be using. These have never failed me. http://products.kleintools.com/Stri... Tools/Crimping_slash_Cutting Tools/1005.html
I like the crimper design on my new Knipex linesman pliers and the Klien/cman/hf style strippers is the kind I like most.
Granted, I haven't owned those Knipex long but I've used several different kinds in the past crimping and those work best for me.
Granted, I haven't owned those Knipex long but I've used several different kinds in the past crimping and those work best for me.
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
I love my Ideal ratcheting crimpers for modular plugs and coax. Never used the insulated terminal dies but I am sure they are good. I use Klein 1005 and Channellock 909 typically.
My favorite crimpers are the Ideal 30-429. I like the shape of the non-insulated dies better than the Klein's. The Klein's are too pointed.
http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=30-429&div=3&l1=crimp_tools&l2=multi-crimp_tool
http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=30-429&div=3&l1=crimp_tools&l2=multi-crimp_tool
Vinyl insulated terminals aren't the ones to be using for automotive/motorcycle use. Use the uninsulated types for general repairs such as **** splices (areas that don't take very specific connectors such as those already listed), along with adhesive lined heatshrink tubing (seals out water, and acts as a strain relief).
The die profile for these are quite common, so the right crimp tool won't be hard to find (many brands from the cheapest Chinese to the most expensive European made models will offer this profile; YMMV regarding quality).
As per terminal brands, stick with something like Panduit, 3M, Thomas&Betts, or Molex. You won't find these in an auto parts store, so you'll likely have to order them online (if you have a Grainger or McMaster Carr local to you, they could be an alternative to online sources, assuming they actually have stock of what you need).
The die profile for these are quite common, so the right crimp tool won't be hard to find (many brands from the cheapest Chinese to the most expensive European made models will offer this profile; YMMV regarding quality).
As per terminal brands, stick with something like Panduit, 3M, Thomas&Betts, or Molex. You won't find these in an auto parts store, so you'll likely have to order them online (if you have a Grainger or McMaster Carr local to you, they could be an alternative to online sources, assuming they actually have stock of what you need).
MFolks
Well-known member
The good, bad, and ugly of electrical wire crimpers:
http://www.pbase.com/image/93309736
http://www.pbase.com/image/93309736
Jeeper
Well-known member
I like the channellock 909s for a good crimper. Haven't used ratcheting ones yet. I bought some uninsulated **** joints and adhesive lined heat shrink and it does a great job. I did experiment with some "weather proof" **** joints by 3m from Wally World. They look to produce a good solid connection and they too are adhesive lined. For the availability, price and speed they seem hard to beat. Pretty sure that some of the car manufactures call for those style joints for repairs.
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WhoWhatNow
Well-known member
I just picked up a pair of the 909s this morning for $15 from Lowe's. Used them to wire up my compressor and I am impressed.
SpiderGearsMan
Banned
called SOLDER
I only use marine grade connectors any more. I really like the connectors with installed heat shrink. They are a little expensive up front, but buy the time you factor in buying a connector, quality heat shrink, angled the time to install said heat shrink it tens to work out about even.
I but all my electrical supplies from genuinedealz.com. West Marine carries really good electrical part, but they are ungodly expensive.
I but all my electrical supplies from genuinedealz.com. West Marine carries really good electrical part, but they are ungodly expensive.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
I won't vouch for those Ideal crimpers on 18-22 gauge connectors !
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
They are on eBay also. Good supplier.
Here is another tip for anyone doing wiring on a car. motorcycle or trailer, especially if it is exposed to the weather. Buy marine or pre-tinned wire. It costs more, but it will never corrode.
jal395
Well-known member
I have the same kleins mentioned in the link. We always refered to them as "staycon" pliers. I would not use anything else.
I have tried quite a few different crimpers and the best I have found are the snap on crimpers.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=742281&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=742281&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
The actual name would be Sta-Kon which is Thomas and Betts trade name for their insulated connectors. I've got a pair of their crimpers too, orange and black handles.
jethro29
Well-known member
i agree with that,they are freaking awesome
Brownsfan
Well-known member
I prefer the Kleins for crimping. But an all around the snap ons are hard to beat. They have the best cutter on a crimp tool ever. I own both pair and do reach for the snap ons more because of the cutter and the grips.
jal395
Well-known member
Sta-Kon - That was one of those things that I heard my whole life but never wrote it out until today.
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
glad to help lolmrtoolfool
Well-known member
Agreed 110% Wouldn't use anything else.
mark40sw
Well-known member
http://www.waytekwire.com
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/560/CRIMP-TOOL-W-INTERCHANGEABLE/
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog226/#/52/OnePage
same dies but more options, expensive compared to waytek
http://www.kctoolco.com/PortaCrimp-Crimper-and-Dies-s/2068.htm
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/560/CRIMP-TOOL-W-INTERCHANGEABLE/
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog226/#/52/OnePage
same dies but more options, expensive compared to waytek
http://www.kctoolco.com/PortaCrimp-Crimper-and-Dies-s/2068.htm
+1
(I have the same crimper).FWIW, the crimper is made in Sweden by Pressmaster, who is the ODM for quite a few of the tools sold by others, including terminal manufacturers, such as the Sta-Kon models for Thomas&Betts.
1950mercury
Well-known member
I use them daily at work.....thomas &betts. I think they make snap ons
bsdam
Member
I've got the same crimpers, well made tools. Also have the Klein's as well but I'm partial to the T&B's (been using them for years).