Looking for a recommendation for floor coating

[CS223]

I've got a a new 2000 sq/ft shop/barn that I'm setting up one half as a machine shop. I've looked at all the beautiful jobs posted in the various threads, most of which are out of my budget and excess to my needs. At the moment I have just a finished troweled floor with tire tracks from the construction.

My primary interest is in sealing the floor against petroleum & solvents. Something most sealers don't seem to be capable of. Secondly, I've considered applying a sodium silicate product to harden the surface & reduce chipping issues prior to sealing it.

I'd like to either clean the tire tracks from the concrete which apparently isn't easy to do or use an opaque product to hide them.
I'm in FL so no issues with freezing.

What I'm looking for is the best product compromise that is:

Economical
Easy to prep for & apply
Resists petroleum & related solvents.
Relatively durable in the presence of heavy machinery. Takes some abuse from things like benches dragging and wheeled tool carts.
Light in color like a gray.

I've got to DIY to save costs where I can. I appreciate all hints, tips etc.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I've got a a new 2000 sq/ft shop/barn that I'm setting up one half as a machine shop. I've looked at all the beautiful jobs posted in the various threads, most of which are out of my budget and excess to my needs. At the moment I have just a finished troweled floor with tire tracks from the construction.

My primary interest is in sealing the floor against petroleum & solvents. Something most sealers don't seem to be capable of. Secondly, I've considered applying a sodium silicate product to harden the surface & reduce chipping issues prior to sealing it.

I'd like to either clean the tire tracks from the concrete which apparently isn't easy to do or use an opaque product to hide them.
I'm in FL so no issues with freezing.

What I'm looking for is the best product compromise that is:

Economical
Easy to prep for & apply
Resists petroleum & related solvents.
Relatively durable in the presence of heavy machinery. Takes some abuse from things like benches dragging and wheeled tool carts.
Light in color like a gray.

I've got to DIY to save costs where I can. I appreciate all hints, tips etc.

I would suggest going with 2-5 Gallons of the Rust Bullet and doing an installation to industrial specs. You would do a 4 coat system which would take two days. All four coats would be the gray.

We could ship that with the RB14 Promo code for just over $1200. I would also suggest a gallon of their solvent. You will not need any MetalBlast as you stated this is new concrete and presumably does not have oil stains.

Have a look at the case studies here: http://www.garageflooringllc.com/rust-bullet-concrete/

 

[CS223]

That certainly is within the budget and sounds like it meets all my criteria. Two questions, would it be best to skip the sodium silicate treatment, it's my understanding that it would close up the pores. Secondly, I'm filling the expansion joints with backer rod and will using a Sikaflex urethane product to fill them. Would it be best to do this before or after applying RB? The concrete is 7 months aged.

 

[mnavillus]

How do you plan on accomplishing your surface preparations?

what process?

 

[CS223]

How do you plan on accomplishing your surface preparations?

what process?

That's something that is indeterminate at the moment. I am working on getting electrical installed, some interior framing & finishing and working 10-12 hour days which often include at least one day of the weekend. Every moment counts. I have a pressure washer with a Whirl-A-Way and a 13" floor polisher. I'd like to avoid any use of acids so that I don't risk corrosion issues with the building. The minimal prep that I can get away with on virgin concrete.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

CS223:
New concrete? Diamond grind that floor for good penetration or risk a delamination.

Placing a silicate under a coating is not a requirement or really recommended as the coating becomes your sacrificial layer.

Solvents? Look at Polyaspartic for a very tough, chemical resistant coating. Two sealer coats put down day one, walking, skipping and parking on it Day2. 12 colors to choose from.

2nd choice would be an ALIPHATIC urethane. Great UV stability and if pigmented, color stability. Aromatic urethanes tend to yellow/fade and do not bond as well as aliphatic urethane.

 

[Garage Flooring]

That's something that is indeterminate at the moment. I am working on getting electrical installed, some interior framing & finishing and working 10-12 hour days which often include at least one day of the weekend. Every moment counts. I have a pressure washer with a Whirl-A-Way and a 13" floor polisher. I'd like to avoid any use of acids so that I don't risk corrosion issues with the building. The minimal prep that I can get away with on virgin concrete.

So long as no sealer is applied, you can apply RB directly over the existing floor. Your just need to get it clean and dust free.

Also Sikaflex has several products in that market, which one are you looking to use. I presume the reason for filling the control joints is so you can have the appearance if a single, seamless floor so we should coordinate and make sure your floor comes out perfect.

 

[CS223]

So long as no sealer is applied, you can apply RB directly over the existing floor. Your just need to get it clean and dust free.

Also Sikaflex has several products in that market, which one are you looking to use. I presume the reason for filling the control joints is so you can have the appearance if a single, seamless floor so we should coordinate and make sure your floor comes out perfect.

I'm using the Sikaflex Self Leveling product for expansion joints. It's a polyurethane product. It's not so much for looks, it's to keep debris, liquids from accumulating in the joints and to keep insects out.

Prep & cleaning of dust won't be a problem, I have to vacuum & mop the place anyway since it hasn't been done since the building was completed. At minimum, I'll probably use a scotchbrite type pad on a 13" buffer machine to scrub it to loosen any concrete residue. I may have to paint the floor in two sections depending on whether I can move some of the stuff that's already inside.

Don't get me wrong, I want the floor to look good, uniform, but by no means am I after the classic car showroom quality that I see in the many fine examples here. I'd love to do the flakes but that would make it difficult for me to find small parts, hardware, pins, clips etc. that will get dropped. I'm after a commercial/industrial working shop floor.

I'm more concerned about being able to keep the floor clean from spills and being able to sweep it cleanly. Too slick & glossy and it will be a trip hazard, especially with the occasional machine coolant spills. If there were a basic penetrating sealer that was unaffected by petroleum based chemicals, I would have gone that route and called it good. I want it to hold up to average shop traffic, tool carts, hand truck, foot traffic. There won't be much vehicle traffic on it.

I will be setting ceramic tile or travertine in the area I have allocated to the office, a little more than 200 sq/ft. Around 600 sq/ft will be storage, typical barn contents.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I'm using the Sikaflex Self Leveling product for expansion joints. It's a polyurethane product. It's not so much for looks, it's to keep debris, liquids from accumulating in the joints and to keep insects out.

Prep & cleaning of dust won't be a problem, I have to vacuum & mop the place anyway since it hasn't been done since the building was completed. At minimum, I'll probably use a scotchbrite type pad on a 13" buffer machine to scrub it to loosen any concrete residue. I may have to paint the floor in two sections depending on whether I can move some of the stuff that's already inside.

Don't get me wrong, I want the floor to look good, uniform, but by no means am I after the classic car showroom quality that I see in the many fine examples here. I'd love to do the flakes but that would make it difficult for me to find small parts, hardware, pins, clips etc. that will get dropped. I'm after a commercial/industrial working shop floor.

I'm more concerned about being able to keep the floor clean from spills and being able to sweep it cleanly. Too slick & glossy and it will be a trip hazard, especially with the occasional machine coolant spills. If there were a basic penetrating sealer that was unaffected by petroleum based chemicals, I would have gone that route and called it good. I want it to hold up to average shop traffic, tool carts, hand truck, foot traffic. There won't be much vehicle traffic on it.

I will be setting ceramic tile or travertine in the area I have allocated to the office, a little more than 200 sq/ft. Around 600 sq/ft will be storage, typical barn contents.

If you are using a paintable joint filler you can do that first. I think you are right on the money with how you want to go about this. A good, impermiable coating that is easy to clean. If you look at some of the case studies durability is not a concern.

 

[CS223]

The is just the Standard RB product correct? If so it looks like I can order 1/4 pint from the website as a sample. I can try it in an area where I'll have a wall going up to get an idea. Or maybe I'll order a bit more, worst case I have some rusty corral panels that could benefit from a coat of paint.

 

[Garage Flooring]

The is just the Standard RB product correct? If so it looks like I can order 1/4 pint from the website as a sample. I can try it in an area where I'll have a wall going up to get an idea. Or maybe I'll order a bit more, worst case I have some rusty corral panels that could benefit from a coat of paint.

Order a quart from mine, we will ship it free and use the RB14 discount code.

Also I have free coated samples I can send out, but have you seen the two threads where customers posted their pics?

 

[CS223]

Order a quart from mine, we will ship it free and use the RB14 discount code.

Also I have free coated samples I can send out, but have you seen the two threads where customers posted their pics?

I ordered a qt. I'll give it a test run. I've seen the threads & have been reading all I can about the product and urethanes in general. Interestingly my local paint supplier recommended Pitthane which is a 2 part coating from PPG but when I called PPG directly to discuss the the data sheet vs. what my supplier was telling me, PPG did not recommend their product on bare concrete. My experience with urethane based products in general; adhesives, sealants is that they have a a tenacious bond. Epoxies are beautiful & durable when applied properly but they seem to be brittle and no doubt a pain to repair a damaged area. If I drag the tractor forks and gouge a spot, it's good to know that I can get a 1/2 pint of product for touch up. I'd love to do something pretty but it isn't practical and I've got to stick with the reality. .

 

[davidlee]

Not to hijack the this thread but the question was not answered, can Rust Bullet be applied over Sikaflex self leveling compound. I am looking to do my floor and was interested. I need to fill a cold joint/ crack.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I ordered a qt. I'll give it a test run. I've seen the threads & have been reading all I can about the product and urethanes in general. Interestingly my local paint supplier recommended Pitthane which is a 2 part coating from PPG but when I called PPG directly to discuss the the data sheet vs. what my supplier was telling me, PPG did not recommend their product on bare concrete. My experience with urethane based products in general; adhesives, sealants is that they have a a tenacious bond. Epoxies are beautiful & durable when applied properly but they seem to be brittle and no doubt a pain to repair a damaged area. If I drag the tractor forks and gouge a spot, it's good to know that I can get a 1/2 pint of product for touch up. I'd love to do something pretty but it isn't practical and I've got to stick with the reality. .

We got the order and it is shipping FedEx ground today.

Not to hijack the this thread but the question was not answered, can Rust Bullet be applied over Sikaflex self leveling compound. I am looking to do my floor and was interested. I need to fill a cold joint/ crack.

Rust Bullet can be applied over printable control joint fillers and crack repair products including the Sikaflex that I have seen BUT they do have a ton of products so make sure you are looking at one that can be painted.

Also we do offer control joint filler.

 

[CS223]

The Sikaflex urethane product I bought comes in a caulk tube and it's pretty darn rigid when it's cured. Took a bit of effort to skim a few high spots with a razor. I'm not overly concerned about it myself, I'm fine with it if the joints show.

On another note, what product do you have/can recommend for filling minor chips & gouges in the concrete? They are too shallow for a concrete patch type product but too deep I suspect for the RB, probably 1/8" max but closer to 1/16" I have a few places where the boom lift scraped.

 

[Garage Flooring]

The Sikaflex urethane product I bought comes in a caulk tube and it's pretty darn rigid when it's cured. Took a bit of effort to skim a few high spots with a razor. I'm not overly concerned about it myself, I'm fine with it if the joints show.

On another note, what product do you have/can recommend for filling minor chips & gouges in the concrete? They are too shallow for a concrete patch type product but too deep I suspect for the RB, probably 1/8" max but closer to 1/16" I have a few places where the boom lift scraped.

Just use our epoxy patch http://www.garageflooringllc.com/a-la-carte-coatings-for-garage/ TL818

 

[Will S.]

Justin, I have similar requirements as CS223, but my 1750 sf shop is nearly 5 years old, and does have some small stains from oil, rust, and an "etched" area about a foot in dia, where a battery boiled over onto the floor. It is a power-trowelled smooth finish of fiberglass-reinforced 4000 psi concrete.

Would I need to do any special prep (other than scrubbing and pressure washing)? I am very interested in doing this floor as soon as the weather breaks in another month or so.

 

[Garage Flooring]

The Sikaflex urethane product I bought comes in a caulk tube and it's pretty darn rigid when it's cured. Took a bit of effort to skim a few high spots with a razor. I'm not overly concerned about it myself, I'm fine with it if the joints show.

On another note, what product do you have/can recommend for filling minor chips & gouges in the concrete? They are too shallow for a concrete patch type product but too deep I suspect for the RB, probably 1/8" max but closer to 1/16" I have a few places where the boom lift scraped.

Yes, just use our patch material on any of our epoxy pages. It will do that perfectly.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Justin, I have similar requirements as CS223, but my 1750 sf shop is nearly 5 years old, and does have some small stains from oil, rust, and an "etched" area about a foot in dia, where a battery boiled over onto the floor. It is a power-trowelled smooth finish of fiberglass-reinforced 4000 psi concrete.

Would I need to do any special prep (other than scrubbing and pressure washing)? I am very interested in doing this floor as soon as the weather breaks in another month or so.

I would like to see a pic of the current floor but, generally speaking you would want to rinse the stained areas with Metal Blast first and depending on how bad that one area is you might want to patch it or just understand it may telegraph through and you might need to put an extra coat in that spot.

 

[Will S.]

Thanks Justin. I have not been able to get out there and get pics yet, but that should change by tomorrow or Thursday.

 

[CS223]

Been playing with the chip sample I received with my order. Interesting stuff, so far I've dropped 5/8" steel ball bearings on it from 6', sanded it, took a carbide scribe to it and hit it with a couple of different solvents and examined it it under 10X magnification. Tried picking at the edge and various areas I gouged trying to lift or chip it with my thumbnail. You can see the heavy concentration of aluminum powder in it under 10X magnification. Don't know that it matters as much for the floor application as it would on rusty metal. So far I like what I'm seeing. I think the 10mil dft that's on the sample chip (which looks like 3 coats under magnification where I sanded thru) would be a bit much for a smooth finish floor but probably perfect for a floor that is a bit rougher or has some damage, cracks etc.. The recommended 6 mil/2 coats sounds about right for my application. There's a hole in the metal chip that has the info label stuck over it on the bare side and the layer of RB on the opposite side. I've poked & flexed the label and the RB does flex without cracking or peeling up.

Best I can tell the steel used for the chip sample is just plain untouched CRS. If it bonds that tight to metal that hasn't been abrasive blasted, there's no reason I can see that it wouldn't bond to clean concrete. When I get done with the chip, I think I'll toss it in my abrasive deburring machine for a couple of hours to see how it fairs. Going to try to find the time this week to clean a spot on the floor and put down a test coat.

It would be interesting to see how it holds up to office chairs rolling over it. The production department where my wife works has had durability issues with their epoxy floor holding up where the chairs roll. The one plus I see in a case like that, is a new coat of RB could be put down with just some sanding prep. Which, when I hit the chip with some 150 grit open garnet, I found that it sands easily. I was expecting it to be gummier and plug up the paper.

Pretty interesting stuff, I'll post more observations as I make them.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Been playing with the chip sample I received with my order. Interesting stuff, so far I've dropped 5/8" steel ball bearings on it from 6', sanded it, took a carbide scribe to it and hit it with a couple of different solvents and examined it it under 10X magnification. Tried picking at the edge and various areas I gouged trying to lift or chip it with my thumbnail. You can see the heavy concentration of aluminum powder in it under 10X magnification. Don't know that it matters as much for the floor application as it would on rusty metal. So far I like what I'm seeing. I think the 10mil dft that's on the sample chip (which looks like 3 coats under magnification where I sanded thru) would be a bit much for a smooth finish floor but probably perfect for a floor that is a bit rougher or has some damage, cracks etc.. The recommended 6 mil/2 coats sounds about right for my application. There's a hole in the metal chip that has the info label stuck over it on the bare side and the layer of RB on the opposite side. I've poked & flexed the label and the RB does flex without cracking or peeling up.

Best I can tell the steel used for the chip sample is just plain untouched CRS. If it bonds that tight to metal that hasn't been abrasive blasted, there's no reason I can see that it wouldn't bond to clean concrete. When I get done with the chip, I think I'll toss it in my abrasive deburring machine for a couple of hours to see how it fairs. Going to try to find the time this week to clean a spot on the floor and put down a test coat.

It would be interesting to see how it holds up to office chairs rolling over it. The production department where my wife works has had durability issues with their epoxy floor holding up where the chairs roll. The one plus I see in a case like that, is a new coat of RB could be put down with just some sanding prep. Which, when I hit the chip with some 150 grit open garnet, I found that it sands easily. I was expecting it to be gummier and plug up the paper.

Pretty interesting stuff, I'll post more observations as I make them.

Sounds like some of the ASTM testing they have The literally drop balls on it, score it, etc http://www.garageflooringllc.com/category/rust-bullet-testing/

 

[rs4-380]

Wow just ran into this, being using rust bullet on cars for years but never thought about putting it on the floor.

Justin do you sell a unique formulation or is it just regular rust bullet?

 

[Garage Flooring]

Wow just ran into this, being using rust bullet on cars for years but never thought about putting it on the floor.

Justin do you sell a unique formulation or is it just regular rust bullet?

You can't use the automotive formula as its thinner to run through spray equipment. The standard is fine. We have it in kits and also just sell the standard product.

We also worked with them to develop some different warranties and application instructions.

 

[rs4-380]

How does it hold up with edges? in my experience it tends to do better if it's fully encapsulating something. Any experience with say painting a 5x5 foot area in the middle of a bigger concrete floor?

 

[Garage Flooring]

Most of the projects we have out there are wall to wall. Some of my testing was done in small sections and there was no way any of the edges were coming up. Let me know if you want to try it and I will send you a quart of the gray.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[srt4geezer]

I have an area approx 330sqft (16.5'x20'). Home garage with a 2 post lift. Not entire 3.5 car garage, just car bay between stress cracks. 2 gallons (2 coats) looks like it should cover. Is it pretty stain resistant considering I would clean whatever drips same day, oil, trans/brake fluid? Resistant to tire marks/tracks?
My mothers house has the tan stuff from Lowes or something with the flakes in it. Stains like a mofo. Looks good from 20' away, but nasty once you stand on it.

 

[CS223]

In my limited testing on the the chip sample, I don't think staining will be an issue. So far the only thing that phases it is MEK and it just knocks the gloss off. I'll hit it with a Sharpie and some Dykem and see what that does.

ETA. So I scribbled on the chip with a Sharpie and daubed on some Starrett layout dye. Gave it all a chance to to dry. Then I took some CRC Non-Chlorinated parts cleaner, green can stuff which says it contains acetone, methanol heptane and toluene, sprayed it on a paper towel and wiped off the chip. Both the Sharpie and the layout dye wiped right off with no residual stain. No loss to the sheen on the chip. I can tell you from experience that the green can CRC stuff is the strongest solvent in canned parts cleaner that you can buy. I also tried Wherever Gold brake parts cleaner and it might as well be water. It doesn't say what it's composed of but it is flammable. CRC red can is almost the same as mineral spirits which is as mild as you can get in a solvent. I also tried a little 1,1,1, Trich. just because I have some, no effect.

The harshest stuff i use in the shop is a heat cured phenolic resin coating that uses MEK as a solvent. No solvent will touch it once it is cured. The CRC parts cleaner & MEK are both used to clean the spray gun because that is all that will cut the uncured product. I scrubbed the chip last night with a rag soaked in MEK, I was able to knock the sheen off the test area but it did not soften or begin to dissolve the RB like you would expect with ordinary paint. Worst case I'd get some resin coating dripped on the floor, and I now know I'll be able to wipe it up with no ill effect. I'm satisfied with the solvent resistance of the product.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I have an area approx 330sqft (16.5'x20'). Home garage with a 2 post lift. Not entire 3.5 car garage, just car bay between stress cracks. 2 gallons (2 coats) looks like it should cover. Is it pretty stain resistant considering I would clean whatever drips same day, oil, trans/brake fluid? Resistant to tire marks/tracks?
My mothers house has the tan stuff from Lowes or something with the flakes in it. Stains like a mofo. Looks good from 20' away, but nasty once you stand on it.

I will post some pics later. They have samples sitting in diesel fuel since 2007! They did find that after a couple weeks of being submerged in brake fluid it would delaminate. The coating was fully intact and not affected. Neither the brake fluid or the diesel were cloudy. More to come after coffee

 

[Garage Flooring]

Here is the picture of Rust Bullet that has been soaking in Bio Diesel since 2007. The rest of the story is here http://www.garageflooringllc.com/2015/03/06/diesel-fuel-and-brake-fluid-resistant-coatings/ and we will have a bunch more pictures there as soon as they finish uploading

Here are some other test results:

 

[srt4geezer]

So Justin, if I buy a couple gallons, you had mentioned a promo code earlier. Can I apply that as well? Currently out of work so I have the time, but hoarding every dime. lol

Also, I see color chips in your site pics. Is there a clear rolled over the chips?

You have probably answered these elsewhere so sorry if duplication.

 

[Garage Flooring]

So Justin, if I buy a couple gallons, you had mentioned a promo code earlier. Can I apply that as well? Currently out of work so I have the time, but hoarding every dime. lol

Also, I see color chips in your site pics. Is there a clear rolled over the chips?

You have probably answered these elsewhere so sorry if duplication.

People do flakes without clear... I don't get why they do it. The pictures from customers are with clear on top. Most of the Rust Bullet sales we do do not have flake at all, but all the GJ ones have flakes it seems

YES. By all means, use the promo code. If you don't have it, send me a PM.