Looking at a couple of used air compressors and not being very knowledgeable on the subject thought I’d ask for some assistance! Price is very close for both of these. Assuming they both operate as they should, what’s the better choice? Thanks!
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Looking for Advice on buying used Air Compressor
- Thread starter Dberglind
- Start date
my comment is, I prefer vertical tanks over horizontal tanks
Snapped-off
Well-known member
Looks like they've got the same pump. Blue one looks newer and I'd probably go with that one since it's a vertical.
Do they run and pump?
Do they run and pump?
Both say they run as they should. I would prefer vertical as well all other things being equal. ThanksLooks like they've got the same pump. Blue one looks newer and I'd probably go with that one since it's a vertical.
Do they run and pump?
alwaysFlOoReD
Well-known member
Weird they have the same pump but different scfm...
Personally i would go with bigger scfm numbers but also want to know why the difference. Pulley size?
Personally i would go with bigger scfm numbers but also want to know why the difference. Pulley size?
micromind
Well-known member
While the vertical one takes up less space, when you tip it to move it, the top gets very heavy.
johnre
Well-known member
The horizontal one that says "Professional" on it may have been designed for a higher operating duty cycle, if that matters to you. Take a look at the motor nameplates.
seber
Well-known member
I'm pretty sure the "professional" refers to the cast iron pump. The higher rating on one over the other just means they got more confident about lying.The horizontal one that says "Professional" on it may have been designed for a higher operating duty cycle, if that matters to you. Take a look at the motor nameplates.
micromind
Well-known member
The horizontal one that says "Professional" on it may have been designed for a higher operating duty cycle, if that matters to you. Take a look at the motor nameplates.
Lol......does this mean the other one is an amateur?
Seriously, the word 'professional' often means that the price is higher and not much else. Or it can mean that it has added features that allow it to be run harder than the others.
If they both work just as well get whatever one looks to be in the best shape.
Be careful of prices. Around here it seems with conpressors that size you can get new for not much more then people want for used ones and they've usually been over used and abused.
Be careful of prices. Around here it seems with conpressors that size you can get new for not much more then people want for used ones and they've usually been over used and abused.
My compressor is a similar Campbell Hausfeld belt drive compressor. Overall those appear to be very similar units other than the tanks. I agree with others that I would prefer the vertical tank. Based on the SNs I'm guessing the black one was made in 96 and the blue in 2000. I don't like that the blue one appears to have no air filter.
My biggest concern with these is if the tanks are sound. My compressor was originally a vertical 20 gallon unit. It was purchased by my employer around 2003. It wasn't used much when I got it in 2008. Due to a lack of space I loaned the compressor out to several people until about 2017. I don't think it was used much in that time but I don't think it was drained much either. The tank sprang a pinhole leak in 2019. My point? Those tanks are old. If they were drained regularly they are fine. However, if they weren't then you run the risk of a pin hole leak which is the end of the tank. Note: If you see any "repairs" on the bottom of the tank do not use it! Some people think a little hole is no big deal and weld it up. That hole is the indicator that the tank has rusted out. The idea is the rust forms a pinhole before it ruptures. That's why they should never be repaired (unless you know what you are doing... I certainly wouldn't).
Along those lines, run the compressor then see if you can open the drain valve. The stock drain valve on mine sucked and was hard to open. I suspect that was at least partly to blame for people not draining it. If you can't open the drain then it's probably safe to assume they couldn't either and thus didn't "drain daily after use". I added a Kobalt drain on a 1' extension hose. It makes it really easy to drain the water as the valve extends past the bottom of the tank.
Two upsides to that compressor design: 1. The parts are very common so you can fix things if they go wrong. 2. With the current CH air filter (the one that looks like the air cleaner off an old V8) + 1.5' of vinyl tubing the compressor's noise level is quite reasonable. The filter+hose (yes the hose makes a difference) cut about 8db off the sound level of my compressor vs my older "open" filter setup.
My biggest concern with these is if the tanks are sound. My compressor was originally a vertical 20 gallon unit. It was purchased by my employer around 2003. It wasn't used much when I got it in 2008. Due to a lack of space I loaned the compressor out to several people until about 2017. I don't think it was used much in that time but I don't think it was drained much either. The tank sprang a pinhole leak in 2019. My point? Those tanks are old. If they were drained regularly they are fine. However, if they weren't then you run the risk of a pin hole leak which is the end of the tank. Note: If you see any "repairs" on the bottom of the tank do not use it! Some people think a little hole is no big deal and weld it up. That hole is the indicator that the tank has rusted out. The idea is the rust forms a pinhole before it ruptures. That's why they should never be repaired (unless you know what you are doing... I certainly wouldn't).
Along those lines, run the compressor then see if you can open the drain valve. The stock drain valve on mine sucked and was hard to open. I suspect that was at least partly to blame for people not draining it. If you can't open the drain then it's probably safe to assume they couldn't either and thus didn't "drain daily after use". I added a Kobalt drain on a 1' extension hose. It makes it really easy to drain the water as the valve extends past the bottom of the tank.
Two upsides to that compressor design: 1. The parts are very common so you can fix things if they go wrong. 2. With the current CH air filter (the one that looks like the air cleaner off an old V8) + 1.5' of vinyl tubing the compressor's noise level is quite reasonable. The filter+hose (yes the hose makes a difference) cut about 8db off the sound level of my compressor vs my older "open" filter setup.
Thanks, great info.My compressor is a similar Campbell Hausfeld belt drive compressor. Overall those appear to be very similar units other than the tanks. I agree with others that I would prefer the vertical tank. Based on the SNs I'm guessing the black one was made in 96 and the blue in 2000. I don't like that the blue one appears to have no air filter.
My biggest concern with these is if the tanks are sound. My compressor was originally a vertical 20 gallon unit. It was purchased by my employer around 2003. It wasn't used much when I got it in 2008. Due to a lack of space I loaned the compressor out to several people until about 2017. I don't think it was used much in that time but I don't think it was drained much either. The tank sprang a pinhole leak in 2019. My point? Those tanks are old. If they were drained regularly they are fine. However, if they weren't then you run the risk of a pin hole leak which is the end of the tank. Note: If you see any "repairs" on the bottom of the tank do not use it! Some people think a little hole is no big deal and weld it up. That hole is the indicator that the tank has rusted out. The idea is the rust forms a pinhole before it ruptures. That's why they should never be repaired (unless you know what you are doing... I certainly wouldn't).
Along those lines, run the compressor then see if you can open the drain valve. The stock drain valve on mine sucked and was hard to open. I suspect that was at least partly to blame for people not draining it. If you can't open the drain then it's probably safe to assume they couldn't either and thus didn't "drain daily after use". I added a Kobalt drain on a 1' extension hose. It makes it really easy to drain the water as the valve extends past the bottom of the tank.
Two upsides to that compressor design: 1. The parts are very common so you can fix things if they go wrong. 2. With the current CH air filter (the one that looks like the air cleaner off an old V8) + 1.5' of vinyl tubing the compressor's noise level is quite reasonable. The filter+hose (yes the hose makes a difference) cut about 8db off the sound level of my compressor vs my older "open" filter setup.
jonesg
Well-known member
Lol......does this mean the other one is an amateur?
Seriously, the word 'professional' often means that the price is higher and not much else. Or it can mean that it has added features that allow it to be run harder than the others.
if the plate declares professional that means they can't deny warranty work by claiming its not meant for professional use,
these being second hand they're probably out of warranty anyway.
yeh, the pro version should be able to take more abuse.
the vertical tank is a pain to reach the drain.
johnre
Well-known member
It often means that the motor is not capable of a very high duty cycle, and will thermally overload if you attempt to use it continuously. That's why they're equipped with that red button you see on the side; if it trips out you wait five minutes for the motor to cool off a bit, push the button, and continue.......does this mean the other one is an amateur?
And yes, the "professional" one also has such a button on it. Most all of them do. All I'm saying is that they may be more capable regarding duty cycle and thermal rise.
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