Looking for a Welder

[ToolCrazyDude]

Hi Guys,

Last year I bought my first welder, a used Miller 211 mig welder, and the bug has bit me. I made a lot of cool stuff and I'm looking to increase my capabilities. Initially, I didn't think that I'd mess much with heavier steel (1/4" and 3/8" even cheating a bit with 1/2") but I'm actually working with it a lot more often than I thought (especially now that i have 220v).

As such, I've been looking for a stick welder to help me work with thicker materials but I keep seeing stick/tig combo machines popping up. I don't work with aluminum much right now, but I bet at some point in the future I'll want to tig thin aluminum. Any advice on if I should get a stick welder now and tig later? Or should I look for a multi-process machine? My budget would be around $1k - $1,500 but I'm willing to wait and save for what makes the most sense. I'd prefer light industrial quality (similar to miller 211 type machine) so feel free to recommend machines! I'm not afraid of used either since my miller 211 transformer was bought used and has performed well.

Thanks in advance!

 

[dr_clyde]

Almost any TIG welder will stick weld. Its basically the same, electrically speaking.

If you are wanting to do aluminum, you'll want an AC/DC machine. I would want a 200 amp minimum machine if aluminum is in your future. Watercooled torch is nice, but not required. You'll want a 50 amp circuit for a bigger transformer machine too.

If you have the space, a Miller Syncrowave 250 would outlive you and be more welder that you could want for a hobby machine. They are CHEAP too. I've actually given these machines away. Same goes for Lincoln Square Wave TIG machines. Heavy, reliable tanks that no one seems to want anymore because of their size. I love my Syncrowave 350, its got nuts when it counts.

If you want an inverter, a Lincoln SW TIG 200 is a fine machine, as well as offerings from HTP and Miller. My Miller Dynasty 200 is the cats meow for 200 amp inverters, but is a few grand more than a typical hobby budget.

 

[ToolCrazyDude]

Thanks for the advice. It seems like it makes sense to with a tig/stick machine. Looking forward to other suggestions.

 

[kazlx]

I paid less than that for my Syncrowave 250 ready to roll and it would do anything you need it to. I would think any 200ish amp class tig would easily fit the bill and they aren't all that hard to find used if you are diligent. I'm going to second everything Dr Clyde just stated. Sync 250 or equivalent Lincoln would easily tick all your boxes. I think I paid $1200 with a bottle and everything ready to roll and water cooled. I recently put a new CK torch with super flex hoses. I think about 'upgrading' to an inverter just for space, but it literally does everything I need it to and never complains.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

I bought one like this one, https://www.esabna.com/us/en/produc...ent-cc/industrial-equipment/et-186i-ac-dc.cfm Except mine is blue instead of yellow and made by Hugong Electric instead of Shanghai Electric .

They run out of power on aluminum over 1/4" and don't go down low enough to weld beer cans. With stick, 180amp is easily enough to weld 1/8" 7018. Since the arc is programmable, it's sweet.

 

[sberry]

If I wanted to stick might really look to see what the market was, if it was available a used dc buzzer.

 

[sberry]

Deal with the other stuff later, shop for an argon bottle along the way.

 

[86turbodsl]

Hard to go wrong with an old transformer miller or lincoln if you have the space. I love my syncrowave. Paid $100 for it.

I'd disagree with water cooled torch if you're looking at aluminum. My hand was scorching hot just welding 1/8" steel with an air torch after a while.

 

[dr_clyde]

Hard to go wrong with an old transformer miller or lincoln if you have the space. I love my syncrowave. Paid $100 for it.

I'd disagree with water cooled torch if you're looking at aluminum. My hand was scorching hot just welding 1/8" steel with an air torch after a while.

There are different sizes of torches. The bigger ones that are rated for the amps aren't too bad.

I do think a watercooler is a worthwhile investment if you're going to be using the machine a lot, but if its only occasionally it's not really worth the effort to maintain the reservoir and keep it from growing scum and yuck for once or twice a year use.

If you're gonna use the thing every week or so, then yeah, a watercooler is really nice. A used one rated for 200 amps will set you back 3-400 bucks and then the torch is another 150. Use the right coolant or you'll have a science experiment growing in the tank after a few weeks.

 

[matt_i]

Another +1 for the Sync 250

 

[lis2323]

I “prettied-up” this 351 Sync I bought a while back. $750Cdn and 20 minute drive from home. Real power suckers so they can be had relatively cheap.

 

[sberry]

That is spiffy.

 

[thejimmy]

I “prettied-up” this 351 Sync I bought a while back. $750Cdn and 20 minute drive from home. Real power suckers so they can be had relatively cheap.

Nice, brings back memories, but I didn't like the cooler, if I remember it seemed loud, but still you got a good deal

 

[ToolCrazyDude]

Thanks for the suggestions. Now im wishing I'd gone with heavier duty wiring for my miller 211 than 10 gauge 30amp breaker. Sounds like I'll need heavier duty if i step up to one of these stick/tig combos

 

[dr_clyde]

Thanks for the suggestions. Now im wishing I'd gone with heavier duty wiring for my miller 211 than 10 gauge 30amp breaker. Sounds like I'll need heavier duty if i step up to one of these stick/tig combos

Only if you get a transformer based machine. Inverters will run fine on your existing circuit.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

I went from a little century to a Miller 330A/BP. It's a big machine, but $500 gets you a lot of welder. Its a bit lacking on the feature side for tig, but very powerful for stick. It's nice to be able to burn 5 5/32 7018s in a row on some 3/4" plate and never have to worry about heat build up. I've also gotten acceptable results tigging with it, even on cast aluminum. I'm no where near qualified enough to speak on how it compares to modern units though.

Lots of options, but I'm firmly in the "big, old, cheap, high-duty-cycle welder" camp like the 250 Sync.

 

[sberry]

Yes, saw a 200 something, synch or multi, 16A at rated.

 

[zkling]

Prioritize the following; space, money, and product longevity.

 

[BD1]

You didn't say anything about duty cycle . We have a bunch of the Miller CST 280's stick machine. Great machine for sure any it'll will do almost anything. A dedicate stick machine gets my vote. You can adapt this to tig .

 

[Aaron_W]

Are you looking at Stick for the thickness or because you want to stick weld?

The Miller 252 MIG welder can single pass up to 1/2" steel. The MIG on my Miller 220 AC/DC multi-process is basically the same as the 211. I love my machine, but using the 252 in class made my 220 feel like a toy.

If you want a stick welder, for value it is hard to beat an old AC/DC Lincoln tombstone, or Miller Thunderbolt they are bullet proof and dirt cheap.

TIG is a lot more complex, so many more options to consider. Also much more expensive than MIG or stick. TIG is also really starting to take advantage of the modern inverter technology.
Looking at a transformer MIG or stick compared to inverter you are mostly looking at lower power requirements and less weight on the new inverter machines.

Inverter TIG welders on the other hand may offer features that are not even available on older transformer TIG machines.

 

[sberry]

The buzzers are good too. They really work well. As a going concern they are really 1/8 machines though which is fine. The new Hobart inverter stick is about 550 bucks but there is some incentive as it is fairly light and will run 5/32 lohy right along nice and toasty if a guy needed to. At rated output is 43A in, right around the same as a little ****** on 1/8. Could run 1/8 100%.
I am more inclined to do that than bigger rods. On equipment a big rod is fast and its all over but on a trailer have sat 1/8 and ran them for 2 1/2 hours a time. The modern auto hood is beautiful, don't even got to stop, whole handful at a time.

 

[sberry]

Some places are different, a good used buzzer brings decent money I hear in this area, some places real nice and real cheap. Some deals on lead. I like to reach out the door and across the place a little, some lead is handy.
I like stick for pit stops.

If you want a stick welder, for value it is hard to beat an old AC/DC Lincoln tombstone, or Miller Thunderbolt they are bullet proof and dirt cheap.

 

[sberry]

Inverter TIG welders on the other hand may offer features that are not even available on older transformer TIG machines.

The import has made them cheap. If a guy can weld a little with a 60 cycle machine he can feel like a super freekin hero with a Dynasty.
While the old ones are greedy a part timer doesn't have to leave it on and use it hundreds of hours a year. While they will run from 100A service they take it all.

 

[sberry]

To tell the truth if I was limited it would be the wire feed and a stick like the Maxstar. You can weld heavy with a feeder and its faster and neater but 120V field stick is way too cool.

 

[ToolCrazyDude]

I'm mainly looking to at a stick welder right now because I want to be able to weld thicker materials than my miller 211 can handle (thicker than 3/8" plate). Mainly 1/2" but might be a little thicker.

The question has been does it make sense to shell out the bigger bucks for stick/tig combo now or just buy a cheap stick machine and get the tig later?

 

[sberry]

Right now you want to stick, the used market is good for you, used combo will likely get cheaper and cheaper. Face it when it comes, always can re sell something.

 

[lis2323]

To tell the truth if I was limited it would be the wire feed and a stick like the Maxstar. You can weld heavy with a feeder and its faster and neater but 120V field stick is way too cool.

I’m with sberry on this. I really like the Maxstar 150STL I got used off eBay. Apparently the Hobart equivalents are arguably better and cheaper though.

I could easily get by with it and my 210 class Mig.

 

[lis2323]

You could buy a GOOD older ****** stick machine today and easily resell for the same amount (higher if you originally got a deal) when you are ready to part with funds for an inverter.

Something like my Lincoln Idealarc would be a good choice.

 

[ToolCrazyDude]

Ok, thanks for the advice! Used stick welder it is. Now I just need to keep an eye out.

 

[lis2323]

Keep us updated. [emoji106]

 

[sberry]

A DC version. To tell the truth a uded dc buzzer or a Everlasting 150 dvi type. Under 300$ and runs from 120v also. 3 electrodes, 1/8 6011, 3/32 7018 and 1/8 7018 if you have 240v.

 

[sberry]

I’m with sberry on this. I really like the Maxstar 150STL I got used off eBay. Apparently the Hobart equivalents are arguably better and cheaper though.

I could easily get by with it and my 210 class Mig.

This is really true. You got some beautiful equipment but now that your stuff is in good shape, most of it likely built how much real heavy work do you do and how much faster would it all be than with a 1/8 lo hy? I used my 250 mig about once in the last year on a project I made as I lost the original and finally found it shortly after. I could have done part of it 200 mig and finished stick if I had to,,,, should have took another look in storage and found the thing. The real repair I did to the machine I was working on did with a little feeder.

 

[sberry]

A guy probably has a couple things in mind when he buys a machine, they run out in hobby maint and the stuff can sit good long time sometimes. Cant remember if I welded anything last week?

 

[lis2323]

This is really true. You got some beautiful equipment but now that your stuff is in good shape, most of it likely built how much real heavy work do you do and how much faster would it all be than with a 1/8 lo hy? I used my 250 mig about once in the last year on a project I made as I lost the original and finally found it shortly after. I could have done part of it 200 mig and finished stick if I had to,,,, should have took another look in storage and found the thing. The real repair I did to the machine I was working on did with a little feeder.

I have better gear now than all the years I farmed.

I got by with a buzz box then and I could do so now, but I would prefer if I could only have one economical welder today (in retirement) that it would an inverter stick or minimum 200 class mig.

 

[lis2323]

Fabrication is my therapy. Buying a few welders is WAAAY cheaper than visiting a shrink. Pus you have resale value.

Good Luck with your “counselling”. [emoji41]

BTW. For those of you with significant others you can explain to them welding machines keep you happy and is significantly cheaper than couples counselling. Tell ‘em Lis said so.

 

[BD1]

Get a AC/DC machine and adapt to tig. We do it all the time on jobsites. You can't use a foot pedal if that's a issue. We use the Miller CST 280's which will give you all the amps you need.

 

[lis2323]

Get a AC/DC machine and adapt to tig. We do it all the time on jobsites. You can't use a foot pedal if that's a issue. We use the Miller CST 280's which will give you all the amps you need.

I would like to try a Miller CST 280. I have never seen one come up for sale locally though.

 

[sberry]

I have better gear now than all the years I farmed.

I got by with a buzz box then and I could do so now, but I would prefer if I could only have one economical welder today (in retirement) that it would an inverter stick or minimum 200 class mig.

I had better than a buzzer but I am done collecting welders and wouldn't miss some if I got rid of them tomorrow. Only pieces I get is if it makes for return, I dont want or need more except for a couple new pair of dykes. I might get another holes for cement block, just enough for 2 inch pipe coupling.