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Looking for a one person brake bleeder setup!

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Madjik Man

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Joined
Dec 3, 2015
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1,521
I had a motive pump and a mityvac and I just gravity bleed. Really nice to lift the car and use a few feet of clear hose.
I'm not sure if Motive fixed this or not, but after a few years, all the hoses crumbled from being exposed to brake fluid. Luckily I didn't find out by spraying the car with brake fluid.

I assume you fill the Motive reservoir with brake fluid to push through the system?

Every YouTube video I saw, the guys leave it empty and (assuming) keep filling the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid as they go.

Which defeats some of the purpose of using the Motive, no?

I also saw that Motive’s instructions say to use denatured alcohol to clean the lines, pump, etc after use.
 

dnschmidt

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Oct 3, 2014
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7,272
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I also saw that Motive’s instructions say to use denatured alcohol to clean the lines, pump, etc after use.
Correct. Brake fluid is actually pretty nasty stuff. If it can remove paint, and it does, Tygon tubing isn't going to have much of a chance long term so that's a very good suggestion.
 

zmotorsports

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Joined
Oct 20, 2009
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21,381
Location
Northern Utah
Motive and Mityvac seem to be quite popular on here but I've been using a Blue Point vacuum bleeder for probably 25+ years now and is my go-to for anything brake or hydraulic clutch related.
bleeder.jpg
 

Madjik Man

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Dec 3, 2015
Messages
1,521
Correct. Brake fluid is actually pretty nasty stuff. If it can remove paint, and it does, Tygon tubing isn't going to have much of a chance long term so that's a very good suggestion.

Yeah brake fluid is nasty stuff.

I’d be more inclined to ensure the pump is cleaned thoroughly with denatured alcohol and just replace the silicone tubing.
 

DGersic

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Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,304
Location
DeKalb, IL
Part one of my brake bleeding setup is a bottle, tubing, and check valve. Standard “one man” bleeding kit I’ve had for decades. Was always frustrating to use, because if I’m in the car pumping the pedal, I can’t see what’s going on at the wheel.

Part two solved this. I took a discarded microphone stand, and mounted a phone holder to it. This allows me to stick my phone in the wheelwell with the camera pointed at the bleeder. Then I FaceTime my iPad and put it in the car where I can see it. Perfect remote view of what’s going on at the wheel while my foot is pumping the pedal.

This setup turns out to be remarkably useful for other places, like wanting to see the spark tester under hood while in the driver seat turning the key to crank the engine.
 

pbon

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May 14, 2017
Messages
3,498
I'm not sure if Motive fixed this or not, but after a few years, all the hoses crumbled from being exposed to brake fluid. Luckily I didn't find out by spraying the car with brake fluid.
I have a motive and the hose blew a small leak a few years ago and made a big mess. It was probably close to 10 years old.
 

Old Man Roger

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Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,523
Location
Palm Coast Florida
Part one of my brake bleeding setup is a bottle, tubing, and check valve. Standard “one man” bleeding kit I’ve had for decades. Was always frustrating to use, because if I’m in the car pumping the pedal, I can’t see what’s going on at the wheel.

Part two solved this. I took a discarded microphone stand, and mounted a phone holder to it. This allows me to stick my phone in the wheelwell with the camera pointed at the bleeder. Then I FaceTime my iPad and put it in the car where I can see it. Perfect remote view of what’s going on at the wheel while my foot is pumping the pedal.

This setup turns out to be remarkably useful for other places, like wanting to see the spark tester under hood while in the driver seat turning the key to crank the engine.
I like the remote viewing idea, but with the long clear hose looped over a ladder you wouldn’t need a camera or a check valve for bleeding the brakes.

You can see the air bubbles through the clear hose, and gravity will keep air from getting in the bleeder.

I always rinse the hose out with water when I’m done, must be a good 15 years old by now.
 

dnschmidt

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Oct 3, 2014
Messages
7,272
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I was going to supplement the system with the Power Probe BA10 cap for Toyotas.
Why waste $50 plus shipping for the Power Probe cap (which I don't think they make at the present time) when you can buy the one I suggested and it comes with the metal cap ready to roll?
 

WWheeler

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Jun 23, 2015
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Middleofnowhere USA
Last edited:

Wiz02

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Jul 13, 2007
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2,399
Location
Southeastern PA
To all the vacuum bleeding method guys,I don't know if it's just CYA lawyer speak or if there is any validity to the claims that applying a vacuum to the brake bleeder can damage one way hydraulic system seals, so I stick with power bleeding, gave up on the 2 person pedal pump process to preserve my marriage.

I would have to dig up the reference but I know that it's in at least one of my GM shop manuals.
 

sweet victory

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Jun 9, 2016
Messages
1,263
Location
USA
I use the motive brake bleeder using the dry method. I absolutely love this method for at home vehicle maintenance. I wouldn't recommend this method in a production environment. For adapters, I don't think you can beat Assenmacher Specialty Tools (AST). I have several and they are great quality, made in the USA.

The difference between the conventional motive process and what's been dubbed the "dry method" is you don't fill the motive brake bleeder with fluid, you just use it to build pressure. The process is as follows:
  • Use a syringe to empty 95% of the brake fluid reservoir
  • Fill with new fluid
  • Install your adapter and build 12-15PSI of pressure with the bleeder
  • Start bleeding at wheel furthest away
  • Before fluid is completely drained from reservoir, remove your adapter and refill the brake fluid reservoir.
  • Rinse and repeat until completed
For a sedan, you'll probably need to top off the reservoir about 3 times. Between my motive bleeder and brake reservoir adapter, I changed the hose to my own longer hose and quick disconnect fittings. This allows me to keep the bleeder comfortably on the floor, with the vehicle raised a couple of feet off the ground. I put the female quick disconnect fitting on the motive brake bleeder end of the hose, that way when I disconnect it to top off fluid, it keeps its pressure. This keeps the process pretty quick and efficient.

You'll want to keep an eye on the motive bleeder pressure, and that you don't let the brake fluid reservoir on the vehicle run dry.
For good measure, I use a magnetic brake fluid bottle with a built in check valve. I always keep 10+ psi in the motive bleeder so it's always pushing fluid out, but the check valve in the catch bottle is a good safety measure.

At the end of this, there is no brake bleeder tool to clean up or worry about. Just wrap up the hose and put it away.
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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Joined
Mar 12, 2009
Messages
10,678
Location
AZ
These guys in Canada make the best DIY brake bleeder. Much superior to the Motive due to the superior master cylinder caps. Especially for Toyota which is a problem child for the Motive. https://www.speedibleed.com/about_us.html

I'm going to get one and see how it does. I was thinking Motive, but kinda like this better. Also, right now they're having a 40% off sale, so the price differential isn't much. 2 adapters will do all 3 of my trucks, so that's convenient.
 

jeepnatv4life

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Joined
Nov 26, 2013
Messages
196
Location
Harrisonburg Area VA
Been using the submerged clear hose bleeder method for 4+ years on side work..... Pumpin until the hose has minimal bubbles

just like wwheeler's post


Why spend more money than you need to??!!
 

signcrafter

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Joined
May 9, 2012
Messages
12,359
To all the vacuum bleeding method guys,I don't know if it's just CYA lawyer speak or if there is any validity to the claims that applying a vacuum to the brake bleeder can damage one way hydraulic system seals, so I stick with power bleeding, gave up on the 2 person pedal pump process to preserve my marriage.

I would have to dig up the reference but I know that it's in at least one of my GM shop manuals.
Would love to see that. How can you damage a one way valve when you are sucking fluid the same direction a pressure bleeder or for that matter a normal system pushes fluid? They both push/pull fluid from master cylinder to caliper in the same direction. And what one way valve are you referring to that vacuuming fluid damages?
 
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Wiz02

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Jul 13, 2007
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2,399
Location
Southeastern PA
Would love to see that. How can you damage a one way valve when you are sucking fluid the same direction a pressure bleeder or for that matter a normal system pushes fluid? They both push/pull fluid from master cylinder to caliper in the same direction. And what one way valve are you referring to that vacuuming fluid damages?
You are correct, I think that l was thinking of the Phoenix brake bleeder that injects fluid via the bleeders and it's potential to damage ABS solenoids. I am going to blame this brain fart on getting old.
 

lbhsbz

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Joined
Jan 13, 2010
Messages
1,174
Location
Long Beach CA
Depending on the age of the "Fleet", if it is newer, I would strongly suggest reading through proper service information for the recommended bleeding procedures...most modern vehicles cannot be bled properly by what we used to consider "normal" methods anymore.
 

toddmorr

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Joined
May 4, 2017
Messages
649
Location
Potomac, Maryland
anybody have actual experience with the Toyota adapter in the SpeediBleed kit mentioned earlier?

 

dnschmidt

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Oct 3, 2014
Messages
7,272
Location
Phoenix, AZ
^^^^ Yes, it works. I modified mine to use a normal and not miniature air ****** it comes supplied with. I bought this 1/8" NPT to normal True-Flate ****** from McMaster-Care as I have my Motive set up with quick disconnects identical to the Power Probe idea.
 

VolvoRyan

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Joined
Dec 29, 2019
Messages
1,339
Location
Kentuckiana, USA
Brake bleeders and "what oil you use" is like talking religion and politics. ;)

Another Motive guy here. And yes, I fill it up. I store it upside down in a baking tray with some shop rags under it. Never store it with brake fluid in it.

When replacing a master cylinder (or if the existing one goes dry), I often have to pump the pedal a few times to help purge the air. From there, your favorite bleeding method works fine.

-Ryan
 

yhprum

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Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Messages
1,390
Location
Brisbane Australia
I made one from a glass pickle jar and lid. JB weld two barbed hose fittings on the lid. One connects to a hand held vacuum pumper. The other goes to the bleeder. Bonus was the lid pops when there is adequate vacuum in the jar, so you can hear when you need to pump it up again when it pops as the vacuum drops. The first time I used it, I sucked the master cylinder dry before I knew it. Grrr.
Would pull and brake air down the lines on my motorcycle front lines like magic, and total cost was next to nothing.
 

ricleh

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Joined
Nov 2, 2007
Messages
1,447
Location
Sacramento, CA
I have had good results on my Toyota vehicles with the KTC ABX70 brake bleeder.
 

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hailwood1965

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Nov 28, 2014
Messages
162
Fleet is Ford, GM and Toyota.
My last kid is still at home. He has been helping me to bleed brakes since he was like 5-6. I guess when he is out of the nest I'll teach my wife. Ha, who are we kidding? I will ask a friend to stop by.
 

engineer2

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Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
11,798
Location
Chicago burbs
I used my Vacula for years and it works OK. I find that with the new electronic parking brakes, it helps to push brake fluid though at a higher rate. I built my own out of a weed sprayer, propane regulator, a MityVac gauge, and a quality metal cap. I still use the Vacula to catch the fluid. This setup guarantees a good pedal.
 

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brownbagg

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Joined
Mar 20, 2006
Messages
5,208
alway use the coke bottle and vaccum holes when i was young, know i just drip dry method
 

bctexas

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Sep 6, 2015
Messages
670
Location
Aubrey, TX
Professional power bleeders use a diaphragm between the compressed air and the brake fluid. Home units do not. I have always been concerned that the home power bleeder is pumping damp compressed air directly over the new brake fluid - does that lead to contamination of the fluid with the very substance we are trying to get rid of? I dunno. But I do know that when you get done with your power bleeder you have a pretty good size mess to clean up - and you best be meticulous about it or you are going to contaminate the next batch of new fluid you pour in the thing.

I have speed bleeders on all my cars. These gizmos replace the standard bleeder fittings. They have sealant on the threads to stop air from getting past, and a one way valve. After using a hand vacuum tool to **** out the old fluid and refill, you hang a jar from the bleeder fitting with clear hose, open the fitting and pump the brake pedal. I do a front and a rear at the same time - I suppose you could do all four at once but I only have 2 jars. If there are bubbles you can see them in the clear hose - it stays full because of the one-way valve and sealant. A one person operation, quick, easy, effective and nothing to clean. I just keep the jars in a tupperware container with a lid on it.

 

engineer2

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Dec 13, 2009
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11,798
Location
Chicago burbs
I have always been concerned that the home power bleeder is pumping damp compressed air directly over the new brake fluid
The shops that had the ball bleeders never cleaned them. If your bleeder has no diaphragm, no issues if you have an air dryer.
 
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